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8v Build~84 Rabbit Wolfsburg Drop top

181K views 200 replies 26 participants last post by  Rabbitissimo 
#1 · (Edited)


I am calling on my fellow VW enthusiasts for some much needed advice and direction. At 430,000 KMs my car is in need of a rebuild. After I bought it, (FOR 50 BUCKS!) it sat for 3 years before I started it, and started with a jump.

It ran rough at first, (I now know it would have been better to put a fuel filter in) and has been fairly reliable, aside from battery drain. I have already corrected some electrical, like the battery to starter, battery to body ground, (this wire had 2 ground points on it originally, I just did one to the frame here) and removed other bad wiring.
I found a blue and white wire in the fuse box completely melted back.
I am guessing it was for the 12v cigarette lighter which is not hooked up.
There are a few other wires melted together there, but just the casings.
I can address the electrical by replacing wire by wire.
The other issues I have had were the long warm up period. After starting, the engine would idle very low, with the red light in the dash indicating battery, and there was 8 to 10 volts available. It seemed to keep going, though, the first couple of minutes without touching the gas pedal.
After pushing the accelerator, often past 2500 RPM, the voltage would go up to 12v, the battery light would turn off, but would drop the idle down to 500-600 if you took your foot off the gas. The idle would slowly improve if it kept running. If you tried to drive cold, there was no power and it would stall.
After 5 minutes, it would be warmed up enough to drive. By the time it was warm, the voltage was mostly steady as it was driven. It would run reliably, although it had bouncy acceleration in mid pedal. It always starts hot, and could drive right away. Not so much after 40 minutes.
When i was shifting and other times, the bar gauge was all over the place, between 1 and 3.5!
Whew!! What does it all mean?
Recently, after driving for a year, I replaced the fuel filter. That day, I kept stalling at every stop sign, but I guessed it was from really low fuel. The fuel was DIRTY!
After, it ran pretty good, better than usual. More power. I put my last 20 in the tank, and noticed the fuel pump got very loud, then quiet, then loud, then quiet. I parked the car, and it died. I can hear the pump priming when I turn the key, as usual, but I turn all the way to start, and the starter motor is trying, but no start. My car has died.
So I am in rebuild mode.
Engine as it sits now, in the Convertible:


A better view of the head; It is stamped 26103373H. (With a 52 above it). JH European head.
Solid lifter, 40 intake 33 exhaust. 8mm valve stems. Made in Germany.

This is the other side of the engine bay, with battery and air flow sensor.

Here is a pic of a mystery plug in the back behind the air sensor box, it has 3 wires leading to a female 5 slot plug. No idea where this plugs in. It has been there like that since I bought the car in 2007.


I have a brand new fuel pump, fuel injectors, seals, fuel distributor rebuild kit, (to ensure proper operation of the fuel distributor plunger).

I bought a brand new Bosch distributor, just showed up! (Old one was worn out, at about 60%)

Here is another view, has hall sender with rectangular 3 plug. Date stamp on this part is 1984, and the bottom of the shaft says 2322. The only other option was to buy a distributor with a knock sensor, and I would have had to get a computer for it and wiring harness.

Brand new Bosch ignition coil, plugs, wires, oil and fuel filter. I will likely buy a new oil pump and did buy a new warm up regulator. What else is a wearing part likely to cause me grief?????? I want a reliable car.
I am also installing a big bore throttle body, and likely stage 1 or 3 intake manifold. Tri-y headers with cat, and aluminized exhaust, new throttle cable. As for the existing TB, this is what sits in the car.

There is a tutorial but it uses a different throttle body in the photos. http://www.vintagewatercooleds.com/tech/Techtips/ATStechnotes/throttlebody/throttlebody.htm
There is another link to a page with more info on what I generally hope to accomplish.
http://www.scirocco.org/tech/mk2/5000tb/5000tb.html#fox
The one I bought has a throttle position sensor apparently, (oops) with 3 wires out the bottom of the unit. It has been pointed out by some experts the Big Bore TB in the pics will only work with an automatic, the Convertible has a manual 5 speed 020.

