- Detailing Forum "How-To"
Username or Email Address
Do you already have an account?
Forgot your password?
  • Log in or Sign up

    Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
    Results 1 to 25 of 71
    1. Administrator Emeritus adg44's Avatar
      Join Date
      Aug 2nd, 2000
      06-16-2003 05:40 PM #1
      Since there are a lot of repeat threads in here about "What is the best wax", "How should I wax my car", "Swirl Removal?", "How to properly wash a car", etc etc. This can be a first stop for getting information you may need.
      Here is how this works. Everyone choose a subject they wish to explain (that they know very well) and post it. Since there are so many different techniques for detailing a car, repeat posts are fine.
      I will do some write-ups later when I have some more time.
      But for now, go at it. Happy Detailing!
      - Anthony

    2. Remove Advertisements


    3. 06-16-2003 10:53 PM #2
      a pretty good Auto detailing Forum

      within that forum are these good threads
      The Definitive Porter Cable Accessorizing Thread
      POST BY 4DSC
      Quote »
      Porter Cable dual action random orbital buffer / polisher / sander
      2500-6000 opm (orbits per minute)
      3.7 amps, AC motor
      5/16", 24 thread shaft / spindle diameter (aka "5/16-24")
      5/32" eccentric offset (orbit radius)
      5.75 lbs weight
      10" length (body)
      <14" size of box needed incl. cord sheath
      4" width
      4.5" height
      +5.5" with side handle
      Model 7424 polisher includes 5 inch counterweight, 6 inch polishing pad 54745 *
      Model 7424SP sander/polisher includes 5 inch counterweight, 6 inch polishing pad 54745, 5 inch sanding pad 13700, Meguiar's cleaner wax
      Model 7335 sander includes 5 inch counterweight, 5 inch sanding pad 13700
      Model 7336 sander includes 6 inch counterweight, 6 inch sanding pad 16000
      Model 7336SP sander/polisher includes 6 inch counterweight, 6 inch sanding pad 16000, 6 inch polishing pad 54745, possibly wax also
      Models 97355 and 97366 are just the 7335 and 7336 with dust collection parts
      Meguiar's W-64DA backing pad is 5" diameter
      Classic Motoring Accessories (CMA) VBP-6 backing pad is 6" diameter
      Griot's Garage backing pad for their 7336 is actually Porter Cable 18001 6" sanding pad (Thanks to Len_A for this info)
      3m Hookit pads - all these pads are yellow and NOT to be confused with Hookit II:
      Hookit Disc Pad 05775 is 5" (tapered edge)
      Hookit Disc Pad 05776 is 6" (tapered edge)
      Hookit Low Profile Disc Pad 05755 is 5" (almost flat edge)
      Hookit Low Profile Disc Pad 05756 is 6" (almost flat edge)
      All the above pads are velcro backed.
      Porter Cable sanding pads:
      5" standard (solid) adhesive-backed (non-velcro) pad 13700 (comes with 7424sp, 7335)
      6" standard (solid) adhesive-backed (non-velcro) pad 16000 (comes with 7336, 7336sp)
      5" 5-hole Hook & Loop (velcro) pad 15000 (standard), and pad 15001 ("contour" type - softer, thicker for PC's really thin polishing pads)
      6" 6-hole Hook & Loop (velcro) pad 18001 (standard) (comes with Griot's 7336 PC), and pad 18002 ("contour") (comes with Coastal Tool's 7424 bonus kit)
      Porter Cable counterweights (see above for equipped models):
      5" Counterweight 874011
      6" Counterweight 699933
      Counterweights are attached with 2 Torx screws, size 15 ( T15 ). *

