[*] New Starter install
[*] Repair rear seat-heater plug
[*] Upholster bottom of seats
[*] Re-upholster wheel well to black [*] Undo the modded cluster
[*] install undertray [*] Install new air box
[*] Determine what the random wire is in the door [*]Metal diverter valve (PSH PSH PSHHHHH)
right hatch light is out
windshield wiper hoses+wiring [*]mfts sensor plug wiring [*]fuel system clean+flush [*]only one speaker functions (front passenger) [*]034 Fuel battery relay install [*]wheel well repair + install [*]sound deadening in rear (wheel well and floor)
stromung exhaust
complete bushing replacement on everything
ceramic+powder coating of turbo+downpipe
wiring cleanup + heat shielding
wheels (ENKEI RPF1 looks like it is the ticket)
Possibly an IR to RF conversion [*]Clean and repaint intercooler (not black enough)
patch hole in passenger side fender -- possibly find replacements
find and bolt on an injector cover [*]relocate/shield the LS2 coils
find a rubber boot for hatch wiring [*]fix all temperature/pressure gauges [*]replace clock with boost gauge (in cluster) - booooo this sucks [*]re-mount ECU (it's not bolted in)
Windshield replacement
register the car
drive car
So I am finally delving into the project car realm. I'm not too scared of things breaking, more concerned with buying a 1995 Audi in general. SoldOverSticker was a complete gentleman and went and looked at the car for me and I decided to pull the trigger. I know 2Bennet is the go-to for parts for these things, and the guy I am buying it from is heavily involved in the California racing scene so it's got all kinds of goodies coming with it.
Any of you ever own a URS6/4? Teach me about them. Enjoy the ride.
I had made this post but my computer crashed, so I am making it again.
Car runs again. Fuel system seems to be working just fine, although it does NOT prime when ACC is turned on. That seems like it could be a problem in the longer term. It's gotta crank to prime fuel for a second or two as the pump only runs on the ON position with the 034 relay harness, assuming I did it correctly.
The bad news:
Still no gauge readouts for temperature (neither oil nor water). I've ordered a thermostat, but that is wishful thinking. Not sure where to go next on this one. This is the same exact thing that happened before. It's not the cluster as I replaced the cluster entirely. It shouldn't be the MFTS as there is both a new sensor and sensor plug, as well as fresh wiring... unless I wired it wrong (which I doubt).
I also hate the boost gauge in the console, and I'm getting no response on getting a custom one made, so I am going to put the clock back in from the other cluster most likely. It's also apparently the completely wrong size gauge for the thing as it only goes to like 15 psi.
I got some spacers for it as the upper control arms were rubbing on the tire just a bit... those things are seriously aggressive.
Here are some pics and a video of the startup.
The temp got hot super fast. Boiling within 15 minutes, just with a few slight revs. The radiator fans are coming on just fine, so I suspect there is no water even going to the block or not enough circulating. If the thermostat doesn't work, then I will likely just go for a timing and waterpump replacement kit. If that doesn't do it, then I am trading this thing for a huffy.
Also, the starter still stops wanting to work after a bit. I think it's getting too hot.
Car runs again. Fuel system seems to be working just fine, although it does NOT prime when ACC is turned on. That seems like it could be a problem in the longer term. It's gotta crank to prime fuel for a second or two as the pump only runs on the ON position with the 034 relay harness, assuming I did it correctly.
Very nice progress, the car (and that gauge cluster) are looking great!
Not that it's a great or proper solution, but would you consider rigging a little pushbutton bypass for priming the fuel pump? You could hide it under the dash, but I'd be inclined to mount it somewhere and put a little "push to prime" tag under it like it's part of a starting procedure.
Yeah that GTX was a riot! Big turbo, MS2, front mount... Lotta oomph for that tiny car :laugh:
I think that white one may have actually ended up somewhere in Eastern WA but we sorta lost touch with the dude a few years ago
Coolant bleeder is basically a Venturi that pulls hard vacuum on the whole system, then it replaces the vacuum with coolant so it fill every cavity. They were spendy and kinda iffy quality for the knock offs on eBay until recently and HF now has one (I actually just used on a vanagon last weekend) thats really pretty nice
If it saves time - not sure how tedious radiator removal is on those - you could try building a little garden hose flush setup so you could idle the thing on the hose for a few (with the tstat out) to just flush the whole system. I've had good luck doing this to clean some absolute garbage out of cooling systems, think coffee grounds looking water.
Just need a ball valve with some appropriately sized plastic hose splices from the plumbing section, insert it at the feed hose from the radiator, and go to town.