Here's a photo if anyone know exactly what it is. VW and Audi stamped on it, and DVG Made in W Germany on it.
There is a side panel stamped
BO 236
037
061 K
Date stamp is 1989

Could anyone identify which vacuum ports are these two (#2 and #3) and I guess #1 is the mix screw. There is also another vacuum port on the other side, not visible in this photo, But can clearly be seen here.

The two visible vacuum ports here go right through to the inside wall of the TB, the side towards the intake manifold. Advice greatly appreciated.
Another view:

So I am in the market for a Fox? or Cabriolet? Intake manifold 88-89.

Okay, transmission of power;
I found a heavy duty Sachs clutch kit, it has 20% increased clamping force.
Pressure plate, clutch disc, throwout bearing, push rod, bushing and seal, clutch cable and all new bolts, and the release arm just in case. Elring mainshaft seal; Crankshaft seal is silicone. (I will get a new flywheel if needed).


My front windshield is cracked, and the "chrome trim" is junk. I will clean corrosion and fix it.
It is leaking slightly into the car when it rains. There is a small rusty patch by the driver wiper.
I am cheap, so I will find a used glass in great shape off some old junkpile.
GLUED-IN:
1983-1984 GTI
1984 Rabbit
1983-1984 Pickup
1989-1993 Cabriolet

RUBBER SEAL:
1975-1982 All models (Rabbit, Pickup, Jetta, Rabbit Convertible)
1980-1989 Rabbit Convertible/Cabriolet

Some time in mid-late 1989 was the changeover for the Cabriolet.
2-door and 4-door models are all the same within the groups (i.e. a 1990 Cabriolet windshield will work on a 1984 Rabbit LS 4-door).
The windshield frames are all the same, so conceivably, you can swap between the two. I've gone both ways on this (put a glue-in in a rubber-style seal windshield, and put a rubber-seal into a glue-style). Each conversion has it's caveats, but it can be done. What can NOT be done, is use a glue-in windshield with a rubber seal on it. You have to glue it in place.

While everything is apart and accessible, what else do I address?
Any advice for how to make it a success?
The car itself is in great shape, and the parts were all very cheap, but good German stuff. Clearout sales abound if you are willing to spend the time to find them. For me, the last 6 months a couple of hours a day looking through the back pages of the internet. Oh, the Bentley manual is on the way too.
I just traded work for a 1983 GTI, all the serial numbers of the cis system match, and it has a 1.8 block, with 026103373f head. This engine sits with 248,000 kms, (a lot less than the 430,000 kms on the convertible engine.) I am in the process of rebuilding this GTI engine, it will be going in a hot bath next couple of days. New crankshaft, rods, pistons will be ordered soon, after verifying the block and head are in good shape. Bearings, seals and gaskets will also be new. No problem.
I will likely bore to 81.5 if necessary, and want to rebuild the head. G grind would be awesome! Scientific Rabbit or Autotech? Who to go with? Both heads I have are German. Autotech has Zylinderkopf...Port, no polish! And I do have a spare head...
Special thanks to Ze Germans for making great castings.
 
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#81 · (Edited)
drive flange grease seal

My favorite oddball possible problem with MK2 VW: Notice the green grease seal in the drive flange. It can come loose if the flange wobbles too much on the output shaft splines. The seal is right up against the output shaft is why. OIL will actually seep through a deliberately created open slot in the splines of the output shaft/drive flange and then past the loose seal. The resulting liquid mix of oil and moly grease can actually rupture the CV joint boot. Ridiculous. VW changed to a force fit drive flange which I believe is incompatible.
 
#82 · (Edited)
(MK1... or, alternately A1, whichever you choose...)
So there has been parts arriving in a steady stream...
All the while work goes on.
I have taken time to disassemble the head with great care to arrange all parts in the order they come out.
If anything is in great shape, it will likely still work.
The solid shim under bucket lifters are like new, and fit properly.
I may need to change the shims, likely.

After a lot of time and effort...Something to work with.

Same thing for the valves and springs...
That is the metal housing for the shifter, all cleaned up and ready for paint.
That was gnarly. I wish I had a before shot...