      Two of the most popular PC kits and backing pads (or backup plates ) are the ones from Meguiar's and CMA. While it has been recommended in the past to match the counterweight to the diameter of the backing pad, recent posts (deleted by the server outage) have shown users to be happier with using the heavier 6" counterweight with the 5" Meguiar's backing pad. They report less vibration and smoother running at higher speed settings with this combination than when they were using the 5" counterweight. This seems to be the smoothest running combination (5" pad with 6" weight) especially at higher speed settings. A combination of a 6" pad (such as the CMA pad) with 6" weight also performs very well and is preferable to using the 5" weight. I spent some time testing some various combinations of weights and backing pads in this thread: PC Vibration Test which reinforces what a small number of users have told me about the 6" weight/pad combo. The current recommendation for buying a PC is to simply buy a 7336 series model or buy the PC 7424 Bonus Kit from Coastal Tool. This kit includes an extra 6" counterweight and the 18002 sanding pad. Alternatively you can try buying a 6" counterweight separately if you own a machine equipped with the 5" weight. People always had trouble in the past where they had to buy a separate counterweight once they bought a 7424 and the 6" CMA kit. Buy a 7336 or Coastal Tool kit and save yourself the trouble.
      Failure to get a well balanced combination of counterweight and pads MAY result in increased wear and shorter life for your PC (not to mention sore hands), especially if you run it at high speeds a lot. That is not to say you absolutely cannot use a 5" weight and your PC will self-destruct instantly, but it may not be best in the long run and it just doesn't seem to be the best handling setup. The owner's manual also recommends that you have your PC inspected and serviced (if needed) after about 100 hours of usage by an authorized service center.
      Both 5" and 6" backing pads will work with commonly used 6.5"(or even 8") polishing pads. They do not have to match their diameter or anything, just stay firmly attached.
      * Occasionally some people get an oddball PC with a mismatching counterweight (ie, 6" on the 7424) or different sized Torx screws (try T20 if T15 doesn't fit).
      SIDEBAR: What's that funny black washer for? Some people who have already purchased their PC's have been bewildered by this odd plastic or fiberboard washer that comes with their machine. According to Porter Cable, it is intended to fit between the backing pad and the spindle. The PC I bought came with this washer pre-installed on the backing pad, but often it's loose in a bag. My personal theory for why it goes here is so that it gives additional clearance between the pad and unit so getting the wrench in between them is easier.

      I'm going to try to keep this short since others will know more, and the hardest part about PC ownership seems to be just trying to get the pads on! I've only included the smaller 6" (really 6.5") pads because they are the most handy and popular, although some prefer the larger 8" size for some jobs. This listing is NOT exhaustive, as there are lots of other makes and types of pads available out there (CMA alone has many other types).
      CMA 6.5" Durofoam Variable Contact (VC) foam pads:
      These pads have a dish or depression on the middle face of the pad so that they are not flat, but slightly concave - hence the "variable contact" name.
      - Lambswool Leveling Pad 77-216
      - Yellow Cutting Pad 46-570VC
      - White Polishing Pad 46-670VC
      - Grey / Gray Finishing Pad 46-770VC
      - Porter Cable Accessory Kit DM-KIT (includes 6" backing pad, 1 cutting pad, 2 polishing pads, 1 finishing pad, 1 lambswool compounding pad, 2 terry bonnets)
      - Detailing Accessory Package DAP-KIT (identical to above but no 6" backing pad)
      - It's worth noting that Lake Country manufactures CMA pads. If you'd like to know the exact specific type of pad that any of the above are, note the CMA part number matches the part number you can find on the Lake Country website.
      CMA 4 Inch Spot Repair Pads:
      CMA sells these neat little pads with their own 3.5" diameter backing plate. The pads are only 4 inches big, so they're designed for repairing scratches and handy for polishing in tight areas. Not a lot of mention on the forum about this yet, but it sounds like a good idea.
      Meguiar's 6.5" Softbuff foam pads:
      These pads are flat faced pads, unlike the CMA ones. 8 inch pads are specified by replacing the "6" with a "0" in the item number.
      - Lambswool Cut 'n Shine Wool Pad W-4006 (yes, they DO make this!)
      - Maroon / Red / Purple Cutting Pad W-7006
      - Yellow Polishing Pad W-8006
      - Tan / Beige Finishing Pad W-9006
      - Set of 3 Pads WDAV99-B (includes 2 polishing pads, 1 finishing pad)
      - WDAV99 (identical to above kit but includes 5" backing pad and reportedly costs $8 more)
      Porter Cable 6" OEM foam polishing pad:
      White polishing pad with integral (permanent, possibly 5") backing plate, part number 54745 Even though Coastal Tool claims that this pad may be used with either the 5" or 6" counterweight, I have determined that (based on 2 members' experiences) that this pad works smoothly only with the 5" weight and vibrates excessively at high speeds with the 6" weight.
      Porter Cable also makes a 6" lambs wool velcro backed polishing pad part number 18007
      3M makes good pads, but only their 6.75" Perfect-it DA Glazing Pad 05729 is smaller than 8 inches. It appears that this pad is intended for use only with glazes and wax application, not polishing, so it may not be best suited for that use. Several members here like these type of pads with their convoluted foam face design that looks like fingers or a waffle type. These other pads are meant for rotary buffers and are 8" or larger, but might work with the PC.
      Link to all of 3M's polishing stuff (except backing pads)
      LINKS (aka CMA) (also have a tutorial about PC usage) (be sure to download his useful guide to PC usage in PDF format)

