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    1. Member Zman86's Avatar
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      06-02-2016 09:22 AM #51
      It needs new tires, so I'll look further into the proper ones for it. Believe it has old Michelin LTX's on it now.

      I will go through all the connectors and grounds. There's a few interior lights that are not working, when you signal both indicators on the dash flash, signal stat is pretty floppy so it will probably be replaced. The foam seal on the engine tin is in pretty poor shape as well, the engine bay in general is a mess. Probably going to pull the engine and reseal the tins before any major trip. Have to look into some type of oil temp gauge as well, probably the berg dipstick one unless there is any other suggestions.

      As for the Valvecover gasket, I didn't even think of a pcv issue being the cause. It has some sort of aftermarket billet catch can thing rigged up on it, I'll take pictures tonight and see what you guys think.
      Last edited by Zman86; 06-02-2016 at 09:45 AM.

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    3. Member Stromaluski's Avatar
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      06-02-2016 09:34 AM #52
      Quote Originally Posted by .LSinLV. View Post
      100% agree with having some sort of fire suppression system. I went with the blazecut for my bus. I lost one bus due to an engine fire and would prefer not to lose another.

      Quote Originally Posted by Zman86 View Post
      I fixed my first aircooled problem tonight. The valvecover gasket somehow was pushed up in the bottom right corner. A dab of silicone to keep it in place till new gaskets arrive solved the large leak. Now to clean all the oil out of the entire left outside corner that's on everything.

      Also replaced one of the dead batteries with my trusty Optima red top that's been in every vehicle I've owned since '08. Fired right up. Plan is to replace both batteries with Optimas when we have the money. Also have to talk to the guy who wired in the solar panel to see what it's all about. There's a digital controller in the engine compartment that doesn't seem to be working.
      I'm not sure if it would be the same for a type 4 as well, or not; but I always had terrible luck with the fitment of the cork valve cover gaskets on type 1 engines. Best fitting ones I found were the rubber ones by FelPro that I got through the local AutoZone. Granted, it's been a year and a half since I've changed one since my bus has been on jackstands for a year now.

    4. Geriatric Member Air and water do mix's Avatar
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      06-02-2016 09:55 AM #53
      Quote Originally Posted by Zman86 View Post
      It needs new tires, so I'll look further into the proper ones for it. Believe it has old Michelin LTX's on it now.

      I will go through all the connectors and grounds. There's a few interior lights that are not working, when you signal both indicators on the dash flash, signal stat is pretty floppy so it will probably be replaced. The foam seal on the engine tin is in pretty poor shape as well, the engine bay in general is a mess. Probably going to pull the engine and reseal the tins before any major trip. Have to look into some type of oil temp gauge as well, probably the berg dipstick one unless there is any other suggestions.

      As for the Valvecover gasket, I didn't even think of a pcv issue being the cause. It has some sort of aftermarket billet catch can thing rigged up on it, I'll take pictures tonight and see what you guys think.
      That both are flashing is normal. For decades there was only one flasher indicator on the dash and it had arrows that pointed both directions! This even made its way into the water-cooled cars and was one of the few carryovers from the air cooled era. I was kinda sad to see it go. C'est la vie.


      I don't think you have any kind of actual PCV valve, but it likely has a couple of hoses and they could be kinked or collapsed.

      The seal from the bottom of the engine to the top needs to be in good shape, as any hot air coming from the bottom will get sucked into the fan and it will get hotter and hotter. On Type 1s Gene Berg found that a 1" gap in the seal would raise the head temperature as much as 50ºF! I think the Type IV relies less on the seal than a Type 1 does, but it's still imperative and it's much easier to change in a Type IV than in a Type 1, so get that done!

      By "Berg Dipstick" do you mean the one that flashes the oil light if it gets too hot? That's a pretty good one from what I've read.
      Quote Originally Posted by Boyz in da Park
      Proletariat, Bourgeoise - Everybody smellin' my potpourri...

    5. Member syncro87's Avatar
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      06-02-2016 11:51 AM #54
      Quote Originally Posted by GoHomePossum View Post
      So basically, it's the wurst possible choice for a vehicle to travel the country in
      Depends on your priorities. Sometimes there is more to a trip than what pencils out most efficiently on paper.