The face of the GTI looks 26 years younger.
I love the way it came out.
I can barely wait to build this back up! I still have to paint...

There is still work to be done, and the flat surfaces will be resurfaced, just barely.
A little difficult to see, but there is some porting.
There will likely be a 3 angle valve job if that is truly my destiny.
 
#83 · (Edited)
This is the best part of all...
I had faith that the Cylinder Head was going to be flat and true.
I somehow believed Aluminum, being less likely to rust, would survive living in a field.
I remember the first time I came to see the GTI sitting down there.
I took one look at it and said to myself, "What a piece of junk. No one would ever want it."
I was reading a lot, and there was a lot of good qualities in that particular engine and tranny.
Then, I was talking one day with my cuz, who builds engines.
He said the rust is almost always only on the surface of quality castings, like old Chevy blocks.
Or, this vintage of VW watercooled. Should be in good shape under all of that oil and rust.
These old blocks are also seasoned, and will ultimately produce more power than a new block.
I took the chance, very skeptical. He was right.


The small hone had arrived, and there is a nice cross hatch on the smooth walls.
Special thanks to this master mechanic helping the job along.
Just waiting for bearings and gaskets!
 
#85 · (Edited)
FINALLY!

The Bentley has arrived!
I got more info in a half hour reading this book than I could obtain in all my internet searching.
There is lots of misinformation out there in Internetland.
I still think the Bentley has a few errors...

But aside from a couple of misleading statements, this book is incredibly informative.
That green on red is psychedelic...
 
#86 · (Edited)
I have made a decision on how to proceed with this build.
The head is being ported according to an article by David Vizard.





Special thanks to Jettaboy1884 for posting this on a thread here in VWVortex.
The Three angle valve job and radiusing will be employed.
According to the article, the Intake port on the head will suffer if polished, so it will be left rough.
As far as I can tell, it suggests to polish the exhaust, to expel the gases quickly.
For now, I will only be replacing a few parts inside the head.
A Valve kit is something I could install just by removing the valve cover.
I have brand new valve guides, valve stem seals, injector holders and gaskets for the head.
I almost ruined this head when one of the injector holders got stripped on the way out.
I had to use a cold chisel to carefully remove it, chunk by chunk.
The valves will be back cut, but otherwise are not very worn.
I will likely go with OEM valves if I do buy new later, but mine are in great shape for now.
I am aware small stem valves and guides exist (7mm), will increase flow, but I cannot justify it now.
After the car is running smoothly, I will look at that option.
Most likely scenario? I will do that to the head in the Cabby.
 
#87 · (Edited)
Some of the essential parts have arrived!
For the main and rod bearings, I really wanted to find KSKolbenschmidt, original supplier to VW.
I found them!


Even after reading the Bentley Manual, there was no real explanation on resistor and non resistor plugs or wires. As far as I can tell by searching, you use resistor plugs (WR7DC) with non resistor wires, OR non resistor plugs (W7DC) with resistor wires. The whole ignition system cannot exceed something like 13,000 ohms resistance. Then there is heat range, (W8DC), etc. etc... for upgraded/boosted cars. Even platinum, instead of copper (WR7DP), four prong platinum (WR7DP+). The old school guys say Bosch single copper is best. No foul. Problem is, the German ones are long gone. China is stepping up to make non resistor Bosch plugs again.
Please, if anyone knows more about this, or has correct info, I will edit this post.
 
#88 · (Edited)
Since my warm up period was long and erratic, and the fuel system on the GTI was not much better than the Convertible, I decided to replace some essentials. Lambda O2 sensor is still coming...

According to the Bentley manual, the Fuel Distributor control plunger (meter) cannot be replaced due to each being precision fit to its housing. It can, however, be cleaned.
http://www.vintagewatercooleds.com/tech/2007/cleaning-the-cis-airflow-sensor/
The Bentley has a section on adjusting system pressure. (Fuel).
If the (fuel) system pressure is not between 4.70 and 5.40 bar (68 and 78 psi), it can be adjusted with shims. If it cannot be adjusted, you have to replace the fuel distributor.
The Fuel Distributor is $1280, obsolete and cannot be obtained. There are aftermarket options that cost $550 or more, original rebuilt for $480 but you need a core.
That is why I bought a replacement Pressure Relief Valve for $50. Bosch NOS. German.
It is the primary control pressure regulator. The WUR is the secondary.

