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8v Build~84 Rabbit Wolfsburg Drop top

181K views 200 replies 26 participants last post by  Rabbitissimo 
#1 · (Edited)


I am calling on my fellow VW enthusiasts for some much needed advice and direction. At 430,000 KMs my car is in need of a rebuild. After I bought it, (FOR 50 BUCKS!) it sat for 3 years before I started it, and started with a jump.

It ran rough at first, (I now know it would have been better to put a fuel filter in) and has been fairly reliable, aside from battery drain. I have already corrected some electrical, like the battery to starter, battery to body ground, (this wire had 2 ground points on it originally, I just did one to the frame here) and removed other bad wiring.
I found a blue and white wire in the fuse box completely melted back.
I am guessing it was for the 12v cigarette lighter which is not hooked up.
There are a few other wires melted together there, but just the casings.
I can address the electrical by replacing wire by wire.
The other issues I have had were the long warm up period. After starting, the engine would idle very low, with the red light in the dash indicating battery, and there was 8 to 10 volts available. It seemed to keep going, though, the first couple of minutes without touching the gas pedal.
After pushing the accelerator, often past 2500 RPM, the voltage would go up to 12v, the battery light would turn off, but would drop the idle down to 500-600 if you took your foot off the gas. The idle would slowly improve if it kept running. If you tried to drive cold, there was no power and it would stall.
After 5 minutes, it would be warmed up enough to drive. By the time it was warm, the voltage was mostly steady as it was driven. It would run reliably, although it had bouncy acceleration in mid pedal. It always starts hot, and could drive right away. Not so much after 40 minutes.
When i was shifting and other times, the bar gauge was all over the place, between 1 and 3.5!
Whew!! What does it all mean?
Recently, after driving for a year, I replaced the fuel filter. That day, I kept stalling at every stop sign, but I guessed it was from really low fuel. The fuel was DIRTY!
After, it ran pretty good, better than usual. More power. I put my last 20 in the tank, and noticed the fuel pump got very loud, then quiet, then loud, then quiet. I parked the car, and it died. I can hear the pump priming when I turn the key, as usual, but I turn all the way to start, and the starter motor is trying, but no start. My car has died.
So I am in rebuild mode.
Engine as it sits now, in the Convertible:


A better view of the head; It is stamped 26103373H. (With a 52 above it). JH European head.
Solid lifter, 40 intake 33 exhaust. 8mm valve stems. Made in Germany.

This is the other side of the engine bay, with battery and air flow sensor.

Here is a pic of a mystery plug in the back behind the air sensor box, it has 3 wires leading to a female 5 slot plug. No idea where this plugs in. It has been there like that since I bought the car in 2007.


I have a brand new fuel pump, fuel injectors, seals, fuel distributor rebuild kit, (to ensure proper operation of the fuel distributor plunger).

I bought a brand new Bosch distributor, just showed up! (Old one was worn out, at about 60%)

Here is another view, has hall sender with rectangular 3 plug. Date stamp on this part is 1984, and the bottom of the shaft says 2322. The only other option was to buy a distributor with a knock sensor, and I would have had to get a computer for it and wiring harness.

Brand new Bosch ignition coil, plugs, wires, oil and fuel filter. I will likely buy a new oil pump and did buy a new warm up regulator. What else is a wearing part likely to cause me grief?????? I want a reliable car.
I am also installing a big bore throttle body, and likely stage 1 or 3 intake manifold. Tri-y headers with cat, and aluminized exhaust, new throttle cable. As for the existing TB, this is what sits in the car.

There is a tutorial but it uses a different throttle body in the photos. http://www.vintagewatercooleds.com/tech/Techtips/ATStechnotes/throttlebody/throttlebody.htm
There is another link to a page with more info on what I generally hope to accomplish.
http://www.scirocco.org/tech/mk2/5000tb/5000tb.html#fox
The one I bought has a throttle position sensor apparently, (oops) with 3 wires out the bottom of the unit. It has been pointed out by some experts the Big Bore TB in the pics will only work with an automatic, the Convertible has a manual 5 speed 020.

Here's a photo if anyone know exactly what it is. VW and Audi stamped on it, and DVG Made in W Germany on it.
There is a side panel stamped
BO 236
037
061 K
Date stamp is 1989

Could anyone identify which vacuum ports are these two (#2 and #3) and I guess #1 is the mix screw. There is also another vacuum port on the other side, not visible in this photo, But can clearly be seen here.

