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    1. Member
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      997 GTS | BMW M2
      09-10-2013 11:59 AM #1
      Hi All.

      I am looking to help reduce the turbo lag on my TTS. My thought is to begin with an Intake (likely Neuspeed P-Flo), Downpipe, and ECU remap.

      Just would like to hear anyones opinion on if this combination of adjustments will help make boost a bit sooner. Or perhaps if there is a better, more efficient way to meet the goal of faster spool and shorter waiting period before the car makes boost.

      Thanks

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    3. 09-10-2013 01:58 PM #2
      I'd recommend to skip the intake and go straight to a larger downpipe with a tune.

    4. Member
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      997 GTS | BMW M2
      09-10-2013 03:10 PM #3
      thanks for the input.

      thats what I ended up just doing. Skipped the intake and ordered a 42DD non catted no res DP. Will go right to stage II and see how things look.

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    6. 09-10-2013 04:14 PM #4
      Might want to consider a Piper Cross replacement filter. Apparently does a good bit of improvement for about $50. I have been told out actual box isn't all bad but the filter is limiting.

    7. Member
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      997 GTS | BMW M2
      09-10-2013 04:42 PM #5
      Hey thanks for the additional info. I would be interested in any measurable differences between the stock and a K&N or Pipercross. Maybe some research into will turn up some numbers someplace. When you mention improvement, do you mean quantifiable improvement or more aural?

    8. Member mattpatt01's Avatar
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      Jun 24th, 2012
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      01' TTQ / 10 TTS
      09-10-2013 04:53 PM #6
      Hey Fined,

      I was just emailing the 42 DD guys, because ive been in the market with my 2010 TTS.
      I am thinking of going more street friendly tho, as I live in a urban area, and dont want too much attention, I was debating between the
      double Res + 200 Cel Hi-flo Cat.
      or
      single Res + Cat... I am trying to avoid that "riced sound" that plagues the streets around my area.

      Do you have the DP yet?
      I saw that you were into my Poll on the Stage II Tune, I think im going Uni... even tho APR took a lead this past weekend on the Polls

    9. Member
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      997 GTS | BMW M2
      09-10-2013 05:44 PM #7
      I spoke with 42DD and put in my order at about noon today. They said my DP will ship by the end of the week with delivery about 3 days after shipping.

      I opted for mild steel rather than the more expensive stainless. My TTS is a daily at this point but once the winter sets in I will be getting a winter beater so I feel comfortable with the mild steel. The gentleman at 42DD advised me he has had the mild steel on his vehicle for 5 years with no issues.

      So for the DP non res non cat it was $475 +20 shipping. Just so you have an idea.. not sure if you got pricing already. The TTS specific downpipe is not featured on their website.

      Since I am maintaining the stock exhaust (besides downpipe) I am not too concerned about the noise level. Once I complete the turbo back system I will likely also switch to being resonated. I live in the city also but as far as I understand.. by leaving the car out of sport mode the exhaust itself will be muted in the first place. So on the street I will plan on leaving the car out of sport mode until I have gotten a DSG tune, resonator, and turbo back.

      I will likely utilize APR for the ECU. What is influencing your decision to go with the Uni?

    10. 09-10-2013 10:49 PM #8
      The 42 dd down pipe is great and sounds great with stock exhaust. Sport does nothing to mute or make it louder. All sport does is tighten up the shifting. The sport button only effects your ride. I had the full 42 dd turbo back on but it was pretty loud so I took the cat back part off and put stock back on. It's still loud but only when you are into it hard. I do have the cat back for sale if anybody interested. $300 shipped. It was on car for 3 days.
      2015 R garage
      2012 TTS garage
      2011 Avant gone
      2007 GTI gone
      2005 S4 gone

    11. Member
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      997 GTS | BMW M2
      09-11-2013 10:31 AM #9
      thanks for the info!

    12. 09-11-2013 08:03 PM #10
      A combustion engine is nothing more than an air pump (air is sucked in, compressed, combustion happens, air gets pushed out). That said, upgrading to a free-flowing downpipe and/or exhaust definitely has obvious and major benefits, but since you've eliminated restriction on that side of the "pump", the system will benefit if you eliminate restriction on the intake side as well. The faster air can be sucked in (without compromising air quality) the better.

      In short, you should upgrade the intake as well, even if it's simply by replacing the OEM filter with a better flowing one.
      07 Imola Red e86 M Coupe

    13. Member
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      Nov 22nd, 2012
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      past TTS/TTRS now 2014 Cayman S Chevy Spark EV Acura RDX
      09-11-2013 08:48 PM #11
      I has a tts for about 4000 miles and the lag on tip n drove me nuts. I bought a sprint booster. It plugs in to the gas pedal and changes the throttle map . It has different settings that you can change it helps a lot . Ultimately I traded it on a RS but it did make it a Lot better . Carl
      http://www.sprintbooster.us/

    14. Member
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      Audi TTS APR Stage 3 GTX2867R, Q5 3.0T
      09-11-2013 08:58 PM #12
      The best mod to fix lag is to run a race gas map, preferably with meth. The added timing helps the engine be more responsive even out of boost.

    15. Member
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      997 GTS | BMW M2
      09-11-2013 10:49 PM #13
      Thanks for the ideas guys. Definitely planning to improve the intake situation also. I decided to do the downpipe and tune first since they are pretty straightforward and well documented enough to be clear on.
      I'm just a little on the fence about the intake since there seem to be a lot of different ways to handle the situation. The OEM solution seems to isolate the intake from the ambient temperatures under the hood but the aftermarket solutions seem to have at least one additional side open. Of course for the CFM numbers those intakes draw more air but I guess my question is.. is more air at a higher temp better than less air at a lower temp?

