First I would like to thank these people that helped me through it all to make it to this point.
Jerome Foster- you was there every step of the way from day one bro with advice/motivation/knowledge/manhours lol
Janhoi - another one that has been there from the start that all nighter with the welder was memorable.
Gino @ Evolution Racing Engines - machining/building/guidance/knowledge - http://www.evolutionracingengines.com/
Paul (need_a_vr6) @ KPTuned - for 24/7 tech-support and many more. http://kptuned.com/
Chris Palumbo (XXX007XXX) - for much help with the car, support!
Ed @ Force Fed Engineering - support, fabrication/welding! - http://www.fferacing.com/
Swoops - fabrication/welding
DJ - for his multiple Rx7 runs , suppport from day one as well.
Brian Daponte - his spare 24v for mockup of 02m mounts
Rhussjr & Issam Abed - assisting me with pistons.
Weasel410 - for designing of the pistons
Shawn Dezego - 02m Mounts
Mark @ Falcon Clutches - http://www.falconauto.com/
Here are the highlights: As the full build is on my page here where you will see the start up video at the end enjoy everyone!
oh my more motivation to do this. from the looks of it you swapped the whole FSI over, how much of a PITA is the wiring to adapt to a MK3? if you seen my thread im torn between a full 3.6 FSI swap or a 3.2 swap with performance goodies. looking good though, cant wait to hear it start up.:thumbup::thumbup:
the engine started a last month, just waiting on working out a few bugs. I need to build a downpipe and pull some codes off the car and take it from there! Thing sounds pretty mean but I still miss my old setup. well see. If I dont do anything from now to Christmas, Merry Christmas everyone!
where *dip was caused by hydraulic clutch problems NOT BY SPINNING TIRES.. my other runs didn't have that anomaly. But to anyone asking for a sheet here it is.
still have a few things to do before I try to shakedown pass.
battery has finally died, raise the car for slicks, route my intake for more air. Those are the only things I plan to do before maybe show n go.
did a few small repairs, slapped on my rear suspension. Made it to Waterfest 2015 with 2 issues. My dbw pedal keeps dying at random and my clutch was sinking to the floor at full throttle. Its been doing this since my ORIGINAL R32 swap. So i said let me give it a go. Found out that clutch slipped the whole way. But it was fun non the less. Ill try to fix those things before Show n Go Take care
Between waterfest and now ive been playing with clutches and flywheels. and added this accumulator as well. Waiting for a dry day to see if my clutch issue is solved. then off to the dyno..... stay tuned!
Ive asked everybody to tell me what it does no luck. I noticed this part comes on all factory 02M cars so I figured it contributed to my clutch pedal issues at WOT. After some research and talked with my brother who works on airplanes.
A hydraulic accumulator is a pressure storage reservoir in which a non-compressible hydraulic fluid is held under pressure by an external source. The external source can be a spring, a raised weight, or a compressed gas.
so basically it helps keep "positive" pressure in the line due to changes in the line. Hope these things solve my issue hope to find out this weekend or when ever the weather drys up.
clutch is still dropping to the floor it did it on every run. its very very strange. smh. Its an 02M issue. For some reason air is getting into my clutch hydraulic system.
The bad news is that on the last dyno my clutch line poped off the stock bleeder block. Something sounds hurt. And my clutch pedal still sinks to the floor on FULL THROTTLE smh.
I'm not sure this could create an issue only at WOT, but the stock plastic bleeder block has an incredibly small orifice in it, meant to dampen pedal feel for "normal" people. ECS sells one that is all aluminum and has a larger orifice for more flow; I put it on my 20th and noticed a more linear engagement and slightly heavier pedal. Here's a link.
Another inspirational thread. I need to do this to my mk2. It already has a 12v but like youve said im not interested in turboing it. Im pretty convinced it would end up costing somewhere near the same to make 12v go over 200whp as it would to swap in a 3.6. I could be totally wrong though.
Just a block and a head is around $3k for a low mileage one. Lots have damage to the intake manifold and hpfp assemblies if in a front ender. You will also need all the wiring, mk5 r32 downpipes, pedal, immo and abs deletes in the ecu... probably more I am forgetting.
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