The two visible vacuum ports here go right through to the inside wall of the TB, the side towards the intake manifold. Advice greatly appreciated.
Another view:

So I am in the market for a Fox? or Cabriolet? Intake manifold 88-89.

Okay, transmission of power;
I found a heavy duty Sachs clutch kit, it has 20% increased clamping force.
Pressure plate, clutch disc, throwout bearing, push rod, bushing and seal, clutch cable and all new bolts, and the release arm just in case. Elring mainshaft seal; Crankshaft seal is silicone. (I will get a new flywheel if needed).


My front windshield is cracked, and the "chrome trim" is junk. I will clean corrosion and fix it.
It is leaking slightly into the car when it rains. There is a small rusty patch by the driver wiper.
I am cheap, so I will find a used glass in great shape off some old junkpile.
GLUED-IN:
1983-1984 GTI
1984 Rabbit
1983-1984 Pickup
1989-1993 Cabriolet

RUBBER SEAL:
1975-1982 All models (Rabbit, Pickup, Jetta, Rabbit Convertible)
1980-1989 Rabbit Convertible/Cabriolet

Some time in mid-late 1989 was the changeover for the Cabriolet.
2-door and 4-door models are all the same within the groups (i.e. a 1990 Cabriolet windshield will work on a 1984 Rabbit LS 4-door).
The windshield frames are all the same, so conceivably, you can swap between the two. I've gone both ways on this (put a glue-in in a rubber-style seal windshield, and put a rubber-seal into a glue-style). Each conversion has it's caveats, but it can be done. What can NOT be done, is use a glue-in windshield with a rubber seal on it. You have to glue it in place.

While everything is apart and accessible, what else do I address?
Any advice for how to make it a success?
The car itself is in great shape, and the parts were all very cheap, but good German stuff. Clearout sales abound if you are willing to spend the time to find them. For me, the last 6 months a couple of hours a day looking through the back pages of the internet. Oh, the Bentley manual is on the way too.
I just traded work for a 1983 GTI, all the serial numbers of the cis system match, and it has a 1.8 block, with 026103373f head. This engine sits with 248,000 kms, (a lot less than the 430,000 kms on the convertible engine.) I am in the process of rebuilding this GTI engine, it will be going in a hot bath next couple of days. New crankshaft, rods, pistons will be ordered soon, after verifying the block and head are in good shape. Bearings, seals and gaskets will also be new. No problem.
I will likely bore to 81.5 if necessary, and want to rebuild the head. G grind would be awesome! Scientific Rabbit or Autotech? Who to go with? Both heads I have are German. Autotech has Zylinderkopf...Port, no polish! And I do have a spare head...
Special thanks to Ze Germans for making great castings.
 
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15
#141 · (Edited)
The head has been reconditioned, all modifications complete.
Lots of fine sludge must be washed away, including the inner channels.
There was a frost plug on the side by the tensioner bolt, 24mm.
This was removed, and the entire head cleansed, dried. New plug installed with aircraft sealer.
The valvetrain has been installed with the new stem seals, after springs were checked.
Lifters and shims in, only 3 shims needed to be replaced to be within spec.
The insides of this GTI are cherry compared to the high mileage Convertible engine.


There is a good write up on adjusting valve lash here...
http://www.driversfound.com/scirocco/techtips/engine/valveadjustment/


The pistons were all turned to the middle, to ensure valves and pistons do not collide.
Notice on the head the lifters of 1 and 4 are mostly up, valves seated.
Next step was to torque the head bolts down.
This was done in 4 stages, first (in sequence) to one torque setting, then the next.
Then they required one half turn past that, breaker bar, done in (two) one quarter increments.


The next logical step was to tackle the timing.
This proved to be quite a challenge.
The dot on the intermediate sprocket is visible in the crank pulley notch.
Hold that while checking the dimple on cam side of the cam sprocket is level with the top plate.
After tensioning the roller, you can manually turn the crank for a few loops of the belt.
It should line up time and time again if you got it right, if not start again.