      I know there is a thermodynamic solution to the question but I am not certain if the question is even valid for this scenario or how the different methods of improving the intake show improvements over one another. It seems like the defacto standard of measuring intake efficiency is by measuring airflow but just cfm numbers alone seem like they would only be a portion of what makes an intake efficient. Im obviously a newb or I wouldn't wonder these things.

    16. Member
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      Audi TTS APR Stage 3 GTX2867R, Q5 3.0T
      09-12-2013 12:25 AM #14
      So the intake restriction really only comes into play once you get in Stage 2+ territory. The stock TTS intake is pretty good. I have a homebrew intake for sale if you're interested. Basically stuff the largest cone filter possible into the stock intake box, and close off the hot engine air pathway from the intake snorkel to make it a true cold air intake. OEM+ and stealth. The setup is for sale in the classifieds: https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...ooler-and-more


    17. Member
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      2011 Audi TT / 2009 Yamaha FZ6
      09-12-2013 11:09 AM #15
      Quote Originally Posted by carl44 View Post
      I has a tts for about 4000 miles and the lag on tip n drove me nuts. I bought a sprint booster. It plugs in to the gas pedal and changes the throttle map . It has different settings that you can change it helps a lot . Ultimately I traded it on a RS but it did make it a Lot better . Carl
      http://www.sprintbooster.us/
      HAHA.

      Come on people. I expected better from TT owners. Do we really fall for these wires with a blinky LED light that make crazy claims?


      What a f***ing joke!

    18. Member
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      997 GTS | BMW M2
      09-12-2013 11:37 AM #16
      thanks arm1tage! I may look at modifying mine too!


      as far as the sprint booster...
      I just stopped trying to comprehend once I reached "It plugs into the gas pedal"

      I think it falls into the category of what some people (at least in the mazda FI circles) call "band-aids". Just a bit of a hack and not a legit full remap.

    19. Member
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      2012 TT-RS
      09-12-2013 12:15 PM #17
      Quote Originally Posted by boarderjcj View Post
      HAHA.

      Come on people. I expected better from TT owners. Do we really fall for these wires with a blinky LED light that make crazy claims?

      What a f***ing joke!
      They're just amplifying the throttle signal, similar to what a throttle remapping in "sport" mode would do. So when I give the car half throttle, their "booster" output is full throttle. This gives the illusion of a faster car (some people like it).

      Would I put it on my car? No. But does it actually do something physically? Yes.

    20. Member
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      Audi TTS APR Stage 3 GTX2867R, Q5 3.0T
      09-12-2013 02:04 PM #18
      those throttle boosters do serve a purpose. say for example you are used to 30% power at 30% throttle depressed, but it only feels like 10% stock. the throttle booster helps that. in my Q5 the throttle is pretty sensitive, but in my TTS it's like on/off so i put one on so i don't have to recalibrate my right foot everytime i switch cars.

    21. Member
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      2011 Audi TT / 2009 Yamaha FZ6
      09-12-2013 03:52 PM #19
      I suppose I became overly consumed with how silly I thought "sprint booster" and any other similar product is. This type of product is certainly not for everyone, but I guess if you like it then great.

      These products are signal amps and one could be home built for ~$15 bucks. If you decide to install such an item, your car may "feel" more responsive than what you are used to, but the same exact experience could be had by driving around with a heavier foot.

      But, these products do not eliminate turbo lag or reduce throttle lag (whatever that is).
      It does not increase HP/TQ.
      It does not reduce your 0-60mph times (although if you have a manual car, and you're more comfortable with this hack, you might shift better... idk).

      Depending on the amplification, you will also lose the last ~30% of your throttle. When you push past 70% throttle, there will be no response because the throttle is already wide open. Basically by reducing 30% of the throttle throw, you can make your car "feel" different.

      Idk if anyone ever uses the kickdown feature on TT's (at least DSG version), but if you do, and you have a sprint booster installed, you will have to travel through dead space to reach it...

    22. 09-13-2013 12:33 AM #20
      Quote Originally Posted by boarderjcj View Post
      I suppose I became overly consumed with how silly I thought "sprint booster" and any other similar product is. This type of product is certainly not for everyone, but I guess if you like it then great.

      These products are signal amps and one could be home built for ~$15 bucks. If you decide to install such an item, your car may "feel" more responsive than what you are used to, but the same exact experience could be had by driving around with a heavier foot.

      But, these products do not eliminate turbo lag or reduce throttle lag (whatever that is).
      It does not increase HP/TQ.
      It does not reduce your 0-60mph times (although if you have a manual car, and you're more comfortable with this hack, you might shift better... idk).

      Depending on the amplification, you will also lose the last ~30% of your throttle. When you push past 70% throttle, there will be no response because the throttle is already wide open. Basically by reducing 30% of the throttle throw, you can make your car "feel" different.

      Idk if anyone ever uses the kickdown feature on TT's (at least DSG version), but if you do, and you have a sprint booster installed, you will have to travel through dead space to reach it...
      If you read up on the Sprint Booster product in particular, it does a little more than just amplify the signal. It depends on the make/model of car, but some electronic pedal assemblies have issues with dead zones caused by differences in the two sensors installed in the pedal assembly. Other assemblies will never actually send a 100% throttle signal to the ECU because of this same issue. The pedal assemblies use two physical sensors to provide redundancy as a safety measure, but some designs tend to have problems due to production tolerances, wear and tear, etc.

      For some makes/models, people have tried to modify the pedal assemblies to remove the dead zones with varying degrees of success. I had a 97 Ford Powerstoke Diesel truck and installed an aftermarket device to augment the pedal position sensor signal sent to the ECU. It really made a difference in the driveability of the truck.

      A number of very reputable Euro focused vendors sell the Sprint Booster devices, so I wouldn't think that they are junk...

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