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New VR6 N/A Dyno Thread

73K views 191 replies 40 participants last post by  perickomx 
#1 · (Edited)
The other one im sure we have all looked at is 3 years old now.. Im sure some new beasts are running around. I am about to start building my spare motor so I am interested to see what people are using and what numbers are being put down. If anybody wants to play along please do.

Ill start.. Got a baseline couple weekends ago

OBD2 12V
Shock Therapy Wires
Home made SRI (stock ported lower)
Pieced together exhaust
GIAC Chip
1.8T IAT
4 Bar
WOT Box (no lift shift is awesome)

Plans are high compression pistons, BVH, cams, tt down pipe, ported exhaust manifold and my wet set up 75-100 shot havent decided yet. Then all the drivetrain work that comes with it.

Baseline gave me a consistent 178whp. I was surprised and impressed



also made a little video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rgqswaOhOPI


After gasket matching and porting my exhaust manifold matched up with a TT downpipe and a cat delete It opened up the motor A LOT. This engine suprises me on how sensitive it is to modifications. Reminder this is a stock long block and the dyno was done at the same shop by the same guy in the same gear (4th). So thats 12whp and 15 ft/lbs from some exhaust work.



another video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rXemhcSQrpw

So lets get this kicked off again. Im interested to see what some new products out there are working and what cams do the best work. :beer:
 
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#46 ·
Matt your build will be of much interest to a lot of people on vortex. I mean you already have a home made SRI that really works. Hell someone did that but it took a while to get finished. I can't wait to see what power your VR6 will gain with more mods. If you are a good driver your goals will be achievable. Need_a_VR6 can help a lot with technique as he has a great deal of positive exp. Good luck on everything.
 
#48 ·
I have a decent amount of road tracks and autox experience. Im new to the drag racing thing. I know the first 60 feet are important. So im starting with that. Reaction times and holding onto the road. Ill get it down pat in no time. I learn fast and im pretty "in tune" wit y car. Im sure I will be asking him questions down the road.

As for the sri... that was honestly dumb luck that it worked so well. I origionally made it to be part of a turbo setup. I put it on and butt dyno felt the difference and I was significant. I am extremely suprised. The best part is I can duplicate that manifold I mean exact copies all day long. It takes some.time to get them done because the trumpets were done with hole saws a router and then a file to get it smooth. I might be interested in making some if there was a market for it. It does have proven hp I guess. However.... I had to do an eff load of.cutting and bending of ac lines and everyting else to get it to fit.

Anyway... yeah. Im excited to do some real exhaust work on t his weekend. Port the manifolds put the tt dp on it and make a test pipe. Right now it is stock from he cat up. I just have some crush bent junk pipe on it cat back
 
#49 ·
I also don't know how much I believe the "equal length runner" theory anymore. I get the physics of it... but at WOT I don't see how that matters... each cylinder is sucking in as much air as it can. Why does it matter how long re runner is infront of it. At WOT that is... im sure someone will post up all he reasons im wrong or repeat the theory... but whatever. Im happy with my non equal lenth runner sri
 
#52 ·
It depends on ALOT of variables. Cam specs, port velocity and flow, compression, all have to be taken into consideration, so its hard to say what the actual power difference will be on anysetup, with out real world testing.

Too large of a port crosssection iin the intake manifold, and the port will go "dead" killing velocity, and making it very peaky in spots. Too small of a cross section, and you will hit "sonic choke".

You have to take length of the runner, and cross section of the runner into mind when considering it.



I really believe a GOOD manifold, a GOOD header, and a set of staggered cams is what these engines need to start making serious power. The VR is like having to deal with 2 diferent engines at once, with the staggered ports, and I believe that's where alot of the problem lies.

All the manifolds I have seen from the "big guys" arn't that impressive for NA cars, mainly because they are geared at the FI crowd.

A header, that separates the short/long exhaust pulses should be a huge plus, and I am mocking up one right now for myself. It will just group the 3 short ports with long branches, and the 3 long ports with short branches, then stay separate over the k-frame, then each dump out a 45* bend.
I REALLY believe a good header is (one of the things) needed to get these past the "wall" that every VR seems to hit.
 
