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    1. Former Advertiser
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      07-21-2013 08:37 PM #26
      Not to thread jack but we got RisR32 a ride in this car this weekend and she was thoroughly impressed compared to her stage 2 TTRS. Solid kit with big numbers and safe.

      If anyone is interested in getting this kit installed send us a message as it looks like RisR32's will be having us install one shortly.

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    3. Forum Sponsor Arin@APR's Avatar
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      07-21-2013 08:47 PM #27
      We're looking forward to it!

    4. Member
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      07-21-2013 09:31 PM #28
      Thanks for the preliminary details, Arin. I'm sure it all be clear once the site pages are up, complete with lots of great part pictures.

      Any introductory sale pricing on the Stage 3? Or how about combo deals of the Stage 3 + intercooler + HPFP (+ RSC exhaust)?

      Oh, and one request for your SW guys: please get the "fully loaded" switching features into the TT-RS! The "valet mode" lock-out is must-have on a Stage 3 car...
      Last edited by Marty; 07-21-2013 at 09:36 PM.

    5. Member RisR32's Avatar
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      07-21-2013 09:47 PM #29
      Quote Originally Posted by Euro Enginuity View Post
      Not to thread jack but we got RisR32 a ride in this car this weekend and she was thoroughly impressed compared to her stage 2 TTRS. Solid kit with big numbers and safe.

      If anyone is interested in getting this kit installed send us a message as it looks like RisR32's will be having us install one shortly.
      Haha thanks Euro Enginuity for getting me that ride!

      The car was pretty awesome. To preface the TTRS at the show was only running on 93 octane with the obvious capability to run race fuel and it still blew me away. It was a huge upgrade from my current STG 2. The power was immediate, turbo lag was unnoticeable, and it was still smooth enough to daily drive. If you have the funds or even if you don't like me, this is still a necessity lol. You will not be disappointed.
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    6. Member
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      07-22-2013 12:13 AM #30
      Obviously far too early to tell, but how do you guys (APR) think the engine reliability will be at these power levels? Would you suggest that a built motor would be required if you're going to be driving the 100RON tune for extended durations?
      Last edited by jibbed; 07-22-2013 at 12:16 AM. Reason: typo
      2010 Audi TTRS (6spd)
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      Mods Milltek Exhaust, Wagner Intercooler, APR Stage 2 ECU, MSS Spring Kit, DaveB AP Rotor Kit, Endless Pads Front/Rear, 034 Motorsport RSB & drop links

    7. Member Williamttrs's Avatar
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      07-22-2013 01:43 AM #31
      Looking forward to getting all the details. What if any internals need/should be changed. What about the tranny and other related parts. I understand the new clutch is a must, but with that kind of power it seems like all the linkage would be under severe stress.

      Also, as has been discussed earlier, the value proposition to sink that kind of money in a car makes a GTR a real option to consider, assuming one likes GTR's and it would fit your lifestyle.

      For me, unless someone can give me strong evidence that I will have similar reliability to stage 2 and there is a low hassle path for me to divest myself without taking a 22K+ bath, stage 3 is probably not in my future. Alternatively, I might consider buying a sedan to put the miles on, but then that would completely go against my philosophy that cars are made to be driven. I don't want a 80K+ garage hog.
      2013 TT-RS, Sepang Blue, Heated Napa Leather, Tech Pac, Upgraded Bluetooth / iPhone Integration, Sport Exhaust, APR Downpipe, APR Stage 2+, APR Intercooler,, G-Tech detail, Huper Optik tint, MSS Sport Springs
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    8. Member
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      07-22-2013 02:22 AM #32
      Quote Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
      We may need to conduct more testing in this area and I will need to check with engineering to ensure I have the latest data. From what I recall, early testing with ideal entrances, thus no filter and the most ideal way to get air into the engine, showed no measurable gain at stage 1 or 2. Intakes likewise also echoed the same results - same or worse than stock.

      Our latest production stage 2 calibrations nearly max out what the turbo is capable of producing, which may introduce some restriction in the system. I need to verify with engineering if the intake was tested at these power levels or not. likely, the intake can serve as something that looks good, sounds good, or could provide some heat shielding shielding beyond that of the OEM for prolonged benefits not easily noticeable on the dyno. But as far as 'big' power gains as some have claimed, I'm not buying it.

