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    1. 01-22-2008 11:48 AM #1
      My thermostat is going out. The car runs at around 140 to 160 degrees, my estimate based on where the temp gauge is reading. I already tried replacing the coolant temp sensor, and that wasn't it. Also, my mileage is down to around 330 per tankful.
      My question is, do any of you have any tips for getting the thermostat out? Specifically for a 1.8T, I fooled around with it for over an hour last night and I can't get a socket on the lower bolt. If I can't even get a socket on it, I obviously can't take it out. Now, it might be possible if I take out the throttle body and the alternator, but that would be a last resort.
      I've seen DIY threads on this, but they're based on other engines. I think there is more stuff in the way on a 1.8T.
      If you had this done by a shop, what did it cost?
      Thanks.

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    3. 01-22-2008 11:49 AM #2
      Alternator for sure. That means tensioner, acc. belt, as well. Don't even disconnect anything, just remove the alt. from the acc. bracket, and lay it to the side. Then the thermo housing is easily accessible. [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    4. 01-22-2008 11:51 AM #3
      Thanks. That was quick! Did you mess with the throttle body or no? I guess I need to find out which bolts to remove on the alternator....

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    6. Member SnowGTI2003's Avatar
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      01-22-2008 11:56 AM #4
      -Remove both plastic engine covers.
      -Remove the SAI plastic hose that goes down to the SAI pump
      -Remove the small tray on the front of the intake manifold that the SAI hoses connect to. Just 2 hex bolts. Move that vacuum hose mess out of your way.
      -Release tension on the belt tensioner using a 16 or 17mm open end wrench. Remove the belt from the alternator pully with the tension slack.
      -Remove the serpentine belt tensioner. ( 3 bolts )
      -Remove the top and bottom alternator bolts. These can be a pain. Use lube and wiggle lots.....
      That will give you access to the thermostat housing. Takes about 1.5 hours if you're moving at a beer sipping pace.
      I probably forgot something in there... My memory isn't exactly sharp.
      /No do not remove the throttle body. No need.


      Modified by SnowGTI2003 at 10:57 AM 1-22-2008

    7. 01-22-2008 12:06 PM #5
      Quote, originally posted by SnowGTI2003 »
      -Remove both plastic engine covers.
      No need for either
      -Remove the SAI plastic hose that goes down to the SAI pump No need.
      -Remove the small tray on the front of the intake manifold that the SAI hoses connect to. Just 2 hex bolts. Move that vacuum hose mess out of your way.No need
      -Release tension on the belt tensioner using a 16 or 17mm open end wrench. Remove the belt from the alternator pully with the tension slack.
      -Remove the serpentine belt tensioner. ( 3 bolts )
      -Remove the top and bottom alternator bolts. These can be a pain. Use lube and wiggle lots.....
      No do not remove the throttle body. No need. Yes, remove the the throttle, it's four bolts, and one elec. harness, leave the vac line connected, and lay to the side.
      I just did all this on Sunday.

    8. Member SnowGTI2003's Avatar
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      01-22-2008 12:37 PM #6
      Depends on which way you want to go in there to get it I guess. I did it about 3 months ago.
      I went in from the right side under the intake manifold which is why I moved that big rats nest of vac lines instead of removing the TB. That lower SAI hose needs to be removed in order to get enough slack to move the above rats nest out of the way.
      By far the most time consuming thermostat change I've ever done on any car I've owned. Ah well cabin heat is certainly nice when it's -30C outside.

    9. 01-22-2008 02:32 PM #7
      Yep, why do I put this off until the coldest day of the year..........

    10. Member 01gtiaww's Avatar
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      01-22-2008 02:39 PM #8
      I changed my thermostat from my GTI 1.8t and i did not have to remove alternator or anything else but the coolant hose to get to the thermostat housing. All you need to get is a flex joint and no need to remove alternator. [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]


      Modified by 01gtiaww at 2:38 PM 1-22-2008

    11. 01-22-2008 03:22 PM #9

    12. Member 01gtiaww's Avatar
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      01-22-2008 03:39 PM #10
      Quote, originally posted by my own style tt »
      This might help http://forums.audiworld.com/tt/msgs/1304805.phtml

      That is exactly the way i did mine without touching the thermostat for nothing. The key part is the flex joint. [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    13. 01-22-2008 04:17 PM #11
      A few quick notes...
      The dealer quoted $340 to do this. Looks like I'm doing it myself.
      That last link, Audi, is good but I wonder if there are a few extra inches (or just an inch) in the Audi? I still can't get a good look at it with that tray moved out of the way.
      In fact, I did loosen that tray that is hooked on to the oil dipstick chase... AND I BROKE IT! As a temporary measure, I JB-Weld'ed it back in, but does anyone know where I can find one of these on the web?
      Thanks for your help everyone.

