Also, depending on which coilovers you get, you can get coilovers that offer adjustable dampening which is great for increased traction and reducing understeer.
No way. 24vVR64LIFE
OP- I ran a very similar setup to 2doors on my 24vGTI. Shine Real Street Suspension, GIAC Chip, Intake, TT Exhaust, GC camber plates (drop in plates, not cut the strut tower and weld them in type) 17x8 wheels with 235 40 17 rubber, Audi TT front brakes with Ferodo DS2500 pads, completely stock rear brakes.
Lots of good times were had in that car.
No action shots of the new set up yet but its much further along than this.
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@Sketchykid
This is the Amateur Racing section.
Last edited by aircooled56; 12-26-2014 at 02:20 AM.
.:R32 RennSport
*2004 Volkswagen R32 and 1966 Volvo Amazon 122S*
Buttonwillow #13 2:01.411 Laguna Seca 1:45.485 Willow Springs 1:37.339 Auto Club ROVAL 1:57.529
Fastivus King of the Hill 2011, Fastivus King of the Cross 2015, 2016
so, im having a hard time figuring out what adjustable shocks/struts can be used with eibach springs. also, what set up is gonna let me run a 17x9 wheel with +20 or +35 offset wheel in the front with 245 tires and not rub the inside tire or wheel
Living fast in the the slow lane. Still have a vw though. Sometimes that's just enough
Why would u say that to him? Cuz they're stickers on a car?????....
@Sketchykid
Then my apologies
@1stgen
Yeah ??, those are sponsors right??
How does an amateur get sponsors? (I'm only curious because that would save me money)
Most of the stickers you see on amateur race cars are for contingencies (win a Hoosier for winning a race) or because the driver bought and likes the companies products.
You can get sponsorship, but it takes some work. You need to identify potential sponsors that might be willing to support your racing, and have a reasonable chance of benefiting from resulting exposure. Then build relationships with those potential customers and design a package - in writing explaining who you are, what you are racing/where, how you can benefit their business and what you would like in return.
I have put together plans in the past that were contingent on my performance. $xxx to enter a race, $yyy for pole position and $aaa / $bbb / $ccc for finishing 1st / 2nd / 3rd. I set it up with pretty low entry payout, with the majority of the benefit coming if I won. Also included minimum car counts. For something extra I offered to display the car with their logos at our local auto show, in the club racing booth, and to make it available for display at their business or show car events if it did not conflict with racing. It worked great. If I was winning I was nearly covering the cost of the race weekend.
Of course this only works after you have a bit of a racing resume to refer to in your sales letter. It can also be a two edged sword. You start to feel a bit more like you "have to" go racing, maybe because you committed to a certain number of events in a year. This might sound impossible, but when things are not going well, breaking/broken or conflicts arise, it sucks to have a hobby that expects you to play. I will probably wait until I have been back on track for a year before looking for funding again.
Chris
2014 Passat SE, 1.8tsi, 5sp / 1986 Golf Custom
2019 DT Ram 5.7 16V / 2005 E-450 motor home 6.8 20V
A2 Golf & A2 Coupe racers
those of you with the h2spindles, doyou have any pictures of install or pics with suspension set ups
Living fast in the the slow lane. Still have a vw though. Sometimes that's just enough
When you say Eibach springs are you referring to standard stock fitment Eibach springs like a Pro Kit or Sportline kit? If so, any shock/strut will fit with the springs and they will all virtually have the same clearance on the inner side of the wheel. If you are just trying to fit a 245 width tire, you can do so with a 17x8 or a 18x7.5 even. Perhaps you need to decide on your end goal before making a final decision on parts.
2007 mk4 jetta. FWD lap record holder at Mosport International Raceway. 2011 overall CASC Champion
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12 Golf R RB 4-Door Sunroof - APR Stage 3
HS Tuning - www.hstuning.com
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12 Golf R RB 4-Door Sunroof - APR Stage 3
HS Tuning - www.hstuning.com
"Greta" as she is known started as a 2007 City Jetta with 800 kms on it. A full ground up build that uses a hybrid Audi tt/ Metric racing rear suspension set up, full touring car cage, Moton coil overs, custom speedway engineering rear sway bar. 750lbs front, 900lbs rear spring rates. Samsonas 6speed dogbox, AP calipers with 330mm front rotors, 1.8t with aeb head, supertech valve train, Mahle pistons, h-beam rods, Bully ceramic disc and Sachs racing pressure plate. Engine management is handle by Eurodyne Maestro, Garret 2868 turbo with Tial stainless v-band .63 housing mated to a Pagparts v-band manifold.
rear end pic
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That's such an awesome car! Thanks for sharing the pics of the rear setup.
well, i guess i'm really trying to run 245 to 265 series tires. i'm just talking about the eibach custom springs that you can put with aftermarket (koni or moton) coilovers. what wheel offset can i run? is +20 offset gonna work or do i need a +30-35
Living fast in the the slow lane. Still have a vw though. Sometimes that's just enough
I run +20s with my 265s, and they poke out a bit but no interference. When I was going close to the end of the steering rack I was catching the inner splash guard on the passenger side. I put on some 5mm spacers and now that's not an issue either. So... offset of +15 works![]()
With +35s I imagine that your going to have problems with the tire not clearing the coilover body. I'm still on struts up front, but from what I've seen with the Ground Control setups you really need to kick things outwards for that wide of a setup to fit.
You need to decide what tire you are going to use first. A 245 will fit fine on a 17x8 wheel, which is going to be lighter than a 17x9 wheel. In a 17x8 size, you can use a pretty basic offset of et35 and still have clearance. Using an Eibach ERS spring system is pretty arbitrary and doesn't say much about wheel fitment. Since you spec out spring length and rate you can use shorter springs to ensure that the spring perch is located above the tire to allow you to tuck the wheel/tire package inwards as far as possible.
If you are going to go with a 255 or larger tire, you will need to go with a 17x9 and bigger. With a 17x9, assuming your spring perch is located above the tire you will be roughly in the et25-30 range. Not all tires that claim to be x size measure out to be x size, so your et will change slightly based on the tire you use. Depending on your final ride height width will not be your only concern, vertical clearance, ie overall diameter will play an even larger role as the overall diameter will cut into steering clearance as well.
If you are using a Ground Control sleeve over setup, to truly maximize wheel and tire clearance, you will need to cut off the spring perch that supports factory style springs. Another thing to keep in mind is that not all coilover bodies are the same diameter. Some bodies run larger than others, and will thus cause you to have to run more or less final et to clear the strut. For example, KW and strut bodies, run a smidge narrower than Bilstein, or H&R strut body. Ground Control/Advance Design struts run even wider. Motons and Ohlins also tend to run on the larger side as well. So you will still need to make additional final calculations after you have decided which suspension system to run.
now that audi rear suspension, what all is needed to make the swap possible. the audi tt rear lower control arms mount to the jetta's rear mounting point for the solid rear beam? correct? or is it bits and pieces from the audi tt? what center subframe beam is that from?
what about using this concept but going further. . . i recently came across a thread on super street where they used a cantilever suspension rear set up on a showcase HKS honda fit. the audi/Metric racing rear suspension set up would work perfect. and instead of the shocks being mounted on the lower hub, it could be a pushrod that goes up through the shock tower into the rear trunk area to and "L" bracket connected to a pivot point and the shock/coilover. the shock/coilover would be connectd to the "L" bracket and a central brace between the two shock towers either close to the floor or above a Fuel cell.
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Living fast in the the slow lane. Still have a vw though. Sometimes that's just enough