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    1. Member Crispyfritter's Avatar
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      10-03-2016 06:47 PM #26
      Hmm...

      Its a toss up between a Fox Mustang and an S-10

      Take a beater S-10 single cab long bed with no engine.

      Swap a bigblock with decent heads, intake and rotating assembly and spray about 300HP. Don't forget slicks.

      Chris
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      10-03-2016 08:18 PM #27
      Definitely a domestic. Once you hit 9.99 you need to worry about cages. More options resulting in kits you can buy.

      Really, running 10s would be exponentially cheaper and you can take most anything street driven.

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      10-03-2016 08:22 PM #28
      Cheapest way to 9s is to buy someone else's 8 second car, then drive it yourself.

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      10-03-2016 08:43 PM #29
      Actually, you need a 10 second car. At 9s, knowing a proper burn out, safety equipment needed, suspension tuning, reading the hole and all come into play. One thing off and things get ugly at 130mph.

    6. Member NashGTI's Avatar
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      10-03-2016 08:50 PM #30
      Quote Originally Posted by StressStrain View Post
      Cheapest way to 9s is to buy someone else's 8 second car, then drive it yourself.

    7. Senior Member Iroczgirl's Avatar
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      10-03-2016 08:59 PM #31
      Quote Originally Posted by StressStrain View Post
      Cheapest way to 9s is to buy someone else's 8 second car, then drive it yourself.
      Enough said.
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      10-03-2016 09:01 PM #32
      Quote Originally Posted by StressStrain View Post
      Cheapest way to 9s is to buy someone else's 8 second car, then drive it yourself.
      Quote Originally Posted by Mk1Madness
      Back when making your car faster and better handling was the big thing.
      Quote Originally Posted by Tavarish
      The car's best safety feature includes ejecting you in the moment of impact and wishing you the best of luck.

    9. 10-03-2016 09:03 PM #33
      You didn't specify if you want 9's in the 1/8th or 1/4 mile. It's cheap to get into the 9's in the 1/8.


    10. Member J2G's Avatar
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      10-03-2016 09:04 PM #34
      Do you actually want to run 9s at a track? Or do you want a car that can do that on the road? My answer would vary.


      For mainly track use, spray will get you most of the way there. For the same on-road drama, I'd get a Mustang Cobra or something similar and see how close you can get with smaller pulley and gears.
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    11. Member 4.OMG's Avatar
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      It varies.
      10-03-2016 09:19 PM #35
      Quote Originally Posted by dodger21 View Post
      Actually, you need a 10 second car. At 9s, knowing a proper burn out, safety equipment needed, suspension tuning, reading the hole and all come into play. One thing off and things get ugly at 130mph.
      I was going to tell him that if he has to ask, he's not ready to run 9s, or 10s, or 11s for that matter.

      Buy a reliable (i.e., understressed) low 12 second car and see how fast it actually is and learn to drive it, then worry about going faster.

    12. 10-03-2016 10:30 PM #36
      Any LS is a good start, I vote single cab short bed silverado 2wd with an eBay turbo, yea buddy!

      Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk

    13. Member Jimmy Russells's Avatar
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      10-03-2016 10:36 PM #37
      This page is mainly true ,if you have never launched a real 9 second car on slicks before (1.3x 60' time), wear an extra diaper.

    14. Member fireside's Avatar
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      10-03-2016 10:57 PM #38
      Quote Originally Posted by Jimmy Russells33 View Post
      Fox Mustang

      302, heads cam intake, slicks and lots of nitrous. If you're buying a long block start with a 351w and not a 302.
      came here to say this

    15. Member Stromaluski's Avatar
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      10-04-2016 08:30 AM #39
      Quote Originally Posted by Sold Over Sticker View Post
      Damn. OP is trying to get into the 9's and I'm just a busta who owes someone a 10 second car.
      All you gotta do is lengthen the injector pulse another millisecond and tune the NOS timer, and you'll run 9's.

    16. Member core5's Avatar
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      10-04-2016 08:37 AM #40
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    17. Junior Member esem's Avatar
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      10-04-2016 09:13 AM #41
      I would cast my vote towards what's already been said, either a Fox Mustang w/ slicks and LOTS of nitrous or an LS-series in *insert car/chassis of your choosing* with a turbo (and maybe a little spray, too) and slicks...

