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    1. Member
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      Mar 21st, 2014
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      Tennessee
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      120
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      2006 A3 6MT 2.0T
      09-21-2016 08:47 PM #1
      Full disclosure: There have been a lot of changes in both the environment and the car in the past few months, so it's very hard to determine whether this is a new development or something that's maybe been there and become magnified. The issue is also not perfectly repeatable, so it's hard to pin down.

      The symptom is right at the startup of the car. Turn the key, engine cranks, and as soon as it catches the revs jump up, only instead of running up to 1300 or so, they stay put at a point between 600 and 800. Those numbers are off of the tachometer, which jumps to the engine speed as soon as the key is released, and confirmed based on the sound of the engine. The idle then sits there for between 2 and 4 seconds before jumping up to the usual 1300 and resuming the normal idle. This only happens when A)the car is in direct sunlight, and B)the car was driven at very slow speeds or idled before being shut off. It's happened three times in the past two weeks, and those are the only consistencies I can find. Car could've been off for 10 minutes or 2 days, doesn't make a difference.

      My thoughts:
      Just did the Timing Belt: did I mess something up? seems to run great the rest of the time

      All summer the car was driven every day, now it's 3-4 times a week, maybe the battery is weak(last replaced by dealer in 2012)?

      2 months ago fixed A/C valve and recharged A/C system, the first time the A/C was on and I blamed the valve for catching early, but the third time the A/C was off at the end of the last drive, which seems to eliminate that.

      Replaced plugs at beginning of the summer, again has run flawlessly all summer so those seem hard to blame

      Car has seemed to start rough during cold weather for the past 3ish years, but drove fine the rest of the time so never properly diagnosed that

      My drives are usually between 20-30 minutes with a mix of freeway and rural roads, don't see an issue there

      Forum searches turn up similar problems with 1.8Ts due to MAF connections, but I haven't seen anything on the 2.0Ts, and mine seems fine.

      Your thoughts?

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    3. Member
      Join Date
      Jul 27th, 2005
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      Ramona, CA
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      '06, A3 2.0t, Sport
      09-21-2016 08:57 PM #2
      Hmmm... Sounds like possibly PCV or other intake leak issues. What about carbon cleaning? Check codes?
      Quote Originally Posted by MachnickiA3 View Post
      stick that in your "fleshy patch"

    4. Member
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      Mar 21st, 2014
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      Tennessee
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      120
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      2006 A3 6MT 2.0T
      09-23-2016 07:32 AM #3
      PCV valve was replaced 3 years ago, Carbon Cleaning was done by dealership 2 years ago, and no codes are returned on my mechanic's VAG computer. Also, I have a boost gauge on there and there doesn't seem to have been any drop in pressure, it hits 15psi under hard acceleration reliably. Not that all of those things are eliminated, and I most certainly will review all of the connections and such for the PCV valve, that's a good one.

      Another idea I had: my fuel pump has been sounding a little weird (when you open the door and it starts whining it seems like it's cutting in and out) and I've never done the fuel filter. Some people have mentioned having done those, could they be the culprit? Or are they a regular maintenance item I should do anyways?

    5. Member 2006_A3_2.0T's Avatar
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      Jan 11th, 2013
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      Chile
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      1,747
      09-23-2016 08:45 AM #4
      Scan it with vagcom, if nothing shows, I would do some regular maintenaince just to discard those basic things:

      Clean the MAF with contacts cleaner, clean the air filter, change oil, use an injectors cleaner on the gas tank, replace fuel filter. Also while down there changing the fuel filter I would remove and clean the intercooler hoses. just a starting point.
      DM Stg2

    6. Member
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      Jul 27th, 2005
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      '06, A3 2.0t, Sport
      09-23-2016 10:06 AM #5
      Quote Originally Posted by A3REDT View Post
      Another idea I had: my fuel pump has been sounding a little weird (when you open the door and it starts whining it seems like it's cutting in and out) and I've never done the fuel filter. Some people have mentioned having done those, could they be the culprit? Or are they a regular maintenance item I should do anyways?
      Yeah, the LPFP is common to start failing like that. Replaced mine a while ago. I think the "lifetime" fuel filter is usually done around 100k miles at the absolute most for anyone interested in proper real maintenance. I do the fuel filter at 80k miles because it's easy to remember to do it when I do the big timing belt and carbon cleaning maintenance.

      Doesn't sound like either one could be causing your problem, although the sketchy LPFP is a possibility.
      Quote Originally Posted by MachnickiA3 View Post
      stick that in your "fleshy patch"

    7. Member
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      Mar 21st, 2014
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      Tennessee
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      2006 A3 6MT 2.0T
      11-30-2016 09:09 AM #6
      Sorry it took so long to get a response in.

