Anyone have any input on this ?
First, I bought this adaptor:
It will replace the stock cooler, so the transmission oil is 100% cooled by air. There's a hose to bypass the coolant and return it to itself.
About the radiator itself, I bought a no-name one similar to this (but with 8 tubes and a bit larger):
I bought about 4 meters of high pressure/temp gas hoses to fit them to the adaptor to the radiator.
Bought some mounting brackets and soddered it to the car's frame as to mount the radiator, it's the first radiator facing the air intake (when you look at the front bumper, it's the first radiator you see), leave some spacing between the stock radiator.
Hot trans oil goes through the lowest point in the radiator and then up, as to maximize the air that is received while driving, it was done that way because part of the upper part of the radiator is covered by the bumper.
Don't forget to add the extra volume of oil that passes through the hoses and radiator. Use a cylinder volume calculator if you want to be scientific and add the exact amount. It's about 100ml more.
Last edited by alexplay; 04-11-2019 at 08:28 AM.
Has anyone else seen anything like the problem I'm having with my 2004 beetle 1.8 Turbo? 1 through 3 it shifts normal, 4 through 6 I get nothing. The gear gage on the dash shows it moving into 4 though 6 if I pick up enough speed but it is actually not engaging. As soon as I let my foot off the gas it goes into 3rd. When I scan the ECU OR TCM all I get is "gear 4 out of ratio". I replaced all solenoids, I was going to replace K2 clutch sleeve with the kit from Sonnax but I pressure tested the clutch and it seems to be working fine. Could there be a different reason to be without 4, 5, and 6? I've been following these vwvortex forums and although they are so informative, I haven't seen many cases like mine. Most problems are with lower gears and rough shifting. Mine is not making weird loud noises or any rough bumps or anything like that. When I first drained the fluid although it was pretty dark, there was no metal at all, not even small particles. I'm using the VW fluid they gave me at the dealership for my bug. I also thought about doing a VB rebuilt using small can solenoids but I haven't seen any posts of anyone with my same problem having solved it doing so. One thing I think I haven't been very careful with is watching the fluid temp while refilling and having the bug on while doing it. But I had it on when I checked the level. So it was on and I shifted through when I checked to made sure the level was OK.
Does anyone have any suggestions or could point me in any direction on what to try next?
Last edited by BadBoyBeetle; 04-11-2019 at 11:29 AM.
Hi Guys - still having shifting issues with my 09G even after changing filter and fluid (3 times to makes sure it is all out). It doesn't happen all the time...sometimes can drive for a couple hours and it shifts perfect and other times it starts shifting really bad after only 10 minutes.
The bad shifts are generally 1-2 and 3-4 and downshifting in those gears as well.
The only code coming up is the OUTPUT speed sensor. Has anyone had this actually be an issue. I assume that code comes up always when there is shifting issues ?
Any input would be appreciated.
Think I will try this Ravenol J1D2108-004 ATF for my next change.
"Specifically engineered for Aisin AW transverse and inline 6-speed automatic transmissions for popular applications like Volkswagen/Audi....."
"Provides high thermal stability even when the transmission is subjected to extreme conditions"
Side question, I used the Lucas fuel injector cleaner occasionally and find it does work. Has anyone tried the Lucas transmission fix fluid? I bought a bottle but haven't put it in yet.
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If the Lucus Fix is thick like their engine oil treatment, don't put it in the transmission. The 09G is made to work with a thin fluid. As others have found when the ATF overheats that is when problems start. I just keep the ATF changed often and never add anything extra.
Only my 2 cents worth.
Most of my complaints from this transmission is due to the programing. Adaptive shifting is beyond stupid when, who would guess, more than one person drives a car. Two different Jettas and both of them had the same issues. Upshifting is sometimes a tad too long, and downshifting is too hard. These "annoyances" start around 30k miles.
Check to see if this may be the case.
I have a similar issue with the car going into neutral after a slight flare on up-shift from 3rd to 4th. I
I've been reading this forum for a long time, and decided to replace myself the VB on my 09G - did it twice.
Before VB replacement, very rough 3-2, bump from N-D and N-R, limp mode occasionally. P0733 error code.
First VB I put in fixed all the bumpiness but had flared 2-3 and 3-4 (up to 1500 RPM!).
Second VB, all great except that 1-2 is bumpy when the trans is WARMING...
If COLD = Perfect, if HOT = Fine, but within the transition from cold to hot (5 minutes driving), 1-2 becomes very bumpy and annoying.
No mode error codes however.
1 - Is the VB from Streetsmart good?
2 - Did I do the VCDS reset procedure correctly? (please check at the end of the video)
3 - Is there anything but the valve body that can cause this 1-2 bumpy when warming, but fine cold and hot?
