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    1. Member Zman86's Avatar
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      1990 Volvo 240 sedan, 1972 VW camper van, 1993 Volvo 240 wagon, 1989 Ford Festiva, 2014 Ford Fiesta
      10-06-2020 09:29 PM #751
      Yet to venture over there yet, but Iíll check it out!

      Enlarged a couple holes in the mounting bracket for the shroud and ended up shimming out one side of the fan. Also washed the engine off with brake clean and washed the shroud. Alignment looks better than before...

      Before cleaning



      After cleaning





      Shroud reinstalled. Nothings tightened up yet as we still have some stuff to do before final assembly.








      Fixed all the exhaust stud holes and test fit a heater box. Unfortunately the studs I bought off Rockauto are too short.







      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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    3. Member Zman86's Avatar
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      Apr 5th, 2010
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      1990 Volvo 240 sedan, 1972 VW camper van, 1993 Volvo 240 wagon, 1989 Ford Festiva, 2014 Ford Fiesta
      10-07-2020 08:33 PM #752
      Noticed some corrosion on the back of the valves on cyl 1, and it appeared that moisture had been in the cylinder at some point, so I pulled the head.






      I donít think this engine has led a great life, will be interesting to see how/if it runs once together.


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    4. Member Stromaluski's Avatar
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      Greenville, SC
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      '67 Deluxe Bus, '80 Rabbit Truck, '92 Corrado, '01 S8, '13 CC
      10-08-2020 09:22 AM #753
      Quote Originally Posted by Zman86 View Post
      Fixed all the exhaust stud holes and test fit a heater box. Unfortunately the studs I bought off Rockauto are too short.



      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      This is out of that split bus, right? What heater boxes are you using?

    5. Member Zman86's Avatar
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      1990 Volvo 240 sedan, 1972 VW camper van, 1993 Volvo 240 wagon, 1989 Ford Festiva, 2014 Ford Fiesta
      10-08-2020 11:31 AM #754
      Quote Originally Posted by Stromaluski View Post
      This is out of that split bus, right? What heater boxes are you using?
      Ones off a Ď73. Have a set of homemade headers that came with it, but their rough...


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    6. Member Zman86's Avatar
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      10-08-2020 07:49 PM #755
      Took the valves out today to check for any pitting in the valve sealing service. All was good, so a quick lapping/cleaning later...







      Back on with the head



      Hereís the homemade headers the engine came with, they are pretty crude, however they fit much better than the Bay heater boxes. Might give them a try and see if they seal, who knows...






      I guess I should be clear, Iím not holding out much hope for this engine, itís more of a learning experience. The owner doesnít want to put much money into it until he knows itís good, and I wonít know if itís good until I fix all the issues with it so I can run it. Guess we will see how it goes!


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      Last edited by Zman86; 10-08-2020 at 07:54 PM.

    7. Member Stromaluski's Avatar
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      10-09-2020 08:52 AM #756
      Quote Originally Posted by Stromaluski View Post
      This is out of that split bus, right? What heater boxes are you using?
      Quote Originally Posted by Zman86 View Post
      Ones off a Ď73. Have a set of homemade headers that came with it, but their rough...

      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      Quote Originally Posted by Zman86 View Post
      Hereís the homemade headers the engine came with, they are pretty crude, however they fit much better than the Bay heater boxes. Might give them a try and see if they seal, who knows...

      I guess I should be clear, Iím not holding out much hope for this engine, itís more of a learning experience. The owner doesnít want to put much money into it until he knows itís good, and I wonít know if itís good until I fix all the issues with it so I can run it. Guess we will see how it goes!

      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      Being in a split bus, you'll have trouble using any exhaust setup other than the one that was already on it. Type IVs always came with the entire cooling system hanging off the front of the motor (making it considerably longer than an upright cooled engine) and the exhaust is made to account for the length. So any stock type IV exhaust is going to be a good number of inches too long, putting the exhuast out behind the bumper. That is actually one of the biggest reasons that my bus never had a type IV in it. I went as far as buying an engine and the DTM and everything, but at the time, nobody made an off the shelf exhaust setup to fit a split bus and I wasn't in a position to start modifying anything. At this point, there are companies that make type IV exhaust systems for a bus, but they're $$$$. The other option is to modify parts to shorten them, which is what looks like happened with those headers.

