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Liqui Moly Oil Forum

139K views 90 replies 41 participants last post by  KarstGeo 
#1 ·
Hello Everyone!

We at LIQUI MOLY are proud to be here interacting with you and helping you in any way we can on matters of lubrication. If it has moving parts it needs lubrication. Even when it doesn't - it still needs it since corrosion protection is one of the main purposes of lubrication. Lubrication is a science - not voodoo. It is measured in microns, milligrams and infinitesimal units - not rabbit ears or dove tails. And it doesn't accept tales - only facts. What your older brother knows about oil - is probably already outdated. The pace of change is fast - and we are here to assist you, to be of service to you. So, give us your questions and your opinions.
We look forward to hear from all of you.

Follow us on Facebook at http://www.facebook.com/liquimolyusa.com

All the best,
Ludwig:heart:
 
#3 ·
Great Show Blake!!!

Blake, great show in your Karman Ghia!!! My Dad had this car in the Sixties - and still today he sheds a tear for the memories as soon as he sees one! Please tell me what the oil reads at 7k from the good folks at Blackstone. Now listen - tell me which is the exact oil you got. The Synthoil Premium or the Leichtlauf High Tech? Probably the Premium. If so you got to try the Leichtlauf High Tech, much stronger oil with high SAPS (sulphated ash) which makes it an even stronger lubricant. And don't forget the CERATEC!
Let me know! Can you send us pictures of your car?
liquimolyusa@gmail.com

Also, kindly follow us on Facebook at http://www.facebook.com/liquimolyusa

My best to you.

Ludwig:)
 
#5 ·
Leichtlauf High Tech 5w40 & Ceratec

Hi Blake,

You got to try Leichtlauf High Tech and the additive Ceratec. It is the best possible combination for that car. That oil is already substantiallyu fortified with hi SAPS and the Ceratec makes it a super combination. After 10 days of immobility I started my Passat W8 and it was silent from the first turn. No dry beating valves, chains, etc. Silent. Amazing. On the other hand, the wife's Jetta with Castrol (it is still new) screamed for almost 15 seconds...this after we returned from vacation in August.

I rest my case.Try it.
And make sure you come to our shows. We will be in Sonoma at the Infineon Race track with the WTCC this weekend, where our team will be coming from Germany. In November we will be at The SEMA Show in Las Vegas, with our booth.
You are our guest. Come see us. :cool:

Luis
 
#6 ·
Just wanted to congratulate you guys on your next step into the US market with the NV show!

I use MOS2 in my cars and your 5w40 in my Jetta. Very satisfied with both!

Keep up the great work.

Herzlichen Glückwunsch!
 
#7 ·
Vielen Danke!!!

Dear Biggs88,

Vielen danke!!!
We thank you for those kind words - please be sure we work very hard to deserve them. Next time please try - CERATEC. Micro ceramics beats our trusted MOS 2. You see, MOS 2 comes out with the old oil when you change your oil. You need to replace it with a new bottle with the new oil. Not so with the CERATEC. It stays in your engine for 30,000 miles.
Please keep us in the loop with your news!
Best,
Ludwig.:)
 
#8 ·
I know nothing about your oil...I've been using Mobil 1 0W40 or 5W40 TDT in my wife's 2007 Passat 2.0. I was about to move to Castrol SLX Professional 5W30 or 5W40. Any thoughts? We also own a 2012 golf TDi.

The Passat is driven 3 miles to work every day...so it barely if ever warms up in winter. In addition, once my wife leaves our street, she has to merge onto a 55mph highway...abruptyl at times. I cringe! FYI.
 
#9 ·
The Promised Answer!

Michael -
1- You NEED to know which approval codes your car needs: in the manual or the service dept. at the dealer will tell you. This is crucial as each approval code may require different additive packages in your oil! KNOW the approval required for your car first.
2- If it is a diesel car = diesel approval, diesel oil, no matter what.
3- If your car has a DPF (diesel particulate filter) you need a low ash oil. High ash content is best for lubrication but not on new diesels as they have DPF's and high ash will clog your DPF then ruin your converter.
4- For any gas car, the high ash oil is best as high ash means best lubricity.
5- No matter what, do not drive that engine cold. Give it at least 3 minutes before going over 2k rpms, seriously. The engine will survive!
Low ash 5w30 = LIQUI MOLY TOP TEC 4200
Low ash 5w40 = LIQUI MOLY TOP TEC 4100
High Ash 5w40 = LIQUI MOLY LEICHTLAUF HIGH TECH

And for those driving conditions in the cold - please use Ceratec. This microceramic-based friction modifier will do wonders for engines that have to perform in cold conditions!
Thank you for your interest! Let me know if we can help.

