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3.6 24V Timing Chains Information Resource Thread BLV/CGRA/BLH Touareg/CC/Passat/Atlas/Q7/Cayenne

96K views 82 replies 14 participants last post by  G60ING 
#1 · (Edited)
Ok so I'm not putting together a step by step timing chain job thread because my projects usually don't follow the same steps as people who need to just fix their timing. Also doing the timing on a 3.6 is complicated job that requires you to separate the engine from the transmission. Some people may chose to pull the engine and transmission while others may prefer to just pull the transmission when touareg people might want to pull the engine. Its really a slippery slope and what needs to be done. Most importantly I want people to understand the process of re-timing the engine. where to get parts and the tools necessary.

The beauty of the 3.6 is that it has remained relatively unchanged since being introduced in 2006. I'm running a 2016 touareg engine on 2006 management.


List of vehicles this might pertain to:
Potential USA 3.6 VR6 Donors
Touareg 2007+
Passat 2006+
CC 2009-2017
Porsche Cayenne 2006+
Audi Q7 2007-2010
Atlas 2018+

Information Links
It should be noted that the Facebook page "VW 2.8 | 2.9 | 3.0 | 3.2 | 3.6 VR6 Performance Group" is useful...sometimes.
Link for looking up VW/Audi Part numbers up: http://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/ or http://7zap.com/en/
jddaigle's B6 3.6 & 4motion Resource Thread
Nater's Head Gasket R&R and DIY 3.6L BLV 2008 Passat https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?7471841-Head-Gasket-R-R-and-DIY-3-6L-BLV-2008-Passat
Nater's 3.6 engine saga: https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5401088-I-spun-a-bearing-(now-with-pics!)

Technical Guides and Manuals

Timing Chain Alignment Procedure for 2008+ engines only difference for 2006-2007 engines is the hpfp alignment tool.

This website has an excellent reference including special tools required, locations of timing marks, and torque values but it has so many pop ups and other crap I HATE IT
Self Study Program for VR6 FSI Engines 2006-2007
Self Study Program for VR6 FSI Engines 2008 looks the same until page 19
2006 Passat Reference Specification Book (torque specs)
2007-2008 Passat Reference Specification Book (torque specs)
2009-2010 CC Quick Reference Specification Book (torque specs)
2011-2012 CC Quick Reference Specification Book (torque specs)
2007-2010 Touareg Quick Reference Specification Book (torque specs)
How to remove the 2piece intake manifold
How to remove the 1piece intake manifold


How can you tell if you need chains/guides/sprockets
Maybe you have a fuel pump check engine light code, a lot of times people will swap high pressure fuel pump, sensors, fuel pump module when it’s really just a timing wear issue.

So check vagcom measuring blocks 208 & 209. If out more than +/- 8* you need to pull the engine and or transmission and replace the chains & guides and should change sprockets and even the hpfp sprocket (it suffers wear on the lobe

Here is what Ross-tech says to check: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17433/P1025/004133


P1025 - Fuel Pressure Regulation Valve (N276): Mechanical Failure
Possible Symptoms
Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) ON
High pitched whining noise from engine when idling.
ECM may also have stored in memory, P0088 - Fuel Rail/System Pressure: Too High.
Possible Causes
When found in 2006 to 2009 Volkswagen Passat, Passat CC and Touareg with 3.6L gasoline engines it is possible the HPFP (High Pressure Fuel Pump) / camshafts are out of time.

Possible Solutions
When found in 2006 to 2009 Volkswagen Passat, Passat CC and Touareg with 3.6L gasoline engines:
Check MVB group [208] and [209] with engine idling, if [8 degrees(+/-)] or more the engine is considered out of time.
NAR (North American Region) users can see VW Tech Tip [01-16-05] for exact repair details.
RoW (Rest of World) users may find TPI 2040216/1 helpful.
When found in gas models with a remote battery such as the Q7, P0088 may be stored due to voltage drop issues. TSB 2025746 applies to the NAR market.


VW Tech Tip [01-16-05]
https://www.dropbox.com/s/4ijtiag9nktc8vr/MC-10096053-0699.pdf?dl=0
 
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#78 ·
I have only ever seen the screen clogged. I am assuming if it gets clogged enough it could break but being ss wouldn't break into small parts but more likely rip/tear. At that point any debris on the screen could come through.

I just run an oring and change the oil religiously every 10 miles or so.
 
#79 ·
#2 · (Edited)
Oil Pump Bolt
Early 3.6L VR6 FSI engines came from the factory with a lower grade oil pump bolt. This bolt could back out, and since the sprocket is driven by the timing chain this could cause the chain to jump time and lead to severe engine damage.

This problem was corrected in the production line for late MY2007 cars and beyond, but if you have a 2006 or 2007 car with a 3.6L VR6 you should assume the bolt is bad and can back out at any time unless you have proof that it has been replaced. Replacement is not difficult but it is labor-intensive due to the bolt’s location. More information can be found:

Oil Pump Bolt Failure Thread.
[URL="https://www.passatworld.com/forums/volkswagen-passat-b6-discussion/327507-3-6-oil-bolt-failure-reference-material.html]Passat World Oil Pump Bolt Failure Thread[/URL]

Proper Oil pump 12.9 bolt part number: Bolt #: N-104-044-04 Its under $2 so just replace it.
 