    8. Member Zman86's Avatar
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      10-13-2020 10:22 PM #757
      The owner currently has the homemade headers at work truing up the flanges. I think they will seal up with a bit of work.

      The old pushrod tube seals were a mess


      Cleaned up



      New seals arrived from Rockauto today



      Since the seals came in early, I threw it back together after work. Resealed the strainer basket and plate as well while it was flipped over.




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    9. Geriatric Member Air and water do mix's Avatar
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      10-14-2020 08:59 AM #758
      I missed this earlier. The valve stems are a bit worrisome. They look like they're starting to narrow, so if you want to rely on it long term (which has yet to be determined) I'd replace the exhaust valves and check the play in the guides. Loose guides allow the valve to rock back-and-forth and bend the head over time, which narrows the stem close to the head eventually stretching beyond its ability to stay in one piece. This is why you replace them if the valves get tighter consistently, as that's a tell-tale for valve stretching.

      Oh, and paint those ugly green parts!
      Quote Originally Posted by Boyz in da Park
      Proletariat, Bourgeoise - Everybody smellin' my potpourri...

    10. Member Stromaluski's Avatar
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      10-15-2020 09:39 AM #759
      Quote Originally Posted by Air and water do mix View Post
      Oh, and paint those ugly green parts!
      Glad I wasn't the only one thinking that!

    11. Member Zman86's Avatar
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      10-15-2020 10:22 AM #760
      Quote Originally Posted by Air and water do mix View Post
      I missed this earlier. The valve stems are a bit worrisome. They look like they're starting to narrow, so if you want to rely on it long term (which has yet to be determined) I'd replace the exhaust valves and check the play in the guides. Loose guides allow the valve to rock back-and-forth and bend the head over time, which narrows the stem close to the head eventually stretching beyond its ability to stay in one piece. This is why you replace them if the valves get tighter consistently, as that's a tell-tale for valve stretching.

      Oh, and paint those ugly green parts!
      Iíve checked the valve adjustment and everything seems ok, but I will admit these heads have seen better days...

      Top side assembled. Belts not perfectly aligned but itís the best I can get it, will see if it chucks it off while running.





      Started installing the new CB performance linkage. This linkage was ordered after much research and talking with CB/reading the Raby FAQ. Unfortunately itís not going to work without extending the mounting points for the hex bar outward. The owner is a tool and die maker, so Iím going to give the air cleaner bases to him and see if he can machine me up some sort of spacer to get the bar away from the shroud.







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      Last edited by Zman86; 10-15-2020 at 10:28 AM.

    12. Member Zman86's Avatar
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      10-17-2020 04:26 PM #761
      Last hurrah and basically first camping trip this year up in the Parry Sound area before the bus goes into storage next weekend.





















      Got to drive my first beetle!



      Busses everywhere













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    13. Member Stromaluski's Avatar
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      Yesterday 09:48 AM #762
      Quote Originally Posted by Zman86 View Post
      Started installing the new CB performance linkage. This linkage was ordered after much research and talking with CB/reading the Raby FAQ. Unfortunately itís not going to work without extending the mounting points for the hex bar outward. The owner is a tool and die maker, so Iím going to give the air cleaner bases to him and see if he can machine me up some sort of spacer to get the bar away from the shroud.





      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
      It's been a while, but I believe the DTM kit comes with a little "bracket" to correct this. You basically just need a rectangular piece of plate with 3 holes in it. Two to bolt it to the air cleaner base, and then a third hole half an inch or so out toward the front of the motor to accept the ball stud for the linkage. There's barely any pressure on the ball stud, so the plate doesn't need to be particularly thick.

      The sync-link setup is a much better linkage design than the hex bar setup from what I hear, though.

      https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifi...php?id=2169636

    14. Member Zman86's Avatar
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      Yesterday 10:42 PM #763
      Ya, Iíve read that the sync is pretty awesome, however the owner didnít want drop the money on one. Iíll make something up this week.

      Some more pictures from this weekend...













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