WARNING! DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS YOURSELF! I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR ACTIONS!
That little blue arrow above points to the crankshaft bolt that must be torqued to 148 ft/lbs!
So how do you torque down a bolt to something that spins?
The thick nylon strap broke as it tensioned the crankshaft sprocket for torquing.
What now? You could get a steel bar and drill 5 holes in it then bolt it on with throwout bolts.
Or, you could get some nylon rope, feed it down the spark plug hole so it lines the cylinder walls, make triple sure no other valves will possibly hit a piston, and torque away.
Leave enough hanging out so you do not lose it inside.

After a pause, :p the oil controller goes in, the injector cups installed with Locktite.

Now the fun stuff. Intake manifold and header time. New studs and locking copper nuts.
Stainless steel for the intake manifold.

There needed to be a solution for header to block support, and the solution is tacked in place.
The two bolts to the block were in the same condition, originally. The left one was cleaned.
Those were originally the bolts for the front motor mount of the GTI!

This was a very good solution, very strong. One of the block bolt holes needed to be tapped.
It was welded up and trimmed, awaiting a sandblast, prime and paint. Knorrigend!

This front motor mount was an extremely tight fit, even with the super grease supplied.
It ended up needing to be pressed in, not easy with no good surface to push on.


 
#142 · (Edited)
The engine is in the car! January 1, 2011! It is going to be a great year...

The car had been jacked up, and the engine slid underneath.
The chain used to hoist was previously balanced to the engine and block, helps to plan ahead.
Now the hoist is reattached to the installed chain, and the engine is pulled up into place.
As the engine raises, the CV joints had to be moved around the header, with a twist of the chain.
The rear transmission mount required the mounting bracket of the car to be unbolted.
Made the job a lot easier.
The new oxygen sensor (blue arrow) was carefully installed, it already had Never Seize on the threads.
Never get that on the sensor or it will not operate.
The yellow arrow is the electrical spade terminal for the sensor. Green wire going to ECU.

The new auxiliary air valve is ready, as well as the refreshed pipes and battery clamp.
 
#145 · (Edited)
Here is a shot underneath the car as I was going in to mount the header brace.
The wires with the ring loops on the end are grounds for the Lambda.
They were originally mounted to the cold start valve bolt, but I decided to mount them to an accessory bolt hole at the back of the block.
I figured they would have a better engine ground there, it sticks far out enough to cool off.
The female terminal is accesible from the engine bay for probing.

The driver side inner CV joint boot had been ruptured, flinging grease everywhere.
I dug out the snow, found the GTI, and got a good boot. The c clip was hard to remove.
Since the boot had ruptured, there was sand and grit in the grease. It was serviced.
Removed, cleaned, inspected and miraculously in great condition! Fresh grease, new boot.
The header brace turned out great, and performs its function very well.
The curve in it gives clearance for the CV joint and boot, and allows a ratchet access to the bolt.

Soon I will hear the engine roar to life, I am eager to experience the changes that were made.
I will play with the electrical to run the wires as neat as possible, keep them bundled.
 
#146 · (Edited)
There have been some major issues along the way with this car, some caused by me.
Some issues were misinformation from the internet causing delays due to bad advice.
I had to adjust the shift rod 18 times to have the gates lined up to get every gear.
I could have ripped the car to shreds with my bare hands I was so frustrated.
Like last night as I was replacing the cylinder head studs with shoulderless versions.
This was done so I could enjoy the peace of mind a rubber one piece valve cover gasket allows.
The very last stud was having trouble going in, so I chased the threads with a bolt.
Then the bolt dropped inside the engine. It was so late I was so tired I almost puked.
With no magnet that would fit down the tube, I left it for the night, not sure if it would be OK.
Images of the bolt chewing the crankshaft and rods to shreds haunted my dreams.
In the morning, I tried to fish it out of the oil pan with a wire, but I could not find it.
I thought I would have to tear the car apart for ONE BOLT! I was close to madness...
Then, I thought if I looked in the distributor opening I may be able to see it, and behold!
A magnet carefully fished it out. I thought for sure it was lost deep in the oil passages.

Well, the next thing I know I had rebuilt the fuel meter, and was ready to jump the fuel pump.
The stupid Bentley has no clear instructions for this process, it bounced around chapters.
I removed the power line from the alternator, and accidentally grounded it to the alt body.
Sparks were flying and I welded a spot there with it. Not sure if I wrecked the diodes.
It seems to be OK, I just grounded the power line. Worst case scenario I swap out the regulator.
My confidence was deflating, I had been feeling very sure of my abilities before yesterday.

