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8v Build~84 Rabbit Wolfsburg Drop top

181K views 200 replies 26 participants last post by  Rabbitissimo 
#1 · (Edited)


I am calling on my fellow VW enthusiasts for some much needed advice and direction. At 430,000 KMs my car is in need of a rebuild. After I bought it, (FOR 50 BUCKS!) it sat for 3 years before I started it, and started with a jump.

It ran rough at first, (I now know it would have been better to put a fuel filter in) and has been fairly reliable, aside from battery drain. I have already corrected some electrical, like the battery to starter, battery to body ground, (this wire had 2 ground points on it originally, I just did one to the frame here) and removed other bad wiring.
I found a blue and white wire in the fuse box completely melted back.
I am guessing it was for the 12v cigarette lighter which is not hooked up.
There are a few other wires melted together there, but just the casings.
I can address the electrical by replacing wire by wire.
The other issues I have had were the long warm up period. After starting, the engine would idle very low, with the red light in the dash indicating battery, and there was 8 to 10 volts available. It seemed to keep going, though, the first couple of minutes without touching the gas pedal.
After pushing the accelerator, often past 2500 RPM, the voltage would go up to 12v, the battery light would turn off, but would drop the idle down to 500-600 if you took your foot off the gas. The idle would slowly improve if it kept running. If you tried to drive cold, there was no power and it would stall.
After 5 minutes, it would be warmed up enough to drive. By the time it was warm, the voltage was mostly steady as it was driven. It would run reliably, although it had bouncy acceleration in mid pedal. It always starts hot, and could drive right away. Not so much after 40 minutes.
When i was shifting and other times, the bar gauge was all over the place, between 1 and 3.5!
Whew!! What does it all mean?
Recently, after driving for a year, I replaced the fuel filter. That day, I kept stalling at every stop sign, but I guessed it was from really low fuel. The fuel was DIRTY!
After, it ran pretty good, better than usual. More power. I put my last 20 in the tank, and noticed the fuel pump got very loud, then quiet, then loud, then quiet. I parked the car, and it died. I can hear the pump priming when I turn the key, as usual, but I turn all the way to start, and the starter motor is trying, but no start. My car has died.
So I am in rebuild mode.
Engine as it sits now, in the Convertible:


A better view of the head; It is stamped 26103373H. (With a 52 above it). JH European head.
Solid lifter, 40 intake 33 exhaust. 8mm valve stems. Made in Germany.

This is the other side of the engine bay, with battery and air flow sensor.

Here is a pic of a mystery plug in the back behind the air sensor box, it has 3 wires leading to a female 5 slot plug. No idea where this plugs in. It has been there like that since I bought the car in 2007.


I have a brand new fuel pump, fuel injectors, seals, fuel distributor rebuild kit, (to ensure proper operation of the fuel distributor plunger).

I bought a brand new Bosch distributor, just showed up! (Old one was worn out, at about 60%)

Here is another view, has hall sender with rectangular 3 plug. Date stamp on this part is 1984, and the bottom of the shaft says 2322. The only other option was to buy a distributor with a knock sensor, and I would have had to get a computer for it and wiring harness.

Brand new Bosch ignition coil, plugs, wires, oil and fuel filter. I will likely buy a new oil pump and did buy a new warm up regulator. What else is a wearing part likely to cause me grief?????? I want a reliable car.
I am also installing a big bore throttle body, and likely stage 1 or 3 intake manifold. Tri-y headers with cat, and aluminized exhaust, new throttle cable. As for the existing TB, this is what sits in the car.

There is a tutorial but it uses a different throttle body in the photos. http://www.vintagewatercooleds.com/tech/Techtips/ATStechnotes/throttlebody/throttlebody.htm
There is another link to a page with more info on what I generally hope to accomplish.
http://www.scirocco.org/tech/mk2/5000tb/5000tb.html#fox
The one I bought has a throttle position sensor apparently, (oops) with 3 wires out the bottom of the unit. It has been pointed out by some experts the Big Bore TB in the pics will only work with an automatic, the Convertible has a manual 5 speed 020.

Here's a photo if anyone know exactly what it is. VW and Audi stamped on it, and DVG Made in W Germany on it.
There is a side panel stamped
BO 236
037
061 K
Date stamp is 1989

Could anyone identify which vacuum ports are these two (#2 and #3) and I guess #1 is the mix screw. There is also another vacuum port on the other side, not visible in this photo, But can clearly be seen here.

