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Installing transmission turned to be a little bit more involving. I had to use a second mount point located towards the rear to hang transmission on two nylon straps and raise it slowly by jacking up either front or rear of transmission.
Here're the torque specs as per Bentley manual:
Engine to transmisison - M12 bolts - 80 Nm. These are bolts #1, #3, #5, #9 and #11 on picture posted on previous page.
Engine to transmisison - M10 bolts - 60 Nm. These are bolts #6, #7 and #8 on the same picture.
Pendulum support to transmission - 80Nm + 90' (1/4 of the turn).
Pendulum support to subframe - 200Nm.
Starter to transmission - 45 Nm.
Drive shaft to flange - 80Nm. Bentley manual suggests to replace these bolts, but I didn't.
Large hex bolt on drive shaft - 150Nm + 90' (1/4 of the turn). Bentley manual suggests to replace these bolts, but I didn't.
Torque converter to flywheel (three nuts)- 60 Nm
Last edited by albertr; 01-20-2015 at 07:59 AM.
Haha. Okay. My engine was starting up and idling fine when cold, but once it got out of the "high idle" period, it would run rough and quit. I was sometimes able to keep it going by pressing on the gas, but it would eventually die. This leads me to the conclusion that the VVT system is clogged up (probably by that stupid screen).
I pulled the cam position sensors and noticed that there were layers of dried oil sludge on them. Could this have also been a culprit of the rough idle? Maybe affecting spark timing? I can't imagine what's on the solenoids if I found that much sludge on the sensors alone.
In previous posts, Xtremjeepn talked about how the broken screen could have been forcing the cams into a retarded or advanced state. I thought I would pull the plungers out and see if the screen is broken and jammed into the solenoid, restricting movement. I'm also going to pull all the sensors I can to clean them just in case the sludge that's dried on them is causing false readings.
I'm really new to engines in general and don't have much experience with mechanical work... So I'm kind of just "winging it". I don't have a scanner, but I should probably purchase one if I'm going to be working on this car again. Forgive me if I sound like a total dummy talking about this stuff.
Just pulled my crank sensor... Was dirty and had small metal shavings stuck to it. Maybe a contributor to the rough start and idle problems I was having? Possibly throwing off ignition timing? I'm guessing it's a mixture of the dirty cam and crank sensors.
I haven't been able to get the manifold off yet because I rounded off one of the air pump bolts It's the only thing keeping me from getting to the solenoids.
If that's all your going on, that's just crazy.
Is your MIL on? Your not gonna get anywhere without a code reader.
FWIW there would be a crank/correlation code if the vvt was the problem.
Yep, I'm pretty crazy for doing this!
My check engine light is on. The rough running problem was intermittent, which lead me to believe that maybe the oil passages in the VVT system are clogged up by the screen or carbon deposits. There's some serious baked on oil sludge on the adjusters, so there's probably worse inside.
I'm pretty sure my mechanic scanned it and was getting cam codes or misfire codes (can't remember which one), but since the engine sometimes ran nicely, and with all of these problems people are having with the VVT, I'm thinking it's the problem.
I do understand, however, that this problem could be a whole bunch of things. As I mentioned earlier, my crank sensor had tiny metal shavings sticking to the tip of it, and my cam sensors had a TON of dried oil sludge on them. Probably to the point that it could have caused false readings.
I should really borrow a code reader from someone once I've got this thing back together
Like previous poster said, you'll need to read the fault codes first.
I don;t remember any troubles with removing actuators. Just work it slowly and carefully to not damage them.
I got stretch bolts from local VW dealer. Bolts are not very expensive, and local dealer is close to my house, so it was a matter of convenience.
(Note: I'm a novice compared to this discussion but believe I have been able to follow it, my apologies if not dead on...)