Now that the Bentley is here, I know how to isolate an electrical fault to a particular fuse.
That is worth the price of the book in itself.
I will be able to track down which fuse hides the power leak, then troubleshoot just that circuit.
I will take some photos of how this is done when I find the leak.
It is not simple; the electrical diagrams are like reading Pyramid walls!
Now, what does the bird sitting on a wavy snake mean again?.....
 
#89 · (Edited)
Lots of the metal housings are being sandblasted and refreshed and painted.


This is definitely a lot of work but how tacky would it be if I just left these rusty?
You can see how pitted the belt cover was, it was stripped to bare metal, and the rust was really aggressive on this particular surface.
Recognize the shift housing? It was bare bones not long ago.
Rust is the enemy. Fight to win!
 
#91 · (Edited)
Anything you would do differently?
Would you share that type of information, or is it an industry secret?
Are the valve angles the same?
Obviously the seat sizes do not make sense for a 1.8 as shown from the article.
Essentially, the principles are the same.
Or are they?
Have there been any books published relating to the JH engine and performance?
It should not be this difficult to find info on a 28 year old engine.
 
#93 ·
The casting flash left in the block from its creation was sharp and can promote failure of the block.
Aside from that, this was very finely machined block.
I took the time to grind it smooth and blend it in with the general shape of the curves.
The machinist here told me the metal is much stronger than the American blocks he works on.
It took a long time to grind, and as it was my first time, I was just making sure my hand did not slip.
One nick in the wrong spot and game over.
I suspect these blocks were heat-oil treated by Germany.

There was a very rough patch right next to the oil pump seat, I just smoothed it out.
These arrows indicate the spots that were blended.


There is a strange bump of metal indicated by the?
I am just going to leave that alone. Was it welded? Part of the process of creation?
Maybe it is structural...
 
#94 · (Edited)
More parts arrived!
I did not know what gasket kit to buy. tt sells a great gasket kit for $140. Very tempting.
It was in the budget to buy the Techtonics set, it has every (German) seal for the engine.
I decided that I would go with these instead.
I still had enough left over to buy a Bosch Auxiliary Air valve.

I do have some excellent seals I can substitute for ones I do not like in this kit.
I need mostly just the O rings and Head Gasket.
I'm sure they will hold.

There is not a single store within 300 miles that carries the vacuum line I need.
I could not find it in any online store, except one. I needed nothing else from them.
So, I got it through the buyers group the Machinist uses.
Turns out Mercedes still has them! I thought I was getting hose and line, but it was all vacuum line.

I have already found the vacuum hose anyway. I will likely have extra.

Even though a lot has shown up, there is still more to come.
I have dealt with a lot of different companies, a couple have been exceptional.
No one seems to have all the things you need. I am spending the most on OEM Bosch parts.
Even those are a good deal, but good luck finding them.
Border crossing fees are ridiculously expensive. WOW!
A reliable car? Priceless....

Lots to do tomorrow......
 
#95 · (Edited)
I spent most of my time yesterday cleaning the pistons.
They were soaked in solution then washed clean.
The piston ring grooves still had lots of grime in them that would interfere with a proper seat.
The (oil?) holes in the pistons were all so plugged that I could not push the gunk through.
I ended up using a tiny drill bit to drill the gunk out.
Most came out in logs, still holding the shape of the passage.
I completely disassembled the pistons and rods, removed the old bolts, and cleaned the sticky varnish.
All the while taking note of original assembly position.
I am confident they will work great when re-assembled.
The connecting rods are forged. Strong as the day they were made.
I am taking the time to do things properly now so I can enjoy the silky smoothness later.
 