The two visible vacuum ports here go right through to the inside wall of the TB, the side towards the intake manifold. Advice greatly appreciated.
Another view:

So I am in the market for a Fox? or Cabriolet? Intake manifold 88-89.

Okay, transmission of power;
I found a heavy duty Sachs clutch kit, it has 20% increased clamping force.
Pressure plate, clutch disc, throwout bearing, push rod, bushing and seal, clutch cable and all new bolts, and the release arm just in case. Elring mainshaft seal; Crankshaft seal is silicone. (I will get a new flywheel if needed).


My front windshield is cracked, and the "chrome trim" is junk. I will clean corrosion and fix it.
It is leaking slightly into the car when it rains. There is a small rusty patch by the driver wiper.
I am cheap, so I will find a used glass in great shape off some old junkpile.
GLUED-IN:
1983-1984 GTI
1984 Rabbit
1983-1984 Pickup
1989-1993 Cabriolet

RUBBER SEAL:
1975-1982 All models (Rabbit, Pickup, Jetta, Rabbit Convertible)
1980-1989 Rabbit Convertible/Cabriolet

Some time in mid-late 1989 was the changeover for the Cabriolet.
2-door and 4-door models are all the same within the groups (i.e. a 1990 Cabriolet windshield will work on a 1984 Rabbit LS 4-door).
The windshield frames are all the same, so conceivably, you can swap between the two. I've gone both ways on this (put a glue-in in a rubber-style seal windshield, and put a rubber-seal into a glue-style). Each conversion has it's caveats, but it can be done. What can NOT be done, is use a glue-in windshield with a rubber seal on it. You have to glue it in place.

While everything is apart and accessible, what else do I address?
Any advice for how to make it a success?
The car itself is in great shape, and the parts were all very cheap, but good German stuff. Clearout sales abound if you are willing to spend the time to find them. For me, the last 6 months a couple of hours a day looking through the back pages of the internet. Oh, the Bentley manual is on the way too.
I just traded work for a 1983 GTI, all the serial numbers of the cis system match, and it has a 1.8 block, with 026103373f head. This engine sits with 248,000 kms, (a lot less than the 430,000 kms on the convertible engine.) I am in the process of rebuilding this GTI engine, it will be going in a hot bath next couple of days. New crankshaft, rods, pistons will be ordered soon, after verifying the block and head are in good shape. Bearings, seals and gaskets will also be new. No problem.
I will likely bore to 81.5 if necessary, and want to rebuild the head. G grind would be awesome! Scientific Rabbit or Autotech? Who to go with? Both heads I have are German. Autotech has Zylinderkopf...Port, no polish! And I do have a spare head...
Special thanks to Ze Germans for making great castings.
 
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#47 · (Edited)
So I need a part number for the intake manifold from a 89 Cabriolet. Or, Fox? I may have located one, but I need to verify it is correct before it is sent.
Will the cold start injector be in the same spot on the cabriolet?
I will check the auxiliary air valve as well.
Here is where they sit in the Convertible. (Passenger side , left above engine)

Auxiliary air valve - testing:

1: To carry out this test, the engine coolant temperature must be below 30°C.
2: Detach the distributor HT lead.
3: Detach the auxiliary air valve electrical plug and ensure that the contacts in the plug connector are in good condition.
4: Connect up a voltmeter across the contacts of the plug connectors, start the engine and run at idle speed. The voltage reading must be a minimum of 11.6 V. If a voltmeter is not available, a test lamp will suffice to check the voltage supply.
5: With the auxiliary air valve electrical plug still detached, leave the engine running at idle speed and pinch the air inlet duct-to-auxiliary valve hose. The engine speed should drop.
6: When the engine is warmed up to normal operating temperature, reconnect the auxiliary valve plug then pinch the hose again. This time the engine speed should remain unaltered.
 
#49 · (Edited)
Lots of the info I post here is to help me with my project, having it all in one thread, instead of bouncing all over the internet trying to remember where I found critical info. Here is something I ran across months ago, but couldn't remember where I found it.

