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Switching to Bike Carbs. Heres a write up!

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#1 ·
Switching to Bike Carbs. Heres a write up!... IT IS COMPLETE!

Hello everyone!
This is going to be my first write up. Please feel free to ask questions and make suggestions! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif By the end of this build i hope to have step by step instructions so that all you good folks out there can set up some bike carbs too!

I recently traded my 77 rabbit for an 82 Caddy with a 2.0 swap. The CIS fuel system was never fully installed, and is currenty hooked up just so that it gets me from A to B. I have been researching on what route i want to go with the fuel system and have decided to go with some bike carbs! My reason for this choice is my extreamly limited budget (Currently going to tech school, typical poor student
), the ease of the install, and the effeciancy of bike carbs over Weber carbs.
My plan is to gather and fabricate all of the needed parts and then spend my Winter break installing and tuning the carbs. I will be trying to contact "Bogg Brothers" to figure out what jet sizes i need and order a few smalll parts.
Parts List Needed (please contribute if im missing parts):
Bike Carbs
Correct Jets
Fuel Pressure Regulator
Manifold
Fuel Hose
Tonight is day one of my gathering. I purchased a set of Yamaha YZFR1 Carbs off ebay. I cant wait for them to arrive so i can get them all cleaned up! Ill begin posting pics ASAP.
Here is an artical and a couple vids to get you PUMPED!
http://www.totalvauxhall.co.uk...7.pdf
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tb7ILh6ZxxA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v...lated


Modified by Miami Blue at 10:35 PM 1-3-2010
 
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#93 ·
Re: (jeosh)

Going to be running an Aeromotive bypass regulator on mine. Far from cheap, but I know my CIS pump was replaced just before the 1.7L died, the return line and everything is still there, etc. Great info throughout this thread. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 
#94 ·
Re: (YJSAABMAN)

Throttle is very responsive due to the throttle plates being much larger combined than the origional throttle plates combined. I made sure to pay attention to my power band today, it actually feels very even from take off to the top end.
The reason i am slower is that i haven done any tuning past what i can do by listening to the engine. I still need to hook up my air fuel meter and jet the carbs, im sure its running a little lean right now.
The Aeromotive Regulator is the exact one i want!
 
#95 ·
Re: (Miami Blue)

Great job and great wright up
Get a wideband in there trust me it makes tuning so much easier and safer for your motor...and wallet

Is that a widebody Gen II RX-7? pic's?
 
#96 ·
Re: (impulse byer)

Wideband will certainly come when i can afford it, they may have one at school that i can use now that i think about it.
And yes good eye man! My room mate has building that car FOREVER! Widebody FC, he is putting a turbo ls3 in it. I want him to finish it so i can get a ride! Some day i may need to build one to go along with my rabbit



Modified by Miami Blue at 4:44 AM 1-7-2010
 
#97 ·
Re: (Miami Blue)

Your still running the stock fuel pump? I didnt think it would work, to much pressure. Im running the Carter 4070 without the accumulator.
Thats awesome you got it going in a weekend! Mine took forever (still is!) because it started with the junk 1.7L in the car and changed more then I should have! I hope to have the new distributor from TT by the end of the month.
Do the carbs hit the rad without the fan on it? I want to run a slim fan on the front side to clean up the bay. I plan to route the fuel lines from the pass side and toss the battery in the trunk at some point too, just want it to run first!!
 
#99 ·
Re: (FROZEN337)

Right now im using the CIS pump, all i did was unplug the fuel hose to the CIS dizzy and plug the fpr in. After looking more in to it i have decided to get the carter fuel pump like FROZEN, it is cheaper and safer than using the CIS pump and bypass regulator.
The carbs and filters both dont hit the rad or fan shroud. There is about a centimeter of clearance between the filters and shroud. I also plan on running a slim fan on the front though to clear up space. (That will come after i get new coilovers)
 
#100 ·
Re: (Miami Blue)

I bought my carter from summit, along with the gauge, not sure what I paid for them. You can mount the gauge on the FPR to clean thing up a bit too.
 
