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8v with bike carbs g60 bottom camshaft suggestion please

3K views 34 replies 3 participants last post by  Butcher 
#1 ·
Hi all,
Posted this in carbs too, as i didnt know where id get more advice:
need advice on what lift/duration to go with on this set up.Any thoughts would be appreciated ,
thanks
Dave
 
#3 ·
This is what I got to work with 8:1 and I’m using 4-1 header Would like to have biggest cam possible as it’s a weekend summer car
Thank you !
what power you after? and are you modifying anything else? will your compression not be a bit low to start with<img src="http://www.vwvortex.com/Anthony/Smilies/confused.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Confused" class="inlineimg" />
 
#4 ·
I was young awhile ago and back then, I would get the largest one that would allow for the most HP. Now, I would recommend something that would run well all the mid-range. That is where you will be most of the time and a lumpy idle that you cannot tune gets old fast.

The PG engine is really low on compression but I understand that is what you got.
 
#7 ·
sorry, but this doesn't make sense to me<img src="http://www.vwvortex.com/Anthony/Smilies/confused.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Confused" class="inlineimg" /> you have 8-1 cr and you want to run a wild cam<img src="http://www.vwvortex.com/Anthony/Smilies/sly.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Sly"

class="inlineimg" />
Well that what I got
Can I get longer rods to fit g60 crank and my Wossner 22mm pistons ?
 
#11 ·
I would be looking for at least 9.5-1 cr with a 4-1 header and fancy cam. but in saying that. I have a mk2 golf gti digi with a 15" skimmed head and schrick 268 cam and the bugger pinks quite often after i'm sat in traffic and pull away. only hear it for about half a second though. but it makes me wonder if the ecu is pulling the timing quicker than it's putting it back. which would kill my mpg's. modern fuel is probably guff anyway:laugh:
 
#12 ·
It’s 136mm and 22mm small end
I would need longer rod with 22mm end to raise comp



UOTE=garryt;113103983]I would be looking for at least 9.5-1 cr with a 4-1 header and fancy cam. but in saying that. I have a mk2 golf gti digi with a 15" skimmed head and schrick 268 cam and the bugger pinks quite often after i'm sat in traffic and pull away. only hear it for about half a second though. but it makes me wonder if the ecu is pulling the timing quicker than it's putting it back. which would kill my mpg's. modern fuel is probably guff anyway<img src="http://www.vwvortex.com/Anthony/Smilies/biggrin_upper.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Big Grin Animated" class="inlineimg" />[/QUOTE]
 
#14 ·
[my Wossners are for the g60 pg block QUOTE=garryt;113104001]but which engine were your wossner pistons designed for? you said you had wossner pistons, but you never said what they were for<img src="http://www.vwvortex.com/Anthony/Smilies/sly.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Sly" class="inlineimg" />[/QUOTE]
 
#17 ·
Ok my rods are stock g60 go rods from Corrado .
They’re redone and fitted with ARP studs .
Pistons are Wossners 82mm bore ,so up 1mm from stock .
If you all say I need to raise comp to run big camshaft efficiently I need to know what longer rods that have 22mm pin ends I can drop in to use and raise compression back to at least 9:1!?
As far as I read my stock rods are forged at 136mm length and 22 mm small end pin .
Thanks !




i'm not sure what that last message you posted is. can't make much sense of it. there is hyphens and forward slachs everywhere. i'm to pissed to even spell slach<img src="http://www.vwvortex.com/Anthony/Smilies/biggrin_upper.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Big Grin Animated" class="inlineimg" />
 
#20 ·
Thank you Sir




QUOTE=garryt;113104039]we shall get back to it when i'm wiser and i'm older<img src="http://www.vwvortex.com/Anthony/Smilies/thumbup.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Thumb Up" class="inlineimg" /> avicii going to listen now before I sleep.[/QUOTE]
 
#22 ·
Really would love to just find a set of longer rods as the German block is better in my opinion.
So would just love to se what rods I can get and start this build .
That’s all I’m waiting on to start it building





if you have wossner pistons for a g60 engine, and you want to build an n/a. you might want to consider selling the wossners and using the money to buy an 1800 gti block<img src="http://www.vwvortex.com/Anthony/Smilies/wink.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Wink" class="inlineimg" /> you might have a few coins leftover too<img src="http://www.vwvortex.com/Anthony/Smilies/thumbup.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Thumb Up" class="inlineimg" />
 
#25 ·
Basically a PG [G60 engine] block is a regular 8V block with pistons oilers. The pistons were made for forced induction and had 136mm rods. You could pitch those rods/pistons and get something that fits most 8V engines. Most [I would say all but the PG engine] had 144mm rods. Most blocks were bored [incl PG] to 86.4mm from the factory. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volkswagen_EA827_engine

As for a hot rod low compression engine, that is what we had back in the late 70's/early 80's. If any engine had 9 to 1 compression, it truly was a hot rod. Now, 10 to 1 is low. You could do everything to that low compression engine and be fine.

