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    1. 07-10-2019 01:18 PM #1201
      My open road rides are definitely faster than the Neuse because it never fails that I wind up behind a bunch of people and spend appreciable time during the ride going 5mph around people. Or take the corners easy.

      I've done 20mph on a 60mi loop around Falls lake by myself that averages about 50ft per mile elevation. I've basically done the in-town 60 ft per mile A-group ride at over 20 with all the stop signs and lights and getting back up to speed. I say that as lately it feels like I pull a lot, am off the front over the hills, or whatever.

      I can't get speeds up in Umstead because I basically take parts of the bottom of Turkey in the corners at like 5mph. Scared of sliding out or meeting somebody head-on. I'm taking the big G2G and other downhills quicker. I think recently I almost broke 20mph on the westbound G2G.

      I'd bet Samson for a single lap of the big-loop including Turkey would average in mid to upper 200's for most of that route, for 45min. Like, probably 250 to 260w overall average and maybe 280w NP. You ride that route a LOT and from what it appears, you often ride it pretty hard with good handling skills. And have done it for years now.
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    3. Member Samson's Avatar
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      07-10-2019 03:50 PM #1202
      Quote Originally Posted by burnthesheep View Post
      My open road rides are definitely faster than the Neuse because it never fails that I wind up behind a bunch of people and spend appreciable time during the ride going 5mph around people. Or take the corners easy.
      Yeah, you are certainly getting fast on the road. I'm sure I couldn't keep up on those rides. Well, maybe on the drop bar 29er.

      When it comes to Umstead, you just need to trust the tires more. You've got plenty of power. But going a little bit slow sometimes is better than a wreck. Looking at Strava, I've done Turkey Creek 139 times fun way and 47 times the other way. I'm a bit of a creature of habit, I suppose. I'm also not all that much faster there than I was when I started riding it about 5 years ago. Oh well. Maybe I should use my trainer to... train.

    4. Member OttaCee's Avatar
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      07-11-2019 12:53 PM #1203
      Issues with tubeless tires going flat.
      After realizing my training rides are 80% on asphalt, decided to swap out my 40-43c gravel ties to more road oriented. Wanted to keep using tubeless so trying out Maxxis Re-Fuse 32c tubeless ready.

      Setting up the tires was perfect, bead pops and no signs of air leaking (using soap). Add in Stans, reinflate, do my usual tubeless sealing (lay flat each side for 1hr, take 5 min ride). Set pressure to 60psi and go to bed.

      Next day, both tires are flat. Check valves stems and nuts (all tight). Re-inflate, no leaks. Fill and go for a ride, tires are almost flat after 30mins. At a lost what the issue is. Really dont want to go tubes, might have to.
      My wheels are WTB KOM with 21mm inner.
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    5. Member Samson's Avatar
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      07-11-2019 01:19 PM #1204
      Quote Originally Posted by OttaCee View Post
      Issues with tubeless tires going flat.
      Yeah, that's an irritating thing to deal with. I'd suggest inflating the tires to 60psi and then spraying everything down with soapy water. That should tell you where the leak is. If there is no obvious leak, it could be that you need more sealant to get the casing totally airtight. Some casings need more sealant than others. 60psi to almost flat in 30 minutes would indicate a decent leak somewhere(s). It's also possible to have the valve stem nuts too tight, deforming the o-ring. It can't hurt to take those off, inspect the o-ring, clean it all up, and reinstall. My Mavics leak at the stem (which also makes it leak out of the spoke holes) unless they're what I'd consider too loose, but that's what works.

    6. Member OttaCee's Avatar
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      07-12-2019 03:11 PM #1205
      Quote Originally Posted by Samson View Post
      Yeah, that's an irritating thing to deal with. I'd suggest inflating the tires to 60psi and then spraying everything down with soapy water. That should tell you where the leak is. If there is no obvious leak, it could be that you need more sealant to get the casing totally airtight. Some casings need more sealant than others. 60psi to almost flat in 30 minutes would indicate a decent leak somewhere(s). It's also possible to have the valve stem nuts too tight, deforming the o-ring. It can't hurt to take those off, inspect the o-ring, clean it all up, and reinstall. My Mavics leak at the stem (which also makes it leak out of the spoke holes) unless they're what I'd consider too loose, but that's what works.
      UPDATE - You hit the nail on the head. Both tires needed alot of sealant to properly seal up. Front tire sealed perfectly, held air overnight and now 15 hours later. Rear tire bit more a challenge, held air overnight but lost about 30psi. Put the tire in my kids mini-pool, they were not happy and saw the air leak from the stem. Removed the stem cleaned up the crud. Then lightly tighten the stem, insert in the pool, wait for bubbles, adjust, repeat. After 5 mins, no leaks. Set the tire at 60psi, see if it holds overnight.
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      07-12-2019 09:51 PM #1206
      For me, air leaks at the stem are usually due to bad taping. It sounds like your sealant just filled up your tap gaps.

    8. Member Samson's Avatar
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      07-13-2019 10:25 AM #1207
      Quote Originally Posted by OttaCee View Post
      UPDATE - You hit the nail on the head. Both tires needed alot of sealant to properly seal up. Front tire sealed perfectly, held air overnight and now 15 hours later. Rear tire bit more a challenge, held air overnight but lost about 30psi. Put the tire in my kids mini-pool, they were not happy and saw the air leak from the stem. Removed the stem cleaned up the crud. Then lightly tighten the stem, insert in the pool, wait for bubbles, adjust, repeat. After 5 mins, no leaks. Set the tire at 60psi, see if it holds overnight.
      Nice. Hope it holds. I'm sure there's some torque spec somewhere for the stem nuts. I usually snug it down just enough that I can lightly knock the stem around without it leaking.