      At stage 3 power levels we did test the ideal entrance again and it did produce more power the further we went to towards redline. If I recall correctly, it was enough to max out around 650+ WHP on race fuel, up about 20 WHP in some areas. However, keep in mind this was with an ideal entrance, thus no filter. When I'm back in the office I can check the numbers again.

      We'll conduct testing with the VWR and Carbonio systems to see if they do produce any worthwhile results at stage 3 power levels. The VWR intake is a system that can be sold today if one were to want it. The Carbonio however is not for sale as we have not given Carbonio the thumbs up yet, and their lead times are rather lengthy. This begs the question, if it didn't produce a lot of power, would you still be interested for the other reasons mentioned above?
      Arin, has APR tried running a sealed top air intake,and a pipe from the lower secondary opening from the oem box.
      I've been running a bit of a bodge DIY system on mine over the last few weeks,and it has brought intakes down slightly.
      This is the only system I've tried,where I've actually seen the intakes drop by a couple of c,and the car seems to be more eager at high revs.
      Now I know it brings results, I'll look for a more professional option to buy.
      The manual cars have more room to play with,having no gearbox radiator blocking the path of the lower intake pipe.
      If I get one of your new coolers soon,it would be really interesting to see what intakes are like then.

    9. Member
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      07-22-2013 08:23 AM #33
      Quote Originally Posted by joneze93tsi View Post
      INB4 Dan gets in here with OMGWTF MY SRT4 TURBO ONLY COST 65 CENTS.
      the real question is...does stage 3 require a crash bar???

    10. Forum Sponsor Arin@APR's Avatar
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      07-22-2013 10:21 AM #34
      Quote Originally Posted by jibbed View Post
      Obviously far too early to tell, but how do you guys (APR) think the engine reliability will be at these power levels? Would you suggest that a built motor would be required if you're going to be driving the 100RON tune for extended durations?
      We don't have a 100 RON tune, but if we find the fuel to be much better and in high demand we may be able to tweak our existing calibrations for it. If you ran 100 RON, you'd want to chose our 98 RON calibration. You'll simply get a little more power than we advertise.

      Typically 98, 99 and 100 RON are just "better" than our local 93 AKI fuel, but not the same as our 100 AKI or 104 AKI fuel. I don't believe our pump fuel calibrations will require rods given the stress testing we've endured on the track with much higher octanes.

      104 AKI offers a MASSIVE advantage for power increases and does skirt into an area where we would recommend engine internals for prolonged use. Nearly every APR kit running race fuel comes with our recommendation to do so. We rather you be safe than sorry, even though VAG has upped the quality of their connecting rods considerably around 2008 with the introduction of new DI engines.

      That said, we thankfully haven't seen any issues!

    11. Member Williamttrs's Avatar
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      07-22-2013 12:49 PM #35
      Quote Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
      We don't have a 100 RON tune, but if we find the fuel to be much better and in high demand we may be able to tweak our existing calibrations for it. If you ran 100 RON, you'd want to chose our 98 RON calibration. You'll simply get a little more power than we advertise.

      Typically 98, 99 and 100 RON are just "better" than our local 93 AKI fuel, but not the same as our 100 AKI or 104 AKI fuel. I don't believe our pump fuel calibrations will require rods given the stress testing we've endured on the track with much higher octanes.

      104 AKI offers a MASSIVE advantage for power increases and does skirt into an area where we would recommend engine internals for prolonged use. Nearly every APR kit running race fuel comes with our recommendation to do so. We rather you be safe than sorry, even though VAG has upped the quality of their connecting rods considerably around 2008 with the introduction of new DI engines.

      That said, we thankfully haven't seen any issues!
      Arin,

      I appreciate the perspective, but it seems like the APR opinion is basically just an anecdotal account. I am not saying that to be critical. It just seems to be a fact if you have only tested something like one to three cars for a few months and I guess a few thousand miles. I recognize that to some extent this is the nature of the beast, but it does not engender confidence.

      HOWEVER, in William's perfect world, I would very much like to see some kind of qualified independent analysis of the internals. This could include any or all of the following. 1) verified specs from VAG in terms of what the various parts can handle 2) break down an engine after 10K miles and send off samples for a real stress analysis. 3) Detailed opinion from several independent experts in the racing field. 4) Real dyno results of the exact same car under the same conditions after 10K, 20K and 30K miles. Again, this is my perfect world scenario.