Here is a chart that can show you what extra efficiency you will get raising the compression. http://victorylibrary.com/brit/compression-c.htm
 
#26 ·
Thank you for that !It looks to be that I cannot find longer than 136mm rods woth 22mm wrist pin size ?
Looks to be all 20mm which is the 8v engines used .
If anyone could point me in direction of piston rods I could use with my Wossners
Would be appreciated
I’d be happy I think just going to 9:1 instead of 8:1 now.






QUOTE=Butcher;113104795]Basically a PG [G60 engine] block is a regular 8V block with pistons oilers. The pistons were made for forced induction and had 136mm rods. You could pitch those rods/pistons and get something that fits most 8V engines. Most [I would say all but the PG engine] had 144mm rods. Most blocks were bored [incl PG] to 86.4mm from the factory. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volkswagen_EA827_engine

As for a hot rod low compression engine, that is what we had back in the late 70's/early 80's. If any engine had 9 to 1 compression, it truly was a hot rod. Now, 10 to 1 is low. You could do everything to that low compression engine and be fine.

Here is a chart that can show you what extra efficiency you will get raising the compression. http://victorylibrary.com/brit/compression-c.htm[/QUOTE]
 
#28 ·
thanks for all the replies ! So my question is where to find longer than stock rods,to bump CR back up in my build.Spent a ton on Wossner 82mm bore 22mm pin pistons,and the block to be bored and cleaned .
My only option is to keep all that but as you all suggested to go to a longer rod with 22mm small end.All i ca nfind is rods that may be from a 3a MK7 1.8 T or Audi equivalent ? If thats the one people use ,i just need to know.
Much apprecate the help,
thanks
 
#29 · (Edited)
You seem to be mixed up on the basics of how an engine runs.

The pistons you have match the rods you have. There is no rods that will raise the compression. If you get the 144 rods [which may fit if you get the right wrist pin bushing], the pistons you have will go above the block around 8mm [144-136=8]. That will not work since two objects cannot be in the same space at the same time. The cylinder head already occupies that space.

The choice you have is to find a different project or different piston/rod combination. You could always sell the new pistons you got, but that may lead you to another machine shop bill if you had the bore match your pistons.

This is why all those questions need to answered before you start buying parts.

One other tip, stick with engine parts that are in the same engine family. That is why I posted the wiki page. It certainly is easier than going to other engines and swapping parts. It can be done, but there is more risk of other issues.
 
#30 ·
Well thanks for that .Feel like a dumbass as my blonde moment logic dictated and forgotten the fact that pistons travel all the way to top of block bore .
Thanks for waking me up .
So now I’m stuck .Is shaving the head a possibility to raise comp on g60?
If not I’m off to selling the block and pistons and all .








You seem to be mixed up on the basics of how an engine runs.

The pistons you have match the rods you have. There is no rods that will raise the compression. If you get the 144 rods [which may fit if you get the right wrist pin bushing], the pistons you have will go above the block around 8mm [144-136=8]. That will not work.

The choice you have is to find a different project or different piston/rod combination. You could always sell the new pistons you got, but that may lead you to another machine shop bill if you had the bore match your pistons.

This is why all those questions need to answered before you start buying parts.

One other tip, stick with engine parts that are in the same engine family. That is why I posted the wiki page. It certainly is easier than going to other engines and swapping parts. It can be done, but there is more risk of other issues.
 
#31 ·
You could, I would talk to the machinist and see what they think. There are factory specs and internet specs. Rarely do they match. If you do shave the head, make certain you get an adjustable cam pulley to get your cam timing right.

Your engine still could run, it just will not be as efficient as it could be. It will run great too. You may be off 10-15hp but that would be about it.

You could find some 144mm rod/piston combination fairly cheap. The 2H engine had 10-1 compression.

How much would you sell what you got? Where are you located?
 
#32 ·
Columbus ,Ohio
Have ton of stuff ,2 g60 compressors ,
G60 Block all done at 82mm and Wossners etc.
I do have the “untouched “ 85 GTI 8v motor that is out of my MK2 so I may just rebuild that .Had only 80k on it .
You can text me 614271onetwo81
Thanks for the help !
 
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