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      10-04-2016 09:23 AM #42
      kawasaki H2. reliable and warranty.

    19. Member bigpoppapitts's Avatar
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      10-04-2016 09:29 AM #43
      Plebians. Why buy a street car when DRAGSTER is clearly the answer, and it will be cheaper, faster and most of all safer!

      Depending on the size of your attachments you may have to turn in your man card, but you can easily score a fully turn key Jr. Dragster for under 6K and they can take you deep into the 8's depending on how they are prepped.

      You can probably scratch your 9 second itch for a year and then sell it for what you paid for it.

      Here's a pretty clean one for just over 4!

      I've seen these run a couple of times and they are legit and easily capable of more than enough acceleration to pucker even the most jaded of internet bench racing sphincters.

      !

      http://www.racingjunk.com/Junior-Dra...-Dragster.html
      Last edited by bigpoppapitts; 10-04-2016 at 09:33 AM.

    20. Member G60 Carat's Avatar
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      10-04-2016 09:30 AM #44
      Quote Originally Posted by dodger21 View Post
      Actually, you need a 10 second car. At 9s, knowing a proper burn out, safety equipment needed, suspension tuning, reading the hole and all come into play. One thing off and things get ugly at 130mph.
      Actually you don't want to go much faster than 11.50, after that you need a bunch more more safety equipment, like a 6 point cage. Faster than 10.00 and there is a bigger much more difficult leap. Besides the 10 point cage, the seatbelts have to be changed every few years, and any NHRA track will require you to have an NHRA license, which means a medical (every 2 years I believe), and having your cage certified. Not to mention all the SFI stuff you will need either way, like a SFI trans bellhousing, flywheel/flexplate, harness, seat, front vibration damper, driveshaft loop, fire jacket (or full suit at >10.0) etc. Basically it's affordable to go 11.50's on the track, you have to put some time and money into safety equipment going 10.00-11.50, and you really need to commit to go faster than 10.0 but by then you would be pretty familiar with track life, those kind times don't just happen overnight.

      Quote Originally Posted by 4.OMG View Post
      .
      Buy a reliable (i.e., understressed) low 12 second car and see how fast it actually is and learn to drive it, then worry about going faster.
      This is good advice.

      Quote Originally Posted by Jacks3am View Post
      Any LS is a good start, I vote single cab short bed silverado 2wd with an eBay turbo, yea buddy!
      ^ surprising good advice. Get into something with an LS based motor, and google "Denmah turbo kit" aka "Sloppy Mechanics". He has tons of youtube videos, and lots of threads on Yellow Bullet/Turbo Bullet. (Also get on Yellow bullet forum!) and his whole thing is how to go very fast on a budget. Don't overlook picking up a 5.3 or 6.0 Chevy truck motor from a wrecker and putting it into something much lighter (Fox platform, old RX7, Datsun, Vega, Monza, hell anything 80's and RWD really) then turbocharging that. The trans and rearend will obviously need to be changed at the same time, for a budget build the Ford 8.8 stuff is really good. No trans is really up to be launched with a big converter off a trans brake (wait until you see how much a good torque converter costs), at least not repeatedly. But a Powerglide or Turbo 400 are cheap and easy get and affordable to have rebuilt/beefed up.

      Best bet money wise is to buy someone else's drag car or even a roller and then turbo LS that.
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    21. Junior Member esem's Avatar
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      10-04-2016 09:48 AM #45
      Quote Originally Posted by G60 Carat View Post
      ^ surprising good advice. Get into something with an LS based motor, and google "Denmah turbo kit" aka "Sloppy Mechanics". He has tons of youtube videos, and lots of threads on Yellow Bullet/Turbo Bullet. (Also get on Yellow bullet forum!) and his whole thing is how to go very fast on a budget. Don't overlook picking up a 5.3 or 6.0 Chevy truck motor from a wrecker and putting it into something much lighter (Fox platform, old RX7, Datsun, Vega, Monza, hell anything 80's and RWD really) then turbocharging that. The trans and rearend will obviously need to be changed at the same time, for a budget build the Ford 8.8 stuff is really good. No trans is really up to be launched with a big converter off a trans brake (wait until you see how much a good torque converter costs), at least not repeatedly. But a Powerglide or Turbo 400 are cheap and easy get and affordable to have rebuilt/beefed up.
      Ahhh... good ole' Denmah and the Sloppy Mechanics team! Love those guys! Denmah posts a lot on one of the random offtopic forums I'm a member of...love his builds!!
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    22. Member nstevic01's Avatar
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      10-04-2016 09:50 AM #46
      Quote Originally Posted by Stangy View Post
      Eagle Talon TSI / End Thread

