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    1. 03-29-2011 12:51 AM #26
      I just replaced a leaking CTS housing and bad thermostat this weekend. I flushed my entire coolant system out and put fresh fluids in there. Car runs noticeably smoother.

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    3. Semi-n00b Shire's Avatar
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      03-29-2011 12:03 PM #27
      Quote Originally Posted by Shire View Post
      I just did this. I found it easier to not remove the rubber hose from the

      I replaced the VW part #: 050 121 113c with a motorad 4419 (192 deg). seems to be settling on 190. perfect.
      i forgot to say that the old themo was labeld as 180 deg

    4. Member SB_GLI's Avatar
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      03-29-2011 11:05 PM #28
      A passat is really easy to do, there's hardly anything in the way and you don't even need a flex socket. A socket and extension will do. 10 minute job. My jetta looks a lot thougher to get to though and might be easier to just pull out the alternator to avoid cut knuckles and frustration.

    5. 04-07-2011 06:23 PM #29
      I just replaced mine today and the temp sensor...

      Kinda frustrating since the old thermostat was basically brand new, OEM and only has 5300km. It's only been used since June last year when I finished building my engine




    6. Member SconnieGTI's Avatar
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      01-11-2013 04:18 PM #30
      Quote Originally Posted by my own style tt View Post
      FWIW this DIY was perfect for my Mark 4 GTI. I have gorilla hands and there was no need to remove the alt or the TB.

      Thanks a ton!

    7. 04-04-2013 01:50 PM #31
      Just a Bump for this thread. I am by no means a mechanic, but I just replaced my T-stat today using this thread. Super easy with the pictures provided above in the link. I lucked out with the dip stick, I just turned it left and right while pulling and it came up very clean.

    8. Member BassNotes's Avatar
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      04-04-2013 02:38 PM #32
      Quote Originally Posted by SconnieGTI View Post
      FWIW this DIY was perfect for my Mark 4 GTI. I have gorilla hands and there was no need to remove the alt or the TB.

      Thanks a ton!
      Same here. My thermostat housing blew out a couple weeks ago and the AudiWorld DIY made replacing it and the thermostat and o-ring an easier process than I expected it would be.
      Bob Lee
      2002 GTI 1.8t 297,000+ miles
      VCDS 18.2 with KEY-USB interface

    9. Member explicitrock's Avatar
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      09-29-2013 01:41 AM #33
      Quote Originally Posted by my own style tt View Post
      Does anyone have the pictures? these aren't loading for me. and I need this asap!

    10. Member troici'sgti's Avatar
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      09-29-2013 07:11 PM #34
      Just get a 1/4 drive extension and squeeze it in with out pulling the alternator and the place the socket on the thermostat bolt. Push the extension in and loose it. That's how I did it with out pulling the alternator off. Also when installing use your fingers to tighten and then tighten with a extension and a socket. A universal might also help.

    11. Member zeusenergy's Avatar
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      09-30-2013 01:50 PM #35
      This job only looks threatening. Back a few years ago I did mine on the 1.8T (New Beetle also- FAR less room to play guys) and everyone back then was saying to remove alternator also. I used a 1/4" drive universal joint, 6" extension, and normal 10mm socket for the 1/4" drive stuff. It was easy as sin, although challenging to work your fingers in there and dropping the bolt too. For anyone's T-stat job, on this engine, I suggest buying the housing new, the Oring, plus the dipstick tube. That stuff just breaks anyway and the replacements are cheap as hell. Don't mess around with the old parts hoping to save $20, because you'll be sorry.

      WHILE YOU HAVE THE HOUSING OFF FEEL INSIDE THE BLOCK WHERE THE WATER PUMP IMPELLER IS. This is your key to know if the water pump is sh1t and needs to be replaced.

    12. n00b
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      10-10-2013 01:51 PM #36
      Quote Originally Posted by explicitrock View Post
      Does anyone have the pictures? these aren't loading for me. and I need this asap!
      This video looks helpful: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dxas_zE7HEI

      About to tackle mine this weekend!

    13. Member groggory's Avatar
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      10-10-2013 04:14 PM #37
      Added to FAQ
      My Build
      My FAQ / DIY Thread -- Look here for 90% of the questions you have

      Welcome to the world of racing! Budgets are ALWAYS exceeded, deadlines are never met, end-goals never reached, and wives always unhappy... it's all worth it though!

    14. Member BassNotes's Avatar
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      10-11-2013 12:58 AM #38
      Quote Originally Posted by zeusenergy View Post
      This job only looks threatening. Back a few years ago I did mine on the 1.8T (New Beetle also- FAR less room to play guys) and everyone back then was saying to remove alternator also. I used a 1/4" drive universal joint, 6" extension, and normal 10mm socket for the 1/4" drive stuff. It was easy as sin, although challenging to work your fingers in there and dropping the bolt too. For anyone's T-stat job, on this engine, I suggest buying the housing new, the Oring, plus the dipstick tube. That stuff just breaks anyway and the replacements are cheap as hell. Don't mess around with the old parts hoping to save $20, because you'll be sorry.

