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    1. Member
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      2012 Audi A3
      11-19-2019 06:24 PM #301
      A small update: got the sub-frame re-installed. Removal shouldn't be necessary, but I found it impossible to put the transfer case back in with the subframe just lowered. It was no problem with it out of the way.


      Getting it lined up on the steering rack is the hardest part, IMO.










      And installed:









      Sorry the pics are kind of garbage... the lighting in my garage is not the best. I thought I would have this done on Sunday, but as usual, kids and other obligations interrupted. The hardest part is done; now I just need to button up the rest of the front suspension, drain / fill the transmission, and get the battery cable lined up and connected.

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    3. Member
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      11-19-2019 06:29 PM #302
      Kids and other obligations, story of my life.

      Excited for you!


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    4. Member
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      11-23-2019 11:04 PM #303
      Got a bunch done and should be able to drive the car soon! Actually, I could drive it now, but it's been raining here all day. I would prefer to do a shakedown run in dry weather so that it's easier to discover any leaks.

      First, I got the transmission fluid filled. So much easier with a funnel that has an integrated 12" tube. While I was there, I installed a magnetic drain plug in the transmission. Yes, the transmission has a magnet inside, but unless you drop it and crack it open, you're never going to clean it or see what's there.


      Drain plug:









      Filling the transmission:









      So I think this is actually going to be the last surprise from Hack Forest Industries:









      You can see where they just chugged away on an impact when re-installing the transmission mount. Those threads aren't supposed to be there on the mount side. Instead of getting the mount lined up properly and threading in the bolts by hand, and then tightening to spec, they just shoved everything in as fast as possible and pressed down with an impact when it didn't fit right. That's why the mount was sitting crooked before. The mounts are slotted to allow for some adjustment. It takes all of 5 extra minutes to support the engine / trans from above and then use a jack to get the transmission mount lined up underneath.


      Here's what it should look like, and what mine looks like now:









      Also, I think I'm going to mount the catch can here, at least for now:









      I also got the battery routed to where I want it. It now crosses over the rear diff / subframe and enters directly into the battery box. I used a 1" hole saw and added a grommet:









      I also left some length in case I need / want to adjust it in the future. I used a clamp style terminal, instead of solder lugs for this reason. This is the end result in the battery box:









      Car's back on the ground, feels good. Can't wait to drive it. (And wash it, it's filthy)










      Also, the custom headlights. I can't get a good pic with my iPhone that does these justice, but they're really good. I tried in the dark but the glare was worse.











      DRL LEDs with a LED backlight for the projector. I tried taking a pic with the lights actually on, but all you can see is a white blob from the light. When I get a chance I'll shoot a pic with the lights shining on something so you can get an idea of the cutoff and brightness.


      That's it for now. I have a couple suspension upgrades in the works and then it'll be just driving and enjoying the car for a while.

    5. Member
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      12-01-2019 09:53 AM #304
      Rear suspension upgrades:

      I got the 034 spherical rear trailing arms and rear lower control arms with poly bushings. I got the entire trailing arm because I don't own a shop press and didn't want to have to mess with melting out the rubber and then trying to press the bearings in. For the lower control arms, they were pretty rusty and crusty, and it was a time saver to only have to swap over instead of pressing things in and out.

      New on top, old on bottom:









      A note on removing / installing these: The one time use pin / rivet (part number 1K0 609 600) to hold in the parking brake cable bracket is ridiculous. Supposedly you can drive it out using a pin punch. After two hours of trying this on one side, I decided to use a chisel and brake off the sides around the center. Seriously, Subaru axle roll pins are easier to get in and out. Once I got that out, the rest was pretty easy. When I put it back in, I used an appropriate sized nut / bolt; the only reason I can think of to do it the other way is robots. This was less expensive, and when I need to service these again, I won't have to fight with the rivet to get the trailing arm out.

      The bolt in question:










      That done, I moved on to the rear lower control arms. The install on the driver's side proved to be more difficult than I expected. It is necessary to lower the exhaust as the muffler is in the way.

      Here's what the inner bushing looked like on the driver's side:










      And the new one, powerflex black:
















      I also cleaned up the lower rubber isolation mounts, as those were in pretty rough shape.

