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66K views 934 replies 80 participants last post by  LT1M21Stingray 
#1 · (Edited)
TO DO LIST:


  • [*] New Starter install
    [*] Repair rear seat-heater plug
    [*] Upholster bottom of seats
    [*] Re-upholster wheel well to black
    [*] Undo the modded cluster
    [*] install undertray
    [*] Install new air box
    [*] Determine what the random wire is in the door

    [*]Metal diverter valve (PSH PSH PSHHHHH)
  • right hatch light is out
  • windshield wiper hoses+wiring
    [*]mfts sensor plug wiring
    [*]fuel system clean+flush
    [*]only one speaker functions (front passenger)
    [*]034 Fuel battery relay install
    [*]wheel well repair + install
    [*]sound deadening in rear (wheel well and floor)
  • stromung exhaust
  • complete bushing replacement on everything
  • ceramic+powder coating of turbo+downpipe
  • wiring cleanup + heat shielding
  • wheels (ENKEI RPF1 looks like it is the ticket)
  • Possibly an IR to RF conversion
    [*]Clean and repaint intercooler (not black enough)
  • patch hole in passenger side fender -- possibly find replacements
  • find and bolt on an injector cover
    [*]relocate/shield the LS2 coils
  • find a rubber boot for hatch wiring
    [*]fix all temperature/pressure gauges
    [*]replace clock with boost gauge (in cluster) - booooo this sucks
    [*]re-mount ECU (it's not bolted in)
  • Windshield replacement
  • register the car
  • drive car


So I am finally delving into the project car realm. I'm not too scared of things breaking, more concerned with buying a 1995 Audi in general. SoldOverSticker was a complete gentleman and went and looked at the car for me and I decided to pull the trigger. I know 2Bennet is the go-to for parts for these things, and the guy I am buying it from is heavily involved in the California racing scene so it's got all kinds of goodies coming with it.

Any of you ever own a URS6/4? Teach me about them. Enjoy the ride.




 
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#43 ·
If you ever put the rear seat bottom in, please cover the positive post. You don't want the rear seat springs touching that terminal, arcing and causing a fire. :eek:

Seats have been redone at some point. Looks like a color swap (door panels, seats, carpet) for the interior too. Can't tell if the seat belts are gray or tan, that was the original color of the interior, including carpet.
 
#44 ·
If you ever put the rear seat bottom in, please cover the positive post. You don't want the rear seat springs touching that terminal, arcing and causing a fire. :eek:
Spoken like somebody that has owned an aircooled beetle at some point. :laugh:
 
#45 ·
Very nice purchase,I love old Audis,too. There is a guy on YouTube with a channel called "Broken Quattros" -- (iirc,he's a member on here) --might want to check it out for info on parts interchangeability between different models/years since stuff is becoming so scarce with these cars. Good luck and have fun with it :thumbup:
 
#48 ·
For a terminal cover just get anything, rubber or plastic to cover the terminal. It looks like your battery should have had a cover similiar to this:




You can see the holes on your battery where those pins should go into.

I would also ask around on Quattroworld, someone might know the car.

If you get the itch to mod the exhaust: Stromung sounds good to me.

http://www.stromungexhaust.com/92-955-s4-s6-ur-quattro.html
 
#50 ·
You wanted a project...

You definitely got a project. :laugh:
 
#51 ·
Hell ya! I totally blacked out, to be honest. I have no idea how I ended up with this. I was looking for B5 biturbos and decided they're all beat to hell or rusty so I went for this one when I saw it.

Aside: I checked out that Atlanta guy's prices... they're okay, but still a bit steep.


edit: Congrats on making it through the 2nd page, no more mega scrolling!
 
#59 ·
Firstly, I'm going to try not to upload ridiculously large images anymore.

Here are some more pictures of some things that need doing.




Big yikes. Something pretty wacky is going on with the wires here. I think everything works, though.


If you look very closely, you'll see where the misfire is coming from (hopefully!)


Yuck... I need to give the floor a deep cleaning, then I think I will be adding some sound deadening, but I don't want to pull up the whole carpet.


What you're seeing here is what I believe to be the windshield squirter hose. Disconnected, and cabling cut.


Driver's side fuse box. On the left side (above the red fuse) is where I believe the windshield sprayer fuse is, but I am not positive. I'll need to do some digging, but it is on the low low list.


What you are seeing here is the reason that the hood is off -- it doesn't open. There is no tension on the latch cable, so I need to find those tensioners to get that working again. Side note: This is the most silly hood latch system ever. There are two levers that get pulled in and then a 3rd lever you move to the side with your hand to open the hood. Oh, Germans.





As she sits before we begin...


Some more goodies...


034 Motorsport fuel rail, too! I'm pretty sure one of the POs just went and loaded up on every 034 bolt-on.


2Bennett adjustable coil system. Pretty expensive option!


2Bennet Brembo big brake kit! I'll need to get the exact kit, I think there's a pamphlet somewhere here. Pretty expensive kit, though.


