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DIY: Ultimate SAI/N249/PCV/EVAP Delete

1M views 855 replies 292 participants last post by  gillygils 
#1 · (Edited)
I spent a lot of time on this, I hope it will be helpful. This is the guide I put together to be used in conjunction with a kit I put together. I did the install on both a AWP and AWD motor. There are slight variations in the vac lines, but the instructions indicate which motor is in the picture. If I am missing anything, please let me know.

Engine codes this write up has worked on (if you have a engine not listed and this has worked for you, let me know and I will add it to the list):

AWP
AWD
AUQ
AWW
AWV
AWM


I will make you a kit if you are interested. PM me for details.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...h-everything-you-need&p=64471922#post64471922

For those who want to piece the kit together, here is what I used:

- Integrated Engineering Block Plate
- 4 10w 330OHM Resistors
- 8 feet of 3/4" Hose
- 4 feet of 1/2" Hose
- 4 feet of 5/32" vac line
- 2 3/4" 90 degree PCV Elbows
- 1 3/4" PCV "T"
- 12 Medium Hose Clamps
- 6 Small Hose Clamps
- 1 Pack of Assorted Small Vacuum Caps
- 1 Pack of Large Assorted Vacuum Caps
- 1 Homebrew Catch Can
- G12 Coolant


Optional (While your in there) Parts:

- Coolant neck: Automatic Transmissions: 06A 121 133 AH Manual Transmissions: 06A 121 132 AP
- Newsouth Performance Power Gasket, or stock intake manifold gasket
*Now is also a REALLY good time to install a oil pressure sender using the port on top of the filter housing to use an aftermarket gauge.


Tools Needed:

- Gloves
- Flathead Screwdriver
- Set of allen wrenches, or allen bits for your socket wrench (5mm, 5.5mm, 8mm, some other may be needed)
- Socket Set (8mm, 10mm, some others may be needed)
- Cutters
- Soldering Iron
- Solder
- Electrical Tape
- Zip Ties
- Jack and a Jack Stand (to be safe)

**Disclaimer** - I am not responsible for any damage done to the vehicle or yourself by performing this modification. I am simply collecting all the items needed and providing them to you as a convenience. Most states require the emissions systems on your vehicle and removing them could cause your car to violate your state's emissions laws. That being said:

GOOD LUCK!!














































































































Finished product:

 
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#116 ·
Just to be sure...I can leave the evap, n249, & n112 plugged and tucked away?

Also, can anyone tell me what to do with this on my TT (awp)? It is in the location of the blue balls on the normal AWP. It has 3 wire so resistoring doesn't seem the option. The lines go to the same location you remove and cap. Right now I plan on leaving it in placed connected.

Thanks.



 
#120 ·
^^^ get rid of all that ish and run a hose to the floor from the crankcase and a filter off the valvecover and be done with it
 
#129 ·
well... search would tell u this, but ill make it a touch easyer for you....... yes u need resistors even if u had the deletes done in your software and removed the physical parts. with out resistors your car will not adapt the fuel trims and such properly. all that happens with out the resistors is ull have a car that runs ok and dosnt get a cell the way your setup now. if you use the search button or read this whole thread u should find plenty of info showing why its important to have both a software delete and resistors to get things running properly.
 
#132 ·
Question here there is a picture of the evap lines being capped off after removal behind coolant ball.... Tell me if I'm wrong but wont that cause vapor lock since the vapors have no whre to go but through the gas lines or shooting your gas cap off at the pump.Please correct me if I' wrong on that one so I can correct it or not.
 
#145 ·
resistor watt question

why are you using a 10w resistor thats big why cant you use a 1w with the same ohm? also i have a AWP motor and was wondering with this DIY would everything still run correctly? i mean without any problems because i was afraid to do it and if not run correctly and then have to have it towed to a shop to have it tuned and to delete the code from my ECU
 
#149 ·
Assuming your alternator isn't working, and its only getting 12V...

I = E / R

I = 12 / 330ohm

I = 0.03636

So there will be .03Amps going through the Resistor, Keeping that in mind.

P = E x I

P = 12 X 0.03636

P = 0.43632 watts

If you alt is working correctly, and you're actually getting 14.7volts you'd get closer to .53watts being passed through the resistor.

So no matter how you slice it, a 1/2 watt will work without an issue. :wave:
 
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