    23. Member
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      10-04-2016 09:55 AM #47
      Quote Originally Posted by G60 Carat View Post
      Actually you don't want to go much faster than 11.50, after that you need a bunch more more safety equipment, like a 6 point cage. Faster than 10.00 and there is a bigger much more difficult leap. Besides the 10 point cage, the seatbelts have to be changed every few years, and any NHRA track will require you to have an NHRA license, which means a medical (every 2 years I believe), and having your cage certified. Not to mention all the SFI stuff you will need either way, like a SFI trans bellhousing, flywheel/flexplate, harness, seat, front vibration damper, driveshaft loop, fire jacket (or full suit at >10.0) etc. Basically it's affordable to go 11.50's on the track, you have to put some time and money into safety equipment going 10.00-11.50, and you really need to commit to go faster than 10.0 but by then you would be pretty familiar with track life, those kind times don't just happen overnight.

      Why would you NOT have a scatter shield, drive shaft loop ECT in a car that moves like that and will obviously be pushed hard? Have you never seen one come apart? see just how ripped up the inside is when they do? Never seen one rip a shaft and pole vault? Why would you not have a fully certified cromemoly cage if your really looking to turn fast times like that?

      As for the JR drag car sugestion...... Um my coz ran them for years..... you ever try and fit in one? I mean not that there is really that much room in a real adult rail.... but my god, you better be 5'2" and 75#'s not 6'3" at over 200 to fit.

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      10-04-2016 10:57 AM #48
      Quote Originally Posted by jszucs View Post
      Why would you NOT have a scatter shield, drive shaft loop ECT in a car that moves like that and will obviously be pushed hard? Have you never seen one come apart? see just how ripped up the inside is when they do? Never seen one rip a shaft and pole vault? Why would you not have a fully certified cromemoly cage if your really looking to turn fast times like that?

      As for the JR drag car sugestion...... Um my coz ran them for years..... you ever try and fit in one? I mean not that there is really that much room in a real adult rail.... but my god, you better be 5'2" and 75#'s not 6'3" at over 200 to fit.
      If faster than 13.99 and on slicks, it needs DS loops.

      The problem with JR dragsters is you need a vehicle to pull the trailer. Or a long bed truck. If big dragster, you have to wear the safety your chassis is cert for no matter the et/mph you might run.

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      10-04-2016 11:47 AM #49
      Quote Originally Posted by dodger21 View Post
      If faster than 13.99 and on slicks, it needs DS loops.

      The problem with JR dragsters is you need a vehicle to pull the trailer. Or a long bed truck. If big dragster, you have to wear the safety your chassis is cert for no matter the et/mph you might run.
      How is that any diffrent then a dedicated drag car? You still need to trailer a dedicated drag car?


      I guess the fast / cheep / easier way to do it on 4 wheels would be to build a shifter kart for drag.

    26. 10-04-2016 11:49 AM #50
      9's isn't too hard.

      Hell C6 Z06s with cam and spray and drag radials or a ZR1 with basic upgrades and drag radials (CCB delete for 15" wheel) can easily do 9s.

      Cheapest way
      Fox body roller with upgraded rear end
      th400 or glide
      carb converted LQ49/LY6 (iron GM truck blocks 6.0L)
      nitrous. Lots of nitrous


      I think some of the junk yard guys can build a turbo LS car in a Datsun or Mustang and get them flirting with the 8s but id guess that's still a 20-25k job plus the car.
      Boiler Up!

      Make it three yards mother****er and we'll have an automobile race

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