      Before:










      After:












      Not perfect, but I'm happy that all that dirt and rust is gone. I also got a case of "while you're in there". Back when I installed the manual shift tower, I had to lower the exhaust to remove the exhaust shield. Well, I tore two of the hangers, and wasn't happy about it. I bought new ones, but they've been sitting on a shelf and I figured since I had to lower the exhaust to get the rear eccentric bolt out, I would go ahead and replace them.

      The tear doesn't look that bad in the pic, but It's pretty bad with weight hanging off of it. New one on the right:









      And installed:









      I also got the car up on ramps and installed the rear endlinks with zero pre-load. The car dives great now. Super pumped about getting all this done. BFI had my car from late May until mid-October, and with a full shop got less done. At least now I can keep it properly maintained.

    6. Member TBomb's Avatar
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      12-01-2019 06:15 PM #305
      Glad to hear that you finally have it back on the road...just in time for winter Although I'm pretty sure you live in the south now so you shouldn't have much to worry about in that regard.

    7. 12-02-2019 09:49 AM #306
      Quote Originally Posted by npace View Post
      Rear suspension upgrades:

      I got the 034 spherical rear trailing arms and rear lower control arms with poly bushings. I got the entire trailing arm because I don't own a shop press and didn't want to have to mess with melting out the rubber and then trying to press the bearings in. For the lower control arms, they were pretty rusty and crusty, and it was a time saver to only have to swap over instead of pressing things in and out.
      You suggest that the trailing arm bushings can be replaced with shepricals? I searched 034's site and couldn't find just the bushings for this. Where can I source these since I have a rust free car and a press?

    8. Member
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      12-02-2019 11:49 AM #307
      Quote Originally Posted by TBomb
      Glad to hear that you finally have it back on the road...just in time for winter Although I'm pretty sure you live in the south now so you shouldn't have much to worry about in that regard.

      Yeah, I honestly miss a lot of things about Northern winters, but I can't lie, it's pretty nice when winter basically means hoodie season. I'm still driving around on performance summer tires; it's been in the high 60's here.



      Quote Originally Posted by SteveKen View Post
      You suggest that the trailing arm bushings can be replaced with shepricals? I searched 034's site and couldn't find just the bushings for this. Where can I source these since I have a rust free car and a press?


      034 used to offer them separately, but you're right, I can't find them on their site. My guess is it was less popular to get just the bearings. ETekTuning has a page for them still, but I'm not sure if they're offered that way anymore. You might also be able to source them from aurora directly.

      https://www.etektuning.com/034-motor...audi-a3-s3-tt/

    9. Member
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      12-12-2019 07:46 PM #308
      So this happened......








      That's the silicone hose from the compressor outlet... with a gaping hole in it. The oil everywhere is coming from the turbo. I got to drive the car for four days before this happened. I knew the turbo was on it's way out, but not this bad. The problem is I can't afford a new turbo right now, so the car is probably going to sit for a month or two.

      If anyone has thoughts on a turbo, let me know. The car was running a garrett GT2867. I'm leaning toward a gen 2 GTX3071R. It's available with a compact compressor housing and will basically drop in where my current turbo is without modification. I think it's the least expensive route as I can still get an upgrade but hold off on a tune as long as I drive conservatively.

    10. Member TBomb's Avatar
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      12-15-2019 05:16 PM #309
      Quote Originally Posted by npace View Post
      So this happened......








      That's the silicone hose from the compressor outlet... with a gaping hole in it. The oil everywhere is coming from the turbo. I got to drive the car for four days before this happened. I knew the turbo was on it's way out, but not this bad. The problem is I can't afford a new turbo right now, so the car is probably going to sit for a month or two.

      If anyone has thoughts on a turbo, let me know. The car was running a garrett GT2867. I'm leaning toward a gen 2 GTX3071R. It's available with a compact compressor housing and will basically drop in where my current turbo is without modification. I think it's the least expensive route as I can still get an upgrade but hold off on a tune as long as I drive conservatively.
      Damn. The hits just keep coming

      Did the turbine grenade itself and some shrapnel cause that hole in the silicone hose? If so, I'd be concerned about what trash may have gotten sent into your intercooler (or worse). Hopefully that isn't the case.

