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    1. Member steelgatorb8's Avatar
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      05-16-2018 04:51 PM #51
      Quote Originally Posted by puma1552 View Post
      I did email McKee's and ask if they recommended one coat or two, they said just one but I'm not sure about that. Kinda hard for me not to do two.
      Seems like an honest response given their ability to say "unlimited" just in the name of moving more product.

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      05-16-2018 06:32 PM #52
      Thanks steelgatorb8 Hoping I can skip the claying as well... the paint on this doesn't look that bad.

    4. 05-16-2018 09:09 PM #53
      Quote Originally Posted by steelgatorb8 View Post
      Seems like an honest response given their ability to say "unlimited" just in the name of moving more product.
      I agree, it's hard to imagine one coat being all I need for a year's worth of protection (they advertise two). Big change from multiple coats of glaze sealant and wax.

    5. Member Yuppie Scum's Avatar
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      05-16-2018 09:59 PM #54
      Edit: thereís a better post for this

    6. Member steelgatorb8's Avatar
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      05-17-2018 11:50 AM #55
      Quote Originally Posted by puma1552 View Post
      I agree, it's hard to imagine one coat being all I need for a year's worth of protection (they advertise two). Big change from multiple coats of glaze sealant and wax.
      Please let us know how the McKee's stuff works for you. I'm looking at McKee's vs Cquartz UK 3.0. Just like the new version of McKee's, the Cquartz UK 3.0 formula is supposedly easier to work with.

    7. Member pdqgp's Avatar
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      05-17-2018 06:48 PM #56
      Quote Originally Posted by steelgatorb8 View Post
      Please let us know how the McKee's stuff works for you. I'm looking at McKee's vs Cquartz UK 3.0. Just like the new version of McKee's, the Cquartz UK 3.0 formula is supposedly easier to work with.
      I use McKee's 37 regularly. It's solid product. I had it on my Audi S4 for nearly 2 years. Year 1 was version one of their coating. Year 2 was version 2. It's on-par with Cquartz. Like the original UK it is thicker and little more of PIA to wipe off but it's not difficult. UK3.0 is much easier. McKee's is slightly slicker once cured but UK Can be topped with Gliss.

      I offer McKee's as my base coating, Cquartz as my next step up with Gliss as and add-on topper for Cquartz. The one I like most is Geyon Syncro which is 2-3 layers of Geyon Mohs with their topper called Skin. It's by far the most hydrophobic of all of the products I have access to and use. Love it. I'll be redoing my Q50 with it soon. Currently it's topped with CQUK v2 and Gliss. Works well but no where near Syncro.
      Last edited by pdqgp; 05-17-2018 at 06:50 PM.
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    8. Member steelgatorb8's Avatar
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      05-17-2018 07:46 PM #57
      Quote Originally Posted by pdqgp View Post
      I use McKee's 37 regularly. It's solid product. I had it on my Audi S4 for nearly 2 years. Year 1 was version one of their coating. Year 2 was version 2. It's on-par with Cquartz. Like the original UK it is thicker and little more of PIA to wipe off but it's not difficult. UK3.0 is much easier. McKee's is slightly slicker once cured but UK Can be topped with Gliss.

      I offer McKee's as my base coating, Cquartz as my next step up with Gliss as and add-on topper for Cquartz. The one I like most is Geyon Syncro which is 2-3 layers of Geyon Mohs with their topper called Skin. It's by far the most hydrophobic of all of the products I have access to and use. Love it. I'll be redoing my Q50 with it soon. Currently it's topped with CQUK v2 and Gliss. Works well but no where near Syncro.
      Funny you should mention Gyeon Syncro as I just saw that during my research. Clearly a bit more of an expensive option but seems to work very well. I recognized your Q50 in your post about syncro on the MKC on autopia!


