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8V Forum FAQ

215K views 125 replies 77 participants last post by  The_Hamster 
#1 ·
8V FAQ

Have at it folks. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Please only post answers in this thread.
8v Engine FAQ
8v Engine Listing


Modified by The_Hamster at 5:06 PM 8-27-2008
 
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#28 ·
Re: BMW Airflow Meter Swap How To: (rocco8v)

This Post is to update all Digi II owners on what chips are still availible for our injection systems. Alot of speculation is flying around as to what is actually still out there. I recently made some phone calls, and talked to some reps about what each company can do for us. Here is a difinitive list as of the date on this post...
Techtonics Tuning carries a DIGI II chip. Power increase is quoted at 4 to 5 hp, however TT claims there chip will work in only 1/3 of the ECU's, Bosch being the brand of choice. The price of the chip... $110 plus shipping. The chip also comes with a Knock Sensor spacer, available by itself from TT.
For those of you who can read German... here you go. This link is to a german tuning site, that claims to carry the DIGI II chip as well. The gains look pretty substantial from the numbers I can read, however, it is unknown at this time if the chip will actually work in our cars or not. Here is the link: http://www.powertec.at/datenbank/vw.html
VW_Pilot apparently still sells the CSW chip. This chip works well for the price, however doesn't fix alot of the problems, but for the money, drivability is increased. Here is the link to his post: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=284195
SNS Tuning does infact carry 2 chips for the Digi II injection. One is designed for a cam, and the other without. Not much is known what the chip does as a whole, however, each chip only runs you $39!!!! It may be a cheaper alternative to some of the other chips on the market. Here is the link to their site: http://www.snstuning.com/
Last but not least, AMS. Anyone you have talked to that owns this chip, will tell you. It IS the difinitive chip for DIGI II. This chip not only adds more fuel, but aggressive ignition maps as well. It completely ignores the coolant temp sensor once warmed up, and drivability and power are better than ever. Your Rev limiter is raised to 7000 as well. AMS however doesn't list this chip on their site, but it is STILL AVAILIBLE!!!!! Call AMS directly at (310)-763-8000. Talk to the rep and make sure you have your ECU type and number handy. This chip will set you back... $200 to $250.
There you have it. If you have anymore information on Digi II chips, please feel free to shoot me an IM, and I will edit my post.
 
#29 ·
Re: BMW Airflow Meter Swap How To: (rocco8v)

Quote, originally posted by rocco8v »
Just another thing... MK3 swaybars are an upgrade, and will fit.
just a cheap alternative to some aftermarket sawybars, for the daily driver, weekend canyon carver.

To save topics overflooding swaybar upgrades are better then stressbars as in more noticeable differnce not saying stressbars are crap so dont buy them just upgrade swaysbars before stressbar swaybar info as rocco8v listed^^
Sways=handle,driveabilty
stressbars=flexiabilty and stabilty


Modified by V_dubber03 at 1:17 AM 8-14-2004
 
#34 ·
Re: BMW Airflow Meter Swap How To: (Digiracer)

I've pretty done all 2.0 ABA 8v engine and 1.8 head mods incl. the AMS chip. What kind of improvement can I expect with the BMW AMF and your other recommendations? I'm thinking about not upgrading fuel injectors. Will I still see an improvement?
Thanks
 
#35 ·
Re: BMW Airflow Meter Swap How To: (emvee2003)

think bout using a wideband first.
more fuel pressure is all you need to get a nice 13:1 a/f to redline. FPR's are cheap and easy to squash.
widebands are common all over the town nowadays. borrow one.
btw, you guys still haven't tried underclocking the ECU by 10% of the crystal on the motherboard?
 
#38 ·
Re: BMW Airflow Meter Swap How To: (emvee2003)

A "wideband" is a term used for a Wideband O2 sensor. What this does, is allows you to see your air/fuel ratio in close detail, to accuratly tune your Fuel Injection system. Most used on turbo'd cars, but is used by other tuners on N/A cars.
 
#41 ·
A/C Removal on power steering equipped cars!!!

Wanted to give the how to once and for all to clear up all confusion...
You need just two parts...
Non a/c alternator pulley
3/8" x 41 3/8" belt (can get from carquest for 10$)
Start by disconneting your battery
Remove alternator (13mm tensioner on top and allen head bolt on bottom)
Now loosen your P/S pump and remove the belt.
Loosen the tension on your a/c compressor and remove the a/c belt.
Remove a/c compressor from car (tensioner nut on top and two allen head bolts on bottom at pivot point)
Get that heavy and more then likely broke a/c compressor out of there.
Now remove the pulley from your alternator and replace with the non a/c pulley.
Reinstall the alternator.
Belt routing..
Alternator belt goes around the inner crank pulley, inner water pump pulley and alternator pulley, once belt is installed check tension at the alternator and adjust as necessary.
Reinstall the power steering pump belt and tighten that bad boy up.
You are done, you now have no a/c and about 20lbs less on the front end of the car. You should notice that your steering got a little bit lighter and the throttle response quickened a tad.
Enjoy..
Don't listen to any other posts claiming that you need brackets, crank pulleys, alternator mounts etc...
I did this last night and it worked flawlessly. best benefit I can see so far is that the oil filter is unobstructed. I can get my whole arm down there to grab the oil filter. Should make oil changes ten times easier.
 
