sorry, forgot about your question http://www.techtonicstuning.co...2.htm Techtonics has a pretty good little write-up. I've done it 3 times, it's a breeze
i dont know what to do? i have a 86 jetta coupe and i want to put a new intake on it from a digi 2 91 mk2 gti. its a itg cone filter. would it work? im scared to try and touch my stock intake for the 8v. theres all sorts of tubes and metal things going to the airbox. if you can help that be awsome.
Injector Cups Explained
CIS injector cups are bigger than CIS-E and Digi cups
CIS-E and DIGI injector cups are the same size (CIS-E injectors will fit into digi cups and likewise for the reverse)
CIS and CIS-E injectors are the same size.
In conclusion
A CIS head can run CIS-E injection
A CIS-E head can run Digi injection
A Digi head can run CIS-E injection
you CAN run without the airshrouds with no noticable change in performance (from what I've experienced)
Tranny drain plugs will screw into the head in place of injector cups on CIS heads when running carbs (or maybe it was cis-e digi...i'll find out for sure and edit)
IM me for ABA swap info, carb info, or anything really
You CAN run a solid cam in a hydraulic head BUT the head will have to be clearenced aroung the lifters to allow room for those big ass lobes
Also you can make a solid lifter head run hydraulic cam followers (they ain't lifters people cuz they push down).
For running hyrdo followers in a SL head place shims under the lifter to achive the correct heigth
Benefits to running a solid cam in a hydro head are minimum of .012" lift and 13° of rotation
Name---------------Part #----------------Duration----Lift-----Lobe-------In. open
------------------------------------------------@.50---------------center------@ .050"
------------------------------------------------In/Ex
Solid
Std U.S. Solid---049 109 101C ----------222°-----.405"-----110°------ 1.3° BTDC 1.5-1.6L std. U.S. spec
Hydraulic
Std A2 Hyd-"A"---026 109 101-----------209°-----.393"-----110°----- -5.6° BTDC '85-87' GX,HT Engines
Std A2 Hyd-"G"---026 109 101 G--------214°-----.400"-----110°----- -2.8° BTDC '85-92' RD,PF,RV Engines
Std A3 2.0L-8v---048 109 101D---------212°-----.400"-----113.5°--- -7.7° BTDC '93-'98
If your replacing any vacuum hose I recommend ordering it from McMaster-Carr. They are an industrial supply company that I order from for work all the time. Out of curiosity I looked for silicone vacuum hose on their website and was surprised to find a larger selection than anywhere else I've seen and for prices at least $0.10 per foot less. I bought the hose with Durometer rating of 70 and found it to be slightly stiffer than the stuff you can get at Autozone (or on the 1internets). Me likey. http://www.mcmaster.com http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Somebody should Post a How to on the Ever so popular question " How do i remove my metal timing belt cover ". I've searched many times and never really got a clear answer on it.
1) Remove nuts on valve cover with 10mm socket
2) Remove socket head bolt with rubber grommet in center of metal upper timing belt cover with 8mm hex key.
3) Lift timing belt cover vertically.
4) Unhook/disconnect vacuum lines and throttle cable from valve cover and lift valve cover vertically.
5) Replace cork valve cover gasket with a rubber one ($10, usual places). http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
6) Leave upper timing belt cover off because your car is sexier with it off. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
7) Reposition valve cover and re-torque nuts to ~7 in-lbs.
8) Connect vacuum lines to valve cover and hook throttle cable back into its little home
If you just want the cover off skip steps 4,5 and 8.
BTW I'm going by memory on the sizes of the hex key and the socket, correct me if I am wrong.
If you find your windshield washer jets are clogged and are afraid to use a needle to stab the crap out of them, try this:
Get a vacuum tester device (I use Mighty Vac) and attach the end to the tubes that let the water go to the jets. Pump it! It should suck all the junk right from the jets, but make sure it doesn't go into the vacuum device. There ya go, a simple problem solve-Ed.
That's the motor I just finished. Needs to be rejetted but it's running
If you're goin carbs yo need to AT LEAST get Autotech eurosport cams and hd springs. ($500) Not needed but but the gains are huge and the carbs won't perform as well on the stock cams
You'll need aftermarket fans mounted to the front of the radiator ($65 shipped for 2 12" fans that move ALOT of air. Bypass your main pump (frame mounted) and use the tranfer pump only
Holley 12-803BP It's a new FPR with a return line. It says it starts at 4.5psi but i turned it down to 3 with no problems (Dellorto's don't like anuthing higher than 3.5psi)
you're gonna need a fuel guage, $20
The distributor is off of a non-turbo mid 80's Saab 900. Use the Saab rotor but the vw 16v cap (the saab rotor autozone has in stock for like $5)
If your kit doesn't come with a water outlet (some do) you'll have to have the stock one cut and rewelded (it has mag in it so good luck fingind someone to weld it...mag rod is very expensive)
The wiring is pretty straight forward, I removed everything having to do with the ecu and left the rest. Even the MFA still works.
I also use the stock ICM allthough the GM 4-pin would be the next in line to use.
Is the MKI/MKII 8V motor interference?
I was looking in my Bentley last night, Section 3, page 19 (?), and there was a note on the turning the cam by hand while doing a T-belt replacement, and the possibility of the valves hitting hitting the piston...but it was not clear on it being for a 16v or an 8v. I read this thread, but didnt find the answer (unless i passed right over it).
TIA
Rodrigo
VW_Pilot apparently still sells the CSW chip. This chip works well for the price, however doesn't fix alot of the problems, but for the money, drivability is increased. Here is the link to his post: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=284195
Re: 8V FAQ pvc tube inplace of intake (16vnotchback)
from the factory, only the 16v motors are interference. But here's a tip, rotate your motor 90 degrees from TDC (top dead center) and all your pistons will be level about 2" from your valves. as 2 go down, 2 go up, that way they all meet halfway through the stoke. one of them on combustion, one on intake, one on exhaust and one on compression
this is a link to a word document, it could be copied and pasted here in case it ever goes down. http://www.vanagonauts.com/fil...x.rtf
Its details some digi2 troubleshooting and fixes , the digi2 system was also used in vanagons. Not my information, i just wanted to share what i found.
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