FUEL PUMP WIRING TIP:
Note: The following information is not documented in any of the A1 Bentley service manuals, and you may want to keep this service tip with your Bentley. The wiring diagrams do not show the following VW engineering change to the wiring of the CIS fuel pump relay.

Back in the late 1970's, VW was having a problem with the melting/burning of Pin A8 in Socket A on the back of the fuse panel with ceramic fuses due to the high current load created by the CIS fuel pump. Pin A8 provided +12VDC via a BLACK/GREEN wire to the fuel pump and to Control Pressure Regulator and to the Auxiliary Air Regulator.

What VW did to eliminate this design problem with the melting/burning of Pin A8 was to totally remove the internal circuit of L14 (socket L) to pin A8 (socket A) and install a remote fuel pump socket and extension harness with an auxiliary plug that plugged into socket L.

Voltage from terminal L13 (socket L) is now routed to terminal #2 of the remote fuel pump socket via a large RED wire of the extension wiring harness.

The voltage output to the CIS fuel pump is now provided by terminal #8 of the remote socket on a large RED/YELLOW wire to a "pigtail" connector with two RED/WHITE wires on one branch and a BLACK/GREEN wire (ie fuel pump wire) on the other branch of the pigtail connector.

So if your A1 has the remote fuel pump relay socket on the top of the fuse panel, and you want to test the relay by installing a jumper wire to make the fuel pump run, then do the following:

Only remove the fuel pump relay from the remote socket and keep the extension plug in the Socket L on front of the fuse panel.

Using a good light, find terminal #2 (large red wire on back of remote socket) and terminal #8 (large red/yellow wire on back of remote socket) on the remote socket.

Install jumper wire between terminals #2 and #8 of the remote socket. This will provide a direct +12VDC to the CIS fuel pump.

So to bypass the fuel pump relay, just pull the relay from the remote socket and install a jumper wire between terminals #2 and #8 on the remote socket on the top of the fuse panel.

"Thanks to VEExDUB for jogging my memory about this wiring change, and the fact it is not documented anywhere in the Bentley service procedure or wiring diagrams. Cheers, WWR."

For lots more amazing info:
http://reflectionsandshadows.com/a1-tech/
 
#50 ·
Or to figure out how to jumper the relay, you can look at the relay, which BTW, has it's input/output circuitry printed on it, and jumper the corresponding pins at the socket. To take even more heat oyut of the fuse panel, you can put remote fuses on the heater fan, rear defroster and I run the radiator fan directly from the battery with an in-line fuse. I have had those on my car for at least 15years, if not more.
 
#51 · (Edited)
Or to figure out how to jumper the relay, you can look at the relay, which BTW, has it's input/output circuitry printed on it, and jumper the corresponding pins at the socket. To take even more heat out of the fuse panel, you can put remote fuses on the heater fan, rear defroster and I run the radiator fan directly from the battery with an in-line fuse. I have had those on my car for at least 15years, if not more.
So, do you still have a thermostat switch for the radiator fan, or is it a constant cooling off scenario?
(Some people do that, you know...)
I was thinking of getting a second waterproof fusebox for the engine compartment, just from a wrecker in good shape. That way, I could put some things in I would like, such as stereo components or lighting and things like that.

I have been waiting and WAITING for the Bentley manual so I could get the proper order of the Cylinder head bolt removal, I do not want to damage (warp) that GTI head.
It may still be over 2 weeks for it to show up... Anyone have the sequence? I just want to get the block in the hot bath!
I searched Vortex yesterday, the only result that had the order was for a V20.
Google didn't help much.
I will be filming the removal of the GTI engine, and posting the Video, and/or pics.
Should be fun! It is in a hard to access place surrounded by aging vehicles, (one of which holds the original legendary bombproof Yamaha SHO V6). This engine is one of 15,000 ever made, and was a $10,000 OPTION on a ford Taurus.

Beautiful. Yes, the SHO is for sale, will be on Ebay in the next couple of weeks.
There will be a towing scenario, followed by a forklift operation and ripping apart of the GTI.
WARNING! This may get ugly....
 
#53 · (Edited)
Okay here comes the GTI from donor headquarters... Gonna be a rough ride, but no problem for a modified dodge to do the pulling ~ 700 horses 850 ft/lb or something crazy like that!

Here is a video of this crazy truck and the treasure from below...