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    9. Member pdqgp's Avatar
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      05-17-2018 09:23 PM #58
      Quote Originally Posted by steelgatorb8 View Post
      Funny you should mention Gyeon Syncro as I just saw that during my research. Clearly a bit more of an expensive option but seems to work very well. I recognized your Q50 in your post about syncro on the MKC on autopia!


      I'm on a few of the detailing forums. Screen name on Autogeek is different but I'm not hard to find.
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    10. Member Ambrose Wolfinger's Avatar
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      05-17-2018 11:41 PM #59
      I just applied a coating myself for the first time yesterday. You can see pictures and discussion here: https://www.autopia.org/forums/car-d...ults-post.html

      A local detailer gave me a bottle of Gtechniq Exo (for which I was very grateful!). It came out ok, but there is some streaking across panels where I didnít level it out evenly enough. I guess it isnít horrible, but it bugs me a little as it was all user error. Iím told it isnít a very forgiving product to work with. Whatís odd is that most of the streaking I see is on two panels. I couldíve sworn I saw some on the hood yesterday, but it looked fantastic today.

      Iíd like to re do a couple panels over the summer. My concern now is how to remove it, without screwing up the paint, as a simple clay bar or finishing polish wonít work. Someone else suggested compound with a MF cutting pad, folllowied by a finishing polish on a softer poslishing pad. Is this a good idea? Is there a best way to strip the coating if you feel the need to re apply it,

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      05-17-2018 11:47 PM #60
      Quote Originally Posted by Ambrose Wolfinger View Post
      I just applied a coating myself for the first time yesterday. You can see pictures and discussion here: https://www.autopia.org/forums/car-d...ults-post.html

      A local detailer gave me a bottle of Gtechniq Exo (for which I was very grateful!). It came out ok, but there is some streaking across panels where I didnít level it out evenly enough. I guess it isnít horrible, but it bugs me a little as it was all user error. Iím told it isnít a very forgiving product to work with. Whatís odd is that most of the streaking I see is on two panels. I couldíve sworn I saw some on the hood yesterday, but it looked fantastic today.

      Iíd like to re do a couple panels over the summer. My concern now is how to remove it, without screwing up the paint, as a simple clay bar or finishing polish wonít work. Someone else suggested compound with a MF cutting pad, folllowied by a finishing polish on a softer poslishing pad. Is this a good idea? Is there a best way to strip the coating if you feel the need to re apply it,
      Polishing (the old school way) is technically stripping the clear coat, so I see no reason why that isn't the answer to stripping / re-applying the ceramic coating. In fact, I'm 90% sure that's practically the only way to fix most ceramic coatings (physical abrasion).
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    12. Member Ambrose Wolfinger's Avatar
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      05-17-2018 11:51 PM #61
      Quote Originally Posted by iliveoncaffiene View Post
      Polishing (the old school way) is technically stripping the clear coat, so I see no reason why that isn't the answer to stripping / re-applying the ceramic coating. In fact, I'm 90% sure that's practically the only way to fix most ceramic coatings (physical abrasion).
      Youíre right. Maybe Iím overthinking it. Iím just not entirely sure how to tell if itís fully removed. My first thought is to use a compound, then polish, and finish with a panel wipe.

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      05-18-2018 03:18 AM #62
      Quote Originally Posted by Ambrose Wolfinger View Post
      My concern now is how to remove it, without screwing up the paint, as a simple clay bar or finishing polish wonít work. Someone else suggested compound with a MF cutting pad, folllowied by a finishing polish on a softer poslishing pad. Is this a good idea? Is there a best way to strip the coating if you feel the need to re apply it,
      I was able to remove Gtechniq Exo streaks with some Meguiar's 105 and an orange pad. It's not difficult at all.

