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    1. Member 2 doors's Avatar
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      '19 Accord EX Hybrid, '16 e-Golf SE, '04 Sequoia SR5, '00 GTI 1.8t
      02-18-2012 05:22 PM #51
      Quote Originally Posted by 3lfk1ng View Post
      Details of the cage:
      1. It's a half-cage. There are no bars up front to hit my head on (Cage is behind the seats ONLY).


      I don't know who first coined this term, but they should be shot, IMO. This is a silly, non-sensical, incorrect term. There is no such thing as a half-cage. A cage is, by definintion, an enclosed space. You either have one or you don't. You cannot have half of one. Would you take small children to the zoo where the lions, tigers and bears were kept in half-cages? Would you live next to the prison where the inmates were kept in half-cells? Would you eat your soup out of a half-bowl? Would you keep your goldfish in a half-tank?

      What you have is a four point roll BAR, nothing more, nothing less. If and when you add bars to the front, then you will have a roll CAGE.

      (rant over)

      I have a similar Autopower bar in my car, except I got mine with the bolt in harness bar and diagonal bar. In hindsight, I might have been better getting the welded verison like you have. It looks like you reinforced the mounting points at the floor. I did the same. I was very disappointed to see that the intended mounting points were right over the rubber drain plugs in the floor. Actually, in hindsight, I would have been better off having a custom bar built.

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    3. 02-18-2012 06:49 PM #52
      Quote Originally Posted by 2 doors View Post
      QFT. This is the main reason I haven't done anything more than chip my car. Sure a BT would make it faster, but I'm not willing to risk shortening the life of the engine, the downtime and cost associated with an engine rebuild. I learned my lesson using the lower ball joint spacers to try and gain negative camber. I lost the entry fee for a day at the track and never completed a single lap after my halfshaft seperated. Then I had to pay to fix that.

      Turning laps in a slow car is more fun than spending a track weekend wrenching on a broken fast car.
      I hear ya, missed plenty of days trying to fix my car AT the track. NOT fun...

    4. Member 3lfk1ng's Avatar
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      2004 GTi VR6 24v
      02-19-2012 02:29 AM #53
      Quote Originally Posted by 2 doors View Post
      I don't know who first coined this term, but they should be shot, IMO.
      haha, It's a term that everyone uses and understands, don't let it get to you.

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    6. 02-20-2012 01:38 AM #54
      A Quaife is built relatively the same as the Peloquin, although some have claimed that the Peloquin biases more torque to the loaded wheel. I have not seen any quantifiable data or testing to prove this, other than peoples opinions from driving various cars with both TBDs. Most would rate the Peloquin higher than the Quaife as warranty support seems to be better and they tend to come with ARP ring bolts, which is necessary hardware for installing the ring gear to the differential.

    7. Member MkV_Racer's Avatar
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      Sep 13th, 2004
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      2007 GTI, 2012 Chevy (tow rig), 2012 Routan, 98 GTi VR6 Race Car (sadly gone)
      02-20-2012 01:55 AM #55
      As far as Diffs go I cannot say enough good things about the Wavetrac. Tech support was awesome. The warranty is great. I ran mine on DOT slicks and never had a wheel spin problem. Even when a tire was unloaded. I did have the upgraded frictions. They updated mine for free.

      I Also Used a Kaaz. Loved it at first. Then it wore out. No tech support and parts were impossible. After less than a season it needed rebuilt and it took two months to get parts. Rebuilt lasted a while longer with some upgraded steels they sent. I decided that when I took it out again I was going to switch to the Wavetrac. Never looked back.

      Drove cars with Quaifes/Peloquins and like them but there a few track we run on that if you touch the curbs it creates a problem.

