Fourtitude.com - P0011 Help needed please. Fourth visit to mechanic is near.
Username or Email Address
Do you already have an account?
Forgot your password?
  • Log in or Sign up

    Fourtitude.com


    Results 1 to 3 of 3
    1. Semi-n00b
      Join Date
      Jul 21st, 2007
      Location
      Minnesota
      Posts
      19
      Cars
      2012 Audi A4Q PP 6M 83k mi.
      11-16-2019 08:33 PM #1
      QUICK-ISH SUMMARY: 2012 A4 2.0TFSI 6M 86k miles. P0011/P00a codes for six months. Replaced: timing chain (06K109158AD), tensioner, guides, timing cover (06H109210AG), slide rail, N205/intake cam control valve/VVT solenoid (06H109257C), water pump. what next?

      SYMPTOMS: not much. fuel economy potentially (23.5 mpg on my last tank/generally around 25-27- this was after water pump failed, prior to wp and N205 valve replacement), potential loss of power (nothing dramatic, just doesn't feel peppy).

      What I've noticed:
      • CEL turns on after I've hit 83-85 mph in 6th gear for >.25 mi
      • based on May VAG-COM (below), CEL turns on when decelerating from higher speeds, at ~70mph
        I've read something about a potential vaccuum issue upon deceleration that pulls oil...not sure/don't recall.



      BACKGROUND (feel free to skip): I bought this car (2012 A4 2.0TFSI man 86k miles) in May 2018. Prior to my ownership, from what I know (print out from dealer, it was a lease), the pressure regulating valve was replaced @ 49k miles. At 72k miles (2 months before i purchased) the tech noted that the clutch was damaged due to the rear crankshaft seal leaking. The work order says the input and output shaft seals were replaced, as well as the flywheel, clutch plate, and pressure place assemblies. I asked the salesman about the rear crankshaft seal being replaced, and he said it was (I believe I have this in email).

      Fast forward a year, Apr 2018, CEL come on (~83k miles). I don't notice any symptoms, but I am not the most attentive. Took to autozone, P0011A (3) -- Intake Camshaft Position Timing - Over-Advanced.

      VISIT #1
      : Bring into local shop 5.13.19 - he runs tests, nothing looks out of line, and I had to leave for vacation, so I took car back.

      FAULTS 5.13.19 (from local shop)
      2753 - Throttle Valve Controller -
      P1545 00 [096] - Malfunction
      Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested since memory clear

      2754 - Throttle Valve Controller
      P1545 00 [096] - Malfunction
      Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested since memory clear

      2796 - Camshaft Positioner (Bank 1 Intake)
      P000a 00 [236] - Slow Response
      MIL ON - Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
      Freeze Frame:
      Fault Status: 00000001
      Fault Priority: 2
      Fault Freqency: 5
      Mileage: 133644 km

      Engine Speed: 2410.5/min
      Normed load value: 21.6%
      vehicle speed: 113 km/h
      coolant temp: 97c
      Intake air temp: 23c
      Ambient Air pressure: 970 mbar

      2795 - Bank 1: Camshaft A (Intake)
      P0011 00 [237] - Retard Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanced)
      MIL ON- Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
      Freeze Frame:
      Fault Status: 00000001
      Fault Priority: 2
      Fault Frequency: 4
      Mileage: 133715 km

      Engine Speed 2365.00/min
      Normed Load Value: 31.4%
      Vehicle speed: 111 km/h
      Coolant temp: 96c
      Intake air temp: 24c
      Ambient air pressure: 970 mbar
      Unlearning counter according to OBD: 40

      10544 - Cold Start Ignition Timing Performance
      P050B 00 [096]
      Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear

      After reset in May, light came on shortly after. I call my mechanic to set up appt, but light goes off in three days, so I cancel. I can get light to go off if I keep it below ~85 mph for ~3 days (after it goes on, which happens after I've been going ~85 mph).

      VISIT #2:
      7.23.19. Replace Timing chain, timing cover, cover gasket, chain tensioner, slide rail, chain guides. (I do not have detailed fault code reading from this appt). Light goes on a couple (1-3) weeks later (longest amt of time thus far). I continue trying to keep it below 85 mph to get the light to go off (as when it's off, I forget, and tend to go fast, triggering CEL). This works (keeping CEL off/making it go off in three days) for about 2 months. I probably had the codes read in Aug from autozone, P011.