      I've heard great things about the GTX3071R and I think it's a great application for our cars. Supposedly spools plenty fast thanks to the billet compressor turbine and flows nicely. That one would be at the top of my list most likely.

    11. Member
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      12-16-2019 08:19 AM #310
      Quote Originally Posted by TBomb View Post
      Damn. The hits just keep coming

      Did the turbine grenade itself and some shrapnel cause that hole in the silicone hose? If so, I'd be concerned about what trash may have gotten sent into your intercooler (or worse). Hopefully that isn't the case.

      I've heard great things about the GTX3071R and I think it's a great application for our cars. Supposedly spools plenty fast thanks to the billet compressor turbine and flows nicely. That one would be at the top of my list most likely.
      No, the turbine is still intact. The seals blew, and the resulting oil and coolant mixture is what you see all over the place. That got into the threads of the just re-tapped axle cup, and the bolt in the threaded section that I had to completely re-tap backed out after it was covered in oil. That side of the double washer spun around, sheared off, and smacked the turbo outlet hose until it made that nice hole in the picture.

      This is honestly the best result, because if that bolt didn't back out and I didn't notice the leak, the results could have been much worse, and I might be replacing an engine with the turbo.

      And I think I am just going to go with the GTX3071.... it makes the most sense and is only $100 more than a GTX28 series turbo.

    12. Member
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      12-28-2019 04:20 PM #311
      First, I want to wish everyone a late Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year... the holiday season is one of those times that I reflect on how truly lucky I am to be able to pursue a hobby like this and, despite my setbacks, I'm not really mad because, well, this kind of thing comes with the territory when building / modifying / customizing a car.

      Anyway, this is more of a question than an update. I'm just about settled on the new turbo I want, but I'm also looking at fitting / line replacements. For those who haven't followed this and my previous thread, one of the things that's always bothered me about my setup is the oil lines. A few years ago I had to replace the feed line for the third time, so I took the car to a motorsport shop and had a custom feed line made that's been perfect - I plan to re-use that.

      The return line is still the same one however, and it's junk. I'm looking at converting to -an fittings for the plumbing, and will probably do hard lines as the distance between fittings is impossibly short for braided. What I want to know is this: In order to maximize space / clearance, can I tap the drain on the turbo to accept an ORB? This will give me about another 1/2 inch of space / wiggle room and make leaks and maintenance less common but I'm not sure if it's okay or not. If I do the turbo and the upper oil pan, that's an extra inch of room, which would really help. I can't find an answer in my research. If anyone knows or has seen this done (good or bad) I would really like to know.

      I've also thought about having a -10 an male fitting welded onto the turbo, but again, I'm not sure if this is okay or not. I haven't personally seen it, which doesn't make it wrong, but it seems like there's a reason not to do it if it isn't being done.

      Thanks in advance, I appreciate any information anyone has on this.

    13. Member
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      01-26-2020 08:59 PM #312
      No turbo yet, but I have an update and another question, if anyone can answer it.

      So I decided to unwrap the portion of the wiring harness containing the un-used DSG wiring, and well, things sort of snowballed from there:











      Since I was going through the pain of unwrapping and removing wires, I decided to do tuck. Which leads to my question, there is a giant pigtail harness that plugs into the bottom of the fuse box. I've gotten the purple locking mechanism undone, and 28 of the 30 wires out. The last two, however, are giving me trouble. They are the two thick wires at the top section. I can't tell if they use a different locking mechanism than the rest of the wires or if the cheap terminal tools I got off amazon are just not long enough.

      The connector in question is this one, with the pin circled in red:












      It's OEM part number 1K0 937 700 B.


      Other than the wiring, and the turbo, I've got a few more things in the works, but that's it for now. Slow progress is still progress. I hope to be able to get the turbo once my tax return comes in, and plan on having that, as well as the manifold and downpipe ceramic coated.