      To whatever degree APR can get some of these things (and whatever else is out there that I am not thinking of), this would increase the chances of my upgrade.

      Having said all that, my other big concern is sunk cost. If someone created a easy path to ensure that I was not just throwing out 22K, plus extra depreciation, then I would be much more likely to purchase this kit.

      One other silly question, has APR ever considered offering some-kind of real warranty. Not just on your parts, but a comprehensive warranty?
      2013 TT-RS, Sepang Blue, Heated Napa Leather, Tech Pac, Upgraded Bluetooth / iPhone Integration, Sport Exhaust, APR Downpipe, APR Stage 2+, APR Intercooler,, G-Tech detail, Huper Optik tint, MSS Sport Springs
      2013 Q5 3.0T,Phantom Black Pearl, S-line trim, Prestige, Sport Pak, 20 inch wheels.
      You can't take it with you!

    12. Member
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      07-22-2013 01:39 PM #36
      If APR will guarantee me the following points I'm willing to buy the kit:
      1) Deliver the kit to APR Romania
      2) Me and the APR Romania dealer will decide where to install the kit (the service)
      3) Me and one APR representative will assist during the installation process (the internals will remain stock as I'm not willing to change them and you say they are not needed).
      4) I pay for installing the kit once finished.
      5) Once the kit is installed on the car I will conduct the testing on the roads with the APR representative in the car and only in his presence (a few consecutive pulls at above 30 grd C from low speed to high speeds + driven hard to ensure everything is ok and the engine can handle the stress) using 98 RON pump fuel --> If the engine blows I kill the APR dealer
      6) I don't drive the car in the absence of the APR representative and I agree to seal the car when not driven so neither me or APR can do anything to it.
      7) After this we take the car to an independent dyno (4x4 mustang) --> The car should achieve at least 520 whp during 3 consecutive runs on 98 RON pump fuel (I think with this 520 whp figure I should cover the difference between a mustang dyno and what your dyno could show ... especially considering that mustang shows pretty close to 340 bhp on a stock car).

      If all points are met I pay for the kit + pay the APR representative for the extra time spent on supervising the process. If the output of the dyno test will be less than 520 whp then ... ? you tell me. A kit advertised with 600 whp should be capable of delivering 520 whp on any dyno (I hope we all agree on this point)

      If APR agrees with this please tell me so we can start the process.

    13. 07-22-2013 01:43 PM #37
      Quote Originally Posted by cipsony View Post
      If APR will guarantee me the following points I'm willing to buy the kit:
      1) Deliver the kit to APR Romania
      2) Me and the APR Romania dealer will decide where to install the kit (the service)
      3) Me and one APR representative will assist during the installation process (the internals will remain stock as I'm not willing to change them and you say they are not needed).
      4) I pay for installing the kit once finished.
      5) Once the kit is installed on the car I will conduct the testing on the roads with the APR representative in the car and only in his presence (a few consecutive pulls at above 30 grd C from low speed to high speeds + driven hard to ensure everything is ok and the engine can handle the stress) using 98 RON pump fuel --> If the engine blows I kill the APR dealer
      6) I don't drive the car in the absence of the APR representative and I agree to seal the car when not driven so neither me or APR can do anything to it.
      7) After this we take the car to an independent dyno (4x4 mustang) --> The car should achieve at least 520 whp during 3 consecutive runs on 98 RON pump fuel (I think with this 520 whp figure I should cover the difference between a mustang dyno and what your dyno could show ... especially considering that mustang shows pretty close to 340 bhp on a stock car).

      If all points are met I pay for the kit + pay the APR representative for the extra time spent on supervising the process. If the output of the dyno test will be less than 520 whp then ... ? you tell me. A kit advertised with 600 whp should be capable of delivering 520 whp on any dyno (I hope we all agree on this point)

      If APR agrees with this please tell me so we can start the process.
      Lol be reasonable.

      Btw since when did you care about dyno numbers? I thought it was all about how it drove on the road.
      Audi TTRS: APR Stage 3+: Race Developments Built Motor, Race Developments Flowed Cylinder Head, APR FMIC, Scorpion Titanium Exhaust, VWR Engine Mounts, VWR Intake, Race Developments Superfinished GearBox, Helix Race Clutch,42Draft Shifter Bushing,Bilstein B16 PSS10, 034 Motorsport ARB,WhiteLine Drop Links,R8 Calipers,Braided Lines,Powerflex Bushes,Mintex 1155 Pads,SRF Fluid, Fusch Titan Pro S Oil, Recaro Pole Positions, Kenwood DNX5210BT.