      WHILE YOU HAVE THE HOUSING OFF FEEL INSIDE THE BLOCK WHERE THE WATER PUMP IMPELLER IS. This is your key to know if the water pump is sh1t and needs to be replaced.


      Once you detach the SAI hose rack and remove the dipstick tube, it's pretty easy to get at the thermostat housing with a 10 mm socket, 1/4" extension and a U-joint. You don't need to do anything with the alternator.

      I hadn't thought of reaching in to feel the water pump impeller. Good idea!
      Bob Lee
      2002 GTI 1.8t 297,000+ miles
      VCDS 18.2 with KEY-USB interface

    15. n00b
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      10-15-2013 09:44 AM #39
      I found the easiest way to get to the 2 bolts that hold the thermostat housing in place, was to use a long, "T" handle, 5mm, ball ended allan key. It slots straight in, and when tightening, you can manage to get the bolts to manufacturers torque easily.

    16. 11-13-2013 02:19 PM #40
      I just did this using the technique mentioned earlier in this thread that does not involve removing the alternator - i.e.:
      http://forums.audiworld.com/showthread.php?p=16925102

      A couple of tips from my trials:
      - I used a hairdryer to warm up the dipstick tube near the bottom where it attaches to the metal portion. After a couple of minutes, I was able to rotate the dipstick tube fairly easily and just eventually kept swivelling while pulling to get it off. Before the hairdryer, it wouldn't budge and I'm sure I would have broke it like the thread mentions. Also I live in Canada and it's currently around -2 deg C.

      - Get a telescoping magnetic tool like this: Telescoping pocket magnet - if you're inexperienced like me, you'll drop a bolt or socket into the bottom of the engine compartment . This tool saved me. Also, I used it to extract (once loose) and replace the bottom bolt of the thermostat housing, which seemed much easier with this tool, since there's very little room to put your hands in there if you don't take out the alternator.
      Last edited by rockyfan206; 11-13-2013 at 02:22 PM.

    17. Member
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      11-20-2013 03:52 PM #41
      Quote Originally Posted by explicitrock View Post
      Does anyone have the pictures? these aren't loading for me. and I need this asap!
      Wont load for me either. I did it once before using the guide, but it was like 6 years ago and I forget how. Would be a bit easier with the pictures!

    18. Member max13b2's Avatar
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      02-13-2014 10:28 PM #42
      Pics don't load and I need to replace the thermo on my 225 TT real soon. Does anyone have the pics? Help! TIA!

    19. Junior Member
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      02-24-2014 04:16 AM #43
      Quote Originally Posted by max13b2 View Post
      Pics don't load and I need to replace the thermo on my 225 TT real soon. Does anyone have the pics? Help! TIA!
      I'm gonna give this a shot tomorrow if I can I'll post as many photos as I can...

    20. Junior Member
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      02-26-2014 05:34 PM #44
      I was kinda rushed and hot so I didn't get to take photos. After taking out the tray under the manifold i couldn't get to the bottom screw. I couldn't get the socket to get a good bite even using a u-joint and an extension. I ended up removing the throttle body and the serp belt tensioner. I was able to get to the thermostat after moving the alternator out of the way. It didn't have to come out completely. I put it back together and refilled the res tank. Make sure you bleed it completely. I let it sit over night and the next morning the tank was empty, I refilled it again and ran the car with the cap off for a few minutes. I actually heard then it bled completely. I engine began to idle a lot smoother.

    21. 01-26-2015 03:01 PM #45
      just wanted to say thanks for the write up. Had to change mine out today, took about an hour, thanks to the good tips here.

    22. Member Jeffrayes9's Avatar
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      03-13-2015 01:09 AM #46
      instagram: @jeffy.lube

    23. 11-16-2015 10:04 PM #47
      Bumping an old thread as I recently changed my thermostat and thought I'd share some tips for future readers. It's pretty simple as long as everything goes smoothly.

      Initial stuff:
      - Do not drain the coolant
      - Do not remove the radiator hose from the thermostat housing
      - Do not remove the coolant reservoir cap
      - Do not remove the alternator or anything like that
      - Remove all of the SAI vacuum hoses and stuff (mine are already deleted)
      - Remove the dip stick tube
      - Place a catch pan under the car

      I used the following to access the thermostat bolts:
      - 10mm 1/4" socket
      - 4" 1/4" wobble extension
      - 6" 1/4" wobble extension
      - 1/4" drive ratchet

      This is how I accessed the lower thermostat bolt:


      Swapping thermostats:
      - Some coolant will come out when you remove the housing. Bend it up and out of the way
      - Remove the thermostat o-ring with a hook
      - More coolant will come out when you remove the thermostat so do the swap quickly
      - Replace the o-ring and reposition the thermostat housing

      Reinstalling the housing:
      - Thread the upper bolt in half way first
      - Use an extendable magnet to position the lower bolt in place and thread it in using your socket and extensions or by hand if possible
      - Torque to only 5 Nm (3-4ft lb)

      Wrapping up:
      - Refill the coolant reservoir with G12
      - Leave the reservoir cap off, start your engine and turn the heat on
      - Idle for 10-15 minutes to allow air to bleed from the cooling system
      - Refill coolant as needed
      - Replace the coolant cap, test drive and refill coolant if needed

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