Again, coil delete kit by 034.



Getting into the diagnosis and work...

So, the seller said it has a misfire. He said he thinks it was the ignition switch, but he changed that out (allegedly) and there was no difference. He then said it is probably the O2 sensor. I did a tiny bit of digging, and low and behold, there is essentially no O2 sensor.



So this is the wiring that comes from the ECU to the ground and the positive side of the O2 sensor. As you can see, it does not exist.


And this is why. The cabling snapped off immediately upon touching the wire. This was the negative end. The positive end was also snapped off (but still holding in place, connected).



The other end, for reference.


So, what next? I pulled out the injector bank and the O34 strut bar to dig out the cable. There were a few zipties to undo (which snapped promptly with the slightest pressure) and I was able to fish out the loom. The wiring was so short that in order to work with it properly, I had to cut into the loom. I will get some large heat-shrink at some point to fix that -- you'll see what a mean.





Then, I crimped some terminal connectors after peeling back the sheathing and stripping the wires. Electricians: Does this look okay? :laugh:





The heat shrink I had ended up being just a tad too large, but the other stuff I had was a tad too small... I took some plyers to it to square it up anyways. I'm sure this is probably not ideal.



I then wanted to make it a little bit nicer, so I heatshrunk the heatshrink.



Now I wait on the O2 sensor that is on order. I'll start it up tomorrow to see if the current O2 sensor in it is any good, but I suspect not. Also, I forgot to mark which one was negative before the heatshrink went on.






Bonus!!

So I ordered and installed some hatch struts. After initially ordering the wrong struts (for the sedan), these came in and fit just fine.

Next up: Maintenance!!
 
#68 ·
weatherpack sucks and theyre really bulky

but yeah, you can get the parts cheap, and theyre fairly easy to work with. so thats a plus...

deut$ch is always the right answer :laugh: but....

though it looks like you can get 2 pin kits for under $10 on amazon. not sure if theyre knockoff, and youd have the problem of finding a good crimper. but theres probably no better waterproof auto grade connection you can make at home
 
#71 ·
Do. Not. Go. Cheap. On. Wiring.

Do. It. Right.

Of all the possible gremlins a car may posses, none will lead to balding faster than wiring issues. Do the wiring right, do it once, and enjoy a well operating vehicle because of it.

You do the wiring half assed and you're going to be fixing it for the entirety of your ownership.
 
#72 ·
Loud and clear! I completely agree. I guess I was just trying to blow off some steam yesterday and needed something to do :laugh:



I'm going to get some pics, but I looked at the underside the other day and wow, I was mega disappointed. Overall the thing is clean. No rust at all which is very nice considering the car started off in the East for it's very early life. That being said, the exahust is NOT a Stromung exchaust. At least not from the cat back. It's all custom welded Borla and Magnaflow garbage.
 
#76 ·
Update!

Spent some time in the garage today. My eyes are just now recovering from the millions of little pieces of grime that got stuck in my eyes. I need some goggles for next time.

Starting off

I dug into the wiring to get the O2 sensor working. By that, I mean I plugged it in after my lovely wiring job the other day. Started it up and ruh roh, it bogged! No fear, I switched the wires around (50/50 chance in getting it right the first time) and this time no bog! I think the O2 sensor is sorted. I have Deutsch connectors on the way to wire it up correctly, but for now this is fine. I need to run to work to grab my Surface to run VCDS and grab some codes to verify it is resolved.

Next up

I talked a little about the exhaust before. Well, here it is. Yikes!





And no, I am not smart enough to zoom out first.



How did we get to that point? Well, there were these absolutely terrible hangers installed. I highly doubt they were stock because, well, they clearly were not. I'm not quite sure yet where the stock hanger locations are (haven't looked), but I don't think it's where these were. It also makes me even more suspect about this being a Stromung exhaust.


This was the hanger. It rubbed on the sway bar, unfortunately. I'll need to take the sway bar off and get that powder coated when I decide on doing that.


Hanger on the exhaust... not the best welding/rust protection.
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
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This is the hanger slightly further up, near the first muffler



Rusty bolts...


Rusty and crusty. I think there was porbably a gasket there at some point, but not for some time. The bolts were welded on pretty hard from rust and torqued to hell. I think this exhaust has likely been on the car for a very long time.




While under there, I got a bunch of pictures of the undercarriage. There are a couple of spots that were slightly worrying, but overall not too bad.

First off: A wet spot right around where I believe the fuel tank is, near the back seats. Hmmm....



Pretty dirty, but not rusty.




Tiny bit of rust up near the hanger (spread from the hanger itself.)


And finally, the most concerning spot... under the trunk.




And a random hanger, which I don't believe is for the exhaust.




Rear way bar attachment

Also, a shot of the 2Bennett Bilstein coils!



And the absolutely destroyed bushing..




Finally, finishing up the day, I test fitted my S5 rotor wheels. They're 1" larger and quite a bit wider. The Avus wheels are terrible to look at, in my opinion. They're extremely heavy for their size and poorly balanced, as well.