    14. Member
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      07-22-2013 01:49 PM #38
      Quote Originally Posted by Poverty View Post
      Lol be reasonable.

      Btw since when did you care about dyno numbers? I thought it was all about how it drove on the road.
      I am reasonable: I pay for an APR representative to be present and supervise the entire process so APR will be sure that I don't do any "tricks".
      The dyno part is for measuring and ensuring that APR delivers what is promising ME (actually less than what is promising) and to guarantee THEM that I don't play "unfair" and say at the end that I don't like how the car drives.

      I think I am more than reasonable and fair.

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      07-22-2013 01:55 PM #39
      There were many situations with big turbo engines when the engine blow and the tuner said to the customer that he over-revved or he didn't put good oil, or the kit was not installed correctly or he missed a gear, or whatever reason.

      I'm not willing to play with a 10.000 Euros engine nor willing to pay 11.000 ++ USD for a kit and not be 100% sure that I receive what I expect to.

      Did Revo payed for Cocker's engine?

    16. 07-22-2013 05:50 PM #40
      Quote Originally Posted by cipsony View Post

      If all points are met I pay for the kit + pay the APR representative for the extra time spent on supervising the process.
      So you don't want to pay until everything is installed and running to your satisfaction? Doesn't sounds like you're serious to me. What if you don't pay? I'm sure it's easy for APR to collect bad accounts in Romania

    17. Forum Sponsor Arin@APR's Avatar
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      07-22-2013 06:16 PM #41
      No worries. We're not participating in that rigamarole. I have plenty of people in line dying to get the kit and I believe our time and resources would be better spent elsewhere.

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      07-22-2013 06:28 PM #42
      G'day Arin - thanks for the response re: the motor/internals and race fuel. Must be a tough little motor to be able to handle nearly double the factory power (Even on 93!)!

      Sorry - given this is a US forum - my reference to 100 was the US stuff (whoops!), but appreciate the context re the Aussie 100 in any case.

      Looks like an excellent product guys. Looking forward to seeing it at the strip!

      Quote Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
      We don't have a 100 RON tune, but if we find the fuel to be much better and in high demand we may be able to tweak our existing calibrations for it. If you ran 100 RON, you'd want to chose our 98 RON calibration. You'll simply get a little more power than we advertise.

      Typically 98, 99 and 100 RON are just "better" than our local 93 AKI fuel, but not the same as our 100 AKI or 104 AKI fuel. I don't believe our pump fuel calibrations will require rods given the stress testing we've endured on the track with much higher octanes.

      104 AKI offers a MASSIVE advantage for power increases and does skirt into an area where we would recommend engine internals for prolonged use. Nearly every APR kit running race fuel comes with our recommendation to do so. We rather you be safe than sorry, even though VAG has upped the quality of their connecting rods considerably around 2008 with the introduction of new DI engines.

      That said, we thankfully haven't seen any issues!
      2010 Audi TTRS (6spd)
      Options - 19's titanium blades, Mag Ride, RS Seats, Bose, Extended Leather, AMI, SatNav, Xenons
      Mods Milltek Exhaust, Wagner Intercooler, APR Stage 2 ECU, MSS Spring Kit, DaveB AP Rotor Kit, Endless Pads Front/Rear, 034 Motorsport RSB & drop links

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      07-22-2013 06:32 PM #43
      In fairness - the only way you're going to be able to give real world insights (other than testing kms), is to keep upping the power till the engine fails - and that's a VERY expensive way to do R&D. I think these engines are about 20k? Although I'm sure you'd probably be able to look at Rod length, thickness etc and make an estimate of maximum torque, but it'd just be an educated guess.