    8. Member turbonium89's Avatar
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      1973 jeep wagoneer, rip 02 gli vr6 24v
      02-22-2012 01:02 PM #56
      has any one converted to irs? without going to awd?
      Living fast in the the slow lane. Still have a vw though. Sometimes that's just enough

    9. Member 2 doors's Avatar
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      '19 Accord EX Hybrid, '16 e-Golf SE, '04 Sequoia SR5, '00 GTI 1.8t
      02-24-2012 05:58 PM #57
      I don't know if anyone has. I've thought about it (I'm an engineer, so I think about stuff like that). It doesn't seem either easy to do, or really worth it. There's not sufficient structure under the car to attach arms and links to. You'd have to add a whole lot of braces and things that would just add weight. And really, what would you hope to gain? You can buy shims to change the camber and/or toe. You still have sway bars, springs and shocks available to tune the handling. On a track/race car, you're certainly not worried about ride comfort.

    10. Member 3lfk1ng's Avatar
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      02-24-2012 07:04 PM #58
      If you're downright crazy you could do what 034 motorsports did. They went IRS in their mid-engine 2.7T based GTI-RS with a Porsche 996 rear suspension from Porsche Dismantlers in LA.

      When I talked to them at Wustefest last year they said that it needed a lot of dialing in. The front of the car handled like a Golf and the rear like a Porsche. At the time they were messing around with different springs on the front.

      It just doesn't seem feasible.

    11. 02-24-2012 11:01 PM #59
      Have you ever disconnected the rear shocks and removed the rear springs? The arms move fairly independent of each other considering there's an 18mm bar tieing them together in addition to the beam setup. If you're looking to increase grip, you're working on the wrong end.

    12. Member turbonium89's Avatar
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      1973 jeep wagoneer, rip 02 gli vr6 24v
      02-26-2012 05:41 AM #60
      i was just curious as to whether anyone had done it. i know id never do it unless i had the awd to go with it shipped to my door for free. and thats the only way hahaha.

      034 is preeettty insane. and that car is crazy. idk how they manage to pull it off 75% of the time without more things breaking. i heard they have destroyed 20 different rear diffs. its amazing what you can do with cars.

      i just want a low, wide, light, fun to drive jetta. and reason i didnt put another car make and model there is because i own it, and i'm lovin' being stuck with her cause she amazes me with what we've been through. never would have thought i'd like the jetta.

      my gf and i are building her a 69 bug and that makes me want to make my own. she has been learning everything about tracking my car through me, and wants to expand it towards her bug. it makes me happy that just taking a under dog type of car and doing a few small things can make them surprise a lot of people at the track. its rewarding

      next for the jetta is to get suspension and brakes.
      i really want a good set of coils with camber plates, i want upper and lower strusses, i want spherical joints in the control arms and transmission dogbone mount.
      for brakes, i want the r32 or equivalent front brakes, and i want to swap my oe fronts to the rear.

      then from there i want to work on some aero. whats your opinions
      Living fast in the the slow lane. Still have a vw though. Sometimes that's just enough

    13. Member 4ceFed4's Avatar
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      2001 Golf 1.8T, 2016 Durango, 2004 M3
      03-02-2012 12:29 AM #61
      Quote Originally Posted by WOB-SH573 View Post
      For suspension I ran:
      Ground Control coilovers
      Ground Control front camber plates
      Ground Control reach articulating perches
      850 front springs, 500 rear
      Shine Racing Service rear sway bar
      Front Sway bar removed
      H2 Sport front spindles & control arms
      Nice setup, very similar to mine. What struts and shocks are you running? You seemed to have left out the most important part

      Without spending $1200 a corner I haven't found much that can actually keep up with spring rates that high.

    14. 03-02-2012 03:42 AM #62
      Quote Originally Posted by 4ceFed4 View Post
      Nice setup, very similar to mine. What struts and shocks are you running? You seemed to have left out the most important part

      Without spending $1200 a corner I haven't found much that can actually keep up with spring rates that high.
      ADs can easily handle those rates. I've run my ADs from 400lb on up to 950lb springs. Cost per shock is far below $1200.