Update: The alternator charges fine, current just grounded out through the housing to block.
So the jumper worked, and even though I could hear the pump working, no gas up front.
The old horrible fuel pump was encrusted in decay, I threw it away.
Turns out it was an aftermarket Airtex pump, installed long ago, only capable 0f 20 psi.

I know it was an Airtex pump because it had all of the same bits and pieces as this new kit.
There was the same threaded connector coming off the back of the old one on the car.
It even had that extra foam to make up the diameter of the pump to fit in the pump carrier.

The Bosch unit I bought and used is much more powerful, more pressure and higher flow rate.
The new pump went in, I had to change some of the fittings.
This area had been patched up like the Mexico US border.
Good and tight at the fittings, but the perimeter? Something's going to make it's way through.
I still have to secure the mount for the fuel pump to the car, but fuel now speeds to the front.
I bled the fuel system by removing the old injectors and placing the fuel lines into a jug.
I removed the fuel pump relay, and used an 8 gauge wire with spade ends to jump the pump.
With the fuel pump now operating, I lifted the airflow sensor plate with a magnet.
No matter how careful I was, fuel got everywhere. There should be no vapor lock this way.

The new injectors were tightened to the lines, and the new green Viton seals were slid on.
They had been soaking in gas for a while. The injectors were then put in the cups on the head.
What a horrible , almost impossible job it is getting the injectors with new seals in the cups.
The distributor rotor was lined up with the mark on the distributor body, and installed.
Spark plugs in, wires on, oil system had been primed by a hand drill with a bit on the oil pump.
The moment was here, it will fire or it will not, there is no more time, no more help, that's it.

IT ROARED TO LIFE!, and with no cat or exhaust on, the header was LOUD!
It sounded like some of the hot rods that roll out of here! In true VW style, 4 banger...
I have never experienced such an easy start from this car.
The thing that amazes me is I could move right away without bogging. WOW.
In the morning, the car will get further tuned to get the mix right and see how it drives then.
This car has not started for 6 months, almost exactly. A bicycle and a borrowed car helped tons.
I am sore, tired, greasy, smelly, cut, fumed, and the chemicals have left me raw.
But does it ever feel good.
 
#148 · (Edited)
Thanks! It really turned out to be a major project.
The best part will be taking it out into the crazy ass winter and get it filthy!
It has had an exhaust transplant, and still needs some work, it needs a glass pack.
I got the cheapest muffler I could find ($42) I will need to save for a quieter version.

I also need to figure out exhaust hangers, and get some Dynamat for noise.
Of course, there is a lot of vibration in the dash, it is old and flabby.
It is my next project, for the spring, a custom dash. I will use Bird's Eye Maple inlay.
I will shape the dash and stretch leather over it, like I saw them build for Ferrari on a show I saw.
Door panels, too. Erhaben sein ĂĽber!
 
#150 ·
Wow that is awesome bro, I definetly know how you feel after a project like that. Ive never done a full motor restoration, but I am in the process of doing so. Check out my build thread in my sig. I just got the head about done and now its the blocks turn.

I just basically read all 5 pages of your build and I gotta say you definetly did a super great job on this build.:thumbup::thumbup:

You should take some video of the motor running and post it up. That would be cool.
 
#151 · (Edited)
Love your GTI, tear it down and build it up! The only way to ensure Zuverlässigkeit!

I really wanted to take the time to thank those people who have helped me along the way.
The Bentley manual is great for stock, things change when you use different parts.
Your experience has proved invaluable, you know who you are. Thank you!

It has been a little frustrating working with an obsolete fuel system, parts hard to acquire.
Perseverance really pays off, I have pieced together the pieces I required.
Bad news; I really need to pay for a speeding ticket that was almost forgotten.
You have to pay all your outstanding tickets in B.C. before you can buy insurance.
Even more interesting, if you are caught going 40KM/h over the speed limit, they seize your car!
Brand new rules for a brand new world. Went into effect just as I was finishing the engine...

I will be posting some video soon, after I am insured, I promise.
I need to tweak the CIS with an exhaust gas analyzer and a fuel pressure gauge.
In order to do that, I will likely buy the CIS analyzer (fuel pressure) or build it.
Driving is required to go to the exhaust gas analyzer, far from here. Need insurance.
So my system is in need of tweaking, I had removed the idle screw for a new o ring.
Putting it back in, I have no idea where it sits for good idle, and with the O2 sensor compensating with the frequency valve, it is tricky. First, the throttle body must be set up.
There are set screws positioning the throttle valves properly on the top of the throttle body.
The cable then must be adjusted, then get the car hot enough to have the fan run twice.