I've read about 10 pages of this thread which was very helpful but honestly quite overwhelming. My transmission shifts fine when cold but after 20mins or so once warm it tends to shift harshly (slip bang) from 1-2, 2-3, and rarely from 3-4. Once warm the down shifts are also not as smooth. It's also worth mentioning that I have changed the transmission fluid, filter, and gasket about 6 months ago with no improvements. From my understanding a rebuilt VB will most likely fix my issue, but it seems that replacing the solenoids might be a cheaper alternative with a fair amount of good success rate. I've heard that the "bores" or whatever can wear out which would require a VB rebuilt (not sure what symptoms this causes). With that being said can someone please suggest the best way to handle this? I'm broke so if I can get away with replacing the solenoids, I'd rather go that route. One more question, since I've been driving with this issue for about 2 years now, could I have caused damage to any other components such the gears?
Thank you in advance! (I hope I get a reply, the thread seems to be inactive)
Last edited by ronaldrover; 11-17-2019 at 12:48 AM.
I solved the 09G problems over the course of 2 years. This is what I did:
I had flares, bangs, bumps the works. I wanted to scrap the car 2 years ago but I weirdly liked this 2.5L engine ( I also solved mpg problems and power problems with this engine too - it now drives like my BMW 128i)
What I did:
- First measured temperatures with VCDS:
- Cold – 75DegC ATF shifts were perfect
- Above 80DegC – tranny went to hell
I tried to solve why the temperature was so high (Max measured 120DegC, at 130DegC the computer puts the tranny into limp mode 3rd gear ) by checking anything related. This is what I found:
- Rear brakes were sticking (common VW problem) – fixed this and the ATF max temp drop to 100C
- Removed inline coolant thermostat to the heat exchanger – ATF Max temp dropped to 90DegC
- Replaced ATF fluid and filter 2 twice and added liquimoly ATF additive (250ml)
- I Replaced the valve body with a supposably rebuilt one from ebay - (I doubt it was rebuilt but it was slightly better than my original in terms of shifting)
- I then Added TranCool transmission kit for 09G - https://www.trancool.com/complete_ki...sin_round.html
- This a a Russian/Polish website that provides complete cooling kits for 09G tranny (replaces heat exchanger)
- I added this kit and it dropped my ATF max temp to 65-70C under tremendous load
My car Jetta 2.5L 09G 6speed is at 300,000KM and drives perfectly after hours of driving in city, highway and traffic!!!!
Hope this helps a bunch of you.
I would say do the solenoids and or valve body absolutely last as its the most expensive and I barely saw any improvement. Im sure my old valve body and solenoids would work fine as it went to hell also after 80DegC too.
MY 09G is SOLVED and the above should solve a lot out there!
Last edited by rnaidoo99; 01-12-2020 at 10:53 PM.
Hi new to the forum thing, hope I am doing it correctly. I have 2008 Audi A3 2.0FSI with a 09g transmission, I just overhauled the engine and drive the car for about 80km and while driving the car just got stuck on 4th. I stopped the car and it just revved up and wasn't moving while on drive, now it does not move if you put it on drive or even reverse.
Since I didn't want to put any more money into this problem I figured what else could it be? Transmission control module? I know I had looked for it before and most info said it was inside the left front fender but I never did see it. I opened the hood and picked out the two obvious computer modules and used a can of Deoxit contact cleaner on both sides of the connectors. So going on three weeks now and ZERO issues with the transmission clunking or the wrench icon coming up. Could this have been the problem all along??? Would like to know if the modules I've identified are really what they are...........
interesting...... So, what is different about this filter than the other that you remember? Two things come to mind to me. 1) The older filter has bigger holes in it and can not filter finer particles, which means your oil becomes sandpaper, or, 2) the newer filter is of the same mesh but has a higher number of pleats?
What did you notice?
Do not bother getting a new valve body for the 09G transmission because it also will not last.
The problem is the valve body drilled holes in the plate between halves, are too small in some places, and quickly get clogged with metallic paste sediment from the differential gears.
The ONLY solution is to refactor the valve body plate holes yourself, with one of the kits available.
Essentially the kit is a set of drill bits and instructions.
In my experience, all 09G transmission need it, and it works to fix all of them I have done.
And I have done half a dozen by now.
The kit is only about $70 and does not require tranmission removal.
Just drop the valve body after removing the pan.
I also suggest adding an acrylic tube to the capped over factory filler port at the front of the transmission, so you can easily drain, and refill, without the silly pump mechanism from underneath.
You should be changing ATF every other year.
And get your ATF directly from Asin, the the Japanese maker of the 09G for only about $6/quart.
But the 09G is not just used in VWs. It is a Japanese transmission by Asin, and it also used on BMWs, like the MiniCooper. It is also used in Toyotas.
The transmission is not really defective in design, but is built to be flushed often so that sludge can not built up, and VW goofed and for some reason told its dealers to not change fluid ever year, like they should.
The valve body kit comes with new solenoid caps to replace the ones you have to grind off, so you can ream the solenoids out.
Rebuilding the solenoids like that works fine as long as they are not electrically burned out.
Getting NEW solenoids is far riskier because there are at least 2 variants, and it is easy to get the wrong ones, even from the dealer.
Remember, the 09G is a Japanese Asin transmission, and VW is not the maker or supplier of it, so does not always know or track which variant was put into your particular VW vehicle.