    14. Member pdqgp's Avatar
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      05-18-2018 07:22 AM #63
      Quote Originally Posted by Ambrose Wolfinger View Post
      I just applied a coating myself for the first time yesterday. You can see pictures and discussion here: https://www.autopia.org/forums/car-d...ults-post.html

      A local detailer gave me a bottle of Gtechniq Exo (for which I was very grateful!). It came out ok, but there is some streaking across panels where I didnít level it out evenly enough. I guess it isnít horrible, but it bugs me a little as it was all user error. Iím told it isnít a very forgiving product to work with. Whatís odd is that most of the streaking I see is on two panels. I couldíve sworn I saw some on the hood yesterday, but it looked fantastic today.

      Iíd like to re do a couple panels over the summer. My concern now is how to remove it, without screwing up the paint, as a simple clay bar or finishing polish wonít work. Someone else suggested compound with a MF cutting pad, folllowied by a finishing polish on a softer poslishing pad. Is this a good idea? Is there a best way to strip the coating if you feel the need to re apply it,
      I saw your post. All you need is a white polishing pad and good polish. It won't take much. Coatings are durable but they are no match for a buffer, pad and polish. Once done do an IPA or better yet a wipe down with something like CarPro Eraser and then re-apply. There's zero need for a compound. I can't tell you how many times I've seen people use compounds when they aren't necessary. Just more work for nothing.

      Anyone looking to move into the use of a coating for the first time will do themselves a favor by trying the newer Geyon Mohs product. It's among the easiest to use of the consumer products out there and it's very good product. Layer on 2-3 coats and you'll have a 9H hardness with wonderful hydrophobic properties.
      Last edited by pdqgp; 05-18-2018 at 07:25 AM.
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    15. Member Ambrose Wolfinger's Avatar
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      05-18-2018 09:26 AM #64
      Interesting, someone else suggested compound and a MF pad. I guess if I'm working with a PC I needn't worry about paint damage.

      But, is there a way to confirm visually that it's all been removed?
      Quote Originally Posted by pdqgp View Post
      I saw your post. All you need is a white polishing pad and good polish. It won't take much. Coatings are durable but they are no match for a buffer, pad and polish. Once done do an IPA or better yet a wipe down with something like CarPro Eraser and then re-apply. There's zero need for a compound. I can't tell you how many times I've seen people use compounds when they aren't necessary. Just more work for nothing.

      Anyone looking to move into the use of a coating for the first time will do themselves a favor by trying the newer Geyon Mohs product. It's among the easiest to use of the consumer products out there and it's very good product. Layer on 2-3 coats and you'll have a 9H hardness with wonderful hydrophobic properties.

    16. Member Ambrose Wolfinger's Avatar
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      05-18-2018 09:28 AM #65
      I was hoping to remove the streaks without removing the coating, but it sounds like a do over is the only way, not that I'm opposed to it. I tried lightly hand polishing a couple spots, but you can still tell the coating isn't even.
      Quote Originally Posted by proximal View Post
      I was able to remove Gtechniq Exo streaks with some Meguiar's 105 and an orange pad. It's not difficult at all.

    17. Member pdqgp's Avatar
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      05-18-2018 10:14 AM #66
      Quote Originally Posted by Ambrose Wolfinger View Post
      Interesting, someone else suggested compound and a MF pad. I guess if I'm working with a PC I needn't worry about paint damage.

      But, is there a way to confirm visually that it's all been removed?
      I saw that reply but didn't want to get into a Urinary Olympic Event with them over it. Polish with a polishing pad is all you'll need. On a Porter Cable I always recommend the Lake Country ThinPro Pads as thin pads rotate better when dry and wet on random orbital polishers that are NOT gear driven like the 7424. You'll likely notice the area you polish is slightly lighter in color as on dark vehicles coatings tend to darken the appearance up a notch. It won't take but 3 or so passes to remove it all. You could even just polish out the high spots, wipe and re-coat. Any are of overlap with the already cured coating will come off as it won't likely bond to itself once cured. Some people prefer to do the whole panel, but it's not necessary.
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    18. Member compy222's Avatar
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      05-18-2018 11:21 AM #67
      Quote Originally Posted by freedomgli View Post
      For off-road Iíd think youíd need more protection to be worthwhile. Like clear paint protection film on all high wear surfaces with ceramic coat on top of that. Or just say f-it and not bother like the majority of people who use their trucks off-road.
      i agree, these coatings aren't going to fix the "trail racing stripes" you get from branches or high contact with the vehicle. i'd look into a more traditional clear vinyl type PPF. Honestly, given the cost for some these professionally applied treatments, a clear vinyl wrap to side panels might be cost equivalent!
      Quote Originally Posted by capsaicin View Post
      AP1 S2000? I can not in good conscience talk you out of that. May your slip angle be great and your bed not be the couch!