    15. Member 4ceFed4's Avatar
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      03-02-2012 09:39 AM #63
      Quote Originally Posted by rex_racer View Post
      ADs can easily handle those rates. I've run my ADs from 400lb on up to 950lb springs. Cost per shock is far below $1200.
      ADs?

    16. Member 1FLiGLi's Avatar
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      03-02-2012 12:53 PM #64
      Quote Originally Posted by 2 doors View Post
      Turning laps in a slow car is more fun than spending a track weekend wrenching on a broken fast car.
      AMEN, Brother 2 doors!!! Exactly why I will never turbo, SC, etc. my 16V. It's slow, but (knock on wood) it's reliable.

      Cheers,

      FLi

    17. Member 2 doors's Avatar
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      '19 Accord EX Hybrid, '16 e-Golf SE, '04 Sequoia SR5, '00 GTI 1.8t
      03-02-2012 11:48 PM #65
      Quote Originally Posted by turbonium89 View Post
      next for the jetta is to get suspension and brakes.
      i really want a good set of coils with camber plates, i want upper and lower strusses, i want spherical joints in the control arms and transmission dogbone mount.
      for brakes, i want the r32 or equivalent front brakes, and i want to swap my oe fronts to the rear.

      then from there i want to work on some aero. whats your opinions
      If I were to do my suspension over again, it would be Koni yellows and GC coilovers. I have the lower tie bar and it gave a small, but noticeable steering improvement. I'm still not convinced upper strut bars do much, so I say save your money. Spherical bushings for the lower control arms are a good idea, but I don't think there would be much benefit in the dogbone.

      For brakes, swapping the OE fronts to the rear will be too big and heavy and not easy to do. Get the 337/20th rears (vented 10" very similar to TT and R32's, but made for FWD cars) and some aggressive pads.

      I say again - put some money aside for safety gear. Race seats and harnesses are great investments.

    18. Member 2 doors's Avatar
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      03-02-2012 11:49 PM #66
      Quote Originally Posted by 1FLiGLi View Post
      AMEN, Brother 2 doors!!! Exactly why I will never turbo, SC, etc. my 16V. It's slow, but (knock on wood) it's reliable.

      Cheers,

      FLi
      See you next weekend. Let's hope the weather is better than this weekend.

    19. 03-03-2012 05:02 AM #67
      Quote Originally Posted by 4ceFed4 View Post
      ADs?
      ADs, Advance Design. They are an in house shock made by Ground Control. My particular units were valved for a 600-1000lb spring range. However in testing I have found that they still work on the street with rates as low as 400. I have only gone as high as 900 (checked my springs tonight and I don't have 950s in the box), and the shocks felt like they were still able to handle the rate on the street as well as the track, so I wouldn't doubt their 1000lb range. I did quickly remove the 900lb spring however, as the car was a bit too loose. With the higher rear downforce package I think the car would have stuck better, but we lost a LOT of accell just going to our medium downforce package, so we opted not to use that overall suspension and aero package.

      I'll refer you to my AD thread I created and have kept mostly up to date: https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...advance+design.

      I've taken the past almost 2 years now off from autox and motorsports and ventured into competitive mountain biking. I still have the car and since I'm not racing I've been testing w/ various setups around a BRB setup and a BFB setup. Its lead to some VERY interesting results on the street. The car feels better than it ever has before and I have confidence that if I were to go back now, the car would be quicker. I'll need to update the AD thread at some point with all my findings. While I'm taking the time off I'm attacking a lot of maintenance issues ranging from leaks to worn bushings. The car essentially going through an overhaul.