      Quote Originally Posted by Williamttrs View Post
      Arin,

      I appreciate the perspective, but it seems like the APR opinion is basically just an anecdotal account. I am not saying that to be critical. It just seems to be a fact if you have only tested something like one to three cars for a few months and I guess a few thousand miles. I recognize that to some extent this is the nature of the beast, but it does not engender confidence.
      2010 Audi TTRS (6spd)
      Options - 19's titanium blades, Mag Ride, RS Seats, Bose, Extended Leather, AMI, SatNav, Xenons
      Mods Milltek Exhaust, Wagner Intercooler, APR Stage 2 ECU, MSS Spring Kit, DaveB AP Rotor Kit, Endless Pads Front/Rear, 034 Motorsport RSB & drop links

    20. 07-22-2013 07:59 PM #44
      It's really not wizardry to figure out how strong these engines are, it is in all effect a slightly stronger 2.0tfsi with a extra cylinder attached. Therefore I am of the opinion 600hp on this motor stock is more than safe going by the history of big turbo 2.0tfsi which have done 60-70k with APR big turbo kits and are still running strong.
      Audi TTRS: APR Stage 3+: Race Developments Built Motor, Race Developments Flowed Cylinder Head, APR FMIC, Scorpion Titanium Exhaust, VWR Engine Mounts, VWR Intake, Race Developments Superfinished GearBox, Helix Race Clutch,42Draft Shifter Bushing,Bilstein B16 PSS10, 034 Motorsport ARB,WhiteLine Drop Links,R8 Calipers,Braided Lines,Powerflex Bushes,Mintex 1155 Pads,SRF Fluid, Fusch Titan Pro S Oil, Recaro Pole Positions, Kenwood DNX5210BT.

    21. 07-22-2013 08:02 PM #45
      Quote Originally Posted by cipsony View Post
      I am reasonable: I pay for an APR representative to be present and supervise the entire process so APR will be sure that I don't do any "tricks".
      The dyno part is for measuring and ensuring that APR delivers what is promising ME (actually less than what is promising) and to guarantee THEM that I don't play "unfair" and say at the end that I don't like how the car drives.

      I think I am more than reasonable and fair.
      You never demanded all of this from Loba?

      And you really expect someone to fit a kit to your car, with the possibility of you turning around and saying you don't want it. What are APR then meant to do with a used kit?

      I guess you will just have to meet up with someone to experience the stage 3 cars or maybe you will make up your mind when the APR stage 3 cars blow away all other stage 3 TTRS at 30-130?
      Audi TTRS: APR Stage 3+: Race Developments Built Motor, Race Developments Flowed Cylinder Head, APR FMIC, Scorpion Titanium Exhaust, VWR Engine Mounts, VWR Intake, Race Developments Superfinished GearBox, Helix Race Clutch,42Draft Shifter Bushing,Bilstein B16 PSS10, 034 Motorsport ARB,WhiteLine Drop Links,R8 Calipers,Braided Lines,Powerflex Bushes,Mintex 1155 Pads,SRF Fluid, Fusch Titan Pro S Oil, Recaro Pole Positions, Kenwood DNX5210BT.

    22. Member Williamttrs's Avatar
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      07-22-2013 10:57 PM #46
      Quote Originally Posted by jibbed View Post
      In fairness - the only way you're going to be able to give real world insights (other than testing kms), is to keep upping the power till the engine fails - and that's a VERY expensive way to do R&D. I think these engines are about 20k? Although I'm sure you'd probably be able to look at Rod length, thickness etc and make an estimate of maximum torque, but it'd just be an educated guess.
      I realize my comments sound a bit wishful, but hey if I don't say what would help me make a decision, then I certainly cannot hope anyone is going to do it. If it were my company, I would listen to all the honest feedback of customers and evaluate if it was possible to give them what they want or come as close as possible. APR is definitely a company that is interested in what its customers want.
      2013 TT-RS, Sepang Blue, Heated Napa Leather, Tech Pac, Upgraded Bluetooth / iPhone Integration, Sport Exhaust, APR Downpipe, APR Stage 2+, APR Intercooler,, G-Tech detail, Huper Optik tint, MSS Sport Springs
      2013 Q5 3.0T,Phantom Black Pearl, S-line trim, Prestige, Sport Pak, 20 inch wheels.
      You can't take it with you!

    23. 07-22-2013 11:58 PM #47
      Quote Originally Posted by Williamttrs View Post
      I realize my comments sound a bit wishful, but hey if I don't say what would help me make a decision, then I certainly cannot hope anyone is going to do it. If it were my company, I would listen to all the honest feedback of customers and evaluate if it was possible to give them what they want or come as close as possible. APR is definitely a company that is interested in what its customers want.
      A couple of ideas:

      Major engine parts like con rods could be tested via computer analysis for a fraction of the price of setting up an engine stand and doing destructive testing. It wouldn't show latent design issues or manufacturing defects (ex: thin/porous engine castings), but it would point out more obvious limits of the typical OEM parts which fail.