Ludwig.
 
#10 · (Edited)
Thank you! High ash for the 2.0 Turbo, but I don't see that exact oil on Liqui Moly's website - TopTech MoS2 look the closest...? VW 502 is specified for our 2007 Passat. The 2012 Golf diesel is 507. I will find a dealer in my area, thanks again Ludwig!
 
#11 ·
LIQUI MOLY High Ash Oil!

LIQUI MOLY's high ash oil is called Leightlauf High Tech. Part number for the US market is 3864 for the 5L jug. If you have a gasoline engine - you simply cannot go better. And if you add some Ceratec to that oil - you enter lubrication bliss. I did it.

Best,

Ludwig
 
#12 ·
how is the Leightlauf any better than the synthoil premium. i currently run the 5w40 synthoil premium with ceratec. but i do not think that i have any local dealers. I have a 2009 vw rabbit 2.5l 0A4 transmission. I also need some 75w-90 gl4+ gear oil. would you recommend the mos2 gear additive along with the oil?
 
#15 ·
MOS2 with oil for gears

MOS2 for gears - part #2019 is a tube you add to the gears when you are working on it - different than the MOS2 to be added to the engine oil - part # 2009. you can add MOS2 for the engine LM2009 to the engine oil for SUBSTANTIAL friction reduction. HOWEVER -

1.Never overfill your engine with oil;
2.Never use it in a setup with a wet clutch (bikes, for instance)
3.It will leave the engine and need replenishment at each oil change.

You will most likely experience a gain in mileage of about 1,5 - 3, 5 miles per gallon. Just read the forums. Just go to our Facebook page for the latest posts on the product. Try it yourself and them post your results as well.

All the best!
 
#16 ·
Leichtlauf High Tech vs Synthoil Premium

Both are excellent oils - you can see the posts right here with the actual oil analysis...
But the Leichtlauf is a much newer oil and not yet widely distributed in the US. Available in fewer outlets.
It is a HIGH SAPS OIL = sulphated ash, phosphurus and sulphur. This mean highest lubrication additive packages. Not good for the newest diesels as they have particulate filters and this high saps will clogs those filters - but the BEST OIL for gas cars. Thats the type of additive we run at the WTCC LIQUI MOLY TEAM ENGSTLER. And at Daytona 24hrs with our RSR.
If you can find the Leichtlauf - don't hesitate.

Best!
 
#17 ·
Hello everyone!!!!!

Just once more - and let me make this absolutely clear - we are all Vdubers here, right? That means me too, and you can believe it - just look at the cars I have, w8, r32 MK4, Jetta VR6 MK4, Audi RS6. The wife has a Jetta 2.5 08. See? What am i telling you all about the oil? Yes - the Synthoil Premium is excellent - BUT THE LEICHTLAUF IS THE STUFF I HAVE IN MY CARS - along with the Ceratec!!!!!

What does that tell you? Just saying....!And one word for the Ceratec: phenomenal. The absolutely BEST friction modifier for the times - microceramics - hence the name Ceratec.

Please ask away - it is a pleasure to talk to you.
You can get it at Bavauto.com , for instance.

Best!
 
#18 ·
did you take a course at amsoil u?

Just once more - and let me make this absolutely clear - we are all Vdubers here, right? That means me too, and you can believe it - just look at the cars I have, w8, r32 MK4, Jetta VR6 MK4, Audi RS6. The wife has a Jetta 2.5 08. See? What am i telling you all about the oil? Yes - the Synthoil Premium is excellent - BUT THE LEICHTLAUF IS THE STUFF I HAVE IN MY CARS - along with the Ceratec!!!!!

What does that tell you? Just saying....!And one word for the Ceratec: phenomenal. The absolutely BEST friction modifier for the times - microceramics - hence the name Ceratec.

Please ask away - it is a pleasure to talk to you.
You can get it at Bavauto.com , for instance.

Best!
let your product stand on its own and forget the bs.;)
 
#19 ·
???!!