    20. Member chois's Avatar
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      03-03-2012 12:23 PM #68
      I run ADs as well. If you do make a big change in spring rate, they can easily be rebuilt/revalved for the new application.
      Chris
      2014 Passat SE, 1.8tsi, 5sp / 1986 Golf Custom
      2019 DT Ram 5.7 16V / 2005 E-450 motor home 6.8 20V
      A2 Golf & A2 Coupe racers

    21. Member mcgyver7923's Avatar
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      2012 RB APR Stage 3 Golf R
      03-03-2012 10:50 PM #69
      I'm subscribing. Lots of great info here guys!! I have been running my 1.8t reliably for years and have put probably 15k track miles on it since I got it in 03. I'm really loving all the suspension and aero talk. I just added a Water/Meth setup to my car to deal with heat issues at the track with my K04 and the car is quite a bit quicker now running in the APR 100octane tune. I'm concerned about down force at full throttle going through the kinks on some tracks. The car already felt kinda light...but now I think I'll be doing 8-10mph faster!!!! I'm looking at cages and seats. My butt and knee are sore after every track day :-(. I'm also thinking about what to do to the suspension next. I'm only running H&R sport springs and bilstein struts and shocks. I have ground control camber plates but not the cut versions and the maintenance sucks on them. I also have a bildon rear bar in the axle beam. Honestly the car is amazingly balanced as is running nitto NT-01's. I have all poly bushings in the front other then the subframe mounts which are fresh OE. I do have the stock front sway bar. I also have a nuespeed strut tower brace. I have poly spring perches in the rear.

      Adding to this that I do have a harness bar and 4 points installed. Not sure how to mount the 5th with the stock Wolfsburg seats.

      Can you guys recommend some cost effective suspension changes? I'm afraid to make it worse but I know I can make it stick more in the corners.
      Last edited by mcgyver7923; 03-06-2012 at 11:21 PM.
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    22. Member rybacs's Avatar
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      00 jetta, 00 GTI, 04.5 GLI
      03-05-2012 09:42 AM #70
      YouTube " vw GLI 1.8t @ njmp lighting circuit "
      I'm just saying ...

    23. Member 1FLiGLi's Avatar
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      03-05-2012 01:41 PM #71
      Quote Originally Posted by 2 doors View Post
      I say again - put some money aside for safety gear. Race seats and harnesses are great investments.
      +1

      FLi

    24. Member mcgyver7923's Avatar
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      2012 RB APR Stage 3 Golf R
      03-06-2012 11:23 PM #72
      I added to the above post that I do have a harness bar and 4 point belts installed. Not sure where to anchor the submarine belt.

      Anyone try the H&R RSS Coilovers?
      _________________________________________________
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    25. Semi-n00b PPT's Avatar
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      2001 Jetta 1.8T, 2005 V8 Touareg, I get to race a friends Mk V GTI and 2002 Porsche GT2
      03-08-2012 10:12 PM #73
      If anyone is looking to create a Mk IV track car, i'm parting one out.

      4 SSR GT7H wheels with Hoosier Koni challenge 245/45-17 "DOT" slicks (only 1 track day on them)

      another set of new slicks

      make an offer

    26. Member 1FLiGLi's Avatar
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      03-09-2012 10:20 AM #74
      Quote Originally Posted by mcgyver7923 View Post
      I added to the above post that I do have a harness bar and 4 point belts installed. Not sure where to anchor the submarine belt.
      Underneath the seat. To use a 5 or 6 point harness, your seat needs to have a hole in the bottom, between your legs. When I had my seats/harnesses installed, they welded a mounting point to the floor underneath the seats.

      Cheers,
      FLi

    27. Member 4ceFed4's Avatar
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      03-09-2012 10:45 AM #75
      Quote Originally Posted by mcgyver7923 View Post
      Anyone try the H&R RSS Coilovers?
      I came real close a couple of times, but never actually went through with it. Dick Shine talked me out of them when I met up with him, saying that they have really soft spring rates. I'm not 100% positive he wasn't grouping them with H&R's more street-friendly applications, but he made it clear to me to avoid H&R stuff if you have serious autocross or road course ambitions.

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