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    1. Member eurolicious's Avatar
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      11-12-2018 11:29 AM #1
      Have been gone from the forum for a while.

      Still own a MKIV Wagon and have the 2007 2.0t EOS as a daily.

      So I am having a real hard time figuring out what is going on. The EOS is lowered on FK Streetlines, upper strut mounts were done at time of install along with new ball joints. Brakes were done all the way around as well and rotors are new and straight. Car is on 19x8.5 et32 Audi A7 wheels (hub centering rings are on). Tires are new Nitto Neogen 215/35/ZR19 85W. Car was aligned 2 times after suspension install and wheels were balanced 3 times as well.

      I just did both axles since the car was shaking real bad. Even after the install the car still shakes and vibrates.

      Motor mounts have not been done yet, but I am not sure if that could be the problem.

      The shaking seems to be the same as if I had a bad inner axle joint. Whether I have the foot on the accelerator or not it shakes about the same.

      On my MKIV I have motor mount spacers and also have the inner axle cups notched to avoid the axle binding.

      I know very little about the MKV platform so perhaps someone that has lowered one of these could help?

      Are the motor mount spacers for the MKV platform? Do people suffer from axle bind?

      Thank you in advance!

      EOS:



      Jetta:




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      Last edited by eurolicious; 12-28-2018 at 09:22 PM.

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    3. Member
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      11-12-2018 10:32 PM #2
      Did you check the wheel bearings?

      You say this happens at all speeds... does that mean ALL speeds or above XX mph? Does the shaking/vibrating frequency change with speed?
      Do you feel the shaking more in the steering wheel, or in the chassis (through your butt or foot).

      I don't think it's motor or transmission mounts from what you wrote, but it's hard to diagnose this type of issue over a computer. FWIW I haven't heard about axle bind being an issue, but I'm not into the "low & slow" scene If that was a prevalent issue there would be a lot of information about it on the EOS forums... I think...

    4. Member eurolicious's Avatar
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      11-14-2018 07:36 PM #3
      Quote Originally Posted by Chaoscreature80 View Post
      Did you check the wheel bearings?

      You say this happens at all speeds... does that mean ALL speeds or above XX mph? Does the shaking/vibrating frequency change with speed?
      Do you feel the shaking more in the steering wheel, or in the chassis (through your butt or foot).

      I don't think it's motor or transmission mounts from what you wrote, but it's hard to diagnose this type of issue over a computer. FWIW I haven't heard about axle bind being an issue, but I'm not into the "low & slow" scene If that was a prevalent issue there would be a lot of information about it on the EOS forums... I think...
      Thank you for taking he time to answer!

      I did not check the bearings (need to figure out how to do that).

      Sorry for that, yes it is shaking at all speeds (rotational feel to the shaking) but it the shaking gets worse with the higher speeds.

      I feel the shaking on the steering wheel at first (low speeds 20-40mph), then also starts to shake the floorboard at my heals (medium speeds 40-60mph) and lastly it starts to shake both areas above as well as the seats (higher speeds 60-85mph).

      The shaking happens driving straight or in curves.

      I though mounts perhaps thinking that the angle of being low plus a sagging engine could help that axle working at a weird angle, but you may be right and then not be it (need to have someone rev the car to check for that engine play).

      Also makes me think it is not axle bind since when you turn you “pull” the inner joint outwards in the inner cup making the shaft not rub on the tripod joint bearing grooves, releasing pressure on the inner joint making the shaking stop.






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    6. Member
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      11-14-2018 08:54 PM #4
      I did not check the bearings (need to figure out how to do that).
      While not scientific by any means: Try grabbing one of the front tires, with your hands on the left/right sides of the tire. Try to turn the tire to the left/right as hard as you can. Listen and feel for any kind of clunking or something loose. This basically checks the steering components.
      Now try grabbing the same tire, but this time at the top of the tire. Push in/out like you want to knock rock the tire off the car. Again, listen for anything that clunks or clanks. The WHEEL should not really move at all (the tire will flex a bit). This is the old school way of checking bearings.

      Another thing you can do is lay under the car and watch the suspension linkages will someone turns the steering wheel. Have someone drive the car slowly in a parking lot while you walk next to it and listen for grinding, thumping or clicking.


      Good Luck!!!

    7. Member eurolicious's Avatar
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      11-26-2018 11:45 PM #5
      Quote Originally Posted by Chaoscreature80 View Post
      While not scientific by any means: Try grabbing one of the front tires, with your hands on the left/right sides of the tire. Try to turn the tire to the left/right as hard as you can. Listen and feel for any kind of clunking or something loose. This basically checks the steering components.
      Now try grabbing the same tire, but this time at the top of the tire. Push in/out like you want to knock rock the tire off the car. Again, listen for anything that clunks or clanks. The WHEEL should not really move at all (the tire will flex a bit). This is the old school way of checking bearings.

      Another thing you can do is lay under the car and watch the suspension linkages will someone turns the steering wheel. Have someone drive the car slowly in a parking lot while you walk next to it and listen for grinding, thumping or clicking.


      Good Luck!!!
      Before anything thank you!

      Took your advice and did check the front and there was a little play.

      I went ahead and replaced them.

      It made it a 25% better but unfortunately the vibration is still there now from 60mph on out.

      New bearings in:





      New axles that I installed:



      I will be replacing the rears now to make sure the vibration is not coming from the rear for some crazy reason.

      I still feel the vibration on the steering wheel pretty hard at around 80mph.

      So I am getting motor mounts to go along with the rear wheel bearings.

