That carpet looks amazing! I've spent so many hours with my Little Green Machine in the past trying to get super-disgusting carpet clean in the broken used cars that I've bought - The last few times I've just pulled the carpet out and attacked it with my powerwasher in the driveway, only because it takes less time than the hours spent trying to scrub it in place. What was your method? Or was it just not that bad?
Originally Posted by sosumi on the B6 S4 V8
It makes a mess of the rest of the interior, especially glass and plastics. Definitely not a one day job.
Started looking at seats closer. Seems the seller got his facts wrong. He is pretty sure they came from a 2011 extended cab ranger. Unless the extended cab 2d seats are the same as the regular cab...either way I'm going to have to rework the rails. Which entails drilling out the rivets and swapping mounts. Won't be the first time I've had to modify seat brackets and I am fully aware of the safety implications of such an endeavor. The last set of seats I did entailed grafting mk3 GLX seat bottoms with mk2 recaro lower bolster rails and swapping mk3 to mk2 seat backs to get late mk2 Recaro seats to fit in a mk3. Wish I still had pictures, but I told photobucket to shove it. Lesson learned on my part (backups 101).
Let the chop cut rebuild begin
Pay special attention to the rear of the seat mounts, original seats first with replacements second. Funny how Ford can make rod bolts the same between 5.0L windsor V8's and 4.0L SOHC V6's but redesign seat brackets between regular cab and extended cab Rangers
Next up...headers. OEM manifolds are inexpensive, but for just a little bit more I can get rid of the crusty old cast iron boat anchors for something shiny.
Grade A Chinesium, but overall not too bad. The runners are all inset and welded on the inside of the flange, along with some stich welds on the outside of the flange. Collectors aren't fancy, but work. They are made for a variety of years 4.0 SOHC. As such, the passenger side EGR port wasn't needed for my truck. Cut off EGR tube and weld flush.
Last, the flanges were not very flat; so off to the belt sander to flatten up the gasket surface.
Tomorrow I will get the drivers window regulator done. 2nd head is disassembled and soaking for a second time to RELEASE THE SHMOO!!! Next week I hope to have the longblock complete.
In the mean time, plastic bag keeps dust bunnies from multiplying.
I forgot to mention that old piston rings work awesome for cleaning out carbon/sludge from piston ring lands
The reason why it's not an actual torque spec is because head bolts are usually installed clean and wet with fresh oil. This would never hit a repeatable torque value to get uniform load on all the bolts, thus the torque-angle method is used.
New valve stem seals. New hydraulic valve lash adjusters. Getting the old ones out was a PITA as I think I mentioned before, vice grips and a heat gun to expand the aluminum around the adjuster just enough. Installation was much easier, put new ones in freezer overnight and the drop right in. Once warmed up, they don't go anywhere.
Valve to seat mating surfaces freshened up with a little hand/drill lapping. Installing valve keepers is one of many jobs where 3 hands would be REALLY nice. Cam bearing caps require an interesting torque sequence; 53 in/lb and then 12 ft/lb. Bar type torque wrench from when I worked on bicycles came in handy.
Fresh MLS headgasket and then crank it all down. Next is the timing chain setup. Gonna be fun I'm sure
Also threw on the headers for fun. Oil filter adapter/pickup and passenger side collecter flange were a bit too close for comfort, so a little clearancing was in order. OEM exhaust gaskets are stamped stainless. With the imperfect flange surface of the headers even after surfacing I decided to go with the less fancy double metal compressable gasket; should have taken a photo, but its the 3/32 thick metallized stuff that looks perforated. Hope for no exhaust leaks. Exhaust stud threads chased and cleaned before new exhaust copper lock nuts bolted on.
Cam jackshaft also installed with thrust plate. I've been using Lucas assembly lube, I used to have a tub of red ARP assembly oil/grease but ran out on the last motor I built (2.9L forged internal VR6 for booOOOOOSSSst). Lucas stuff seems decent so far.
Got all setup to start timing the cams and realized I mis-placed the lower timing chain. I must have chucked it when I cleaned out the garage last weekend. DAMNIT.
We got little over a foot of snow during the past 24 hours and I was really hoping to stay at home today; work got shutdown and a 3 day weekend was looking productive.
Guess I'll shovel snow and chase the wife around the house with cold hands instead. Revenge for all those times when cold feet end up on me to warm up
That was the number one reason to rebuild a motor, replace all the timing chain components with new.
Tascaparts has been my go to for Ford parts. $35 for a new lower timing chain from them. Not cheaping out on aftermarket for such a critical part, especially when there isn't an improved version anywhere (tensioners).
I DID go aftermarket for the oil pump and thermostat housing. Melling high flow oil pump with steel pickup tube instead of the plastic Ford part. Also got an aluminum T-stat housing because the plastic Ford one likes to leak.