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mk1 brakes

1K views 3 replies 2 participants last post by  pistoncams 
#1 ·
Came to this forum looking for help with MK1 rear brake lines, being most 8V are MK1 folks. If a better forum let me know.

Is there a trick on getting the "C" clip off rubber brake line on top of axle into metal line that runs down to rear wheel cylinder. Rubber is like rock and metal is very rusty. Do I need to drop axle to get to it? 30 year old cabby "1989" just waiting for brakes to go out, so wanting to change.

Hope for a trick on getting "C" off. Thank guys, pistoncams
 
#2 · (Edited)
I could be wrong because it has been awhile since I have taken one off.

The best way to get those lines is to drop the axle down. If you do have new hoses, I would cut the old hoses off. This will allow more access to get the wrenches in. The spring clip that holds the line to the axle cannot come off unless the line is taken off. It is not a 'C' like I think you think it is.

If you round any of the brake lines, you are SOL. If you think those Harbor Freight line wrenches will help you, you are wrong. If you round the lines off AND have already cut the hoses, you are really SOL. You need a good quality brake line wrench [Snap on, Matco, Mac, etc] and make damn certain the wrenches are fully seated. If there is any indication that it is starting to round off, you need to take a different approach to what you are doing. Again, once you round that line off and you do not have the tools/fitting to install a new one, then you are SOL.

That said, I've never had an issue. I live in a portion of the USA that does not have a rust issue. If you do, I believe you are doomed to failure. I would think twice about doing it if there is a lot of rust. I have heard that the studs that hold the axle can break. If that occurs, you better have a good welder to fix it.

Try this link out, it has better pictures than my words.
https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?5026299-1981-vw-Rabbit-rear-brake-line-hose-removal

One thing about the brake system, it does not like oil based products. Using WD40 or any other type of penetrating oil will ruin the rubber in a brakes system real quick. If you have to use it, it needs to be cleaned up real good or else you will have other issues in the future.
 
#3 ·
Brake lines

Thanks a lot for in put. I just did driver front and now understand it is no a c clip but more of a spacer. Putting SS brake lines on. Rust is no to bad. Car has about 100k miles and I have had it for last 14 years inside. Soaking with PB brake. I will clean up well to get oil off after your tip. Axle bolts don't look that bad. I have dropped a number of axles before, just lazy. It getting axle back up thats the pain. Heading back to garage to do back.

Thanks a lot of reply.
 
#4 ·
finished lines

Thanks for input on rear rubber brake line replacement above axle and specially the pictures. This is for the next guy who may read this.

I did as you said and dropped axle. I have no rust issues and all connection came apart easy. The "C" clip is not a clip but acts as a spring. Brake line run through center of it. I did not put C spring back on because new SS line was bigger and filled axle hole. It did not need it to stop vibration above axle.

Steps, drop axle, bolts 17 mm, leaving shock in place, cut rubber lines, putting 14mm socket on rubber side and 11 mm line wrench on opposite side. To replace, I took brake line off from wheel cylinder to get it threaded to new SS flexible line, fitting metal line through axle hole first, rethreading into wheel cylinder, then bending metal tab over line in middle. I next threaded SS line in place using C spring at that connection to line that runs to master cylinder. Using floor jack to lift axle back in place replacing the 4 bolts. It took about four hours to complete both sides. I could cut an hour off if I did it again.

Brake petal feels more firm. I am ready for spring driving and sure of my brake system after up dating it and inspecting it. Again thank for in put, it was very helpful.
 
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