      One other thing I am seriously thinking of doing is going back to OEM rotors and pads and ditching the cross drilled slotted rotors as maybe they may have warped (only God knows at this point).

      Will also send the car in to get aligned and balanced one more time before the warranty runs out on the alignment and balancing.

      Fingers crossed and will keep everyone posted.


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    8. Member
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      11-28-2018 08:47 PM #6
      I will be replacing the rears now to make sure the vibration is not coming from the rear for some crazy reason.

      I still feel the vibration on the steering wheel pretty hard at around 80mph.

      So I am getting motor mounts to go along with the rear wheel bearings.

      One other thing I am seriously thinking of doing is going back to OEM rotors and pads and ditching the cross drilled slotted rotors as maybe they may have warped (only God knows at this point).

      Will also send the car in to get aligned and balanced one more time before the warranty runs out on the alignment and balancing.

      Fingers crossed and will keep everyone posted.
      Sorry for the delay in responding.
      Before you go swapping motor mounts etc, I would try the front control arm bushings. When those start going bad they tend to cause some of the higher speed vibrations and weirdness like "floaty" steering at high speed.
      I seriously doubt your rotors are causing the issue... you would have noticed that the day you installed them UNLESS you think you warped the crap out of them (HIGHLY unlikely).

    9. 11-29-2018 10:33 AM #7
      Have you ever thought the tires are bad. Do you have another set that you can switch with. Although vibrations are hard to narrow down, more often that not, tires are the cause.

      Vibrations are normally caused by a balance. I have read the thread and I have a tough time believing that it vibrates at all speeds. Vibration at all speeds is caused by something that is bent [ie wheels]. Usually at higher speeds, a bent wheel is not a noticeable.

      I used to be an ex-Shop Foreman for 20+ years and vibrations are resolved with common sense and sound principles. You seem to be going all over the place.

    10. Member eurolicious's Avatar
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      12-26-2018 03:26 PM #8
      Quote Originally Posted by Butcher View Post
      Have you ever thought the tires are bad. Do you have another set that you can switch with. Although vibrations are hard to narrow down, more often that not, tires are the cause.

      Vibrations are normally caused by a balance. I have read the thread and I have a tough time believing that it vibrates at all speeds. Vibration at all speeds is caused by something that is bent [ie wheels]. Usually at higher speeds, a bent wheel is not a noticeable.

      I used to be an ex-Shop Foreman for 20+ years and vibrations are resolved with common sense and sound principles. You seem to be going all over the place.
      Hey Butcher,

      Took a trip for a while to get away from the car and came back more willing than ever to fix it

      I completely agree that something is out of balance.

      The weir thing is that the tires were on my brother's wheels which were brand new (wheels and tires both). He did not like the size so i ordered tires for him and grabbed these. When i took the tires to be mounted they balanced everything and i asked them to make sure the wheels were not bent, they told me no and that the tires were good.

      I will do that again now in order to cross that off the list once more.

      another thing that i agree with you is that if a wheel is bent the faster you go the less you notice it and with this vibration and shaking I feel it gets worse with speed.

      After the new hub bearing assemblies on the front the shaking got better at lower speeds but it is still there after 60mph and on (gets worse the faster you go).

      I will take your advice and send the wheels to get rebalanced and will ask them again to check if they are now bent/warped.

      I also have a feeling that the rotors i installed are warped as well.

      So once i remove the wheels to do the rear hub assemblies i will install new rotors in the back. Also go ahead and install them in the front and have the wheels balance while they are off the car.

      Hopefully all this fixes it.

      I really like the car just annoyed at it at the moment.

      Thank you again for your help!
      Last edited by eurolicious; 12-26-2018 at 03:31 PM.

    11. Member eurolicious's Avatar
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      12-28-2018 09:20 PM #9
      Got some new parts today:

      • Front Rotors
      • Larger passat subframe bushings to get rid of the clunking
      • Rear rotors
      • Rear hub/bearing assemblies


      iI was noticing a good amount of brake dust on the rear wheels even though i had installed the ceramic pads a few months back.

      I got done with replacing the rear driver side hub/bearing assembly and rotors, but i did notice the pads were pretty well worn but had 1/2 life still on them.







      After wrapping up the driver side i went to the passenger rear and once i saw the pads I realized the reason for all the brake dust.

      Seems as if my passenger side caliper is seized closed or it is not retracting like it should. The driver side is also somewhat faulty but nowhere near as bad.

      Pictures of the pads (Left is passenger side pads / Right is driver side pads):




      So now i will grab new pads tomorrow until i can get a pair of rear calipers to install.

      Front will have to wait until the morning as well.
      Last edited by eurolicious; 12-28-2018 at 09:27 PM.

    12. Member
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      01-03-2019 10:15 PM #10
      You are going to have a new car by the time you are done with this!
      Looking good
      Let us know if the brakes solved your issues

    13. Member
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      08-18-2019 02:24 PM #11
      So was the issue ever resolved? I was thinking worn out shocks, kind of surprised no one even considered that possibility as it is a far more common failure item than half the other parts he already replaced and will cause these exact symptoms.
      2017 Golf R DSG, JB4, IE DP, Magic IC, K&N, BMS pedal tuner, GC coil overs 475/550, Modified O34 dynamic mount, white line LCA, Eurocode front/rear sway bars w adjustable links, Tyrol dead set, Eurocode front strut bar, Super pro rear bushings with spherical adjustable toe link, Konig Rennform 18x9 w 255/35 MP4S

    14. 09-11-2019 02:55 AM #12
      In which store i can buy it?

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