After searching for a comprehensive process to set the fuel mixture CO, here it is, in a pinch.

http://merlyyn.com/tech/
 
#152 · (Edited)
It has been nice to take a break from this car project for a little while, life takes over.
There has been an alarming amount of snow, mixed with rain that makes for dangerous roads.
I have noticed a large change in this car; it may not be good for the winter anymore.
It seems with more power and close ratio transmission, it slips a lot, wants to spin out.
When the snow and ice are replaced with green grass once more, this car will be so much fun!
In the great rush to finish the car before the machinist left to seek his fortune, I missed a step.
Thankfully, he was back for a visit today and he brought his timing light. The car was timing out.
I fashioned a 27mm hex out of a chunk of Oak, and removed the timing bung on the bellhousing.
Power from the alternator, ground to the block, and an induction clamp around plug wire 1.
It turns out the distributor was out 15 degrees. Loosen the bolt, twist, check, tighten.
Now the engine not only starts right up, but stays running! Wooo Hooo!
I tightened the idle screw too much when I first put it in, I will have to drill an access hole.
There is just no room for my giant hands to reach it as it sits now. No gription.
(The raintray divider is in the way, I will plug the access hole with a rubber grommet after).
The warm up system works fabulously, thermo time function is great!
I think I am running a little rich, it will be dialed in soon.
The battery light still comes on during warm up, then turns off as the alternator charges it.
Electricity is still draining from the burnt wires under the dash, will address it soon.
When I install the new dash this spring I will have complete access to the wiring.
Everything else seems to work well, it will not be long before I can get it on the road.
I know a special section of road I would like you all to witness this car devour.
Rickety sections of old rock faced roads hugging a precarious cliff that drops off 500 feet into the jagged depths of a lake so deep you may actually see the Loch Ness monster!
:pic:
 
#154 · (Edited)
Thanks!
I hope this will be helpful when you decide the time is right to fix your Cabby!
This is proof that if a person is determined and decides to make a dream a reality you can.
Many times I was faced with a task with which I had no experience to guide me.
We can prepare by learning everything there is to know on the subject, and try to understand.
There is no education like getting your hands dirty. No book or online tutorial can equal.
Often the only way to comprehend what the book was trying to explain was by looking at parts.
It only made sense when I could actuate a lever and see the movement.
Pre-reading the book prepared me for the unexpected, potential problems averted.

As far as costs, if you are willing to shop around, you can really save a ton of cash.
I actually saved way over a thousand dollars compared to some of the pricing elsewhere.

Used 1984 Rabbit Convertible.........................$ 50
Used 1983 Rabbit GTI....................................$500 value or work trade
Used windshield.............................................$ 20
New Windshield seal.......................................$ 32
Used Audi 5000? throttle body.........................$139
Remanufactured in Germany AL27X alternator..$ 99
Optima battery..............................................$152
Bosch distributor............................................$ 99
Bosch control pressure regulator/WUR.............$ 75
Bosch fuel pump............................................$166
Bosch cold start valve.....................................$162
Bosch fuel distributor metering valve................$ 49
Bosch spark plug wires....................................$ 37
Bosch spark plugs w7dc(German 10 pack)........$ 27
Bosch ignition coil...........................................$ 49
Bosch auxiliary air valve.................................$ 61
Bosch fuel injectors 4@22................................$ 88
Viton fuel injector seals 4@1............................$ 4
Injector cups 4@50 cents!................................$ 2
Valve guide 8@1.............................................$ 8
Flywheel........................................................$140
Sachs HD clutch kit.........................................$ 80
Clutch bits:Bolts, seals, bushings, bearings.......$ 70
Clutch push rod..............................................$ 20
Gear shift repair kit........................................$ 20
Shifter linkages..............................................$ 5
Polyurethane bushing kit.................................$ 70
Autotech Tri Y Header.....................................$299
Magnaflow Hi Flo catalytic converter.................$109
Exhaust joints 4@16........................................$ 64
Bosch oxygen Lambda sensor..........................$ 25
Exhaust pipe...................................................$ 15
Muffler...........................................................$ 42
52 stainless fasteners......................................$ 57
Complete engine gasket set.............................$ 42
KS Kolbenschmidt main bearings......................$ 42
KS Kolbenschmidt rod bearings........................$ 20
Intermediate shaft bearings.............................$ 20
Mahle piston ring set.......................................$ 20
VW cylinder head bolts....................................$ 28
Connecting rod bolts & nuts.............................$ 40
Freeze plugs...................................................$ 12
Throttle cable.................................................$ 25
Clutch cable...................................................$ 22
Bentley..........................................................$ 39
Timing belt tensioner & belt..............................$ 25
Windage Tray.................................................$ 49
Oil controller...................................................$ 5
Ignition switch.................................................$ 6
Assorted hoses................................................$100
Rubber 1 piece valve cover gasket....................$ 15
Bosch premium oil filter....................................$ 5
Bosch fuel filter................................................$ 11
Water temperature sensor................................$ 5
Various fluids...................................................$ 80

