If you look it up as isofix (euro version of latch) you'll find parts available. I wonder when American cars were all required to have them. I was surprised when the car we got didn't have it.
Also, I imagine most cars, or at least most cars of generally similar overall width, would have a similar seatbelt bolt spacing. If I didn't have 2 car seats in my accord I'd go measure for reference.
Last edited by gotcha640; 10-08-2019 at 11:11 AM.
Originally Posted by Boyz in da Park
Very minor update. I removed all of the existing trailer and tow bar wiring:
I also picked up the Volkswagen 2.0L ABA engine for the swap. It came out of a 2001 Cabrio, has 84,000 miles on it, dealer maintained, and had a timing belt and water pump service performed just prior to removal. This is my friend's car, which is currently undergoing an APF VR6 swap. I already started to tear it down last night, but no pics of that yet.
Here is a picture of it from when I picked it up:
Last edited by Veedubgti; 10-10-2019 at 11:29 AM.
In case anyone is interested, the previous owner of my Samurai is now selling his 1977 Ford Pinto Wagon w/ 47,000 miles. He's very easy to deal with and now fluent in shipping vehicles to other states.
I obtained period correct Thule Load Bars, last night on CL for $60. They came off of an original owner 1985 Volvo 240, with locks and keys, perfect length, no cutting required. Better pics once they are adjusted and the Samurai is outdoors.
Last edited by Veedubgti; 10-25-2019 at 10:34 AM.
You probably already know this, but TFL has a Samurai they've been doing cool stuff with:
Love this build and project, BTW.
Once everything was cleaned up and installed, the back up lights STILL did not come on. I knew it wasn't the fuse, because it is shared with the turn signal lamps, which work fine. I unplugged the back up light switch, put it in reverse, and I did not get continuity across the pins. So I jumped the pins on the other end of the connector, bypassing the switch, and the lights turned right on. A new back up light switch has been ordered.
I suck at embedding video...
Last edited by Veedubgti; 10-28-2019 at 10:14 AM.
Not directly a Samurai related update, but I installed four new LED shop lights in my garage to make working on it way easier. They are called "The BOLT" from Prime Lights, 4 foot strips, 3 bulbs each. It's bright like the sun in there now. So happy I did this. Highly recommended.
Last edited by Veedubgti; 11-06-2019 at 10:07 AM.
Love this thing.
I apologize if this is super obvious, but have you tried tightening your VCG bolts down to kill the leak? 60% of the time, it works all the time. Least it did for me on my 2 current cars.
Also while those baja whatever-they're-called rims are correct, I'd love to see a set of grey steelies and taller, skinny tires on there.
I utilized my new garage lighting for the first time last night and finally fixed the broken windshield washer hose. If you recall....when I first tried to clean my windshield, my feet were unexpectedly sprayed instead. Turns out the hose popped off the washer jet, which connects behind the dash. In order to get my non-Japanese hands in the appropriate location, half the dash had to be removed. The good news is, all is well in Windshield Washerland now.
The factory Suzuki Sidekick 9-hole gray steelies will always hold a special place in my heart. I longed for those for my first Samurai, when I was a kid with no funds. That suggestion is definitely a "maybe".
Surgery is underway!
Last night I started the process of pulling the 1.3L out of the Samurai. I got the engine harness all unplugged and labeled all of the stuff that will be incorporated into the VW 2.0L harness. I also got the Air Conditioning disconnected. Luckily, as I expected, it was completely absent of refrigerant. To keep the engine bay lean, I will not be reusing the AC, so there entire system will be removed. The radiator and fan shroud have been unbolted. Once I drain the coolant, it will be ready to come out, as well.
Up next is the downpipe, clutch cable, and coolant hoses. Everything else after that will need to be disconnected from underneath. I plan to pull the engine and transmission as one unit without removing the nose, we'll see how that goes. Some people say it is no problem, others say the entire front clip should come off.
I can't wait to get this engine bay empty so I can start scrubbing off all of the Texas dirt and grit that accumulated over its 34 year lifespan.
Here's a little photographic evidence to prove that some work has begun...