Hmmmm, this might be a plan here. Evacuate it all at the thermostat housing then? I'll need to rig something up for that, as conveniently the therm. housing is right next to the alternator!
red = thermostat
blue = garden hose
green = reservoir feed clamped off...
If it saves time - not sure how tedious radiator removal is on those - you could try building a little garden hose flush setup so you could idle the thing on the hose for a few (with the tstat out) to just flush the whole system. I've had good luck doing this to clean some absolute garbage out of cooling systems, think coffee grounds looking water.
Just need a ball valve with some appropriately sized plastic hose splices from the plumbing section, insert it at the feed hose from the radiator, and go to town.
Hopefully be done with it by winter, at which point I will be tired of the old Audi crayon smell. That smell gives me anxiety for real.
I still have to get the Stromung Exhaust for it. I'll forego the RPF1's as I don't want to dump that much money into it on wheels if I am just going to sell it, plus these are decent wheels. I'm going to likely get the local wheel guy to resurface and freshen them up. He's really good at that kind of stuff.
From there, it is just fixing (hopefully) a few little things.
Oh, and probably a new starter.
and have someone fix the hole in the fender.
I should be picking up the floor for the hatch next week (carpeting stuff) and battery stuff.
I need to swap the good seat heating assembly over to the seat with the ecru alcantara, as at one point there was a burnination.
I wouldn't clamp anything off, just pop the garden hose into one of the rad hoses and then let water run out the open end of the radiator into your bucket or drain pan.
I had to do this to the MG swap as the junkyard Miata motor I used turned out to have all kinds of settled garbage in it.
A few rounds of running off the hose draining, closing it up and running prestone cooling system cleaner for a few minutes, then running off the hose to rise it out, and it was good as new
Some parts in today so I dug in a tad. New thermostat, a brake caliper bleeder cover (wooooo!), and some diff oil. I don't think I ordered enough diff oil.
One of the temperature sensors lovingly snapped off at the threads, so now I have to drill that out of the head. Cool!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Finally got the stripped screw out of the therm housing. Can't proceed until I get a replacement or find one in my stash. During my investigation of the water hoses, I found out that there is a massive buildup of calcium or some other sort of earthen dilemma that was surround the external part of the pipe it attaches to, as well as inside of it. I'm starting to think I will be needing to use that spare engine, especially since I'm going to be doing the water pump and timing belt regardless. Previous owner states there is around 100k on this engine (swapped in from an S4 that he daily drove.) He suggested I put the head from the spare onto the block of the one in the car if I were to swap... for some reason.
pic is blurry and frankly ur just gonna have to deal with it at this time
In other news: Does anyone want to buy a 2016 audi S5?! 16k miles!!
Whatever this residue is inside the thermostat... it was powdery.
Pic of the brand new temp sensor that had snapped off, probably by overtorque
After the 2nd run of rad cleaner
the residue. It's like a half a mm of this goop
So yeah... waiting on the thermostat housing bolts to get here then I can get the thermostat re-installed.
Also waiting on the heater core valve replacement to get here from Lithuania (again). There is a majorly weird valve thing going on with the heater core, and I also noted that there is DEFINITELY not hot air blowing from the AC. The previous owner mentioned something about a lever under the dash that he had to turn in order to get hot air? I'll need to investigate that more. It is looking more and more likely that i'll be replacing the heater core on this thing.
Whatever this residue is inside the thermostat... it was powdery.
So yeah... waiting on the thermostat housing bolts to get here then I can get the thermostat re-installed.
Also waiting on the heater core valve replacement to get here from Lithuania (again). There is a majorly weird valve thing going on with the heater core, and I also noted that there is DEFINITELY not hot air blowing from the AC. The previous owner mentioned something about a lever under the dash that he had to turn in order to get hot air? I'll need to investigate that more. It is looking more and more likely that i'll be replacing the heater core on this thing.
Hopefully you are replacing that housing with the T-stat. You can see the degraded edge, it will leak. The 2.8 had the same problem when they switched over to plastic.
Correction -- the "lever" thing was just him changing the actuators manually under the dash to change defrost/front vent blower directions (electric motor must be dead?)
180k on the block and 60k on the head on this engine. If the thermostat and heater core do not resolve the problem then I will take the heater core out and look at it/replace it. If this does not resolve the problem then I am putting in the newer engine.
I’ve said it before, but...you are a brave soldier for taking on a project of this magnitude. I also hate all of the people who have hacked up this car before you.
Eh, the servos can just fail too. I've had to replace 2 of them in my car... they just stop working. Currently don't have defrost... so.. probably another servo.
Will Audi Tradition ship to the US? Last I heard, they wouldn't.
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