#102 ·
Re: (86Franklin)

I have thought of going to the local auto parts store to get a fuel pump but i dont know how much i can trust one of those things. I'd rather just stick to something that people have used and works for em.
If other people have used them and say they work i suppose you should give it a try!
 
#103 ·
Re: (Miami Blue)

Thats what i use CarQuest brand low pressure pump. I bought 2 just in case but have never needed the second one yet. 3 years i believe i've been running it now.
I love the Ls series of motors my next project will involve one for sure...in a 3 gen RX-7 of some sort
 
#105 ·
Re: (Miami Blue)

I went through 2 cheaper pumps before the carter, 1 off ebay, rotary vain like the carter, it was junk. The second was the Mr. Gasket 4-7 psi. After fueling issues with both, I bought the carter. Works awesome!
 
#108 ·
Re: (VicDubber)

Carbs: $130 (You can find them cheaper)
Pump: $70
FPR: $40
Manifold: $20 and an In-and-Out Burger
Silicone couplers: $10
Fuel Hose: $15
Fuel Gauge: $25
NPT Fittings: $15
Air Filters: $70
Air Filter Oil: $10
Vacuum Hose: $10
Fuel Filter: $5
Pipe Clamps: $15
Prices arent exact, but close. Total comes out to around $435. Not bad considering its a whole fuel system. Starts right up every time! http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 
#111 ·
Re: (Miami Blue)

Yeah, I'm not suprised FROZEN had issues with a Mr. Gasket pump, they're pretty crappy. Heard of a lot of people having problems with them on various vehicles.
I'm still planning on giving the CIS pump and bypass regulator a shot. Really just don't want to have to re-do the fuel lines at this point!
 
#112 ·
Re: (YJSAABMAN)

Mr. Gasket pump was a try at keeping things under $300!! FAIL!
Anyone looking for carbs, I have 2 sets (not selling the other!) both off ebay for under $50 each shipped. When you do get the carbs, or ask before you buy, they came with adjustable needles, will make tuning easy, one set I bought did not have the stock needles in them. I have not priced new/adjustable set yet either.
You dont have to re-do your fuel lines at all to make it work, I'm running off the "end" of the hard line on the drivers side. I am going to re-do it after its running right and the bay is finished, just not that big a deal right now.
 
#113 ·
Re: (FROZEN337)

for the fuel line i cut the soft line (for the return line) off the barb fitting where it bolts to the hard line. then put the barb fitting on the feed line and ran soft to my carbs. now i just need to cap the return line so it doesnt leak fumes. after i get that all i need is the aluminum water neck i bought to arrive so i can have it cut and welded differently to clear my carbs. also for my uncle to come and make me a throttle cable.
 
#116 ·
Re: (Miami Blue)

Throttle cable time! To be able to make a proper throttle cable you need only two things: A stock cable, and some cable stoppers. You need the specific kind i posted a picture of on here. I suggest buying a throttle cable to a diesel rabbit since they are long enough to easily reach the front of the engine.

First thing youll have to do is cut the cable stop off the throttle or diesel pump (depending on what cable you get) side of the cable. Cut it as close as you can.
Then pull the cable out of the guide so you can trim the guide. Put the guide in the firewall and cut it so that it fits in to where the throttle cable holder is on the carbs.
Once the cutting is complete you can insert the cable back in to the guide on the pedal side of the firewall. Put the hook on the cable in to the busing on the pedal lever.
Now wrap the cable around the throttle lever on the carbs and then put one of the cable stops on there. The cable stop may be a little big for the spot on the throttle lever, all you have to do is file the stop down a little evenly on all sides. Once the cable stop is where you want it, leave it attached to the cable and then take it off the carbs. Tighten the screw down as much as you can and then cut the screw flush with the brass part of the stop. The reason for this is that the screw will hit the carbs when the throttle is part of the way open.
Finally you can put the cable back on to the carbs! There ya go!
Highly technical and semi pointless conseptual drawing:



Modified by Miami Blue at 6:27 PM 1-19-2010
 
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