I hope to revive this thread as I have the same '03 Eurovan VR6 24valve with identical symptoms, same codes and diagnosis from local shop as a timing chain. I have no chain noise but same high carbon build up. Replaced a crusty camshaft position sensor to no avail (man that would've been nice) so took it to a local shop who said it is a $4.2K job (after $450 in serial testing). I said give me the keys and hobbled back home by keeping foot on gas and break at stops to keep above 1K rpms (stalls out intermittently at idle, but hate doing it to this notorious transmission). Sitting at home wondering what to do w/ this van that clearly nobody wants to work on (even Oil Can Henry's said "we don't do those" geez). Then I recalled that they said the engine vacuum was very low (something like 4psi vs 18psi spec). Compression was fine and they said all hoses were fixed (replaced a T-connector hose to master cylinder or something rather?) but I'd think a poor vacuum would have something to do with the timing issue, somehow or another. I've noticed a black vacuum device on front left of engine resembling the old school carb/vacuum/advance but connected to the block not to the distributor (I don't believe it has one w/ coil packs over plugs). I'm grabbing at straws but hoping to avoid dropping the engine/trans to find no problem like the originator of this thread. Who knows, maybe a rigorous soaking of engine/injector w/ solvent or something would blow out a chunk of something else and get the vacuum back up? Or is it possible that the ECM needs time to adjust to new parts? Please throw out any guidance on the source of low engine vacuum because I'd hate to have this awesome vehicle end up as the guest house up at the well! (just can't part w/ it - too many good memories)
Sorry for the long email... hope it makes sense...
I was reading your thread but it ended without resolution, I have the same problem. I took my engine out to replace the timing chain and gear and to my surprise everything was in perfect condition, just like yours. I'm at a loss. Could it be the vvt solenoid?
Following the steps outlined for the 01P Eurovan transmission removal best I can; but have a few challenges.
1. Should the oil filter holder be removed from the engine block? It might be getting in the way of one of the bolts connecting the engine to the transmission. If so, is it best to drain the oil first or is this part over the resting oil level? It also looks like this gets in the way of the engine support hole at the bottom of the block. *EDIT* I drained the oil from the filter (via the allen screw on the bottom) and just unbolded this device and then hung it with a wire from an intake manifold bolt. This made it much easier to get on one of the bolts going from the engine to the transmission.
2. Removed the thermostat housing, but am not sure if the "crack pipe" needs to be removed as well. Looks like I can get to everything, but it may be more limited once the engine support is installed. *EDIT* I left the cooling pipe in place, it didn't get in the way of the transmission removal.
3. Am considering taking off the eight nuts that hold the exhaust manifold to the exhaust pipe (also considering just removing the bolts at the cat converter instead). Any tips on the best angle to get at the nuts? Do people work from the top or the bottom on these? For example, I can get a short wrench on the nuts from the top or a long socket and some extension and wobble fittings from the bottom. Neither is great if these turn out to be really rusted on. *EDIT* Like Albertr did in previous posts, I took out the 3 bolts that connect the down pipe to the cat converter and found that the engine had plenty of room to move to get the transmission out. Some mechanics I've talked to don't remove anything at all from the exhaust and manage to get the transmissions both in and out.
4. There is a special place in hell reserved for people who use the wrong tool when working on cars. The two triple squared bolt heads on the passenger side ball joint are messed up from someone inserting the wrong tool in there. I can't get my triple squared bit to fit in. Am considering hammering in an Allen bit to see if I get enough purchase to get the bolts out but am not sure if it will work (any other clever ideas to remove these bolts are welcome!). Everything else for the axle removal has been done. Would I be able to get the 'intermediate' drive shaft out the transmission if I remove it's bracket and just work around this unbolted drive shaft while it is still in the wheel hub? *Edit* I was able to take off the nut from the lower ball joint and release the wheel hub there. One of the two bolts came out, the other messed up one is still in there. When I get the van running again I'll take it to someone who has more extraction bits to work on.
5. Finally, any tips on holding the crankshaft while removing the flywheel? I'm not there yet, but am unsure about how I'll go about this. *Edit* This was actually easy. I just set up my socket wrench on the 27mm flywheel bolt and fixed an attached cheater bar to the suspension arms and that held it in place while I took out the bolts on the other side.
Last edited by kite_rider; 08-18-2017 at 03:11 PM. Reason: Figured it out...