    6. Member Zman86's Avatar
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      06-02-2016 10:06 PM #55
      Spent two hours cleaning it tonight, God only knows how many people have gotten it on in this thing, and it's probably never been disinfected. Some photos...










      This seat, ugh...



      Found everything required to keep a bus alive in the back!





      Some funky sticker in the pop top


      And after, no pics of the back cause it looks the same




      The roof...



      Test patch scrubbed and wiped, should clean up alright



      Tucked away for the night, may have it licensed tomorrow!

      Last edited by Zman86; 06-03-2016 at 10:12 PM.

    7. Member Zman86's Avatar
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      06-04-2016 07:03 PM #56
      Well, didn't end up getting the paperwork in order, so no driving it this weekend. I did however scrub the roof and canvas with Spray-9. Took 2.5 hours, but came up pretty good! There was literally things growing up there...





      Also did a full wash in the exterior, cleaned the glass, rain gutters, etc. I don't think this thing had been cleaned in a very long time.



      Cool aftermarket exhaust. Needs to be resealed. Will probably have it ceramic coated this winter.



      Priced out LT195/75r14 tires through work, $255/each! Guess what's not happening. Have not been able to find any used ones, so looks like we will be ordering online. Need to find another wheel for a spare. Since there's nowhere in the interior to put a spare, I want to see if I can find a company in Ontario that makes luggage racks so I can get something made for the rear that will hold the spare and a toolkit


      As soon as I have the spare money, I'll be ordering a fire suppression system, a new foam seal for the engine compartment, all new tierod and balljoint boots (they don't have any play but all the boots are ripped), and new shocks. Looking for recommendations for engine and transmission oil as well. May take a while getting it where we want it. as buying this thing and getting it here pretty much left us broke, but we will get it there eventually.
      Last edited by Zman86; 06-04-2016 at 07:10 PM.

    8. Member
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      06-04-2016 07:15 PM #57
      14" tires are getting hard to find these days. Most will have to "special order", hence the price. Might as well stick with tire rack

      http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....omCompare1=yes

    9. Member r_fostoria's Avatar
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      06-04-2016 11:13 PM #58
      I love this thread! I saw that '57 Chevy at first and thought "Ah man, that seems like a downgrade," but then got down to the bus and changed my mind. I want one. They're both awesome.

    10. Member Zman86's Avatar
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      06-04-2016 11:22 PM #59
      We miss the Chevy, but the car had a lot of negativity attached to it. It was cool to look at, but that's about it. This is much more useable and enjoyable for the both of us.

      Here's a pic of the crankcase vent setup someone asked about earlier.



      There is a large solar panel on the roof that is supposed to keep the batteries charged while stationary. It is hooked up to this controller in the engine bay. No amount of button pushing seems to make it do anything.



      Found out it was used in a Kijiji commercial out in BC!

      https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ASwgQ7mPlrk
      Last edited by Zman86; 06-04-2016 at 11:40 PM.

    11. Geriatric Member Air and water do mix's Avatar
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      06-05-2016 12:48 AM #60
      The spare stands upright in that well where the parts and tools were. It originally had a plastic cover, too.

      She cleans up nicely!
      Quote Originally Posted by Boyz in da Park
      Proletariat, Bourgeoise - Everybody smellin' my potpourri...

    12. Member njn63's Avatar
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      06-05-2016 01:18 AM #61
      Looks like that controller wouldn't be too expensive to replace, although the country of origin might be part of why it failed.
      http://www.ebay.com/itm/Viewstar-EPs...oAAOxycgVThYaE

      I've always wanted to travel the country in one of these. I need to get on it sooner rather than later.

    13. Geriatric Member Air and water do mix's Avatar
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      06-05-2016 10:17 AM #62
      Quote Originally Posted by njn63 View Post
      I've always wanted to travel the country in one of these. I need to get on it sooner rather than later.
      Early models are not far less attainable than they once were, but late models can still be found at bargain prices on occasion. As I said, they're a much better drive, too.
      Quote Originally Posted by Boyz in da Park
      Proletariat, Bourgeoise - Everybody smellin' my potpourri...