      Relative abrasiveness of 3M products
      POST BY 4DSC
      Quote &raquo;
      hanks for the question about 3M Car Care Products. It's difficult to give a perfect answer to your question because of the variety of tools and pads used to perform this function. They too can have an effect on the aggressiveness of the different products. But here is our best advice on the subject. I've identified both cut (how quickly it removes material - the higher the number the faster it cuts) and finish (how smooth the surface is after application - 0 being very high gloss). The perfect product would have a very high cut number and a very low finish number.
      Swirl Mark Remover: 25 cut, 2 finish (this product contains no waxes or silicones - wax should be applied as a second step)
      Medium Oxidation Remover: 45 cut, 2 finish (this product also has a wax in it which makes the finish look better) ...therefore Med. Ox. Remover should get rid of the scratches/oxidation/watermarks quicker and leave a very similar finish.
      The next most aggressive product would be Perfect-it II Rubbing Compound, 39002: Cut=65, Finish=12. Typically a professional would use Perfect-it II to get rid of all imperfections, then Swirl mark remover to remove the minor scratches or swirlmarks left from the compounding stage and then a wax. When working by hand you can often go straight from 39002 to a wax/polish.
      Hope this helps.
      Bill Wheeler
      3M Automotive Aftermarket Division

      Modified by GeneH at 9:57 AM 6-17-2003

      Modified by GeneH at 10:01 AM 6-17-2003

    4. Member Triumph's Avatar
      Join Date
      Nov 27th, 2000
      Northern VA
      '09 GTI
      06-17-2003 11:19 AM #3
      Popular drying methods
      Since I don't feel like going through the entire process of washing your car, I'll focus on one aspect of it: the drying. But I'll make a few notes on washing, because they relate to drying.
      Washing: Wash your car when it is cool and in the shade. Air drying is the main cause of water spots, and the heat from the sun and the paint surface only amplifies the effect.
      Rinsing: For rinsing, remove whatever nozzle you usually use from your hose, and rinse the car with the open end of the hose, with a low water pressure. You don't need a jet of water pummeling your car now that it's clean. Just let the water "fall" onto the surface, and you'll see the difference! Definitely helps with the drying process.
      Drying: Popular products
      100% Cotton Towels - True 100% cotton towels will not scratch your paint, and are fairly cheap, but they don't absorb water very well. There's also a chance of "100%" towels not really being 100% cotton. The stitching may be another fabric that can scratch your paint.
      The Absorber(tm) - A popular product available at many different stores, The Absorber soaks up a claimed 50% more water than a cotton towel
      Chamois -
      California Water Blade - The Blade is a ~1 foot long piece of "medical" grade soft, bendable silicone that will conform to the changing surfaces of your car as you wipe the CWB over it. It looks almost like a windshield wiper. It will scratch your paint if it catches any dirt or grit, so be sure to clean the blade after each pass, and never use it to wash rain water off of your car. The CWB has mixed opinions on it, some can't seem to use it without it chattering over the surface, others love it. Myself, I think it is great for removing water from the large surfaces (trunk/hood/roof), then I follow up with a towel to finish drying.
      Microfiber Towels -

      I'm going to write more later, but I'm at work now. Enough goofing off.