    14. Member Tcardio's Avatar
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      01-27-2020 09:30 PM #313
      Quote Originally Posted by SteveKen View Post
      You suggest that the trailing arm bushings can be replaced with shepricals? I searched 034's site and couldn't find just the bushings for this. Where can I source these since I have a rust free car and a press?
      aleksracing also has them in rubber and spherical
      I hate cupholders

    15. Member
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      02-01-2020 12:07 PM #314
      Got the pins out.... it turns out that standard vw connector tools aren't long enough for the larger gauge wiring. I didn't have a screwdriver narrow enough to fit into the pin-out portion of the connector housing. The best thing to do is get two long, narrow screwdrivers (cheap ones) and grind / file them down to fit.


      This is what it looks like now:









      Don't mind the battery switch location; that's just there for the time being until I get everything moved out of the way and can mount it permanently where I want it.

      I intend to get this portion of the harness moved into the cabin today. After that, I'll finish removing the remnants of the DSG harness and then start to test route everything to see what actually needs to be extended.

      If anyone decides to tackle something like this, I'll tell you that it's way more intimidating than it is difficult. I ended up labeling connectors on both ends so I could make absolutely sure that everything goes back in the right spot. That said, there's only a couple of connections on the each side that are the same size and could possibly get confused.

    16. 02-13-2020 08:40 AM #315
      Thanks for the info. I red through some of this last night but somehow missed the post about the races.


      Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    17. Member absolutt's Avatar
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      03-10-2020 06:20 PM #316
      Thanks for keeping this topic updated. Good to see the results. And it'll be helpful for those of us who have to delve into it later. This spring, I intend to do a full suspension inspection of all these parts. I've decided to keep my A3 all the way until I'm ready for electric, as it's just behaving far too well to let it go. I really didn't expect to keep it this long. But no regrets & kind of getting sentimental about the thing now.
      Current ►► 2007 A3 2.0T DSG/OS/TP/CW/CP Ocean Blue —— Previous2003 TTQR 225hp Ocean Blue

    18. Member
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      03-19-2020 05:59 PM #317
      It's been a while since I've updated. Still working but nothing exciting.... it's all wiring. I'll post pictures tonight. Got some of the chassis harness extended and run. I haven't started on the engine wiring harness yet, but I did buy an extra one to extend it more easily. I have it running between the engine and transmission where the starter sticks out, then across the front / bottom of the transmission to the frame rail and along the inside wheel arch, then up and into the rain tray where the ECU sits.

      I have no visible wiring from the rain tray into the engine bay. Once I get the wiring done and test that it runs, I have plans to get rid of the ugly coolant bubble. This won't be a full on shave... the chassis harness will still come through the firewall and I have no plans to remove seam sealer, weld holes, spread mud all over the place, or re-paint everything. Just cleaning it up to look a little better while I save for the new turbo / tune.

      Sorry for the lack of pics, I'll try to get out to the garage and snap some tonight.

    19. Member
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      03-20-2020 10:25 PM #318
      A day late, but a few pics to show some progress. Extending and tucking the wiring harness is tedious and time consuming, but it isn't particularly difficult. With everything inside the car, I started separating the wires so they can go where I need them. I'm basically splitting the main chassis harness into three, one for the fusebox, one to go up into the rain tray for the ECU, and one for the engine bay connections.











      Separated. The goop you see on one of the sections is on the all of them; for some reason the wires are covered in an extra sticky butyl , then wrapped in a double thick electrical tape, and then covered in the rubber boot at the portion of the harness that sits in the firewall. I re-wrapped some of the larger portions in some tesa tape, which is really nice stuff. I bought 3 rolls of it because I didn't want to run out mid-project, but so far I've only used about 1/2 a roll.

      Since getting the wires separated, I've slowly started to get everything unwrapped and covered in techflex. That requires de-pinning and heat shrink.... fun!










      I'm sticking with OEM connectors as I see no reason to pour money into special amphenol or deutsch connectors. Here's a completed section, although looking at it makes me think I should redo it so that the heatshrink covers the bottom of the connector to make a sort of boot, completely covering the wire.









      So that's it for now. Nothing exciting or fancy. I'll post a pic of the harness once I get it finished and start plugging things in. I'm also considering a bulkhead pass through or cover to make the section of the harness going back into the bay less obvious. When the wiring is done, I should be in a position to get the new turbo.
      Last edited by npace; 03-21-2020 at 10:17 AM.

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