#42 ·
Re: A/C Removal on power steering equipped cars!!! (H2091)

i am fairly new to the dub scene, so please help out. i am trying to buy a catalytic conv. for my 91 gti 8v, but all the choices are broken up into 1.8L "PL" Engine or 1.8L 4 Cylinder, "PF" Engine , so my question is how do i figure out which i have. thanks for the help. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 
#45 ·
Time your RIDE

Okay I just wrote all this for a post on how to time an 8v engine. After I got done I noticed that the dudes engine was a 16V so after cursing I figured I would copy it in here for reference

This is pretty much word for word out of the bently on how to properly ignition time a 8V digifant engine as well as checking for timing advance.

Unscrew the plug on the top of the transmission bell housing. I think its a 17mm allen. I used an easy out for mine cause i'm a ******* but one way or another it has to come out. Next, let the car run untill it gets up to normal operating temp or after the radiator fan cycles once or twice. Now, disconnect the coolant temp sensor (blue one right in front of the engine head on a coolant water neck). Next, rev the engine 3 times past 3000 rpm to clear the computer. Now connect your timing light probe wire to the coil wire going into the distributor. Rev the engine steady at about 2300 rpm's. Now aim the timing light into the hole and you should be able to see a steady spot on the flywheel. If you move the distributor by hand you can see how is adjusts the positions of the flywheel at which the light hits it. Its best to have 2 people so one person can try to keep the idle at 2300 while you move around the dizzy. You need to look for the small mark (its an indentation on the flywheel) to the left of the TDC mark which looks like a piece of the flywheel kinda sticking out like a tab. Align the center of the bell housing hole with the small timing mark by moving the dizzy slowly while trying to maintain 2300 rpms. Once you get it tighten down the dizzy. Re-connect the coolant sensor and rev the engine a couple times. Now at this point you should be good to go but since your already there you might as well check the timing advance. With the coolant sensor connected, point the timing light back in the hole. If you rev the engine from idle to say 3000 rpms you should see the fly wheel change positions and then as the car goes back to idle the flywheel returns back to its idle position that it started from.
Its def a PITA but a poorly timed engine well.....runs poor.
Good Luck
 
#46 ·
Re: 8V FAQ (wildvw4)

i've converted a cis head to digi by getting the digi screw-in injector shrouds ( like $5 a peice ) and replacing the brass cis injector shrouds with the digi ones. I did two heads already both heads only had one fuel rail mounting hole line up, so either drill and tap for the other one or just use one ( i would drilland tap for durability ) I would prolly advise in getting new injector o-rings at the same time
 
#49 ·
Re: 8V FAQ (Germnpwr)

Quote, originally posted by Germnpwr »
i've converted a cis head to digi by getting the digi screw-in injector shrouds ( like $5 a peice ) and replacing the brass cis injector shrouds with the digi ones. I did two heads already both heads only had one fuel rail mounting hole line up, so either drill and tap for the other one or just use one ( i would drilland tap for durability ) I would prolly advise in getting new injector o-rings at the same time

VW Fox digifant (90-93) injector inserts will fit into any cis/cis-e head, including big valve solid lifters (and 16V intakes) for efi coversions. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 
#50 ·
Re: 8V FAQ (Coolwhite Fox)

i just spoke with AMS advanced motorsport solutions and they still offer digi chip/ecu upgrades , rev limit is increased to 7000rpms and on the dyno they gained 11hp in the mid range and 8 hp peak. the dyno chart shows 93hp/105 ft/lbs tq stock and 102hp and 108ft/lbs tq with AMS chip/ecu upgrade. you need to send your ecu to them. application are
1987 1/2 to 1992 49state golf/jetta
1987 1/2 to 1990 california golf/jetta
1990-1992 cabrio
their contact info is.
AMS
1-310-763-8000
http://www.amspower.com
 
#51 ·
Re: BMW Airflow Meter Swap How To: (Digiracer)

I have all these parts for the intake ready and the BMW MAF but when I tried to hook it up it didn't work.

By that I mean the car just didin't start after installing the new intake.
Even after when I tried to put on my old air box the car won't start.


And what do I do with all the vaccum hoses from the old air box?
 
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