VW Vortex - Volkswagen Forum banner

What did you do to your A3?

2M views 9K replies 463 participants last post by  Evo V 
#1 · (Edited)
What did you do to your A3 today?

Saw this on the mkv side of the forum and thought we could do this hear. Just post if you did anything to you're a3 today here! ill start first...

i installed aspherical mirrors from p4e. They are very nice ill post pics later if anyone want to see it:wave:
 
#9,191 ·
Very nice Kevin! However I would not recommend doing this job (like the install I mean) even 1/10 times LOL. Pain. In. The. Ass. Well I guess it depends on what troubles one runs into. The videos online make it look real easy but then there's all sorts of different methods recommended. Some say not to bother removing the ball joint bolts, some say you have to. Some say don't bother removing the wipers and just bend the plastic up, some say you have to remove the wipers. :confused: I found I could do the pax side top bolts without removing the wiper there but the driver's side doesn't look like it. Also the Raceland video shows it being trivial to remove the wipers--just remove the cap, remove the nut, wiggle it a bit and it comes out--yeah right :rolleyes: Can't get my wiper off by hand for the life of me, I do have a wiper puller somewhere (aka battery terminal puller) but I'd like to not use it since it's all metal and will probably scratch the paint on the wipers :(

Did you have to remove your wiper(s)?

Anyway I had the world's worst time getting the pax side strut out. Holy crap it must have taken me 2-3 hours. It does kind of suck when they used 18mm and 16mm nuts everywhere and I don't have deep sockets in those sizes, apparently :( But that was the least of my worries because I was actually able to get the 18mms undone with a 19mm or 3/4" (used both about the same amount of play though); the 16mm had a perfect fitting imperial size though, so that was good. I did have to remove the lower ball joint bolts but in fact I had to remove every damn thing on the knuckle except the tie-rod end which I couldn't even get off and didn't want to damage the boot on--not even sure if I didn't damage it after wrestling the damn strut out! Main problem was the bolt part of the strut collar--was rusted to **** and seized in there like a mofo. I thought I had the strut coming out with the spreader bit engaged so I dropped the three mount bolts but then I realised the bolt actually prevents the strut from coming out. So there I was with the knuckle and strut only connected by the tie-rod end and struggling with it. Had to place it on something to support it and then finally got the bolt out. I mean it's not even threaded in there! So how the heck it was so hard to get out is beyond me.

I've seen on vids (not the commercial ones but actual people) many people sheared off the ball joint studs while doing this job, thankfully that didn't happen to me but it seems like I ran into every other problem no one else did! The axle wouldn't even come out. I mean it slid out of the bearing no problem but there was not enough room, no matter which way I turned the wheel to actually pull it out fully. Couldn't get it out until I took out the ball joint and the upper strut mount bolts and then at that point...then the damn axle got stuck in the bearing and wouldn't come out! Had to stuff the handle of a ratchet in there and pound on it with the mallet to get it out. Nightmare! And I've only got one side out so far!
 
#9,193 ·
Lol everything you've mentioned, I ran into same issue.

#1. Wipers would not come off. I had to go rent a battery terminal puller.

#2. For the life of me, we could not get my axles off. I have done axles on my mk5 and they just fell out in 5 minutes. These took hours of pounding and wiggling. It sucked. I have no idea why it took forever to come out. And it was both sides!!


#3. I was actually prepared for the ball joints. It was quite simple with a ball joint separator tool. 100x easier than a pickle fork. But of course it was difficult because I couldn't get the axle off. Lol
 
#9,197 ·
I started with the right/rear. Didn't like the bend so I put it back to stock. I think the ends need to be clocked before they are crimped on. Having the caliper off doesn't make a difference. Tightening the banjo bolt down pulled it into place but the line had a weird bend in it I could not get rid of. Not sure if it's common or not. I was looking to see if anyone else had the same issue.
 
#9,204 · (Edited)
Interesting. Well I got the M14 triple square now so I might get to try my hand at the brakes tomorrow but first to get the engine bay back together and the car running, lol. I didn't mean that taking the caliper off would make any difference, just wondering if moving it out with the extensions might not reduce the bend a bit. Will have to see. Will let you know how it goes.