    19. Member Ambrose Wolfinger's Avatar
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      05-18-2018 02:08 PM #68
      Thanks for the tip. I've always used the regular LC pads. Given the gentle nature of the PC, perhaps thin pads will give a bit more bite
      Quote Originally Posted by pdqgp View Post
      I saw that reply but didn't want to get into a Urinary Olympic Event with them over it. Polish with a polishing pad is all you'll need. On a Porter Cable I always recommend the Lake Country ThinPro Pads as thin pads rotate better when dry and wet on random orbital polishers that are NOT gear driven like the 7424. You'll likely notice the area you polish is slightly lighter in color as on dark vehicles coatings tend to darken the appearance up a notch. It won't take but 3 or so passes to remove it all. You could even just polish out the high spots, wipe and re-coat. Any are of overlap with the already cured coating will come off as it won't likely bond to itself once cured. Some people prefer to do the whole panel, but it's not necessary.

    20. 05-19-2018 11:28 PM #69
      OK, I went to town today and did my full interior/exterior detail and used the McKee's since it was cloudy and 60 degrees out. I will never wax a car ever again.

      I also used Iron-X for the first time ever as I had tiny rust specks behind the wheels. Easy peasy, works really well and took care of the spots 100%. I did NOT dry the car before using this, F washing, drying, Iron-Xing, washing, and drying again...I washed, sheeted the water off so it was mostly dryish, and did Iron-X, then washed again and dried and this worked well. No way was I gonna dry the car twice, F that.

      For the McKee's, naturally the paint's gotta be clean. 2 bucket wash with grit guards and a wax stripping wash soap, Iron-X, clay, and an IPA wipedown are necessary. Polish if you need to but I needed no paint correction.

      I started with the McKee's wheel coating. SO EASY. Spray on, let it sit for 10-20 seconds, then just lightly level by wiping. As soon as I sprayed it on the wheels water came shooting out of the lug holes and streaming down the wheels...it's super hydrophobic. I did two coats in about 15 minutes...MUCH quicker than doing sealant, waiting for it to dry, and trying to get it out of the cracks and contours of the spokes. Better coverage with the McKee's too being that you spray it on and into the cracks. It dries clear wherever you can't reach.

      Then I did the paint coating. SO EASY. Did one coat in the door jambs, and two on the body. This sh!t is crazy easy to use. Has enough working time to do a 2x2 spot and make 3-4 passes back and forth before it starts to flash off and you wipe it off with a microfiber. No high spots or streaking. Very easy to work with. I had a hard time determining how much to use but I'm sure I used too much since I used half the bottle for two coats on my Tiguan. Each coat took about an hour due to the 3-4 passes needed to work it.