      I am very interested to see the bearings in an engine run at stage 3 levels for 10k, 20k, etc miles. Problems with marginal parts like connecting rods can be identified by examining bearings for abnormal wear. If the ends of a connecting rod are starting to stretch, it will show up in the bearings. This is only an example, but E9x M3 4.0L V8's have issues like this which show up at higher power levels. Tearing down a 2.5L TFSI after running at high power levels could show a lot, without requiring a large investment.

    24. Member Williamttrs's Avatar
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      07-23-2013 12:25 AM #48
      Quote Originally Posted by hightechrdn View Post
      A couple of ideas:

      Major engine parts like con rods could be tested via computer analysis for a fraction of the price of setting up an engine stand and doing destructive testing. It wouldn't show latent design issues or manufacturing defects (ex: thin/porous engine castings), but it would point out more obvious limits of the typical OEM parts which fail.

      I am very interested to see the bearings in an engine run at stage 3 levels for 10k, 20k, etc miles. Problems with marginal parts like connecting rods can be identified by examining bearings for abnormal wear. If the ends of a connecting rod are starting to stretch, it will show up in the bearings. This is only an example, but E9x M3 4.0L V8's have issues like this which show up at higher power levels. Tearing down a 2.5L TFSI after running at high power levels could show a lot, without requiring a large investment.
      This is exactly the sort of thing I am getting at. I want something that I have some quantitative data to base an expectation on what I am buying. Dollars are pretty easy for any of us to analyze. But the "black box" we call an engine is more or less a mystery to me. Sure I understand a lot of the basic principles, but I really have no idea if Audi believes the various engine parts and drive train parts can handle nearly double the amount of force as the stock car.

      If it was a simple equation like the following I would be golden. Hypothetical: A typical TTRS will be a reliable car for about 150K miles before needing a major overhaul. A typical stage 3 car with stock internals will last about 50K miles before needing a major overhaul. A typical stage 3 car with beefed up internals (yes that is a technical term) will last about 100K miles.

      This kind of real world understanding would enable me to fully evaluate the question.
      2013 TT-RS, Sepang Blue, Heated Napa Leather, Tech Pac, Upgraded Bluetooth / iPhone Integration, Sport Exhaust, APR Downpipe, APR Stage 2+, APR Intercooler,, G-Tech detail, Huper Optik tint, MSS Sport Springs
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      You can't take it with you!

    25. Member
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      07-23-2013 04:25 AM #49
      Arin
      Have you any Stronic cars testing stage 3 in Europe at the moment.If so what torque are they running with what gearbox upgrades ?

    26. 07-23-2013 04:50 AM #50
      Quote Originally Posted by Williamttrs View Post
      This is exactly the sort of thing I am getting at. I want something that I have some quantitative data to base an expectation on what I am buying. Dollars are pretty easy for any of us to analyze. But the "black box" we call an engine is more or less a mystery to me. Sure I understand a lot of the basic principles, but I really have no idea if Audi believes the various engine parts and drive train parts can handle nearly double the amount of force as the stock car.

      If it was a simple equation like the following I would be golden. Hypothetical: A typical TTRS will be a reliable car for about 150K miles before needing a major overhaul. A typical stage 3 car with stock internals will last about 50K miles before needing a major overhaul. A typical stage 3 car with beefed up internals (yes that is a technical term) will last about 100K miles.

      This kind of real world understanding would enable me to fully evaluate the question.
      A stage 3 car can last just as long as stock. You aren't driving at full attack every time you get into the car. There's guys posting on APR's Facebook page how their big turbo Audi is still running strong at 150k miles, and another 110k miles.

      Obviously a race car will need more attention, stock or modded.
      Audi TTRS: APR Stage 3+: Race Developments Built Motor, Race Developments Flowed Cylinder Head, APR FMIC, Scorpion Titanium Exhaust, VWR Engine Mounts, VWR Intake, Race Developments Superfinished GearBox, Helix Race Clutch,42Draft Shifter Bushing,Bilstein B16 PSS10, 034 Motorsport ARB,WhiteLine Drop Links,R8 Calipers,Braided Lines,Powerflex Bushes,Mintex 1155 Pads,SRF Fluid, Fusch Titan Pro S Oil, Recaro Pole Positions, Kenwood DNX5210BT.

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