Didn't bother removing the cowl thing, and I think I'll be able to get away with that on the driver's side too.
Well I did make a small crack in the plastic but was able to get the driver's side done without removing it there either--wipers stayed in place!

I ended up having an even worse time getting the driver's side strut pinch/collar bolt out though. Again the nut came off fine but the bolt just would not turn. After stupidly using the 3/8" drive bit to try to turn it (hey it worked on the other side!) it rounded it out too much that even after I got the correct M14 triple square it wasn't going to work. So... I popped out the outer tie-rod end with a puller, and removed the strut assembly with the knuckle completely. Placed that on my driveway and drilled out the stupid bolt enough to get an easy-out bit hammered in and tried to turn it that way. Keep in mind now this thing is in a collar it's not threaded but twisting it seems to break the rust up. Well not this one because not even the damn easy-out would budge it--unbelievable! Before I broke that thing off in the bolt, I pulled it off and just proceeded to take my rage out on this thing with a hammer :mad: Just smashing the **** out of the bolt until it finally gave way and started sliding out of the collar. Then, even with the spreader the strut wouldn't come out of the collar, so I left the spreader in and smashed the strut out too LOL! Holy crap that was ridiculous! Gotta love how the videos on youtube go so smoothly :rolleyes: They should have made the bolt collar slightly bigger so this kind of thing doesn't happen. Anyway once I got it all back together and tightened up, I sprayed down the bolts, with that one in particular, with a lot of Fluid Film. My idea is to Fluid Film all that suspension stuff at every seasonal wheel changeover, that way this doesn't happen again (hopefully)! At least the KWs themselves are stainless.

Since I'm likely not going to be able to get the rear shocks out myself, I set the front KWs to just about their max height, since I didn't want it to be too low in front with the rear at stock height. I figured the highest height on the KWs is supposed to be lower than stock but when I lowered the car down, I found the thing is higher than stock now :laugh: So I guess that'll be good for winter (which is almost here mind you); but, will have to adjust the height again tomorrow.

Almost done this stuff...almost!
 
#9,205 ·
Found a set of 2008 R32 calipers on ebay for a great price. I've upgraded my current stock rotors, and lines with StopTech so to match the back, still gotta get the slotted.

Here's what they looked like when I got them.


Then I took them apart and had the blue powder coated black. Ordered the matching rotors and lines, and EBC Redstuff. Anti rattle springs that are the same as the S3. I'll paint them gray and put an S emblem on them.

 
#9,214 ·
Then I took them apart and had the blue powder coated black. Ordered the matching rotors and lines, and EBC Redstuff. Anti rattle springs that are the same as the S3. I'll paint them gray and put an S emblem on them.
Awesome all around dale333! The powder coat looks really nice.

I'm sure you'll be fine with everything you've got set up, but I noticed some rust on parts of the rear calipers I dismantled, refreshed and painted a year or 2 ago (too embarrassed :facepalm: to show a photo) and I'm wondering if you might run into the same issue with the back half of the unpainted calipers. When I did mine, I used a strong paint remover and I think that left it so that ANY little part of of the caliper not painted was immediately susceptible to the elements and started rusting. Again, just throwing this out there, I'm sure you know what you're doing and what not.
 
#9,206 · (Edited)
^ Nice looking calipers. :thumbup: What kind of improvement do you get with the R32 ones versus stock? And are they a plug-n-play fit?


I'd been tempted to go with a facelift LED tail lighting system, but all told it's over $400 USD for the full conversion. Not really worth it for me at this point, given my ownership is nearing the tail end (12 years!). However, I've been wanting to put some LED's in a few places. Rear turn signals is something I've wanted to do, but I was torn between shelling out big $$ for DeAutoKey ones, or paying a lot less for lesser brands that may actually be OK. I'm not looking for "lifetime" service. A couple years is fine with me.