      So I went through all of the mentioned things, replaced lots of parts, no joy. This was frustrating. I scanned it with VAG-COM. Still nothing. A few weeks ago, I'm at my parent's checking over their cars and I'm looking at the new battery my dad just put in his car. Shucks, it would really be annoying if it was a battery or connection issue.

      So I pop the top of the enclosure off and the negative terminal is encrusted with a blue coral-like substance, making about a 1-in. radius sphere where it expanded freely. I vacuumed and scraped it all off, and determined that it was fluid that had escaped, due to the fact that two of the 6 cells had very little fluid in them at all. So I filled the terminals with distilled water and in total they took about 2 cups. I have not had any issues with starting since, and it's now been about a month.

      So my question is, is this dangerous? I believe I should replace the battery as soon as possible, because the blue substance is growing again. Also, has anybody seen similar failures in the OEM batteries? This battery was replaced 4 years ago by what I consider to be the worst Audi dealership in the Midwest when they were attempting to fix the ABS pump, and I feel like it's a little early for a failure like this.

    8. Member Tcardio's Avatar
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      Mar 19th, 2009
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      75 Drayton Place, London
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      3,522
      12-01-2016 04:36 PM #7
      Crank it and set idle at 2000. If it jumps around then you need the dsg upgraded. There is a tsb and fix


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      I hate cupholders

    9. Member TBomb's Avatar
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      Sep 23rd, 2009
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      Dallas, TX
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      2007 Audi A3 2.0T
      12-01-2016 04:47 PM #8
      Quote Originally Posted by Tcardio View Post
      Crank it and set idle at 2000. If it jumps around then you need the dsg upgraded. There is a tsb and fix


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      Wat?

    10. Member GohnJallo's Avatar
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      Sep 20th, 2016
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      South Jersey
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      135
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      2006 A3 3.2L S-line, 1985 BMW 325e coupe project
      12-01-2016 08:42 PM #9
      Quote Originally Posted by Tcardio View Post
      Crank it and set idle at 2000. If it jumps around then you need the dsg upgraded. There is a tsb and fix


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      When were the DSG software updates first issued? I'm curious if I could benefit from it (if my car doesn't have it). It isn't acting up but would prefer the up-to-date software.
      Quote Originally Posted by MisterJJ View Post
      Or maybe a partially clogged orifice.

    11. Member
      Join Date
      Jul 27th, 2005
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      Ramona, CA
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      '06, A3 2.0t, Sport
      12-01-2016 09:21 PM #10
      Quote Originally Posted by GohnJallo View Post
      When were the DSG software updates first issued? I'm curious if I could benefit from it (if my car doesn't have it). It isn't acting up but would prefer the up-to-date software.
      I know of only one update that was for the early models. Does your car display the current gear even when you are in Drive? If not, you have the update.

      That update was for a temperature sensor that had some small chance of going bad and it simply disabled the temperature sensor. In other words... Audi did not want to do an expensive fix when the sensor failed so they chose to simply disable it so you would never know. For some unexplained reason the update also removed the current gear display while in drive. I told the dealer that they absolutely will not remove the display feature on my car without my consent so they skipped the update on my car.
      Quote Originally Posted by MachnickiA3 View Post
      stick that in your "fleshy patch"

    12. Member GohnJallo's Avatar
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      Sep 20th, 2016
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      2006 A3 3.2L S-line, 1985 BMW 325e coupe project
      12-01-2016 09:23 PM #11
      Quote Originally Posted by MisterJJ View Post
      I know of only one update that was for the early models. Does your car display the current gear even when you are in Drive? If not, you have the update.

      That update was for a temperature sensor that had some small chance of going bad and it simply disabled the temperature sensor. In other words... Audi did not want to do an expensive fix when the sensor failed so they chose to simply disable it so you would never know. For some unexplained reason the update also removed the current gear display while in drive. I told the dealer that they absolutely will not remove the display feature on my car without my consent so they skipped the update on my car.
      Yeah my car displays what gear I'm in even when in drive. And prefer it that way so I guess I'm not getting the update lol. Thanks.
      Quote Originally Posted by MisterJJ View Post
      Or maybe a partially clogged orifice.

    13. Member
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      Mar 21st, 2014
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      Tennessee
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      120
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      2006 A3 6MT 2.0T
      12-04-2016 07:52 PM #12
      @Tcardio - I have the single, foot actuated clutch

      Also- it fixed another random electrical gremlin- my left turn signal used to blink fast like a bulb was burnt out for the first 5-7 blinks, and after that would work perfectly. Now it works the right way every time.
      Last edited by A3REDT; 12-04-2016 at 07:55 PM.

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