#96 · (Edited)
Work continues on the block and head, lots to do.
A wire brush cleans up the surfaces of the sides of the block where the crankshaft plate mounts.
There is great difficulty in finding the hollow pins that are pressed into the sides.
Without them removed, a stone cannot flatten the surface.
Since I cannot find them, a wire brush will do.


The motor brackets were cleaned recently, and today they were sandblasted.
Cannot have engine grease in the blasting cabinet.
Peering into the cabinet through the glass with my hands inserted into the long attached gloves felt strange, must be what the Doctor feels like helping bubble boy.
They were stripped and ready for paint.



This motor mount was a bit frustrating today.
The old mount insert in it had a rusty metal sleeve with a rubber middle.
There was not enough of a lip on it to press it out, so I had to do it the hard way.
I used screwdrivers and chisels and pounded the inside edge back, to try to remove the sleeve.
It took what seems like forever. I got it out.
Getting the new mount in will be easy with the hydraulic press, there is enough support pushing in.


When I got back today, I discovered the bushings had arrived!


The mounting brackets that will hold them turned out great.


I want to proceed with the valve job in the morning, but I really need to know what exactly I need to do in what dimension. I wish Vizard's article was for this exact head.
I will be sending out the Convertible head for a proper cnc port and new valve kit, this one I just want to tweak and get running.
I will probably be searching for a JH porting thread all night.
 
#98 ·
This has been my view lately...

Just getting everything prepped for the build, I have been waiting for the connecting rod nuts to arrive.
Since I have the time while the parts are in transit, it is good to refresh some rusty old metal.
I still cannot believe how effective this process is at renewing metal.
The distributor gaskets were really cheap, heavily discounted, and they only had 6 so I got 'em all.
I know I will be pulling that thing out for tweaking.

Tomorrow I will be washing the block with hot soapy water and cleaning the passages.
A long stem wire brush will scrub deep inside the passages. High pressure air will blast it out.
I am surprised how plugged up an engine can get.
 
#99 · (Edited)
Spark plugs and wires

More on your fuel system: the plastic fuel reservoir/mixer is directly above the fuel pump - on my 1987 anyways. This has a full length screen built into it. Could clean or replace it.

About the standard plug wires: The wire itself has nearly no resistance, so the total R is:
1,000 built into the distributor rotor and then the plug wire ends (5,000 + 1,000). Sum=7,000 ohms
Another oddball VW repair story: The chain stores will sell you a rotor with ZERO resistance. They look identical. I was stuck on an exit ramp off of I-255 with a completely vaporized distributor rotor! All but the cylindrical part of it turned to dust.
The Bosch platinum+4 plugs work fine and last years. I just brush off the deposits is all.

The 1980-84 Bentley manual does not include the transfer pump at all. The wiring diagram has the CIS controls all over the 9 pages. The 1985 Bentley manual has the complete fuel system done on pages 1, 2. However, to save $$, many photos and rebuilding sections are gone. I have a PDF of it - $5 on ebay, then it cost me $25 to print it out.

Valve cover gasket - can buy a one piece rubber version. Worth the $$ to avoid an unseen oil leak dripping down (inside the timing covers) onto a spinning axle and attacking all rubber parts behind engine. I am using one from a 1996 2.0L but with the stud rings removed.

The valve job: "Water-Cooled Volkswagen Performance Handbook By Greg Raven" 1987 or 1999 and much of it is on google books. His esteemed advice is to pay a pro, but does mention 60 deg angle into the port, and as in Bentley, 45/30 angles and specified seat widths. 1985 Bentley shows the 60 deg cut, with no dimensions.
 
#100 ·
The 1980-84 Bentley manual does not include the transfer pump at all.
I know! and yet when I went to inspect the fuel level sender it had the plug and two tubes on the top.
Exactly like the one I saw online doing an in tank pump repair.
I am waiting for clamps and hose before I go in there.
My car was made in May 1984 in Germany for the Canadian market. It is a little different.
It was right on the cusp of the change from Rabbit Convertible to Cabriolet.

