- 2006 GTI best cold plug to run with tune?
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    1. 07-07-2019 10:39 PM #1
      I have a 2006 GTI FSI and I知 running a franken turbo f23t, Audi s3 injectors, neuspeed coldair intake, 3inch turbo back exhaust, bigger front mount intercooler, autotech hpfp, bsh pcv blockoff plate,Audi R8 coils and a stage 2 custom eurodyne tune I peak at 27psi and taper to about 23-24 but I知 looking to change the spark plugs and I知 trying to figure what is the best and coldest plug to run with a setup like this I知 hoping for some other info too like if I should change the gap or anything like that just want to know if anyone has a similar setup and what plugs they are running.

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    3. Member
      Join Date
      Dec 7th, 2014
      2007 Black B6 ___________ Passat, 2.0T ___________ 2004 Grey Silverado ___________ 1500, 4.8L Z71
      07-11-2019 08:40 PM #2
      Gonna reply with a quote from my build thread and you should be able to determine what to use after reading this:

      Spark Plugs/Coil Packs

      I used NGK BKR7E and BKR7EIX plugs (experimented with gaps @ between 0.026-0.032) up until very recently. I used them while I was on stage 2 tuning with factory turbo and also for some time after I had my GTX2867R setup. I致e recently switched to BKR8E. I知 not going to belabor this subject I think everyone in this community knows by now that if you池e tuned you run 1-step colder plugs and if you池e stage 3 BT (not K04) you may consider running 2-step colder plugs, blah blah. And you should lower the gap on your plugs, blah blah.

      Frankly none of this is, strictly speaking, necessary if you have a good tune and good engine running conditions as-is. A stage 1, stage2, or even K04 equipped VW will not run the risk of overheating even the stock 6-heat range plugs although it is definitely more ideal to run the step colder (7-heat range) plug especially in the case of a K04 setup. You do NOT want to go 2 steps colder unless you池e running a high powered BT setup with a lot of boost and cylinder pressures. The cost of running a plug that is TOO COLD is that deposits will develop and eventually spark strength will suffer. 1 or 2-step colder plugs are just extra icing on the cake to help with the combustion temps as these plugs can resist heat better which will contribute to stronger spark and reduced combustion temps.

      What is probably just as, or more, important to note is something not so many people realize about the spark plug electrode materials used. A lot of people assume that the Iridium plugs are the highest performing since they are by far the most expensive. Not the case. You池e just paying for the fact that iridium is a more expensive rare metal and that these plugs last longer. Copper is actually the strongest conductor out of the 4 plug electrode materials (nickel, platinum, iridium, and of course copper). The NGK plugs ending in 摘 (e.g. BKR8E) are the copper-cored plugs; the ones ending in 的X are the iridium-cored plugs. Both are great. All of the above aspects of choosing plugs for tuned VWs are not obligatory, they are just more or less ideal.

      The story is pretty similar when it comes to the R8 red-top coil packs. These coil packs do technically produce a stronger current (something like 3.3ohms compared to 2.5ohms for stock coils), but this difference is negligible in just about any setup. It would take a much more heavily modified setup than even mine to stand to benefit from this. Otherwise the coil packs are effectively the same. They are no more or less reliable than the NEWEST revision of OEM black-top plugs (but they are much more reliable than the older revisions).
      400BHP / 380CTQ - 2007 B6 Passat 2.0T FSI - Weekend Track Car & Part-time Commuter

      Build Thread / Mod List:

    4. Member ROH ECHT's Avatar
      Join Date
      Dec 9th, 2010
      auf Oregon asphalt
      `07 gti K04'd
      07-12-2019 03:47 PM #3
      Seeking advice from others not having your car is like....

      Why do you seek a different plug?

      The R8 coils you have are a higher than OEM resistance. And why you will need a tighter plug gap with them. Higher resistance produces less intense arc and so if you do not reduce the gap...the arc can easily get disturbed under compression.

      Coil Ohms;
      Stock: 3.3 M ohms
      5 cylinder coils: 4.75 M ohms
      R8's: 5.31 M ohms
      Okadas: 6.2 M ohms

      OEM plugs should work for you but they may need to be adjusted down to 0.025" to 0.028"...and this will depend on a quick plug test. Rev the engine high in "P" or Neutral and hold it there near redline for near ten seconds. Then shut the engine off without letting off of the throttle so to avoid idle. Then immediately remove the plugs to see if they are fuel or carbon soaked, dry and clean, or blistered...and what you see means. Also, learn how to read a plug when doing this and what to look for when removing a new plug after this test...heat range on the strap etc..

      You can also check lambda data and fuel trim. If you notice some cutting out under high boost may need a different plug or gap setting. NGK PFR7B is a very nice plug for when in need of a tight gap. But again, switching plugs is a respondent move to an issue rather than a preparatory move...unless your tuner suggests it due to prior knowledge and much testing.
      Last edited by ROH ECHT; 07-12-2019 at 03:53 PM.

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