      End of Sept, I notice the light will not go off with my "trick". Light stays on for about a month. End of Oct - low coolant light goes on. I fill up coolant, check for anything blatantly obvious, nada. Coolant light again 2 days later. This thing is leaking big time. coolant in my driveway if I'm waiting for garage door, coolant in my garage, etc. My guy's booked a couple weeks, so I fill up coolant daily.

      VISIT #3: 11.07.19 replaced water pump (bad seal to engine), and replaced VVT solenoid/N205 valve/intake cam control valve. 11.08.19 - light is on, don't think I hit ~85, think maybe 80-82. Autozone - P011A.

      I've looked into this a little bit, and the only other thing I'm seeing are the cam bridge somethingorother.

      I'll be bringing back to my mechanic, but he says he's kind of stumped, so I'd welcome any input.

      Thoughts, ideas, comments???
      Last edited by Bolkswagen; 11-17-2019 at 01:33 PM.

    2. Remove Advertisements

      Advertisements
       

    3. Semi-n00b
      Join Date
      Jul 21st, 2007
      Location
      Minnesota
      Posts
      19
      Cars
      2012 Audi A4Q PP 6M 83k mi.
      12-07-2019 09:06 PM #2
      Whelp.

      Took to dealer, they tell me that P0011 is not related to timing chain, etc, and that they would have known that, had I brought the car into them (is that true?). They tell me they want to replace the oil pressure control valve/N248. I balk at the cost, but agree. A day later, I mention that the rear main seal was replaced right before I purchase the car, and that I've already replaced the water pump (I was asking how much an engine was, b/c I was going to be $6-7k into this car this year). He takes a couple hours to get back to me, and tells me that it's an educated guess, but they think they've found a way to test the valve (previously told me they couldn't), and it tested fine. Now recommend replacing camshaft. Said it must have a blockage in the oil passages. Ok...confused, but I was trying to get to Thanksgiving, so not much time for questions. Replace it. No light yet (replaced last Wed)!

      So, the apparent solution was a new camshaft.

      My questions to you all: Is P0011 really not something related to timing chain, etc.? Is there a test my mechanic could have ran that would have determined it was the camshaft? My mechanic said the chain/tensioner/guides looked fine. Is there a way to tell the issue was blocked passage, in or out of the vehicle? I asked them how the cam looked, but he did not answer my question. I'm asking again now, but fearing that he might just say they "don't remember". What is the root cause here????? I'm not understanding. Could it be related to the main seal leak that was replaced right before I purchased? Could it be related to the water pump (idk, sorry)? I feel like it's lack of oil...but WHY. The dealership is being the opposite of forthcoming.

      Side note: Got the Water Pump settlement today, so getting ~13% of my money back throughout all of this mess. Woot!

    4. Member
      Join Date
      Dec 1st, 2009
      Posts
      3,336
      Cars
      2017 Audi SQ5, 2017 Corvette Grand Sport 7MT, 2010 Audi S4 6MT. 2015 Audi Q3 Quattro
      12-09-2019 02:03 PM #3
      Yes, this code can be set by:
      - a sticking/worn plunger of the oil timing control valve N205.
      - or an oil pressure issue (there is not enough oil pressure for the timing control valve to use to change the cam timing quickly enough), which can be caused by a blown-out cam bridge screen, which gets pushed downstream into an oil passage, that partially blocks the oil flowing to the timing control system. The irony is that this screen is there to protect the cam timing adjustment mechanism from large dirt particles in the oil.....but VW couldn't figure out how to anchor the screen properly. This is a common problem. Most mechanics take the screen out, if it hasn't already broken free.

      Your intake camshaft was probably fine...they just needed to find the broken parts of the screen, and clean them out.
      Last edited by CC'ed; 12-09-2019 at 02:15 PM.

    Posting Permissions

    • You may not post new threads
    • You may not post replies
    • You may not post attachments
    • You may not edit your posts
    •