7k rpm in 6th at any speed.
yup i went stage 1 today and am doing southbend stage 2 endurance,ae revision breather, and rear main seal Saturday. not a good start to this 1k mile trip.
Error followed coil pack. And they were doing so well. Dealer replaced them on TSB many years ago so they've probably got 120k+ miles on them. Looks like there's another new rev that came out recently, for more $$$, of course.
Started noticing it more this year since it's been colder more often than last... having some issues with cold start on A3 3.2. When it's very cold out (-15C and below), car seems to want to stall but catches itself when starting. Revs would go to 200rpm for a second or two before going back up to 800rpm. Once at 800rpm, it's stable, no bouncing around, doesn't shake, no misfires or codes. No issues when car is warm or outdoor temperature is warmer. Showed mechanic and thinks it maybe engine coolant temperature sensor getting wrong info causing wrong air/fluel mix at statup. Cheap fix if it is indeed the issue. Wonder what else can be. Pump primes, new battery, maybe MAF, dirty injectors (only use Vpower all the time). Posted link on youtube:
hpsims- that sounds exactly like an issue I had when my battery was low on acid of all things. I filled it with distilled water as a Band-Aid and it hadn't come back for the past two months while I waited to have the time to change out the battery. I do see you have a new one, but that's what worked for me.
As for what's wrong with mine- I changed my oil this weekend, and noticed that my CV axle boot had a nice little tear. I've noticed a little extra slack in the driveline for the past two weeks, as well as a noticeable clunk when de/accelerating in sharp right hand corners. So CV time...
turn signals and tail lights all non-functioning.
Now: 2011 BMW 335d, 2011 Audi A3 S-line S-tronic, 2013 Mini Countryman S ALL4 6MT
Prior VWs: '69 Transporter (way not new), '96 TDI Passat (new), '01.5 Passat V6 (new), '03 Passat W8 Wagon (used), '12 JSW TDI (new), 2014 TDi Beetle Convertible 6MT (New)
Just picked up a 2009 2.0T Quattro with 90K miles 3 weeks ago.
Passenger door started vibrating at low speeds/bumps and sounds loose when closing. Door grip broke inside near the unlock button.
Replaced my timing chain tensioner this past weekend and the CV joint is leaking.
Rear Wiper Motor Blues. It has been acting wonky for a long time. I finally figured out how to remove the "boot panel" to access it and the entire inside of the door panel is blue from wiper fluid leaks. It was leaking from all around the seal of the motor. Today I yanked the motor and opened it up and holy crap it is a wonder this thing was working at all. Packed with dirty, sludgy grease and corrosion. I cleaned it up really good but the electrical contacts are just too corroded. It functions but only long enough for a the new one ordered from Amazon UK to arrive. $80 shipped the the door.
Having taillight burnout issues again, happened to many times.
1. When you 2006-08ers were doing the LED tail swap out, you were talking about the resistors, or something like, that you had to install with the Euro tails.
2. October/November of 2010, about 8 month's after I replaced the 2006, I had a battery issue, took it to the dealer. It was dead on their service drive, so they jumped it, couldn't get it to start, and ended up frying the ECU, replaced under warranty.
?? If my battery issue fried the ECU, could it have damaged the resistors(?) in the taillights ???
Taillight and drivers door locked replaced Apr/May 2014 (passenger rear door lock's been going out for years , but still works most of the time)
Taillights April 2015
Taillights June 2015 (also replaced bulb holders)
Taillights January 2016 (right rear hatch light and front right marker light)
Taillights March 2, 2017 (left rear brake light not fixed)
Battery's" Oct'10, Nov'12, Sep'14, and Jul'16
Other possible electrical related:
Thermostat at 55k miles (normal)
DSG Clutches replaced Sept'15
If I didn't like this car sooo much
Any wisdom is appreciated
"Sportback's Rule, Sedan's Drool."
||| Ruby Q - 2009 A3 2.0T Quattro|Aruba Blue|S line|Nav|CW|Conv|Open Sky|PSS10|APR S1|Michelin Pilot A/S3+|K&N |||
||| RIP 03-12-10|76,500 miles|2006 A3 2.0T|Ocean Blue|Open Sky|KW V2|Neuspeed RSB|APR S1|BSH TM|B/S RE760|K&N |||
If you're serious and want to avoid the Subaru bro look, you could probably mount them behind your impact bar so that they aren't seen. The black ones would probably blend in enough that even if you mounted them where they were visible they wouldn't stick out too much. Personally, I don't mind the look of them as long as they're a tasteful color...and it's hard to go wrong with black. Ultimately, you typically make pretty tasteful decisions when it comes to modifying your car so trust your gut and do what makes you happy. Just don't remove the LATCH anchors on the back of your rear seats.
Personally I'd do something like the Wolo 310-2T, which has a nice deep sound, doesn't look like it belongs behind the grille of a 17yr old's del Sol, and is way louder than OEM. It only draws 5amps as well, so it can go right up with the stock wiring and wont need a relay added or anything like most air horns would. This horn is also directional, but I don't think it would give that Pep Boys vibe like the Supertones give if it were behind your grille.
Car was slowly loosing coolant, took it in and they diagnosed it as a leaking waterpump got a Q3 loaner for the meantime
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2013 Audi A3 Titanium Sport (Monza Silver) w/Quattro
|APR STAGE 2+|ATP Downpipe + 42DD Catback|Carbonio Intake|GFB DV+|CTS Throttle Pipe|034 Street Density Motor Mounts|Spulen Turbo Muffler Delete & TOP|AEM W/M Kit|