How to do the valve job: Greg Raven - "Water-Cooled Volkswagen Performance Handbook By Greg Raven" 1987 or 1999 and much of it is on google books. His esteemed advice is to pay a pro, but does mention 60/45/30 angles and that seat width is critical: 2.0 mm intake & 2.4 mm exhaust.
Thanks a million; I have noticed that book round the way.
I almost bought it 3 times but a rare part always won precedence.
Is there a way for you to add a pic of the diagram of valve and seat angles?
The machinist that is helping me has the valve and seat grinders here.
All he needs is the degrees and seat width.
Searched the forums and not much came up for this specific head.
He has blueprinted many many engines (never VW) and has a trained eye.
All of his suggestions were very close to what the Vizard article was suggesting.
This GTI head has 40mm intake valves, and 33mm exhaust valves.
I will be back-cutting the valves, there is a ridge on them.
I am going to be very light with my porting on this head, so it can be done properly later.
Just smooth bumps out, blend, and remove any protrusions.
I want to get the engine built up and running, and send the Cabby head out to the Pros.
The heads are easy to swap out anytime.
 
#101 · (Edited)
Spent more time today on the intake manifold, mainly trying to remove the carbon and grease.
Lots of scrubbing and pressure washing was required.
Now that it is clean enough, it can be shot with glass bead to refresh the outside surfaces.


Couple more necessities are here, I still haven't broken the $2000 mark for the entire project!
Including a couple more shipments still on the way.
(Not including my arrangement for the used GTI motor and Transaxle).


The alternator is for some 89 VW models, 90 amps. Remanufactured in Germany.
The mounting bracket from the GTI motor fits!
The connectors are different, this one can accept huge wire, spade terminal.
The old alternator was 65 amp, and was not charging well.
The wires were small, with special plugs.
I also have new blue exciter wire to run to the dash.
That tells the alternator to charge the battery.
Hopefully I will not have an alignment issue with the belt. I can get an adapter if need be.
 
#102 · (Edited)
This post has been deleted
#106 · (Edited)
The last parts shipment came in today, just in time for an absence of skilled hands.
The mechanic assisting me isn't available until Tuesday or Wednesday.
This last package had the Windage tray, and other essential seals.
I later discovered the oil dipstick was not going to work on the GTI motor.
The shaft on the block is short and the tube too small in diameter to fit the funnel portion.
The Rabbit Convertible engine has a long flared dipstick tube, it fits perfectly to the funnel.
That is just fine, because I discovered the original GTI one in the trunk recently! It's good!


I guess that is not the last of it. I still need exhaust parts!
I want to buy a 4-5" round stainless muffler, (2.5" in. & ex.) with slanted Ti burnt tip.

Just header, cat, pipe & muffler.
Use 2.25" pipe, weld and/or bend here.
What does a resonator do?
What will happen if I exclude a resonator?

There was recently a slight setback; the Intermediate Shaft bearings I ordered were too small on the inside diameter by about 20 thousandths of an inch, even though the part numbers matched.
Catalog error; A new set had to be ordered; they now fit perfectly.
 
#107 · (Edited)
So I was left with the grinder, a variable speed plug, and three carbide bits for aluminum.
My mission? To rough out the inside of the runners with an aggressive tooth.
There were a few annoying bumps inside the runners, they had to be ground down.
The yellow arrows indicate what disrupted flow due to excess aluminum, imperfect bends.
These areas were thicker due to the mounting bolt allowances.
I had to take great care not to remove any more than necessary in these spots.
Removing too much would make the manifold weak and prone to failure.

There was an outline of carbon deposits to follow for the general shape of the porting.
It matched the gasket shape, and will still need some fine tuning to get it as good as possible..

I am an artist and a sculptor, and I made my way through the opening.
Down the Rabbit hole I went, twisting and turning, the sights stranger all the while.
Checking constantly with my touch, I made sure the runners open up as balanced as possible.
A little progress one tube at a time keeps it consistent.
It was a little difficult as each tube bends a different angle, I had to carefully observe and maintain the equal balance of all while trying to remove material in fattest spots.

So due to global warming it is mid October and there is sunshine and grass.
Here in Canada, Igloo season is postponed for now.
It is cold; it won't be long now...

