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66K views 934 replies 80 participants last post by  LT1M21Stingray 
#1 · (Edited)
TO DO LIST:


  • [*] New Starter install
    [*] Repair rear seat-heater plug
    [*] Upholster bottom of seats
    [*] Re-upholster wheel well to black
    [*] Undo the modded cluster
    [*] install undertray
    [*] Install new air box
    [*] Determine what the random wire is in the door

    [*]Metal diverter valve (PSH PSH PSHHHHH)
  • right hatch light is out
  • windshield wiper hoses+wiring
    [*]mfts sensor plug wiring
    [*]fuel system clean+flush
    [*]only one speaker functions (front passenger)
    [*]034 Fuel battery relay install
    [*]wheel well repair + install
    [*]sound deadening in rear (wheel well and floor)
  • stromung exhaust
  • complete bushing replacement on everything
  • ceramic+powder coating of turbo+downpipe
  • wiring cleanup + heat shielding
  • wheels (ENKEI RPF1 looks like it is the ticket)
  • Possibly an IR to RF conversion
    [*]Clean and repaint intercooler (not black enough)
  • patch hole in passenger side fender -- possibly find replacements
  • find and bolt on an injector cover
    [*]relocate/shield the LS2 coils
  • find a rubber boot for hatch wiring
    [*]fix all temperature/pressure gauges
    [*]replace clock with boost gauge (in cluster) - booooo this sucks
    [*]re-mount ECU (it's not bolted in)
  • Windshield replacement
  • register the car
  • drive car


So I am finally delving into the project car realm. I'm not too scared of things breaking, more concerned with buying a 1995 Audi in general. SoldOverSticker was a complete gentleman and went and looked at the car for me and I decided to pull the trigger. I know 2Bennet is the go-to for parts for these things, and the guy I am buying it from is heavily involved in the California racing scene so it's got all kinds of goodies coming with it.

Any of you ever own a URS6/4? Teach me about them. Enjoy the ride.




 
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#127 ·
As expected, MFTS was fubar.





More wack ass splices.


Apparently very common, actually.



Mad corrosion


Will need some more of these.


I also need a 30mm or 31mm socket as the imperial sockets I have are one size too small and one size too large for the MFTS fitting, lol.


This article is incredible and has walked me through diagnosing this: https://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/22584.phtml


It is incredible hard to get to, as the MFTS it is under the intake manifold. I almost want to just replace all the sensors while I am down there, but meh, we'll do one at a time for now.



I also found out that the oil pressure sender is not hooked up at all. Fantastich!

Also, I drained out all the coolant and ran a few 10 gallons of water through it and pressurized the system with an air hose. I am pretty sure there was probably a blockage in there or something based on how long it sat.


The oil drain is a fumoto drain plug, which everyone must try. It's so fantastic.
 
#129 ·
Awesome car man! I've always wanted an avant. Currently have a 93 S4 which has a similar setup to yours (3071r, big brakes, coilovers, ls2 coilpacks, etc.)

I am currently changing mine up and kinda going overboard on a few things. Rewired the entire thing & added an ATL fuel cell, MaxxECU, bucket seats...never ending project.

Anyways, keep it up! They are really fun cars when sorted out. Chasing misfires is a pretty regular occurrence. Make sure all the coils/sparkplugs are good, check for boost leaks, etc. Also voltage regulator on the alt.
 
#131 ·
Would love to see some pics of yours!

I am going for more of a comfortable cruiser/weekend car. Funnily enough, I originally purchased this as a daily driver for winter. What was I thinking?

---

I just replaced the sparkplugs, but it probably should get some new plug wires. Since you have the LS2 coils, would you mind confirming the plug order for me? I am pretty sure there will be a boost leak or two, but the biggest issue right now is probably the air box that is missing two retaining clips, so it is open on one side.

What do you mean about the voltage regulator? Common to go bad? I've noticed the electrical system on this thing is fantastic, despite all the **** that has been wired/spliced into it in the past. I left the doors open for 2 weeks and the car started right up!
 
#133 · (Edited)
I had a bunch of trouble like that with the MFTS in my 2B 200 20V wagon. After sorting out all the electrics I think I realized there was some flaw in the intake manifold surface preventing the sensor from sealing correctly, so who knows how long the car had been dripping coolant down into the electrical connector (and boot) before I'd owned it. What a pain that was.
 
#138 ·
UPDATE:

Few things. First, the boring stuff

Some fiberglass sleeving came in so I can fix up the wiring semi-properly. It is going to take some trial and error to get it right, but there seems like a LOT that can go wrong in my particular engine bay due to heating. I also plan on getting a heat shielding fabbed up at some point for the coils as they're right above the turbo downpipe.

Apikol urethane snub mount came in, so at some point before driving the car I'll get that installed. The other two motor mounts are 034 rubber mounts which saves me a lot of time and money... now I just need to replace the other 500 mounts and bushings in the car, but haven't found a company that I like yet producing rubber mounts. Probably just have to go OEM.