    14. Member kamzcab86's Avatar
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      06-05-2016 01:48 PM #63
      Congrats on joining the VW camper club!

      Quote Originally Posted by Zman86 View Post
      There is a large solar panel on the roof that is supposed to keep the batteries charged while stationary. It is hooked up to this controller in the engine bay. No amount of button pushing seems to make it do anything.
      The controller most likely overheated being in the engine bay. When you get a new one, mount it as close to the battery as possible, but in the interior of the Bus where it will get adequate airflow.

      If you get the same controller, here's the operation manual for it: http://oldbluesblog.com/files/PWM10LCD-Viewstar.pdf .
      Cabby-Info.com -- Your online guide to VW Cabriolets/Rabbit Convertibles
      Old Blue's Blog -- The adventures of a 1990 Westfalia
      "Fashion is a waste of money that could be better spent on, say, maintaining your car." ~James May

    15. Member Zman86's Avatar
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      06-05-2016 02:06 PM #64
      Looked up the controller last night, was glad to see its not expensive. It will definatly be moved out of the engine bay, all the wiring for it and the inverter needs to be redone anyways, as it's all pretty shoddy.

      Also need to figure out a stereo, it has a sub under the bed with four 6.5" component speakers, but no head unit aside from the original. Can't roadtrip without tunes!

    16. Member Stromaluski's Avatar
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      06-06-2016 08:09 AM #65
      Quote Originally Posted by Air and water do mix View Post
      As I said, they're a much better drive, too.
      That is entirely dependent on who you are talking to. I've driven a lot of both and much prefer how a split drives over a bay. Split windows feel more connected to the road, IMO.

    17. Member Zman86's Avatar
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      06-06-2016 09:25 PM #66
      Tried degreasing the engine tonight so I can get a handle on the location of any oil leaks, but it's going to need something more powerful than a garden hose and a can of degreaser. Here's the before, I didn't take an after.



      I'm having much trouble deciphering all the information regarding heater boxes. Looks like everything under this thing to do with the heating system is rotten/inoperable. We live in Canada, but the bus probably won't be seeing use after October/before May, so not having heat is really not a big issue. One side of the fence is against deleting the heater boxes, the other side for it, what's the opinion here?

    18. Member jaweber's Avatar
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      06-06-2016 09:36 PM #67
      You'll be traveling the continent in this thing... The weather can do funky things, I say heat is a must! Even if it is the aircooled Volkswagen equivalent of heat
      Is there any kind of camp heater installed for when you're stopped, or is this truly a the bus will have zero heat scenario?

      Also: In before professional advice from people who actually have experience with the matter and whose opinions you should trust over mine
      Quote Originally Posted by petethepug View Post
      If I've just encountered 25 years of Corrado knowledge meeting enthusiastic, civilized interaction on the Vortex, there's a renaissance going on.
      Quote Originally Posted by mateok View Post
      Knowing the Corrado would become angry at me for attempting to fix something so minor and retaliate with a catastrophic failure, I ignored it.
      Quote Originally Posted by mateok View Post
      The Corrado can smell your fear, so you just jinxed yourself.

    19. Member Zman86's Avatar
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      06-06-2016 09:48 PM #68
      There is no heater installed, though I'm sure if we need it, some small electric heater would suffice. The heater fan in the engine bay is missing already, so I'd have to source that. New heater boxes are $500/each, and a set of CSP stainless Jtubes are $770, so they are not far off in cost, though the Jtubes vastly simplify the underside.
      Last edited by Zman86; 12-10-2016 at 10:54 PM.

    20. Member cplessl's Avatar
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      06-06-2016 09:54 PM #69
      The tires you need (proper load rating) are available in Europe quite readily, and it seems some of the Bus parts places bring them over - little more reasonable that $255/ea!

      http://www.busdepot.com/RA18/

    21. Geriatric Member Air and water do mix's Avatar
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      06-06-2016 11:41 PM #70
      Quote Originally Posted by Stromaluski View Post
      That is entirely dependent on who you are talking to. I've driven a lot of both and much prefer how a split drives over a bay. Split windows feel more connected to the road, IMO.
      With those mega-heavy reduction boxes and swing axles, I'm gonna say no. I've driven both, and they're not even close. Those clunky reduction boxes are great in some ways, but being connected to the road sure isn't one of them.
      Quote Originally Posted by Boyz in da Park
      Proletariat, Bourgeoise - Everybody smellin' my potpourri...