      Pros:

      -Overspray on glass/black plastic trim are no big deal, it wipes right off (I hated spending an hour masking off the trim when I used wax so there's a large time savings)
      -Don't have to spend time cleaning wax out of cracks
      -As easy to use as a wipe-on/wipe-off boutique paste wax
      -No elbow grease needed - just rub on and work with no real effort, wipe off easily with clean MF
      -Should sh!t all over wax/sealant in every metric

      Cons:

      -I opted to throw out the MFs when I was done because I didn't want them to harden up, but they never really seemed to so maybe I was overly cautious. I used 8 (el cheapos from O'Reillys) so no real loss

      Learnings:

      -I bought five applicators because I was worried they'd crust up, but they never did. I used three, but could've done with two (or maybe even one) but I dropped one. I did keep/wash them, unlike the MFs.
      -Keep the applicator well primed with a spritz of coating
      -Still not sure if the second coat built up or just ensured even coverage but I did it anyway
      -The McKee's is pretty forgiving during initial application with the long work time. I was doing this on a silver car in a garage with just the garage door opener light, two 48" overhead shop lights, and whatever daylight came in through the garage on a cloudy day and I didn't seem to have any real problems other than the two roof rail spots I mention in my next post. I have a 1000W halogen food lamp I use for detailing, but I didn't want to use it and heat the place up and cause the stuff to flash prematurely.

      Can't speak to looks or durability yet as it's in the garage curing where it will stay until Monday morning...but I just trashed a $70 can of boutique paste wax because I'll never look back after doing a ceramic coating. So much easier and so much less work, I'm sold.

      Will report back on looks/durability later. Curious to see it in the sun but no sun in the forecast.
      Last edited by puma1552; 05-20-2018 at 10:58 AM.

    21. 05-20-2018 01:22 AM #70
      4 hour update:

      Went out to the garage just to see what's up and noticed two small spots on the roof rail above the doors where it looked like I missed wiping a spot, had that dry wax look to it.

      Grabbed an MF and tried to wipe it off...bad idea. It smudged and smeared the surrounding area showing you that it indeed takes 24 hours to cure. Figuring I had to fix this before it cured, I wetted another MF with water and started to scrub those smudgy parts. This only worked so-so to remove the smudges, so I pulled out the coating, soaked another MF with it, and scrubbed the spots with that to "reactivate" it which worked, and then from there did a VERY gentle and very wide feather out numerous times to recoat and blend. It took about 20 minutes to successfully fix these areas and feather them out but I got them. I didn't see any other spots on the car.

      So lesson learned, make DAMN sure you wipe it all off after applying because it's a b!tch to fix later.
      Last edited by puma1552; 05-20-2018 at 01:38 AM.

    22. Member Gear_Cruncher's Avatar
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      05-20-2018 04:17 AM #71
      This is something I've got to try. I'm stuck in the 80s I guess with cans of wax in the garage
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    23. 05-20-2018 10:55 AM #72
      Quote Originally Posted by Gear_Cruncher View Post
      This is something I've got to try. I'm stuck in the 80s I guess with cans of wax in the garage
      Yeah dude, never again.

      I have spent the last 7 years doing 5(!) coats - one coat glaze, two coats sealant, two coats boutique paste wax, and then finished with a spray sealant/detailing spray as my LSP.

      Now it's two coats of McKee's and done. What used to take close to 5 hours now takes 2. With the McKee's I was able to do the entire spring cleaning detail, interior and exterior, start to finish, in just 8.5 hours.

      I'll probably pull it out of the garage at some point today just to take a few pics and see how it is...we got some sun it looks like.

    24. 05-20-2018 06:10 PM #73







    25. Member Ambrose Wolfinger's Avatar
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      05-21-2018 05:41 PM #74
      Looks great!

      Question to all about leveling and removing residue.

      1) how do you know the coating is properly leveled? When applying under lights I couldn't tell, but after it dries there were some high spots and streaking.

      2) when removing, should it be buffed out like a wax? I noticed a few hazy streaks (the ones that look like light swirl marks but are actually small amounts of product residue). I simply went over the panel with a second MF a few times after the initial removal/leveling attempt. I wasn't sure if I should or shouldn't treat it like wax removal and buffing.

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      05-22-2018 08:04 AM #75
      I applied CQuartz to my ATS about 3weeks ago.
      It is still beading very nicely, but I will keep checking on it throughout the summer.




      I also drove through some rain this weekend, and the car still looks clean. It is a miracle!

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