      Modified by Triumph at 8:29 AM 6-20-2003
      -Triumph, the Insult Comic Dog

      I saw this in a movie about a bus that had to speed around the city, keeping its speed over fifty, and if its speed dropped, the bus would explode! I think it was called, "The Bus That Couldn't Slow Down."

    5. Remove Advertisements


    6. 06-23-2003 05:00 AM #4
      Lets now add some good Glass Cleaners

    7. 06-23-2003 11:46 PM #5
      I really meant hard water spots, i can't get them out even with 20/20 and Stoner glass cleaner.

    8. Member Clean97GTi's Avatar
      Join Date
      Nov 28th, 2001
      Las Vegas, NV
      '15 Passat SEL TDI, '11 Jetta Sportwagen TDI(buyback), 97 GTI 2.0(sold)
      07-04-2003 06:12 PM #6
      For cleaning glass, I use Plain blue Windex and newspaper (no lint)
      After I'm satisfied that the glass is "clean" I grab my tub of polishing compound and do 1 window at a time. After the polishing compound, its onto a good paste wax applied by hand and removed with a buffer. For tight corners, I use my Dremel.
      Anyone who has seen my car knows I am fanatical about perfect glass. I would have Oakley make my windows if it wouldn't put me in the poor house.

      Modified by Clean97GTi at 5:14 PM 7-4-2003

    9. Senior Member Lima's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 26th, 2002
      Canberra, Australia
      MY10 Audi S3
      07-21-2003 07:40 PM #7
      Here's a link to my debadging/rebadging thread:
      Cheers Liam

    10. 07-21-2003 11:17 PM #8
      adg44, please allow me to restate what you have already done.
      While I and my company would love to provide all of you the set of charts, please, understand, as I am sure you have, they are not all that helpful unless one has a certain amount of professional detailing knowledge, the correct tools, etc.
      Plus, as I am sure you can share, after receiving them, they are rather expensive.
      To all, I do appreciate the emails, and I have attempted to respond to all, but it is just not possible to provide them to other than professional detailers who are committed to our program which is directed at attempting to improve the image, the dedication, the "do it right" pro detailers.
      Thanks again to all, sorry for not being able to fulfill your requests, just too darn expensive and as stated, would not really be of aid to most.
      Ron Ketcham

    11. Member Triumph's Avatar
      Join Date
      Nov 27th, 2000
      Northern VA
      '09 GTI
      07-22-2003 10:59 AM #9
      Tips for cleaning and conditioning leather
      A few tips for cleaning and conditioning your leather:
      - The hotter the better! Hot leather will soak up conditioner much better than cool leather, leaving you with less greasy residue and more assurance that the conditioner is getting down into the material and really doing its job. If the temp is in the 60's or 70's, let it sit in direct sunlight to warm up the interior nicely.
      - Leave the conditioner to soak in for a few hours in a warm car, before wiping off any residue. Your seats will tell you if you've used too much or too little.
      - Use your hands to apply the conditioner. This works it into the material and gives you soft smooth skin, if you're into that.
      - Cleaning/conditioning twice a year is probably good enough. Once when the weather starts getting warm and once before it starts getting too cold. For reasons mentioned above, I wouldn't expect to see great results at temperatures below say, 65F.
      - Prevention is key. Repairing cracked leather is harder than preventing it. Tinted windows and windshield sunshades will also have positive benefits for the longevity of your leather, blocking harmful UV rays. Besides, tint looks cool.
      -Triumph, the Insult Comic Dog

      I saw this in a movie about a bus that had to speed around the city, keeping its speed over fifty, and if its speed dropped, the bus would explode! I think it was called, "The Bus That Couldn't Slow Down."