Here is the other side

So I started the teardown, bolt by bolt. Here is the proper sequence to install your cylinder head bolts.
The cylinder head bolt removal sequence goes in reverse, to keep your head from warping.

Here is the fuel system taken out, it is in pretty rough shape, but is repairable! The fuel lines can RIP.
There are lots of banjo bolts and the box is a candidate for some modification.

Here is a weird thing I didn't know was at the back of the air sensor/fuel distributor. I wonder what it is? I may need a new one.
 
#54 · (Edited)
Okay, just to show everyone what a big difference the throttle body secondary valve size is, here are some comparison photos. The shiny one looks like the path of least resistance, does it not?
It looks like the primary valve is the same for both, so it only provides more air when your foot is heavy.

Then the boot side, notice how much less metal there is to interfere with a big inhale.
Not to mention it is way more aerodynamic.

Bolt on HP.
I am going right back in the morning to finish the job, strip the block bare, and get it into the hot bath.
Yeah.
 
#57 · (Edited)
The sun beat down on this black GTI for the teardown. Lots of wind. HOT.
Perfect day to investigate the inner beauty of a 1983 GTI.
248,000 Kilometers is 154,000 Miles, in case you were wondering.
After paying close attention and taking LOTS of pictures.
I unplugged the wiring harness.
I will be using it to recreate new wiring to some of the major components.
Lots of grounds on this engine go to a bolt that holds on a coolant flange on the right side of the cylinder head.
The timing cover had to be removed, and tension released.
The valve cover had to be unbolted to remove the timing cover.
The cylinder head opened up to reveal a glistening marvel of engineering.
Craftsmanship is a word that comes to mind.
Here is a shot after vacuum, coolant, fuel and electrical were removed.

Ahhhhh.....
Here is a better view of what is inside.


Now the head is about to come off.
I remove two spring clamps that hold the exhaust manifold to the downpipe.
I want to remove the intake and exhaust when the head is off, the bolts are pretty crusty.
I remove the head bolts in the opposite order of installing them. They were torqued on well.
I only get them to move slightly at first, in order.
Then a little bit more of a turn, in order for all 10.
Once more, in sequence for all bolts, and they come out.
The head is off!
Oh wait there is still one in there ... wait a sec... The head is off!
No warp whatsoever. Nice and flat. Beautiful.
Not only is the head off and safe, the bore is at 81, original to the day it was made.
I don't think anyone has ever been in here since day 1.


There is no wear, on any of them. The original crosshatch can be seen, and there are no ridges.
You can see how high the piston travels, but it has not carved away the walls at all. That is just oil.
It is in remarkably good shape.
Oh I know it looks ugly, but wait till you see it come out of the hot bath!
This is the block and transmission without the head.

Now that I have the head out I can be more careful about removing the manifolds.
As you can see here the exhaust is REALLY encrusted in decay.
On the plus side, those valves measure 40 and 33, respectively. Nice.
 
#58 ·
For the intake manifold, which was less severe, I gently tapped the allan key into the bolt with a hammer, to re-establish its geometry. Once I had it seating to the bottom, I could apply the pressure it required to unbolt it without stripping something.

The rusted out exhaust manifold bolts are a completely different story.
They are going to have to be dealt with.
 
#60 · (Edited)
The intake manifold came off without incident, even though one bolt was close to being stripped.
Imagine if I had tried to take off these bolts with the head still mounted.
Not in this state of decay. No way.

The exhaust manifold bolts are seriously rotten, and the metal is rusted right over the end.
This is surgery, the goal is to get the head, block and tranny out safe.
I will have to cut the ends off clean and vise-grip the bolts in order to remove them.
 
#61 ·
Seems you have two primary options for your over all project you need to choose.
1) get the 1.8 swapped, and keep it mostly stock except for things that are worn out and need replacing. Leave everything else stock. Get everything in good working order, then start making upgrade changes and learn what works and whats needed. This takes more time, but less money up front, and you get the point of knowing what your doing and less wasted time and money.

2) Build the engine they way you want it now then install, work out the issues in the engine and the rest of the car. This option requires you know now what your doing or someone working every step of the way with you that does know. And costs a lot of time and $ now. Some of these never finish, and are a great source for parts for you to buy.

Tips: It always takes longer to finish, you need more parts than expected and it costs way more than you think. Expect it and plan for it. Be realistic with your power goals, and expect that you'll always want more power than you have.