We report to you the results from our labs. A opposed to some other companies, we don't make commercials with oil blobs traveling in a toboggan thru the air and thru a makeshift crankshaft to depict quality, Sir. Ready the reports, the oil analysis posted here. BS doesn't live here - it is despised by us.
Thanks for your participation.
 
#22 ·
Lubro Moly is now using our Worldwide name: LIQUI MOLY

It happened two years ago, but sometimes you still have questions about the name change. The name Lubro Moly has been dropped for LIQUI MOLY - which is the name of our company since the beginning. We used the name Lubro Moly in the US for several years but now decided to replace it with the same name as we are known for and use all over the world in the 110 countries our band is present in: LIQUI MOLY.

:thumbup::heart: ;)
 
#23 ·
Awesomeness In A Can!

I heard of your brand before, but recently got a chance to get my hands on your products. I've used Injector Cleaner & Engine Flush on my 98 Holf VR6 (120k & counting). After an oil change I've added Engine Saver - VR6 purred like a kitten!! Unfortunately not for long, since my buddy dumped about 1/2 liter of Lucas Oil viscocity modifier into my engine. I never trusted that product, it flows like cold honey! For a couple of days, during start-up and warm-up, it sounded like i have a supercharger on my Dub, then it went away. Now Im wondering if I should change oil again or if I can squeeze some milage out of it :confused: Also, which motor oil would you recomend for high milage engine like mine.

For my transmission I've used LubroMoly 75w-90 G5. Amazing transformation - now it glides into gears with ease (compared to jamming it in there, and ratcheting when downshifting to 1st gear), and noise level is almost non-existent now! Just Magic! Thank You Guys!
 
#24 ·
Guys, Ive used Liqui Moly Top Tec 4100 5w40 since a year in my 2006 2.0T.
But just readed that the oil for the gas engine is LAINCHFURMS somethng like that.
Ive been doing harm to my engine?
Will the use of Top Tec 4100 will damage the engine in the long term because its designed for diesel engines? Everywhere it says that 4100 is 502.00 rated :confused: TIA
 
#25 · (Edited)
liquimolyusa, can a high mileage 2.0T FSI motor benefit from Ceratec? I'm the second owner of a well maintained A3 with 110,000 miles. Am I throwing my money away adding Ceretac with this many miles? Also, the directions read to add it to fresh oil, but I have also heard of some adding it to old oil and running the engine for 5–10 minutes and then changing the oil. Thoughts?

Brian
 
#26 ·
You are wasting the ceratec if you pour it in old oil then change it. The ceramic particles takes time to fully bond to the engine internals. I started to notice the effect around 750 miles post oil change. And it will stay on the surfaces of the engine internals for up to 30k miles. I think any motor regardless of mileage can benefit from ceratec


Sent from Tapatalk
 
#28 · (Edited)
Why would you want to use an oil and add a friction modifier additive yourself into the oil? I would rather buy an oil that has this in already. Thats like buying any recycled oil even and adding ceratec and then claiming its the end all and be all? How do you know as a common consumer how much to add even? Because if you add to much then this will be determental to the oil. I'm sorry and I will say it that I'm a castrol guy and had tremendous success with only using castrol. All the adds on tv etc is not only an add and I saw test data that backed up all claims made and even sent a sample or 2 in myself to an independent lab that confirmed it. So yes in my opinion I wll not buy an oil and add additive packs to it myself. I might as well then start my own brand because essentially as soon as you start doing this you are in fact creating your own product. So what does it matter then if the base is castrol or liquid moley as the key factor is the additive not the base oil then? ALL OIL COMPANIES uses essentially the same BASE STOCKS then they add the different additive packs to creat their own product. Just my 2 cents use it don't use it.
 
#29 ·
to each their own. i am not bashing castrol, i used to run it for 30k miles untill the free oil changes stopped from the dealership. but i know out of my positive personal experience with this oil and then every Blackstone oil analysis indicates low wear. i am not affiliated with liqui moly in any way. but i am a very satisfied customer which will only run liqui moly fluids on all my motors. the cost of ceratec is expensive enough that not every person will want to pay for premium quality oil/ friction modifiers. there are directions which tell you how much ratio of oil to ceramic additives.
have you tried liqui moly analyzed it and compared it to castrol? ceratec is TUV certified so this is not snake oil, it does exactly what the description says on the bottle. its not like adding recylced oil and pouring in some additive and calling it the end all be all.
 
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