    22. Geriatric Member Air and water do mix's Avatar
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      06-06-2016 11:51 PM #71
      The likely source of the oil leaks are the pushrods tubes, but unlike the Type I they're a cinch to fix. In your case you'll be able to remove the valve cover, pull the rocker assembly and the pushrods and pushrods tubes are pulled out the top. That's much easier than pulling the engine, doing all of that and then yanking off the tinware and heads!

      Also, watch the torque with the oil drain plate. It doesn't need or want much and too much can snap off the bolt receiver (I can't remember the terminology) and that necessitates engine teardown!
      Quote Originally Posted by Boyz in da Park
      Proletariat, Bourgeoise - Everybody smellin' my potpourri...

    23. 06-07-2016 08:42 PM #72
      Quote Originally Posted by Zman86 View Post
      There is no heater installed, though I'm sure if we need it, some small electric heater would suffice. The heater fan in the engine bay is missing already, so I'd have to source that. New heater boxes are $500/each, and a set of CSP stainless Jtubes are $770, so they are not far off in cost, though the Jtubes vastly simplify the underside.
      Wait, I'm sorry...$770 for Jtubes?? I know they're stainless but wow!

    24. Member Zman86's Avatar
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      06-07-2016 10:08 PM #73
      CSP stuff seems to be really expensive, I found another nice stainless set for $349 from Vintage speed or something.

      The pushrod tubes are damp, figured they would be.

      Started on some maintenance tonight, first off was draining the oil.



      Some coagulated moisture and crud. Yum



      Piece of rubber in the screen, can't be good




      I love the smell of old gear oil



      After much internet research, I Went with Royal purple for the trans and Castrol 20w50 for the engine. I've always used Castrol oil, and this always seems to be mentioned in any oil article I've read.



      The clutch didn't feel all that great, so I read the procedure and went to adjust it only to find the adjuster maxed out. Cable looks newer, so it shouldn't be stretched. I wanted to avoid pulling the engine till it was off the road till next season, but looks like it may have to be a bit earlier




      LR shock pulled off by hand. Also feels blown. I'm currently saving for a set of Koni's



      Mind the oil, it was from the leaky valve cover.

      Have some photos of the underside/rust, but they will have to wait till tomorrow.
      Last edited by Zman86; 06-07-2016 at 10:12 PM.

    25. Geriatric Member Air and water do mix's Avatar
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      06-07-2016 10:40 PM #74
      The chunk of rubber looks like a pushrods tube seal, so that makes perfect sense. Castro is good, but modern oil no longer has ZDDP in it. ZDDP is mostly zinc and lubricates the lifters. Modern engines all use roller lifters so they could remove the ZDDP, as it coats catalytic converters and they lose efficiency. You can add some back in with Lucas products and it's probably available other ways as well.

      Royal Purple should be great for gear oil.

      As far as the clutch cable goes, there's a Bowden tube that is the flex you rubber tube between the metal clutch cable tube in the chassis and the bracket that holds the other end of it where the adjusting nut is. If the cable is new and doesn't have any adjustment then it either needs to be shimmed out with large washers so there's more of a "dip" to it or possibly replaced. If you get clutch chatter too little dip is often the cause, as that's there to account for engine/trans movement.

      Here it is from what looks to be the Beetle factory manual:



      Oh, and I've used KYB GR2 shocks for several VWs and liked them, so it might get you around while you're saving nickels for those expensive Konis!
      Quote Originally Posted by Boyz in da Park
      Proletariat, Bourgeoise - Everybody smellin' my potpourri...

    26. Member
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      06-07-2016 10:42 PM #75
      Quote Originally Posted by VR6JH View Post
      14" tires are getting hard to find these days. Most will have to "special order", hence the price. Might as well stick with tire rack

      http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....omCompare1=yes
      We got the heavy duty Hankook RA18's for our bus at Discount Tire. They were very competitive with mail order and got them in a few days.


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