Fisheye, sorry not sorry (only way to get the whole car in frame)




Yes, the front does have a slight spacer. The brakes are cleared by about 5mm.




When I took off the wheel nuts, I noticed that they were all cross-threaded. Not only that, but the wheel studs were as well. It's probably time to replace them, anyways, so I'll be doing that.
 
#78 · (Edited)
This place might have some electrical connectors you are looking for : https://eagleday.stores.yahoo.net/elparandtool.html

I know they made several versions on the Stromung exhaust over the years but thought they had dual tips : http://www.stromungexhaust.com/92-955-s4-s6-ur-quattro.html

Oh, and I just remembered another site for Audi AAN info, parts, etc : https://www.motorgeek.com/

This guy has a bunch of parts : https://www.motorgeek.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=218427&view=unread#unread

This, just for the sheer volume of info:

https://forums.quattroworld.com/s4s6/msgs/15184.phtml
 
#85 · (Edited)
Thanks for the tips! A couple fellers over in the TCL discord helped point me the right direction -- I ended up ordering about 20 connectors from Waytek-wire.


All-up - I have seen allot worse exhausts.

Let VCG take you down the wiring rabbit hole with a shopping list from WayTek. Its solid stuff at decent prices. Great zip lock bags lol.

The 02 sensor in the 930 is about that close to the turbine housing, that's sort of where you want it on a turbo car. Definitely not in the manifold as the stock 930 did. It may shorten the life a little sure. Mine has been fine but I will eventually put in a heat sink.

Keep up the work.


I've definitely seen worse too, but never owned worse! I'm going to be taking off the cat that's on it now just to see what it's like, and if there is any difference from the extra one I've got here.

I am definitely open to any and all electrical tips! I've already had someone tell me to just run new cable to the trunk, but I don't think I am going to go that crazy... I don't want to rip the interior apart.

FWIW, I wouldn't be too terribly disappointed in that. I had a 1st gen forester a few years back and I bought a Stromung exhaust for it. It was LOUD. I immediately hated it as soon as I started it up. I liked the sound, but it was just too loud and would drone terribly while driving. 0/10, would not recommend.
I'm open to other options, but frankly Stromung is the only kit that I have come across that is a bolt-on that is still for sale in 2020. I am open to others!

Looks like someone managed to out-German ze Germans here, and come up with something even more complicated and less effective than stock.

Keep us posted, OP! Great to read about your experiences. :thumbup:
Not only was it rusty and the rubber bushing was falling apart, but you can't even get it off the hangar because it runs into the rear crossmember.

Stromung exhaust doesn't look like that- they also have dual tips (at least Gen 2-3.5). They're also not cut/welded construction- mandrel bent pipes all the way through.

This is what a Stromung looks like:
http://www.stromungexhaust.com/92-955-s4-s6-ur-quattro.html
Yep -- I think the guy got sold a story on that exhaust, or I did!

I've had the opposite experience. I've got a Stromung on each of my E30s and had one on my E36 M3. Excellent sound and not load at all. They are regarded as one of the quieter aftermarket exhausts in the BMW world.

I bought all mine on group buys. Prices were good and the company was really easy to deal with.

I want one, especially since it is cheap (relatively). I'm interested in other options, though. I can't find them...



Also, I found this post which made me chuckle

I bet the PO of this car I own saw that post at some point when they decided to remove my spare wheel well :p
 
#79 ·
All-up - I have seen allot worse exhausts.

Let VCG take you down the wiring rabbit hole with a shopping list from WayTek. Its solid stuff at decent prices. Great zip lock bags lol.

The 02 sensor in the 930 is about that close to the turbine housing, that's sort of where you want it on a turbo car. Definitely not in the manifold as the stock 930 did. It may shorten the life a little sure. Mine has been fine but I will eventually put in a heat sink.

Keep up the work.
 
#88 ·
Update!

Not much to update -- Studs came and so I'll put those in once I find time. I am currently cleaning up the garage of cardboard and parts in order to get the other problem child in there to fix the suspension. In the mean time, I snapped photos of all of the parts the car came with. Take a look at the imgur album https://imgur.com/a/lMSGk4h

Still waiting on the wiring stuff to come in to get started on the O2 sensor again. Once I get that sorted out as well as the wheel studs, I think I should be able to go for a drive. I really hope the replacement brake bomb did the trick, because the brakes still seem pretty stiff.


Also, I am open to suggestions on wheels and exhaust. So far I have seen a lot of examples of wheels but not sure which direction I want to go. Also, are there any other exhausts outside of Stromung?

FINALLY, if anyone has a thermal ceramic coating recommendation for the PNW, please give me a shout.
 
#89 ·
Update!



Also, I am open to suggestions on wheels and exhaust. So far I have seen a lot of examples of wheels but not sure which direction I want to go.
Stock wheels.

 
#95 ·
Those are 17" wheels right, original Avus wheels were 16". The UR-S4 had these wheels:



I had BBS RC wheels:

 
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