While I'm waiting for 3d-printed nylon spacer, started doing head
Water outlet also must be solved as new inlet manifold / carb does not have water inlets, but cylinderhead has hole where comes heating for carb. I'll tap threads in it, but should I block it or put flow straight past carb....
That is not for coolant. I believe that is for the air for the injectors [air shroud fuel injectors]. It would be simple to check where that port goes to.
It IS for coolant. Does not show much but there's one L shaped water hose coming from original inlet manifold (goes through to manifold to that hole and o-ring in manifold seals it):
However I didn't remember my new manifold actually has water channel (not direct fit to head though but via barb fittings), so I'm going to use it.
Did some port matching today. Exhaust has lot of material to remove.
The USA never got a lot of carburetors and the CIS had air shroud injectors. So on an injected head, that would be an air port. I will check my head in the shop sometime soon to make certain I do not have my head up my as*.
I’m a little late to the party, but I ran a 3A with a JH head. This was about 20 years ago, but I’m 99.9% sure I ran the stock 1.8 distributor, with no adapter ring. I remember it was a very tight fit, and I needed to sand the aluminum distributor, to make timing adjustments possible.
I think that TT adapter ring is for the ABA block. I’m actually in the middle of a ABA/JH swap, and have that, along with the brother block off plate. You’ll also need to make a block off plate for the 3A, to mount the cpr.
Like others said, measure the block hole and compare it to the distributor base.
The bigger the cam you run, the less you’ll need to worry about the compression ratio and pinging.... run the highest octane gas or get a knock sensor ignition box.
I’m planning on running an old Schrick 280° or TT 288°, which is a Schrick copy.... both of these are on a shelf in my shed, but I never ran the 288°. I just spoke to Collin at TT, and he said to install the 288°, “just to experience it”, lol. He said it’ll make power to 8,000 rpm.
Just because I think PVC is a terrible idea, does not make it so. There may be other plastics that may work for that situation, but I'm not a plastic engineer.
I think it is worth posting your PVC idea on other sites and see what the response is. Who knows it may be a great idea.
Where can I get distributor sprocket that works with 2.0 8v intermediate shaft? Or tell me how to remove it from 3A 2.0 8v distributor. I have heated and hammered but no luck.
1.8 8v dist has too small sprocket, it wont reach shaft when using adapter in hole.
Now I need sensors/switches (full throttle [F81] and closed throttle [F60]) for knock sensor control unit (811907397E). Like old K(E)-jet engines in mk2 golf or Audi 80 (NG etc) had.
I have Golf mk3 2E 2.0 8V intake manifold + throttle body. TPS sensor has only 3 pins. Is there compatible TPS which has maybe idle switch but also WOT switch? Found NISSAN Tps but its very bulky and strange connectors, and not compatible axle.
Am I correct 93-95 ABA has idle switch in TPS ?
Is ABA TPS compatible to 2E throttle body? or Can I fit whole ABA throttle body?
I think im going with 078133154 from Audi A6 C4 V6. Small enough and it has potentiometer and idle switch in same device. WOT switch I'm using from Audi 90 2.3 NG and put it near to throttle cable bracket.
I need potentiometer for Ecumaster Det3+ (controller for injectors)
edit:
fits like a glove. shaft needed little extension.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Ask a question
Ask a question
VW Vortex - Volkswagen Forum
84.4M posts
1.5M members
Since 2001
A forum community dedicated to all Volkswagen owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, builds, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, new releases, and more!