Cheers
ny_fam
 
#62 · (Edited)
Build the engine they way you want it now then install, work out the issues in the engine and the rest of the car. This option requires you know now what your doing or someone working every step of the way with you that does know.
Cheers
ny_fam
:beer:Cheers!
This is honestly the only car I have ever touched, mechanically speaking. I have never even changed oil on a car.
A few years ago I didn't even know you had to put oil in a car. Yeah. That's right.

A car roaring to life is a magic I stood in awe of. I often contemplate just how did the first one get invented? Who could have figured out how to harness an explosion? Amazing!

I have finally caught an interest in the dirty grimy clickety clack that powers a car. No longer will I drive a car, unsure as to exactly what is going on down there in the engine bay.
I have been reading. A lot!
Armed with a Bentley manual, there is no telling what I might do.
I have a pretty good understanding of the fuel system, and I am more than capable with electricity.
Volkswagen must mean addictive, because I need more.
I have driven many amazing cars, but this is the only one I ever wanted to work on.
Maybe it is because it is so accessible.
Thanks to a community interested enough to post a how to on transmission rebuilding, or how to get more out of a little car, I have been able to understand the big picture.
Thanks to the people who look at an old beat up car and say, "It's still good."
I have done my research, and as I pull the GTI apart, I know what almost everything does.
When the instructions arrive, I will be unstoppable.
It sure does help to have good people in my corner to show up with a special flywheel device and impact wrench when I am stumped about how to remove the crankshaft pulley.
Good people who just want to hear the tires squeal! HOOO HA!
 
#63 · (Edited)
So the engine mounts came out without incident, and the only real trouble was the driver side drive axle. There was one bolt underneath (8mm 12 point) that was barely accessible. I had to get the bit in as far as I could, then use a small wrench to remove it. The block, transmission and differential are free at last.


I wasn't sure if I would have to get a new flywheel or not, but the teeth on this one are in great shape.
I will only know as it comes apart, but I have a good feeling about this. If it is in good shape, I will balance it and use it again.


So far the only issues have been a stripped flywheel bolt, not a problem because I have brand new German bolts.
I even bought a few extra just in case.
Also, the bottom cover plate had one bolt still holding on due to it having been stripped before.
It is a circle, not a hexagon. Not a problem, an extraction bit will pull it out.
I have been able to use the tools I use to fix my woodworking machinery, it is all metric.

I just realized this is post #69 for me. Giggity!
 
#64 ·
Yoooooo....Do urself a favor and invest in some jack stands(since ur working on the dirt put plywood under them too while ur at it so they dont sink). Or atleast put cement blocks under the car or something to prevent the car from falling on ur face!!!! Ive seen those hydraulic jacks fail many of times. Had one fall on a friends head in front of me, dont worry he's ok he has a hard head :laugh::laugh:but he got extremely lucky...
 
#66 · (Edited)
A very crucial NOS part has arrived today, and what a relief! I was cheap with the shipping and it took a long time. I thought maybe it wasn't coming, it almost seemed like it was too good to be true.
But here it is!


The engine will be stripped on the outside, and the crankshaft is coming out. More photos very soon. Hot dip coming up!
 
#67 · (Edited)
So everything has to be removed from the block in order to clean it properly.
Here are the likely suspects.

A few more in the lineup...


I am not sure if a flywheel can be resurfaced, it has a bit of light rust on the inside.
The clutch had been replaced at some point, but the PO used a cheesy aftermarket jobby, not Sachs as Jah had intended. The pressure plate was in terrible shape, but newish.
The flywheel is German.

Now, with the oil pan removed, we can see the heart of the engine.

It is recommended to use a new oil pump when rebuilding an engine, but I think I will reuse this one.
The gears are mint, and there is a way to remove the pickup tube, and clean the filter.
I think that would be the only issue, and as this is mechanically driven, nothing is wrong with it.
 
#68 · (Edited)
So with the oil pump removed, the pistons and connecting rods must be marked per cylinder.
If they are to be re-used, they must go back from whence they came.
If the block must be bored, only the connecting rods could be re-used.