To be completely honest, I was terrified of doing this modification, and it has delayed me.
I just had to educate myself as best I could, and just dive in and get a feel for it.
It did not take long to understand the best angle for the cutter to slice nice.
Firmly locked body held the tool in a grip less prone to chatter. Movements were very deliberate.


Emery cloth or sandpaper will smooth out and further shape the runner walls, but will not polish;
It is coarse enough to leave a good scratch on the walls.
Good thing too, it's getting pretty rough.The bit I used to get way in deep was scary.
It runs at 25,000 rpm and when it starts, it bends out into a cone then runs straight again.
I really had to hold on with a white knuckle grip. What a monster!


The new valve guides have been installed, and are sitting pretty.
 
#108 · (Edited)
So back to the old grind... I have got to be the slowest ever at fixing a car.
It is a good thing it is not a race.
So, in order to do a good job on this head, I had to prepare properly.
The last couple of days were spent researching.
I read http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4628897-Porting-the-8v-head..... on this forum, and looked at EVERY LINK and got a really good understanding of what exactly is desired in porting and flow, wanting to maintain velocity for the low end.
The cutaways were a big help.
I put some studs into the head to align the gasket.
The gasket now matches the intake manifold perfectly. Now it's the head's turn!
Here is the exhaust gasket being used for scribing.

Now I have coated the surface with dye.
Carefully scribed marks indicate the ideal path.





I know a lot of people like to grind down the valve guides.
I am just not convinced after watching the old guides pressed out.
There was a good taper on the new guides, and I will still clean up the boss area, just a bit.
I am not going extreme on this, just align boring and bump grinding.
I also radiused the sharp edge on the tight inner turn, ever so slightly.
Stone ground for blending shapes, it takes a long time and just smooths.
No flow bench here, just going on touch.
Be the air...
Whooosh
I know it is better than it was.
 
#110 · (Edited)
Thanks Majic!
There is still some detailing to do, not much.
Today I finished blasting the intake manifold, prepping for primer.
I am using a high temp engine enamel, it requires good prep and a specific primer.
I have done the same to all the alternator brackets, and any ferrous accessory on the block.
The manifold was the only aluminum that will be painted.


The valve cover has a nice coating inside still, so I was careful not to disturb it.
Care was taken especially when sandblasting time came, I covered the insides and plugged the ports.


The crankshaft had been tanked in the hot bath, and the galleys thoroughly cleaned.
After pressure washing, it was carefully dried and put on a lathe to ensure balance.
The journals were slightly polished with 800 wet dry paper.


The new connecting rod bolts are in, pistons have been cleaned and polished.
There is still so much to do. The piston rings have to be gapped, installed.
Most of the build is ahead of me.
 
#111 · (Edited)
Wonderful life moments have directed my attention away from this project for a little while!
I am back on track, repairing and restoring as I go.
I need a visit to the Care Facility for the Easily Amused.

The pistons and connecting rods are one again; detailed, restored.
Their new JH specific stretch bolts pressed in, they are not reusable.
They have been assembled in the exact sequence they came apart. Assembly lube.
The C clips were tricky; they went shooting off to space more than once.


I tightened up the fuel lines, taped off the shiny serial plates, plugged holes and sealed the boot.
Glass bead and a careful hand cleaned up the fuel distributor from the GTI.
Sealing off every possible entry point had to be done thoroughly, any dust entry will end it.
Came out clean and sealed. I will not reuse these fuel lines, most are too corroded.

I decided to label each of the lines since both cars will be completely apart.
The Bentley isn't clear about where they go and I do not want to be guessing later.
The line marked 1 is coming from the fuel filter. The line marked 2 would likely be the return.


The fuel lines coming off the very top of the distributor go to the injectors indicated.


Gasoline resistant enamel primer seals off the iron fuel distributor from oxygen. No rust!
Since the fuel plunger is protected by the air sensor plate body, it stayed on, I taped around it.


And, of course, the Valve cover.
I figured since I am kinda strange and it is a Volkswagen, it could get a bit weird.


The lightening bolts and vortex swirls should add at least a couple of horsepower!
 
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