#55 ·
Well... Butt dyno results tell me I picked up a good amount of torque and top end power. Happy for what it is.. I wasnt too impressed with the TT Down Pipe.. I think $275 is a bit much for it... but whatever. Its saved me a lot of time porting the factory one. I also had to run through all the ports on the TT down pipe.. had a lot of burs and what not. With the ported manifold and the straight through resonator I have it sounds like a 24v... Which is awesome. However.. its way too loud. I will need to get an actual muffler for it I think. So here it is.. Stock manifold ported with harbor freight router and a sanding bit.. TT down pipe some heat wrap and a home made cat delete. (The holes are not perfectly round... )








 
#58 ·
OK.. so I ran at Bug Out on the 1/8th mile track today. I am satisfied yet slightly disappointed. Being a noob to drag racing I tried to learn as fast as possible through experience but ended up screwing myself in the end.

First run. I launched it.. Big mistake. Spun through every gear.. Speedo said 110 mph when I went through the finish line.
Results:
R/T: .671
60': 3.119
1/8: 12.858
MPH: 59.09

Second run. I didn't launch it. Feathered it through First and got on it after that. Won this race against a VR Corrado
R/T: .782
60': 2.549
1/8: 10.078
MPH: 72.70

Third run. This is my first time bracket racing.. So I didnt fully understand the Dial in time thing.. I thought I had to put down my best time.. So I did. 10.078. I screwed myself.
R/T: .743
60': 2.496
1/8: 9.938
MPH: 73.57

My opponent ran a 10.460 So I got to the finish line faster... but I ran faster than my dial time.. So I was eliminated.

Then I learned how to work the dial time talking to other people..

So I need a diff and some sticky tires... Then I will try this again.
 
#61 ·
My VR6



Ported and Polished Big Valve Head 41mm intake / 36mm exhaust
intakes ports reshaped (choke point reduced by 30%)
Schirck Valve springs TT Titanium retianers
268 Dougherty Racing Cams
Exhaust Manifolds Ported and Polished
Megasquirted - Dyno Tuned
cat back 2.5" custom exhuast with flowmaster muffler


Anybody want to buy it? Send me a PM
 
#63 ·
*I dont know how accurate the iphone dyno is...
It's surprisingly accurate. Road & Track, Car and Driver and Grassroots Motorsports have all given it the thumbs up. Since there is a variance between the different dyno's, this is just another to add to the list. It's definitely more consistent than my cousin's G-Tech and that consistency is helpful for gauging whether or not you've gained any HP. is it extremely accurate doubtful. But it can provide consistent data to work from, until you get your car to a real dyno, that is.
 
#65 ·
I say that because according to his dyno we have the same hp. However his 1/8th mile time is a lot slower than mine. I have a full interior right now so unless he has dead bodies full of lead in his trunk I don't see him running that slow. I think the 1/8th mile time is right since that can be judged by time and a gps. I don't think the dyno or hp side is as accurate as a real dyno.

Just a thought.

Im sure the dynolicious dyno is all math. The computer program assumes it takes 180hp for a X,000 lbs object to travel from point a to point b in a certain amount of time
 
#76 ·
I don't think the software will work if the car isn't moving...

Stock head/block, ITBs, 268s, standalone

Forgot I had that one saved.
Do you have a sound clip of this car? I wonder how awesome itb's sound on a vr6. I used to know a guy with stand off itb's on a honda. It was one of the coolest looking engines I have ever seen in action.

ITB's sound sooo good.
 
#73 ·
Anyone in here dyno on a Dyno Dynamics dyno?
I ran mine on one and it put down 170whp. The dyno tech said that it was a 35% drivetrain loss dyno, and that I am somwhere around 230Crank hp. I would like to get up on a dyno jet so I can realistically compare to many of you on here.

P&P
5 angle Valve job.
autotech 262s :(
LW lifters
TI Retainers
HD springs
Clone Manifold.
C2 chip
10lb flywheel
1.8t Temp sensor
3 inch straight exhaust, no cat.

 
#80 ·
ITB's are completely different from an sri. Real itb's do not run a plenum. You have to have a pretty beast engine to get the full potential out of them. High compression, nice size cams and a good port job you can make some decent power out of them.

However you have to run stand alone with them and a good tune.

The only real reason for a plenum is to be able to have vacuum or a turbo... But ITB's with FI is a waste of money IMO.

VR6 ITB
Engine
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n7RCWvv3SLg
Drag Race
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jWC7gDaac3E&playnext=1&list=PL2245EE14BB8DB710
Approaching sound
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6F8V0Ut2Uvg

They sound nasty on almost all engines

Or you can get real dumb and get stand off ITB'S
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GsKNbsDqEPs

ORRR you can be a baller and do this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ba8sT2BQ4uc&feature=related
 
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