So the connecting rod nuts are removed, the rod caps carefully removed, bit by bit.
Place them in a plastic tub with a lid to keep them together, but separate them from each other.
It just helps to avoid damage to parts which may be re used.
The protruding bolt is covered in order to protect the journal on the crankshaft.
Wouldn't want to scratch that up!
Then simply push the piston & rod away from the crank and out. Same for the other 3.

The connecting rods were numbered, suggesting they have been balanced.
This is yet to be confirmed.

So with all of the connecting rods and pistons removed, the main caps must be removed.
They were numbered by the factory, no need to worry there.
The thrust washers were a little tricky, there were 4, VERY tight fit... Wiggle them out.


The crankshaft is free!
Its journals will be carefully measured, and as you can see by the drilled weights, it has already been balanced. Probably not the best way to balance a crankshaft.
Seems like it would cause some drag, maybe I'm wrong.


So now the tricky part, the last of the bearings are for the intermediate shaft.
Problem is, they are not two pieces that come apart, but one solid ring.
Cannot leave them in for the bath...
This tool will push them out. The pink dot indicates the bearing being removed.


So now the block is bare naked, and will have to be scrubbed clean before the bath.
Contaminants (oil, sand, grease) must be removed as much as possible for best results.
Here is a better look at the numbers embossed on the block.


The GTI block, stripped naked, is getting ready for a bath.
When it comes out, it will be ready for paint, then a fresh rebuild.

:beer: :laugh: :beer:
 
#69 · (Edited)
The exhaust manifold was holding on with a vengeance.
It did not want to let go, so one of the bolts had to be cut off.
Part of the manifold had to be cut out with it.
The head is now free, and is dead flat.
Here is a peek inside Ze German cylinder head.


The gunk is just carbon buildup, or grease, but the inner shape is visible.
This head will hopefully turn into a gleaming, polished beauty filled with titanium and silicon-bronze.
New valves.... Mmmmmmm....

Stay tuned; More to come!.....
 
#70 · (Edited)
So today I pulled apart the dash on the GTI.
The interior is burgundy, with red trim.
The trim pieces all came out safely, and are in great shape!
The wiring harness is formidable, and there are many differences between the GTI and the Rabbit Convertible.
Many of the plugs are different.
The VDO gauge main panel has far fewer resistors than the Convertible.

 
#71 · (Edited)
I just had to check the progress of the engine block, see if some of the grime has come off.
Wow! The results are truly phenomenal!
A bit of a light wire brush on the outside to remove any last trace of rust, and this block will be going back into the bath, where it will sit for just a little longer.
Then, a degreasing formula, then on to primer!

The oil pan was put in as well, it was very solid, but crusty.
It did not look at all salvageable, in very rough shape, but the bath revealed a very pristine workable component!
Baked-in oil contaminants were loosened to the point they could be lightly wiped away!


Parts list is being compiled, micrometer measurements will tell the tale.
Looks good so far....
 
#72 ·
For more parts leads, your 1984 Rabbit looks to be identical under the hood to my 1987 Scirocco. Same intake manifold and solid lifter head exactly. You could just order an alternator for a Scirocco with air conditioning -90A. Idle speed is controlled by that solenoid bolted to the strut tower and relay #1, which I have had to replace. Have you looked inside the fuel tank? Certainly the strainer inside must be replaced. My tank even had rust from the half full point up.

On your transmission can you wobble either drive flange? The driver side one is under heavy side loading. Bad motor mountings will do evil stuff to the axles and drive flanges. I have had to replace the output seals and drive flanges. Does either one have 100mm CV joints?

I too was wondering about checking the oil pump since mine has even more miles on it than your Rabbit. Adjusting the valves, after far too many miles, reduced oil burning.

1984 Audi 4000 1.8L is same setup as a 1989 Fox. The intake manifolds do look different than what have. Audi one is closer to a cylinder. Aux air regulator is on other end below throttle. CSV sticks out at odd angle , fine for a Fox, but on Rabbit or Scirocco is pointed at firewall. Here is a link about modifying the manifold to put the CSV at the far end: http://www.scirocco.org/tech/mk2/5000tb/5000tb.html

I just happen to have a manifold for a 1984 Audi 4000S 1.8L (049133223AA 1H WWO) sitting in my garage from a used head I bought. On the CSV end is a 29mm boss with a 17mm plugged hole in it. Interested in it? Have to ship from U.S.
 
