Help to identify wheel knock and unknown grease on ball joint/control arm
Hey guys,
I'm having some clicking/knocking coming from my left front wheel. I just had an alignment done about two weeks ago, so I'm assuming all steering components are fine. When I removed the tire, there was a lot of dirty grease buildup on the ball joint/control arm. Is this coming from the CV joint? The boot like in good condition but is there some grease possibly coming out of the end? Please have a look. Some pictures are after I scraped some grease of with a flathead.
This has become a nightmare. I think I should have removed the axle on the wheel side first then the transaxle side. I loosened the axle nut then loosened and removed the 6 on the other end however it popped out of the trans side and I couldn’t get it out of the wheel side. I decided to loosen the 3 lower ball joint nuts to see if it would give me some play but 2 of the bolts broke off. So I’ll have to replace the ball joints too.
I’ve noticed that this entire side is fairly rusty and there is quite a bit of peeling plus the 2 ball joint bolts breaking. It might sound silly but I’m wondering if this is from the axle grease, as it was pretty dry, so it’s been there for a while.
What do you guys think and any tricks you’ve used to get the axle out. I tried hammering the bolt and it helped but it doesn’t quite have enough clearance to get out.
you don't have to remove the whole driveshaft. the cv joint at the wheel will tap off once you remove the gaiter. is it a big nut or a bolt on the outside of the joint???
I'm having some clicking/knocking coming from my left front wheel. I just had an alignment done about two weeks ago, so I'm assuming all steering components are fine. When I removed the tire, there was a lot of dirty grease buildup on the ball joint/control arm. Is this coming from the CV joint? The boot like in good condition but is there some grease possibly coming out of the end? Please have a look. Some pictures are after I scraped some grease of with a flathead.
Sorry, it's an '07 A3 3.2. I didn't think that mattered.
It's a 27mm bolt. I removed it along with the 6 triple square bolts at the transmission side. I screwed the bolt back on by only a few threads and tried to hammer out the axle, but it didn't work. The joint compresses but there just isn't enough clearance. So I tried to remove the lower ball joint nuts but the bolts snapped.
you will need to get the ball joint out of the way before the cv will come out of the hub. new cv usually comes with a new gaiter, so you can just slice the old one off before you tap the cv joint off the shaft.
I got the axle out and the CV off. I'm picking up the new parts tomorrow. I was going to do the right side ball joint at the same time so they're both new.
One question, the picture below, am I supposed to line up the arrow with something when reassembling?
no need to line up anything but the splines. then just tap it home:thumbup: I wouldn't bother changing the other balljoint unless the rubber is torn or there is play in it. if it's original it will be far better quality than your local autoparts can supply.
Ok, thanks. I actually already got both ball joints from the dealer. Unfortunately when I asked for a CV joint they only ordered the boot, So I will have to call back tomorrow and get the joint. I decided to do both ball joints so they're both new. Hopefully the passenger side doesn't give me any headaches.
I don't like to replace genuine parts unless they are faulty. I would just keep the other new ball joint and fit it if/when the old one fails. oe quality is hard to beat:thumbup:
well regardless of where you purchase the new part, there is nothing to be gained by renewing a part that is not faulty. you are giving yourself unnecessary work and expense. $500 for a cv joint is daylight robbery:screwy: defo go aftermarket on that one:thumbup:
Good idea. I'm also looking for balljoint and CV joint to flange. After looking into it, I've realized that the 6 bolt that connect the inner CV to the flange should also be replaced along with the main axle bolt.
iv'e reused the gearbox flange bolts a couple of times without issue. can usually get away with it. there is far too much of this "replace bolts" going on these days I think it's just a money maker on most occasions.
I also question whether it's a money grab. I try to balance saving money with quality. I can't afford OEM everything but I don't want to have issues because I was trying to save money.
Anyways, I called around and this is what my options are for the boot kit.
Re manufactured axle for $215. (Carquest brand)
New Febi CV joint kit for $238
Dealer boot kit for $425.
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