And much more, like hose clamps, nuts, studs, gaskets electrical & other incidentals that add up!
Speaking of electrical, wire alone must have been at least $200!
Excluding the vehicle costs, the parts amounted to around $3000! So far!
I believe that was what I paid as a down payment for a new car once, with $15,000 left to pay!
Totally worth it.
 
#156 · (Edited)
Just like everyone has been saying. There is definitely a lot of vibrations.
On the plus side, the engine does not rock, it is held tightly in place.
But... I just want to get the rubber diesel mount set with new EPMD cushions, ASAP.
This will be my very next purchase and install, to be followed by suspension a bit later.
I am seriously considering a Jom coilover, anyone used them? Opinions?
I will also find new control arms with rubber bushings, ball joint and tie rods.
Some Dynamat needs to be installed in the firewall, to keep the header noise down.
I love the header! It really does make the car feel different.
The other priorities are a glass pack and better hangers for the exhaust.
These things really do make a big difference in ride comfort, especially with a rag top.
Now that I understand how the power is transmitted, that bit of flex and cushion really help.
Insurance is coming up within days, I will finally see how much enthusiasm this car has.
I still haven't had a chance to take it out yet, but any minute now...

I cannot stop thinking about design potential in the interior!
All I am certain of is the dash will also have rubber mounts, to eliminate vibration.
Door panels will not be very hard, just takes time, and careful measuring to get the 2 sides right.
 
#158 · (Edited)
Immense difficulty quantifying reaktion.

Just arrived back after the very first drive in this car.:laugh::eek::laugh:
There are only moments before I must go again.
Insured to maximum, it is time for wheels to the pavement.
The link http://merlyyn.com/tech/ for setting the air fuel idle had very good tune instructions.
The throttle body idle screw could not be turned, because the soft brass notch was gibbled.
I mangled it accidentally after the bit disengaged the notch. No wonder the idle wouldn't change.
The throttle body was removed, hoses and lines detached. A small operation of screw removal.
The long TB screw works just fine, and has a 7mm end sticking out. I used the new viton o ring.
Turns out the air fuel mix was out, I discovered the solenoid of the idle boost valve works.
Undulating. Weird. Then, you get it just right and everything settles down, runs nicely. Amazing.
It is a loud car, but it rips. I can drive, no- ...creep along with the close ratio transmission.
Real slow, it was amazing. The old power train (hah) would not work at low speed.
I was talking to a guy from Germany today, he said back in the 80's youngsters would save.
Save every penny in hopes to buy a GTI. All they wanted was a GTI to thrill the girls.

So very different than the car what was.
Fourth gear now is like the old 3rd. Fifth gear in this car is too fast to stay on the road here!
And the roads are bone dry!
The clutch is so very silky smooth. Pure grip. No slip.
The motor mounts are proving to be very good. Settling in. They may just have to stay.
Much less vibration than before. I gotta go!

I have to go drive! C ya
 
#159 · (Edited)


Not even 500 Km and I did a new oil change, just hours ago. The rings must be seated by now.
Oil was already dirty, the new rings shaving the honing marks off the cylinder walls.
Transmission fluid was "unknown condition" so I changed that frothy stuff too.
What a brutal task! Trying to squeeze 80-90 into a horizontal hole behind the wheel?
Could they have just given us a nice easy filler spot! BTW, can you fill into the speedo hole?