Still waiting on some repair wire as well as the MFTS sensor plug so I can fix up that mess. I also found out that the oil gauge temp sensor that I thought was unplugged may just be a holdover from a different model (URS4). No wires can go to it and there's another sensor to the left of it... I need to do some advanced digging on this...




You can see the two prongs unplugged there.

I guess this model only has a "dummy light" for oil temp, but I definitely have an oil temp gauge, so not sure what the deal is with it not reading.

---

Decided to get the coil plug cover done-ish. I grinded it using some wire wheels and sanding discs. Turned out okay-ish but obviously was just a very quick job to make it not totally scaley. I was worried that it wasn't going to fit but it turns out it fits just fine. I need to get a few plug guides to make them neater.












Now I just need an injector cover. There's a shop in Sweden that does carbon parts for these but I am not in a position to purchase them yet. I'll probably get the carbon plug cover, injector cover, and timing cover.

---

big progress!!

I found a floor. Yes, that's right, flintstone car is going away... eventually.

A fine gentlemen on the coast let me cut out the spare wheel well from his parts-car URS6 avant (black), so I loaded up the Mercedes and drove over. Apparently not the best thing to do during 4th of July weekend, but it wasn't bad until I hit Tacoma. His property was pretty dope. They had 17 cars apparently, consisting of almost entirely oldschool Audis. They were enthusiasts through and through, and it was a family affair with the father and son being completely infatuated with these machines. Loved it.



His Quattro


HOME!! Got home just before sunset.

All that for a wheel well. DOH.


The goods:







I cut it out with an angle grinder. Took 6 disks and went through two batteries, including one 60V Max battery, which kind of surprised me. I also cut into the top of the fiberglass here and there because it's really ****ing hard to cut out a spare wheel well from a car sitting in a field with nothing but an angle grinder. But it's almost perfect. There is one hole from something.. I think manufacturing defect or something. I am either going to figure out how to lay fiberglass now to repair some spots or hopefully find someone to do it for me for cheap, because I do not want to do that.

Also note that the camera's lens is making it look curved. It's perfectly flat on top. Thank god these were fiberglass and not metal because the entire bottom of the car was powdery rust (being from Colorado).

While there, I conventiently forgot to grab the interior cover for the damn thing so now I have to get that some other time somehow from him. I also forgot to check for a spare battery box, which he has, so i'll have to get that as well. Finally, I was going to grab the windshield from him, but he was reluctant to pull it because it would likely destroy the seal. I think maybe he just didn't want to sell it, I don't know. He is going to have a more experienced person pull the windshield. While I don't need the windshield, mine does have a rather large horizontal crack across most of the screen, and the mirror is loose, so doesn't stay put. I'm sure there's an easy fix for that... right?

Sorry for not getting a picture of the box getting cut out.. I was dripping sweat with a respirator and goggles on and a disk blew up on me once or twice, so I wasn't in the picture taking mood.



---


LASTLY,

I took some pictures to hopefully identify some plugs that are undone in the passenger side footwell. Also, a picture of the old and new MFTS sensor.


I believe this goes to the glove box, possibly






 
#141 ·
TO DO LIST:

  • Metal diverter valve
  • right hatch light is out
  • windshield wiper hoses+wiring
  • mfts sensor plug wiring
  • fuel system clean+flush
  • only one speaker functions (front passenger)
  • 034 Fuel battery relay install
  • wheel well repair + install
  • sound deadening in rear (wheel well and floor)
  • stromung exhaust (far out)
  • complete bushing replacement on everything
  • ceramic+powder coating of turbo+downpipe
  • wiring cleanup + heat shielding
  • wheels (ENKEI RPF1 looks like it is the ticket)
  • Possibly an IR to RF conversion
  • Clean and repaint intercooler (not black enough)
  • patch hole in passenger side fender -- possibly find replacements
  • find and bolt on an injector cover
  • relocate/shield the LS2 coils
  • find a rubber boot for hatch wiring
  • fix all temperature/pressure gauges
  • replace clock with boost gauge (in cluster)
  • re-mount ECU (it's not bolted in)
  • re-glue passenger side floor trim that is pulled back
  • register the car
  • drive car
 
#143 ·
#154 ·
#145 ·
UPDATE



interior things.

Taking the cluster out to replace the ignition switch, as well to change a few things in the cluster.


Scariest moment of my life








A few more screws (4, because one was missing) and the cluster is out.

Hm.... is that tape?



Christ. It sure is. Tape holding two lights on the right hand side of the cluster in. Lovely.




Meanwhile, from above... What could it be?


Lovely. Wood screws holding in the trim up there, and a trashed dome light trim unit. I might look to find another and then dye all of the plastic trim pieces black. Thoughts??



Sneak peek

finally..


What do you guys think? Keep the slightly more worn but arguably "sleeker" black trimmed cluster in which has a few broken bits on it, or put the other unit in? They're the same part number, but one is gray and one is black ringed. I could probably paint them if needed, but I don't know.