    12. 07-24-2003 09:47 PM #10
      less painful way to apply tire dressing:
      make a circular cardboard cut-out the same diameter as your wheel, hold it in place, and spray your tire dressing like a madman. this way you won't have to worry about dressing over-spray on your nice wheels.
      cleaning mesh-style wheel "spokes"

      gross! look at that brake dust!
      what i have done, is bought a little brush that kinda know what i'm talking about. well, i bent the looped wire in there down to make a flat brush with bristles on all sides. take some water and your wheel cleaner of choice spray it, and perform the old 'in-out, in-out' on each of the spokes. it takes some time of course, but the results are great.
      it's still tough to clean between each and every bolt, and the smaller 'mesh' thingies that don't go all the way through.

    13. Member Red Baron Golf's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jul 18th, 2000
      Ontario, Canada
      1995 VW Cabrio, 2011 Honda Odyseey Touring, 2019 Golf R 6 speed
      07-25-2003 12:34 PM #11
      Leather care info thread, incl. info on VW, Lexol and Leatherique:
      1995 VW Cabrio 5spd
      2011 Honda Odyssey Touring
      2019 Golf R 6spd Manual

    14. 07-25-2003 01:20 PM #12
      Couple of tips you might find handy
      1) I use the kitchen sponges that are yellow with the green scouring pad back to apply tire dressing. Spray the dressing on the foam side and apply to the tire .. no more overspray on your clean wheels or up on your paint. These are like $2 for 12 at your local dollar discount and at this price disposable when they get dirty.
      2) Use Westleys Bleech Wite to clean your tires before applying your favorite dressing. Once you spray this on your tire you will crap when you see the brown crud run down. As with car waxing a well prepared black tire will look better when dressed up. If you have non-cleared alloy wheels protect them from the spray.
      3) To apply your black trim dressing like Back To Black etc try using a foam paint applicator ( Foam wedge shaped brush on a plastic or woden handle) to put the dressing on. This allows you to get in those hard to reach places and also great for doing straight edges on the rubber around the windows. Just make sure you wipe off the excess so the coat is uniform.

      Modified by Jesstzn at 9:51 PM 8-1-2003

    15. 08-02-2003 08:13 PM #13
      Car Washing Tips:
      - First RINSE REALLY WELL. Take your time and do it right to ensure you remove as much of the loose dirt as possible. If not, expect scratches. Rinse each and every crevice really well; dirt gets trapped there too and will find its way to the wash thingy. I don't recommend a power washer as it can overcome certain pressure seals, but the highest water pressure your house provides should be fine. I think a really thorough rinse should take about 15 minutes.
      - Wash. I'm not going to recommend a particular car wash, but here's my method and rationale. Wash from the top down. Not front to back or sectionally. Start with the roof. Then the windows, then the hood and trunk, upper side panels, inside door wells, lower side panels, then the wheel wells, underbody, tires, and finally rims. The rationale is that most of the dirt that sticks and doesn't come off during even a good rinse is at the lower body. If you start there, expect the dirt to get trapped in your wash thingy and scratch the rest of your paint. Also, never ever ever use your wash thingy for your paint for your wheels; use a different one.
      - Wash the wash thingy. Clean it many many times during washing the car. I recommend a separate 20 gallon bucket of only water for this; return it there for a rinse before you resoap it in your suds bucket to prevent dragging dirt into yoru soap and onto your paint. Remember to throw the wash thingy in with your laundry for a thorough cleaning.
      -Rinse. This time low pressure water fall flow is perfect. It will allow all the water to sheet off the car leaving less for drying. Someone's already talked about drying, so I only have one thing to add, make sure you shake all the lint from that towel or chamois or you will drive yourself nuts!
      If I'm washing my car for a detailing, it takes me about an hour. For any in-between wash, like 30 minutes. Sometimes a rinse and dry is plenty.
      Do it with friends, and you won't know it's work

      Modified by pocket at 7:15 PM 8-2-2003

    16. 08-09-2003 01:55 PM #14
      Heres a excellent site to check out as well

      Modified by EuroDubbin at 1:56 PM 8-9-2003

    17. Member
      Join Date
      Jul 11th, 2003
      Long Island, NY
      2008 Treg 2, Lux Plus, Air, Technology, Llumar 35%, H&K Drive & Play 2, Parrot, Valentine 1
      08-22-2003 02:50 PM #15
      Most folks there know me. Here's a link to my entire detailing routine, with list of products. Works very well.