      If it's a bad tape job, it'll also usually leak air out of some of the spoke holes (since that's what the tape is sealing). Tape doesn't really have anything to do with the stem, aside from maybe making the hole too big and causing a leak there.

    9. Member OttaCee's Avatar
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      07-13-2019 11:00 AM #1208
      Quote Originally Posted by Samson View Post
      Nice. Hope it holds. I'm sure there's some torque spec somewhere for the stem nuts. I usually snug it down just enough that I can lightly knock the stem around without it leaking.

      If it's a bad tape job, it'll also usually leak air out of some of the spoke holes (since that's what the tape is sealing). Tape doesn't really have anything to do with the stem, aside from maybe making the hole too big and causing a leak there.
      Last and final update - Rear tire went flat overnight. Eliminating the stem and leaks at the bead, thinking its just a holy tubeless tire leaking through the sidewalls. Added another 0.5oz sealant (now 2oz total), dipped the tire in the pool, saw TONS of little leaks in sidewalls. Layed the tire flat for 1hr each side, checked for leaks and only 2 leaks on each side. Forcing sealant to those areas, sealed all leaks. Now its wait and see. Eventually im going to send this tire back to Maxxis under warranty, shouldnt be this porous brand new (the other tire had no sidewall leaks).
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    10. Member Samson's Avatar
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      07-17-2019 10:20 AM #1209
      Quote Originally Posted by OttaCee View Post
      Last and final update - Rear tire went flat overnight. Eliminating the stem and leaks at the bead, thinking its just a holy tubeless tire leaking through the sidewalls. Added another 0.5oz sealant (now 2oz total), dipped the tire in the pool, saw TONS of little leaks in sidewalls. Layed the tire flat for 1hr each side, checked for leaks and only 2 leaks on each side. Forcing sealant to those areas, sealed all leaks. Now its wait and see. Eventually im going to send this tire back to Maxxis under warranty, shouldnt be this porous brand new (the other tire had no sidewall leaks).
      That sucks. I do recall my Maxxis tires oozing through the sidewalls pretty early on. I think the only true tubeless tires (non-porous sidewalls) that I have are the Specialized S-Works Turbo 26s on my road bike. I don't think they've ever had sealant. Anyway, I'm sure they all vary, and hopefully Maxxis will take care of you. I've only had to deal with their warranty once (bead separated from sidewall), and they sent me a new one pretty quickly.

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      07-17-2019 11:26 AM #1210
      Quote Originally Posted by OttaCee View Post
      Last and final update - Rear tire went flat overnight. Eliminating the stem and leaks at the bead, thinking its just a holy tubeless tire leaking through the sidewalls. Added another 0.5oz sealant (now 2oz total), dipped the tire in the pool, saw TONS of little leaks in sidewalls. Layed the tire flat for 1hr each side, checked for leaks and only 2 leaks on each side. Forcing sealant to those areas, sealed all leaks. Now its wait and see. Eventually im going to send this tire back to Maxxis under warranty, shouldnt be this porous brand new (the other tire had no sidewall leaks).
      This is a really really stupid question, but you do have the tubeless ready version of the re-fuse, right? Maxxis shows that they make the 32C version of that tire in both TR and non-TR versions that require a tube.

      The only reason I ask is that I've never had a real tubeless tire leak down through the walls that badly. I have had bad tape jobs as I've mentioned before, where the sealant actually seals the spoke holes but can't seal the valve stem hole, but I've never had anything like you've got unless it was a "ghetto tubeless" conversion or a super worn tire.

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      07-19-2019 10:26 AM #1211
      I gave up on tubeless (at least with the Continental Mountain Kings I currently have) for now for this very reason. The sidewalls were just totally porous and no amount of sealant, shaking, flipping, etc would help them.

      They would usually go flat over night but during a long ride I could see it dropping so that's when I stopped messing with it and just put tubes in.

    13. Member A1an's Avatar
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      Today 08:01 AM #1212
      Every single one of my Maxxis tubeless ready tires started major seeping through the sidewalks after about a year. The Chronicles I had were so bad that the Stans was dripping out onto my brake pads (ruined the pads) when the bike was sitting during my shoulder recovery.

      Interestingly, neither my Ravager nor Rambler on my cx have started this and I've had them for maybe two years now at least.


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    14. Member OttaCee's Avatar
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      Today 08:39 AM #1213
      Quote Originally Posted by mrothwell View Post
      This is a really really stupid question, but you do have the tubeless ready version of the re-fuse, right? Maxxis shows that they make the 32C version of that tire in both TR and non-TR versions that require a tube.
      .
      Yes they have TR on the tire. Front tire is perfect, rear continues slowly leak. Suggestion by another gravel rider is to switch to Orange Seal which is a bit thicker and will coat the casting more.
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    15. Member Samson's Avatar
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      Today 08:52 AM #1214
      Quote Originally Posted by OttaCee View Post
      Yes they have TR on the tire. Front tire is perfect, rear continues slowly leak. Suggestion by another gravel rider is to switch to Orange Seal which is a bit thicker and will coat the casting more.
      That is definitely worth a shot. I've been using Continental Revo Sealant for a while now, and it seems to work better than Stan's. It's also less expensive and doesn't smell like death.

      Did you get in touch with Maxxis? I'd imagine a pic of both tires (one fine, one seeping) would be enough for a replacement.

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