I took a chance on AUXITO. I'd seen some VW & Audi owners post about them working out OK, no CANBUS bulb out errors. They have a few different designs, but I found one that looked to be decent -- IMAGE. 15 CREE LED's, total claimed output 800lm per bulb. Seems pretty true to claim. I've heard of other brands boasting double that lumens output and delivering just half. $10 for the pair. They work fine as turn signal bulbs only. I tried them out as rear parking / brake light bulbs and they worked just momentarily, then threw a bulb-out error. I read in one place that they'll hyperflash after 8 minutes of continuous use, but don't see that happening very much.


VIDEO
 
#9,207 ·
^ Nice looking calipers. :thumbup: What kind of improvement do you get with the R32 ones versus stock? And are they a plug-n-play fit?
Thank you. Our stock is a 312mm rotor and this upgrade is a 345mm. More stopping surface to keep it cool, less brake fade. These are the same rotors that came on the S3 8P (we didn't get it here in the states). I'm upgrading the rotors, brake lines and pads but aside that, it's all OEM.


I'd been tempted to go with a facelift LED tail lighting system, but all told it's over $400 USD for the full conversion. Not really worth it for me at this point, given my ownership is nearing the tail end (12 years!). However, I've been wanting to put some LED's in a few places. Rear turn signals is something I've wanted to do, but I was torn between shelling out big $$ for DeAutoKey ones, or paying a lot less for lesser brands that may actually be OK. I'm not looking for "lifetime" service. A couple years is fine with me.
Keep an eye out on ebay, you might be able to find a pair of used ones off a wrecked car.

I took a chance on AUXITO. I'd seen some VW & Audi owners post about them working out OK, no CANBUS bulb out errors. They have a few different designs, but I found one that looked to be pretty decent -- IMAGE. 15 CREE LED's, total claimed output 800lm per bulb. Seems pretty true to claim. I've heard of other brands boasting double that and delivering just half. $10 for the pair. They work fine as turn signal bulbs only. I tried them out as rear parking / brake light bulbs and they worked just momentarily, then threw a bulb-out error.
I've thought the same thing. I really just want LED back up lights for obvious reasons. Iv'e been behind cars with LED brake lights and they are sometimes so bright they are annoying.
 
#9,213 · (Edited)
I installed another set of LED turn signal bulbs in my A3. Now there are 2 sets, front and rear, both Auxito. As shown above the rear worked out really well. It's slightly brighter than stock and performs well without any bulb-out or hyper-flash. I then installed 2 new ones in the front. When I installed the first one there was a brief hyper-flash, but then subsequent flashing shows normal. No bulb out. With 2nd one, the hyper flash happened again, and this time I got a bulb-out warning, but then when I started the car it went away. It seems these bulbs have some kind of capacitance that is required to charge in order to fool the CANBUS system. I left the car for about 30 minutes, went back, and the bulb-out indicator came on again, just momentarily, gone on subsequent flashing.

In any case, these bulbs are seriously bright. Nearly blinding. When I had done just one bulb, the comparison was like 3 to 4 times as bright as the incandescent bulb. I have a feeling these may be too much. But not sure I'm going to be OK with this momentary hyperflash each time. Bulbs were $18 for the set and very well made.

Lumens:1400Lm/per bulb, 2800LM/per Bulb Set
LED:26 Chps/per bulb, 52 Chps/per Bulb Set
Power:21W/per bulb, 41W/per Bulb Set

LED Chip: 3020-SMD LED CHIPS BULB
Color Temperature:2200K Amber Yellow


EDIT: I confirmed with a couple of different sellers & others who tried this -- the affordable LED bulbs that are CANBUS friendly (no error code) will work as turn signals if you install either front or rear, but not both. If you're going to do both, you need to install resistors.
 
#9,216 ·
Finished primary single DIN to double DIN conversion. The most infuriating part of this was discovering that there is some play in how the double DIN cage mounts, such that it can be a little askew, despite the screws being properly in place. Thankfully I hadn't yet put back the glove box and driver's side panel when I discovered it, so I was able to loosen bolts / screws and shift the cage enough (without too much hassle) so that alignment looks better. Still not 100%, but more like 99% (enough that it is hard to notice). I'm thinking that because the double DIN cage came from a 2011 A3, there must be a very slight difference in assembly of supports for cage mount.