    18. Member
      Join Date
      Jul 11th, 2003
      Long Island, NY
      2008 Treg 2, Lux Plus, Air, Technology, Llumar 35%, H&K Drive & Play 2, Parrot, Valentine 1
      08-22-2003 02:52 PM #16
      Quote, originally posted by basshead22 &raquo;
      Lets now add some good Glass Cleaners

      Eimann Fabrik Clear Vision. Best stuff on the market for cleaning glass.

    19. Member
      Join Date
      Jul 11th, 2003
      Long Island, NY
      2008 Treg 2, Lux Plus, Air, Technology, Llumar 35%, H&K Drive & Play 2, Parrot, Valentine 1
      08-22-2003 02:54 PM #17
      Even simpler. Use Eagle One tire swipes. Spray the swipes with the dressing (I prefer One Grand ERV) and then wipe on.

    20. 08-22-2003 03:31 PM #18
      Even less money .. same results
      12/$1 at your local discount store

    21. Member
      Join Date
      Jul 11th, 2003
      Long Island, NY
      2008 Treg 2, Lux Plus, Air, Technology, Llumar 35%, H&K Drive & Play 2, Parrot, Valentine 1
      08-24-2003 10:04 PM #19
      Personnally, these are not as nice as tire swipes. They are not only curved perfectly to cover the tire and not touch the wheels, but they have a hard little handle that's great at preventing the wet dirty tire dressing from getting on your hands. Last about a month also.

    22. 08-24-2003 10:48 PM #20
      Quote, originally posted by Ted K &raquo;
      Personnally, these are not as nice as tire swipes. They are not only curved perfectly to cover the tire and not touch the wheels, but they have a hard little handle that's great at preventing the wet dirty tire dressing from getting on your hands. Last about a month also.

      Personnaly Ted .. they are so .. I have used both. The swipes got just as dirty as the foam and when you try to clean them they fall apart. Some here are on a budget and can't afford all the luxuries like Swipes and the high end detailing products. I wouldn't recommend them if it didn't work .. the green side gives a place for a firm grip and if the dressing is applied to one end of the pad only you get none on your hands .

    23. 08-28-2003 01:08 PM #21
      Plain water and some #0000 steel wool.

    24. 08-28-2003 11:38 PM #22

    25. 09-01-2003 11:50 AM #23
      Gum on the carpet/upholstery
      Got discarded gum on my sandal yesterday, hot day .. 80f+ got in the car and promptly smeared it on the carpet but the tranny hump.. and rubbed it in with driving. I tried the freezing method to remove it but instead of ice I took a can of "Canned Air" used for cleaning computers. I turned it upside down and sprayed the gum. It froze instantly then a little rubbing with the finger nails lifted it right out and I had the shop vac there and sucked it up. Biege carpet ... purple gum.. 100% gone. Only thing I would do different is use a spoon to rub it off with ... nearly froze my finger tip.

      Modified by Jesstzn at 7:52 AM 9-1-2003

    26. 09-01-2003 12:46 PM #24
      I have found that a baby bottle brush works great to clean mesh/hard-to-clean wheels. They come in several different levels of brisel stiffness, find one that is not to stiff but will still clean without scratching.

    27. Member Golf GTi 8v's Avatar
      Join Date
      Mar 3rd, 2003
      GVRD BC
      1990 Golf GTi 8v small bumpers
      09-02-2003 05:29 PM #25
      What happens if you wax your car without removing old wax or using dawn dish soap first?

      Modified by Golf GTi 8v at 1:31 PM 9-2-2003

    Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

    Posting Permissions

    • You may not post new threads
    • You may not post replies
    • You may not post attachments
    • You may not edit your posts