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Cam adjuster oil rings

107K views 99 replies 34 participants last post by  vwooom 
#1 · (Edited)
Cam adjuster oil rings (Solved)

So I'm working on a customer's 06 Jetta with the 2.0T. I go to put the cam chain cover back on, and when I start to tighten the bolts I hear a snapping sound.







So that tube sticking out of the inside of the timing chain cover goes into the camshaft adjuster. The sealing ring that I broke allows the adjuster solenoid to send different oil pressures to the different chambers inside the adjuster. So just replace that little oil ring right? Easy.

I called the dealer, and apparently the only way you can buy these oil sealing rings is in a whole kit that includes the adjuster and the chain cover, and my cost is over $800.

Anyone out there know if it's possible to buy these rings separate from the dealer? Or if there's anyone in the aftermarket that makes them? Any help would be appreciated.
 
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#73 ·
That is likely caused by a bad or failing cam position sensor, or N205 sensor?

What car/engine is it? I think I have a spare used N205 I could send you if you want to swap in a known good part. I just need to check in the garage, let me know.


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#81 ·
Im back and have a question, i received all my new parts and got the car running again, drove about 50 miles but dont have an engine light on, i got my smog done today and it passed, but i do have one pending code P000A, by any chance do you know what that might be for?

Ive replaced the following parts
Cam adjuster/bolt
Cam tensioner and cam chain
Cam adjuster oil seals in the cam housing
HPFP cam follower


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#82 ·
Did you clear your ecu with a code reader after performing the work? It could be an old code still stored in the computer.

If a CEL never pops up you should be fine. If it does and you're still getting the P000A code take the cam cover off and check the rings on the adjuster shaft, they are so fragile that you can break them by sliding the shaft back into the adjuster when installing the cover.


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#83 ·
I've checked the rings and they were fine, I got them from audi, they were plastic, my original ones were metal and the plastic don't feel like they seal as good as the metal ones, also yes I've deleted the codes and the pending code popped up, IL drive it more and see if a hard code comes in

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#84 ·
So I'm in the process of resealing my cam cage because of a leak. When I removed the timing chain cover I noticed my adjuster had grooves as well and I found a broken adjuster seal ring in the cover.

Have we established that the adjuster is in fact 'not' supposed to have grooves? Looks like my cover is a 'G' version and the adjuster is 06F109088B. Again I'm like the other fellow here trying to determine if I should just replace the seals or replace the adjuster and the seals. Pic's below.





 
#85 ·
I was told the grooves are ok, replace the seals and it should be fine as long as you dont damage the rings when putting them it, mine had metal rings then i ordered a set from the dealer and got plastic ones while didnt look as good as the metal ones, i feel they are not sealing as well as the metal ones, i had to put a new adjuster since mine had alot of play, the new adjust had no grooves, but after all that i am still getting a code P000A


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#86 · (Edited)
Yea not sure how I feel about installing new seals and trying to get them to seat in the adjuster without breaking. I feel like those grooves will drive them to snap the minute they catch the ridge. Then there is the risk that they break and I don't notice and pieces lodge in the oil passage.

I suppose it's just safer to replace everything. Ugh.

EDIT: here is what I am looking at buying... https://www.ecstuning.com/ES281244/
 
#87 ·
That whole assembly looks great, with the groove if you put it in slowly they dont break and works out fine, but problem im facing is i used to have metal seals and the dealer sold me plastic ones so now i dont know which ones is better since im still getting the code P0011 and P000A, what was the reason you want to change everything ?


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#88 ·
#90 ·
Thanks for the link. I didn't know they sold the seals. I have a full timing chain tensioner kit (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assembled-by-ecs-parts/cam-chain-tensioner-service-kit/06d109229bkt/) that I ordered from ECS and luckly it didn't ship yet due to a back order on the intake cam wrench (yes I ordered it too). I spoke to them and had them add on those seals. The last thing I need is to be half way into the job only to break a seal that I don't have and can't get locally (Canada). Also yesterday my car threw P000A for the first time :( 286K km's on the engine and yes it sounds like a diesel haha.
 
#89 ·
Good morning guys, I'm Nick and I read above and I hope that I found the solution to my continuously appearing fault code p000a.I changed everything recommended exept those rings.My car is a vw golf vi 1.4 tsi CAVD engine 2009.Could you please give any info about the code of the part that I need?Where can find them?My engine is opened several times for some modifications and I remember my technician saying he found plastic pieces but he never said anything about that rings.
 
#95 ·
I was going to go for the el-cheapo kit at first but the last thing I need is for the bar to bend and the cam to slip while I put an impact gun on it (turning a cam while a piston is at TDC is risky). Also this is a good price for the tool and if I can resell it for anything close to what I paid for it then I don't really care about the $20 it may cost me to "use" it. Besides I have at least 2 and maybe 3 A3's to do this job to.
Yeah that is the same dilemma I was debating, minus the impact gun factor since I didn't have one at the time, and I did almost go OEM but funds at the time sorta swayed me towards the riskier proposition. Thankfully it all worked out. I would have never went with the cheapo tools if I hadn't had a few people I trust tell me from experience that they were well built and machined tools that did the job to perfect tolerances. I totally understand you wanting to use the OEM tools just in case, especially if you have several vehicles to use it on. Makes sense.

I'm still debating what method to take the bolt out with. I think I'll try a breaker bar first with someone else pushing the bit in to reduce the chance of slip (I'll tap the bit with a hammer as well to break some of the aged metal to metal tension). If that doesn't work after a bit of pressure then I'll hammer at it with the impact gun while pushing hard on it. Fingers crossed, 12yrs old and 286k km's .... it should be fun!
Yeah that is precisely what I did - second person pushing in, hammer taps, etc. - and it still got buggered up. I'm not saying it won't work for you, I'm just saying it didn't work for me and I honestly, truly thought it would. I thought if I did it that way and I'm careful with how much pressure I put on it at once it should all go fine... I was aiming so far on the positive side of things that for a second when it sheared I tried to convince myself it had just broken loose, but deep down I knew from the feel of it that wasn't the truth and in the next few seconds my heart slowly sank and then, well, then the cursing ensued. You know how it is, hahaha. I think it's funny that I have a perfect memory of how it all went down and it was a couple years ago... I can barely remember details of **** that happened last week sometimes when life is particularly hectic.

The guy down the street from me wants to help because he has a BPY with a broken cam adj bolt (the taper part came off like a donut, very odd) and the locating pin on the inside of his adjuster sheered.
Wow that's a new one to my ears! Yes, very odd. I wonder how he managed that... well looks like you get some practice drilling on someone else's before you get to yours LOL (although I hope it doesn't come do having to drill on yours).
 
#96 ·
Sorry to rejoin this thread after such long inactivity... if anyone needs tools for this job, I still have the adjuster wrench and polydrive bit. Unfortunately my clamp failed during the job, so that got returned!

Hit me up if anyone wants the wrench and polydrive though.


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#99 ·
Just an FYI for anyone removing/reinstalling this part- I gave both the sealing rings and the inside of the VVT cam adjuster where they ride a very liberal coating of a moly engine assembly lube when I put mine back together (I have the ceramic rings). The cover slipped on so easily that I had to pull it off again to make sure I had remembered to install the rings. There was absolutely no resistance felt. I've since completed the repair and have perfect engine performance and no trouble codes. I would definitely recommend using an engine assembly lube when installing the cover.

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