Before the repairs, this much mileage would have used most of a tank of gas.
I have barely used 1/8 of a tank!
 
#160 · (Edited)


I have been watching this on and off since you started. Around the time you started I was putting my freshly rebuilt JH into my 85 scirocco. I rushed it a bit and ended up cutting some corners. I absolutely love your attention to detail. It will make the car that much better down the road. I have had to put most of my weekends in the last 6 months into fixing the mistakes I made. My car is finally doing really great.

Persistence and Patients are definitely the keys to building these cars. My 85 8v makes me smile every day I drive it. There is nothing quite like tearing up the streets every day in a car you re-built with your own two hands

Once again I applaud you.

 
#163 · (Edited)
My 85 8v makes me smile every day I drive it. There is nothing quite like tearing up the streets every day in a car you re-built with your own two hands

Once again I applaud you.


Nice job!
Definitely an Awsome job man, I am working on an 83 rabbit gti myself and I saw your build thread and its great. You did an awsome job. :thumbup:

Thank you! I know exactly what you mean, it feels so good. I will be out there with the top down!
It has been about 1000 KMs, and it is running very smooth. I do still have some tweaking yet...
A recent drive was 4 hours one way, I had all of my tools in the back seat, just in case.
The only issue was the amplifier ground had to be redone along the way.
Now that it is settling in, I will post video soon of the drive I promised.
I am impressed with the MK1 dubbers. Dub on.:thumbup:
 
#162 ·
Definitely an Awsome job man, I am working on an 83 rabbit gti myself and I saw your build thread and its great. You did an awsome job. :thumbup:

For the oil question- Yes you can fill the transmission through the speedo cable opening but you have to check the level through the side hole.
 
#166 ·
After driving this car daily for a while, A few issues have presented themselves.
My custom exhaust is just slightly tapping on the heat shield sometimes.
Right where it goes up and over the rear beam. Superbly annoying.
I should have more exhaust hangers, but the cat one was destroyed when it came out.
I never bothered to put one in there to replace it.
Everything on the car is going to have to get re-torqued and locktite.
The plastic trim in the front of the car rattles.
The plastic shroud protecting the lower timing belt warped and is touching the belt.
It makes a very annoying noise.
The dash is rattling a lot, but sticky goo helped. At different RPM, different bits rattle.
I need to re-tighten the header and manifold bolts.

Worst of all, the transmission blew a drive seal, leaking (flinging). It was OK when I had it out.
If it ain't broke don't fix it. Well now it broke. I will go through a good inspection as well.

My suspension is horrible, old and threatens to throw me off the road.
I need new control arms, new ball joints, new rubber control arm bushings, tie rods.
I think I will go with Bilstein shocks, keep my ride height. The roads here are bad.
New strut mounts, and bushings. They will be coming soon.
However, I do need a bit of advice with what springs to use with Bilstein strut assemblies.
I do not wish to lower the car. Clearance is a big deal to me on these bad roads.

Other than that this car has brought a smile to my face over and over.
I had a couple of guys that didn't want to be passed by a Rabbit, and tried to race forward.
I passed them anyway. That feels so good.
 
#167 ·
Still driving! Parts are slowly showing up for the suspension and steering.
Just got back from an epic month long journey drove 2500 Kms, went to 4 epic festivals.
The car held steady, I had recently installed a new radiator fan motor because the other was failing.
Lots more to come soon when the rest of the parts arrive...
Suspension rebuild!
 
#168 ·
So it has been a while...
So far just minor issues, a full brake rebuild front and back just happened.
Brand new calipers and rotors and pads on the front, already rusty from winter.
Brand new drums, cylinders, wheel bearings, spring kit and shoes for the back.
You would never know, looking at it.
Had a major problem recently. Heater core failure. What a mess!
Just installed a brand new one after draining out all fluids.
It was not so bad for this vehicle, just undid the four screws under the hood at the fan and the whole box drops down. With some careful wriggling, it will clear the pedal cluster and slide right out for replacement. I will not say it was easy, it took me SO LONG! The most frustrating thing so far.
Will have pics soon!
New oil cooler to replace the old one...
Just put in a new fuel filter. One one side, crystal clear gas and the other a foul mess.
I am so glad it was working.
New oil filter, new fluids and I will be on my way. Good time to recharge the K&N filter too.
 
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