I also have some lightbulbs that I will be replacing in whichever cluster I decide to use, and then a "clock" mod :wave:


black front

black back


gray front

gray back.

Also, no idea what mileage is on the gray one. Black is 200k.






Oh yeah, and in case anybody wanted to see what a neglected URS6 looks like under the passenger footwell...
 
#148 ·
I've been making some more progress on some little and some bigger things. Haven't been updating here because I have been putting things on my website for easier access, so you can find that in my signature if you prefer to see stuff there. Mostly the same pics, but a few more frivolous ones over there.

Anyways!

UPDATE

Made some more progress on the gauge cluster. In fact, it is all set to go now except for a spacer I am waiting on from Mcmaster-Carr to hold the thing in place as well as color-matching the gauge face perfectly. This has taken the most time, probably.


stock clock removed




splitting apart the clock from the holder


Removed the donor vacuum gauge from the housing... breaking the glass in the process.


scale




It really is a pretty piece



"test" fitting


Realization that Im going to have to butcher this thing




Marking the housing for trim



Trimming and grinding of pokey bits done



Still not even close



Gorgeous piece... hope it works!


How it fits



What's that... a circuit board?


Uh oh...



All clear out the back


here goes nothing


Bigger...


Getting scary


#clearanced



Not pictures: grinding down one of the sides of the holder/face (acrylic part) to fit nicer...


Still does not fit. Other side has to go as well.


Nearly there, although I had to clearance some more bits later.


bingo



The notch is crudely cut for the gauge bulb to emit light into the gauge. (as well as to make room for the gauge to sit flush)


Bored out the original Voltage needle to fit the VDO boost gauge "male" end. This was from a spare gauge set that I had laying around, so if anyone has a replacement, send me it!





The gauge face from the original VDO gauge... too small. I'd say it needs to be about 10-15% larger. Welp.


Glamour shot?


Roughly how it will sit


The reason we need a spacer.


Glamour shot.


Soldering the connections to bypass the bridge that was previously connected through the old clock.



Filled up the "cups" and put in a basic wire. I think it's 18g or 22g

At this point I took the whole assembly, put it back together, and plugged it into the car to make damn sure that the whole thing still works. You don't grind and drill the hell out of something like this and just hope it works... To my surprise, it did! All gauges work like normal (except the clock obviously, because it is gone.)


Clearancing the rear-housing. There are many layers to this onion.

I am very unhappy with the level of boring I did in the rear side. I need to square it up somehow, and then I would like to make a cover for the rest of the area. Perhaps I will just electrical tape it to seal the hole.

This is just about where I stand while waiting for the rest of the pieces to finish it.
 
#149 ·
UPDATE #2 for the day

Meanwhile in wheel-well-world.


Phase 1: Cleanup



Literally dust.


Damage to be repaired.




Grinding that needs to happen to make flush



Fiberglass time! Specifically, I used 3m fiberglass sheets and 3m fiberglass reinforced bondo. I hate this crap.









Seriously, this stuff sucks, and is messy as hell. I have a whole new appreciation for bodywork guys.

>>>Sanding






>>> Painting







>>> Installation

Used 3m 2-part panel adhesive





Not exactly a perfectly flush fit as described more in-depth on my site, but it gets the job done nicely. Put some wheels in it overnight for curing.

The car now has a floor!
 
#150 ·
Congrats on getting hte floor in! That had to feel great.


Keep up the great work, I am loving following this along!
 
#153 ·
Wow man. Great work. :thumbup:
 
#156 ·
Welp --

My source for the MFTS connector (Jim Ellis Audi) has pulled a fast one and cancelled my order because the part is obsolete... YOU DON'T SAY? So now I need to find another source for that connector as mine crumbled.

Last night I was working on getting the fuel pump relay harness installed (From 034 Motorsports) and I completely destroyed the connector. This time it was my fault just being a dweeb and brute-forcing the pins as I did not have a de-pinning tool. So, trying to find that part now and ordering that.

I am finding that a lot of the time spent on this car is waiting for parts that don't exist anymore! I would 3d print some of these, however I am still waiting for my overnight parts from China for the 3d printer (4 months since ordering...)

 
#159 ·
A bit of engine bay wiring-tidying.. I wish it were easier to just cover everything in one sleeve, but there are so many tails coming off and the connectors are so large that I'd have to split the cover down the middle and then use something else to secure it, so it'd be super ugly... more than what I did, at least.













Waiting on the MFTS plug from England, now, which should hopefully finish this bit up. Basically just at a standstill waiting for plugs in regards to wiring.

All sensors have been replaced on the side of the block, so hopefully they all work.

Should finish the cluster today and get it re-installed. The final step is simply getting the perfect color match on the gauge face. I will probably just install it with basic printed paper, but I would like to get it professionally done at some point with high resolution printing and a harder (cardstock?) material.


---

Today I will be installing sound deadening to the rear hatch and the rear seat floor, assuming I bought enough, which I probably didn't.
 
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