#3 · (Edited)
Tools

Ross Tech's VAG-Com is my diagnostic tool of choice, I don't know if OBD-eleven can check blocks 208 & 209 for idle stabilization or not. https://store.ross-tech.com/shop/cat/VCDS


T10332 HPFP Sprocket Timing Tool for 2006-2007 engines with the silver intake manifold: https://vw.snapon.com/SpecialToolsDetail.aspx?itemid=34360123


T10363 HPFP Sprocket Timing Tool for 2008+ engines with the Black 2pc intake manifold: https://vw.snapon.com/SpecialToolsDetail.aspx?itemid=22440123


T10068A Cam Locking Bar for 24 Valve VR6 (same tool as used on the R32 and 2.8 24V engines) All 3.6 will need this to lock the cams. Lots of places sell it, I'm a fan of: http://www.metalnerd.com/catalog/product/5378e0ec6f5043dd9d92a4f39e421085
 
#5 · (Edited)
Timing Chain Part Numbers (looked up for a 2006 Passat on 7zap.com verify for your specific engine as they do update parts)
https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/usa/passat/pa/2006-460/1/109-109090/#23


Lower Chain: 03H-109-465 https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vw...MIs67x_tyl4gIVxlmGCh3BOgIrEAkYBCABEgLJ3_D_BwE
Lower rail: 021-109-469
Lower tensioner: 021-109-467
Lower Tensioner Bolt-qty 2 (optional): N90923801
Rear Main Seal: 021-103-051-C

Oil pump Large chain sprocket (optional): 03H-109-569
Oil pump Small chain sprocket (optional): 066-109-570
Oil Pump Sprocket Bolt (mandatory) N10404404

These HPFP sprockets get wear on the roller surface. I'd replace anything over 100k miles if I was in a hurry to reassemble and ordering parts before hand.
HPFP Chain Sprocket Early silver intake manifold car: 03H 109 570
HPFP Chain Sprocket Blk 2pc with vacuum pump cars: 03H 109 570 E

Upper chain: 03H-109-503
Upper SLide rail: 03H 109 513 B
Upper slide rail bolt (optional): N10613901
Chain Tensioner Plastic piece: 03H 109 509
Chain Tensioner: 03H 109 507
Chain Tensioner seal: N0138271
Slide Rail (between cams) : 066109514A
Cam Sprocket/phaser Bolt (optional): N91118001

Cam Sprockets/Phasers are specific to year so look those up if you want to replace them. The teeth do wear.

 
#8 ·
So before I mount my turbo to my cc... I need to replace the chains. I’m about a week away from pulling the engine. Do I need to replace the cam gear? A local VW specialist that I’ve been working with in Seattle told me I need to replace it... it’s a $800 gear. Does it need to be replaced??????


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#9 ·
All depends, on condition of them.

When I did chains on my 103k mile engine I didn’t replace mine. The wear on my chains and guides was minimal. If you car has bad wear and is at 8* then consider it.

That hpfp gear probably need replacement more than the cam gear. The surface that the roller rides takes a beating.

Have vagcom? What’s the idle stabilization fluctuating around?
 
#10 ·
No vag com but I have a really nice scanner. The idle stays around high 600- low 700. The HPFP is getting replaced with a different one to be able to handle 650 HP. I’m still waiting on HPA to respond to my email. I just need the chains dealt with first! Lol I’m at 150k miles and I’ve just noticed a little rattle when I’m accelerating in traffic and I hit about 5500-6200 rpm. Doesn’t rattle on startup or when idling. And what do you mean “is at 8*”?


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#17 ·
Many :beer: to you for starting this thread! Hopefully people will keep contributing or at least finding value in this type of thread for many years to come—especially since the 3.6 just won’t seem to go away! :D I’ll add a link to it in my thread. :thumbup:
 
#23 ·
So after working from 8-5 in the shop to coming home and working on the CC for the past 4 days, just to pull the motor... I know why this is a hefty service bill.. but THE ENGINE IS OUT and ready for chains. My friend who owns a VW tuner shop around the corner knows a place in Canada where I can get a custom head spacer [emoji28]. I think the engine might have to go back in with a turbo. Im pretty sure with bigger injectors and a modest tune I can push 440 without having to replace any moving parts. These engines are powerful under boost and don’t need much.




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#27 ·
Better ask Paul. I'm torn on this subject. You can get the carbon out with a walnut blaster without having to pull the head.

The head is fairly complicated and I there is so many potential areas somebody could screw something up. Decking is good but it changes the timing, that said you are installing a spacer, that too will mess with the timing.

I can't help you other than say chose wisely.

If you were doing port injection the fuel would clean the carbon out.
 
#28 ·
I’ve removed a 2 liter fsi head many times, my trick is buying 5 different colors of nail polish to mark the teeth of things that are in time and take a picture. Only works if it was in time before plus I also have a copy of the Bentley manual. I’m just truly scared because this is my daily and I’ve never worked on a VR before... I’ve already gone 3 weeks without a car killing my pockets because me and gf have to carpool in this terrible Seattle traffic! I’m into the loan for 1 more year and I don’t want another loan. I’m at 154k miles bought last year at 89k Miles. I want to be able to get 250k out of this block and trans before I purchase a new daily! Idk who Paul is what’s his handle or username?


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#29 ·
Hi!

I have run a few different junkyard heads and motors and a few gallons of fuel port injected clean them right up. My current ports are shiny after just a day running methanol.

I would leave the head and media blast it. Dry ice works best but hard to rent. Lots of folks have walnut you can borrow.
 
#34 ·
So one of the guides broke and the pic of the bentley manual I have is for a 2.8 completely different top ends.... I’m about to pack the engine up onto a truck and take it to a shop to get it put back in time... I’ve gone too long without my daily and carpooling is getting too expensive! Can someone shed some light on timing this engine!!


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#36 ·
So one of the guides broke and the pic of the bentley manual I have is for a 2.8 completely different top ends.... I’m about to pack the engine up onto a truck and take it to a shop to get it put back in time... I’ve gone too long without my daily and carpooling is getting too expensive! Can someone shed some light on timing this engine!!


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