The amber "Passenger airbag" warning light from 2009~2012 years is unbelievably bright. The indicator design is unusual, not like anything I'd seen before. When you pull off the indicator cover, you find a solid clear plastic insert that acts like a lens projecting from LED to lettered cover. *3* SMD LED's! Why not just one? I can't fathom how this wouldn't bother the hell out of driver's, as the amber glow is so bright you can read by it. I covered that "lens" piece with several layers of translucent labels, which toned it down significantly.

Haven't installed the double DIN head unit yet. I temporarily reconnected the single DIN head unit braced with cardboard & foam supports to keep it from moving around. Everything works fine and hopefully I'll be able to complete the double DIN head unit install over the weekend.
 
#9,217 ·
The amber "Passenger airbag" warning light from 2009~2012 years is unbelievably bright.
I totally agree with you on that light!! It is ridiculous how bright it is. How exactly do you "pull off the indicator cover?" Did you just pry off that button?
 
#9,219 ·
As part of a double-DIN head unit install, I wanted to set up a couple of USB ports. The head unit supports 2 of them (Kenwood DDX-9904S). In addition, there are two 3.5 mm jacks, one for audio input, one for output. I installed one USB / 3.5mm jack outlet in the glove box, at the rear of the CD changer slot, to take input from hard wired audio devices. The other USB / 3.5mm jack outlet for output is installed on the driver's side wall of the center console. I considered 3 different positions for it. The one I desired most wasn't possible. It would've been situated behind the 2nd 12V outlet under the armrest unit. But unfortunately, the rolling cover would be obstructed by the 3rd insertion. On the side, it's easily out of view and yet there's enough room to plug in USB and 3.5mm jacks. Plus, it's close enough so that the cords have a little slack, making installation easier. I can now plug in headphones for listening to music if I don't want to disturb any occupants in the car.



This was a PITA to install, because I didn't have a set of triple square bits so I could loosen the driver's seat and move out of the way. There doesn't appear to be any way to remove the seat bottom while the driver's seat is attached to the rails. With the seat in the way, it's impossible to line up a drill for cutting a hole. I got a hole saw bit set and used one of them to cut a hole by hand. It was really hard work, took me about 30 mins with a couple breaks. But I finally got through. From there, I could use my Dremel with sanding tool to shave down the edges enough so that the jack module would fit.
 
#9,220 · (Edited)
#9,226 · (Edited)
Added my last external LED upgrade -- side signal indicators. Had PIAA Crystal ION 194's in place, which looked nice on their own, but clashed with the more amber looking front & rears. Sirius LED has a nice bright set for $18. No CANBUS errors. They did not fit without modification. Had to trim some of the plastic contact tab on the LED and then use a Dremel to trim a little of the signal holder opening. Just needed like 0.5 mm of the diameter trimmed off in several places.

However, I made a rash assumption. CANBUS error didn't throw initially, but did once the car was on. Really didn't want to bother with installing resistors or replacing these LED's, as the tint is really nice. So I just went into VCDS & disabled the bulb out warning for side turn signals. Great, right? WRONG. The only option presented is for "Cold Diagnosis," which is a check when electrics are first activated. But when the car is running, using the turn signal triggers the bulb out warning. And... unfortunately, VCDS does not provide access to control that. So, because I modified the bulbs, I'm going to have to install resistors. Crap.

Oh, and I wasted a boat load of hours looking around for T10 / 194 bulbs that don't throw CANBUS errors. Nobody out there is selling them with confidence that Audi VW will work. So... resistors are it, or just go back to incandescent.
 
#9,236 ·
Added some interior leather bits and hvac cubby light. Knee grab handles were a ball ache. The rear bolts ughhh.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Where'd you get the leather bits?
 