#73 · (Edited)
Have you looked inside the fuel tank? Certainly the strainer inside must be replaced. My tank even had rust from the half full point up.
I have not looked inside yet, I have had weird fuel issues since I started the car.
Probably some water in there somewhere.
I did, however, purchase a new in tank pump with screen, and a new main pump.
Depending on some financial factors, I may purchase new fuel lines all the way back.
Depends on how extensive the engine parts become.
The tank will be pulled out and cleaned, then re installed.
Not sure how to do it other than pulling it out of the car.
Anyone think that is excessive? Have you seen my gray fuel?

On your transmission can you wobble either drive flange? The driver side one is under heavy side loading. Bad motor mountings will do evil stuff to the axles and drive flanges. I have had to replace the output seals and drive flanges. Does either one have 100mm CV joints?
Do you mean the differential that is mounted to the transmission, where the drive axles mount?
I could not believe the driver side axle was as short as it is. The GTI diff seems to be solid.
The diff in the convertible will be inspected when it comes out, I suspect the GTI is in better shape.
(Based on mileage).
I will be installing a Wavetrac Differential a couple of months later, when the funding is there.
Not sure if it will come with the output seals and drive flanges.

I just happen to have a manifold for a 1984 Audi 4000S 1.8L (049133223AA 1H WWO) sitting in my garage from a used head I bought. On the CSV end is a 29mm boss with a 17mm plugged hole in it. Interested in it? Have to ship from U.S.
After careful inspection of the intake manifold from the GTI, I have decided to port the runners and plenum myself. I kept trying to figure out how people would port the runners after they curve.
It turns out only about 5 or 6 inches need be ported on the runners, then it opens up inside, where it enters the plenum. I am going to try to do it, and if I screw it up then I will buy one.
I would love to see some pics of the one you have.
It is just like the Fox manifold from the link you posted? Is it shiny? Is it cracked? More info!
 
#75 · (Edited)
Where would a stock intake manifold crack?
Usually on the underside above the exhaust manifold, where heat and stress take their toll.
Quite often near a bolt, allowing unmetered air into the system, causing CIS problems.
There are a few people on this site this has happened to.
Header manufacturers discourage header wrap, it makes it too hot.
The heat of the exhaust manifold radiates in the engine bay, and the intake manifold ( made of aluminum) is directly above it.
I might take an old amplifier carcass to make a heatsink, in between.
They are made of aluminum, and have cooling sinks on them, and would still allow air movement.
I wonder if it would help or hinder...

Thanks for the pictures by the way.
I know I'm having fun!
I wish this info was here to see when I was looking around for how to build my car up.
I hope what I am doing will help the next VW freak!
 
#76 ·
A reason header wrap is not recommended, is due to corrosion. If the metal is not coated, and it gets wet/damp, it will corrode much faster. Thus a good hi-temp ceramic coating works well and will protect the metal from corrosion if it is wrapped.
 
#78 ·
I would also not do a header... a cast dual outlet exhaust manifold does wonders to spread the heat around. TT has a dual down pipe that works with a Mk3/Mk4 exhaust manifold. It is expensive and you need a short shift kit (comes with the pipe). It only comes in stainless, but allows a bolt up to a cat back system.
I actually use an old out of production 2" TT dual down pipe which is bolted up to an early US Mk1/diesel exhaust manifold that works quite well. I may have a SS one copied.
 
#80 · (Edited)
So I have been ripping out anything in good condition.
I will be selling the dash and trim, it is in very good shape.
(I know this is hard to believe, looking at this pic) but it is true.
Here is what a 1983 GTI looks like without the dash.


The pistons were cleaned up, and measured well.
I could install new piston rings in them and use them again, if I wanted to.
The block will be honed tomorrow, if the new hone arrives.
The one available is way too big for this little 4 cylinder.



I spent many hours today trying to remove the engine mount left on the transmission.

The bolt was seized, and would not let go.
All I wanted was to remove the mount safely so I could press out the motor mount.
Maybe even clean and paint it.
It took heat, strength, industrial strength penetrating liquid and the impact wrench to budge it.
And a lot of patience.
It finally came free. These bolts could not be used again.
A source for bolts: In Canada: http://www.oemhardware.ca/catalog.htm
In America: http://www.boltdepot.com/socket-products.aspx

This is one dirty FK.

This too shall pass...
 
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