#9,244 · (Edited)
I don't use my A3 for work commuting so it ends up sitting for long periods without use. This has gradually taxed the battery. In my "previous life" I drove my car practically every day, so using a battery maintainer was unnecessary. Now, I've come to learn about how important it is to fully charge up the battery periodically. There are so many car battery chargers & maintainers available on the market, with the bulk coming from China. Lots of them are quite cheap with inflated positive reviews on Amazon. It's hard to know what's worthwhile, because stalwart brands like Stanley, Black & Decker, DeWalt, & DieHard are averaging about 3.5 stars on reviews. Finally found one that seems to be "about right" for my needs. I wanted to get a more robust charger with testing capabilities, but... I realized all but the basic functions is really all I need. If the battery can't maintain a good charge, it'll be time to replace. Pretty easy to figure that out. I just wanted something that would be useful during periods when I use my car less, to recharge the battery back up to full. I ended up getting this: "ADPOW 5A 12V Automatic Smart Battery Charger Automotive Maintainer 7-Stages Trickle Charger"



There are models that boast much higher amps, but in reality I don't mind a couple extra hours required to get a full charge. I don't plan on using this on a frequent basis. $37.99 seemed like a reasonable price relative to what else is available (too many are crappy weird designs).

After a 3 week trip over the holidays, I came back to find my A3's battery voltage at 11.9v. That's dangerously low. Thankfully the battery charger arrived the day I returned. Next day, I plugged it in. Wires are 8 gauge with an ingenious connector system (you can also just use the alligator clips). The unit has a bit of heft, made with a strong plastic casing. Photos don't do it justice. So, it ran through an initial battery check, did a boost charge, then an absorption steady current charge at 14.5v. After about 3.5 hours, it had determined that the battery needed reconditioning. 15.5v for the next 3~4 hours. After that, it ran through a test and the battery passed. However, after letting the car sit for a couple days, the resting voltage showed 12.26v. So it seems my battery isn't quite as healthy as I'd hoped. But at least this charger did a good job of salvaging it back into workable shape.

EDIT: I ran the charger system again. This time it was 50% faster. At the end, when the charger indicated "FULLY CHARGED" I tested the battery. It showed 13.75 volts. But I let it sit for about 30 mins to "settle." It came back with 12.7v. An hour later, still 12.7v. That's smack down on the 100% charge indication. Of course, will have to see how it goes from here. But for the most part, looks like my battery will last a good bit longer. FWIW, I did test voltage while car is running and it shows 13.7v, so alternator is still doing its job.
 
#9,246 · (Edited)
Took a gamble on those $13 LED side marker lights with animated display (sweeping line). They do consume enough power to avoid throwing a bulb-out error. Actually look pretty nice, decent brightness. The amber is a good tint, matches front flashers. Good enough that I've totally ditched my previous plans to try installing side mirror housings with built-in LED indicators. Actually like this setup more.

 
#9,250 ·
Love these !!

Is there a clear (rather than tinted) version?

And an obvious question - where did you buy it? (link pls?)

BTW, thanks for sharing the info on your battery charger, very helpful :thumbup:


Thanks,
 
#9,247 ·
For the 4th and probably final time, I fixed broken wires in my driver side wire loom that were not allowing the rear door to lock/window to unroll. I say final time because I’m out of slack in the wire. Next time it breaks- and it will, bc ****ty German wiring!!- I’ll just source a whole new loom. [emoji19]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#9,248 · (Edited)
For the 4th and probably final time, I fixed broken wires in my driver side wire loom that were not allowing the rear door to lock/window to unroll. I say final time because I’m out of slack in the wire. Next time it breaks- and it will, bc ****ty German wiring!!- I’ll just source a whole new loom. [emoji19]
Bummer! In my case, I used heat sensitive solder connectors--just hit it with a heat gun to make the solder fluid. No problems. Checked the other wires and they're still flexible. I wonder if wrapping them in electrical tape would help protect against future cracking?


UPDATE on my battery -- after using the charger for the 2nd time, several days later my battery's resting voltage is showing voltages between 12.42v and 12.5v. That's basically 80 to 90% of a full charge. So it seems this device did the proper measures to recondition the battery. The real test will be to let the car sit for a full week and see what's the resting voltage after that.
 
Top