    14. Member 01gtiaww's Avatar
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      01-22-2008 04:22 PM #12
      Quote, originally posted by idahowind »
      A few quick notes...
      The dealer quoted $340 to do this. Looks like I'm doing it myself.
      That last link, Audi, is good but I wonder if there are a few extra inches (or just an inch) in the Audi? I still can't get a good look at it with that tray moved out of the way.
      In fact, I did loosen that tray that is hooked on to the oil dipstick chase... AND I BROKE IT! As a temporary measure, I JB-Weld'ed it back in, but does anyone know where I can find one of these on the web?
      Thanks for your help everyone.

      I followed the link above and i have a GTI 1.8t. Worked perfectly.

    15. 01-22-2008 04:22 PM #13
      I am sorry that i didnt tell you but you didnt need to take off the dipstick. This jod is a big PITA and takes time but saves you money. The lower screw to the houseing is the worst to get in. Make sure you have a long magnet cause you might drop it. Just take your time it will all work out. [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    16. Member 01gtiaww's Avatar
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      01-22-2008 04:25 PM #14
      It is easier to remove the tray that holds the n valves as well as the dipstick. Gives you better clearance to get at the thermostat housing. The less stuff you have in the way the better. I did this recently. Took me about 30 minutes from start to finish including draining and filling the coolant. [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    17. 01-22-2008 04:30 PM #15
      I agree but as you can see alot of people are braking things in the prosess so just giving a alternitive to those that cant get the dipstick off. As for the tray that should be placed out of the way

    18. 01-23-2008 10:56 AM #16
      Just to close out this thread, and for the people who might search it out later, I did it!
      I was able to get the thermostat done. It was so nice to see the needle go up to 190 and then stay there, even on a morning where it was -5 F. And nice hot air through the vents as well.
      I did it without moving the alternator. In fact I didn't even take off any connections to it. The key is to get that "tray" out of the way, and also that oil dipstick funnel. That was the only casualty... I broke it, but there was no way to get it out without breaking it. The plastic was pretty much fused to the metal down at the base, and it would have broken no matter what.
      Using bungee cords was a great idea, very helpful.
      It's essential to have a swivel (u-joint) piece in your ratchet toolbox, and a stubby ratchet was also very helpful in working in those tight spaces.

    19. 01-23-2008 11:29 AM #17
      Just did this two days ago as well. It was a bit frustrating getting to the bottom bolt, but I did the job without removing the alternator. In fact, most of the difficulty was getting the radiator hose off of the thermostat housing. Car runs at a perfect 190 now, and doesn't deviate at all. I broke my dipstick tube as well, more of a careless mistake really. Should be easy to replace however. [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    20. 01-23-2008 12:17 PM #18
      congrats hope I helped out [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

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      01-23-2008 03:12 PM #19
      Quote, originally posted by 01gtiaww »
      All you need to get is a flex joint and no need to remove alternator. [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

      [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      Its a 10 min job max...

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      02-06-2008 08:00 PM #20
      Anybody have a part number for the dipstick tube? I'm looking at doing this job soon, and it sounds like a good idea to have one on hand...

    23. 02-06-2008 08:24 PM #21
      Just ride by the dealer and ask for one. It cost me around 8 bucks. [IMG]http://*****************.com/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    24. 02-07-2008 11:13 PM #22
      You need these tools: 1/4 inch rachet, 1/4 inch extension kit, 1/4 inch 10mm flex socket. You can get all these tools at sears. they have a three piece extension kit with different lengths. With these tools you can get the bottom bolt out. The alternator wiring harness will be in the way, just try to work around it. Do not take the alternator off unless you have to. The bushings that hold the bolts on rust and you have to hammer them in or you cant get the alternator to fit back on. Also use a telescopic magnet to put the bottom bolt in place.

    25. Member sidemaniac's Avatar
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      03-22-2008 05:37 PM #23
      Quote, originally posted by my own style tt »
      This might help http://forums.audiworld.com/tt/msgs/1304805.phtml

      this is exactly how to do it!
      no need to remove alternator. All told took me about an hour.
      don't drop the lower bolt into the engine bay or you will be sorry.

    26. Semi-n00b Shire's Avatar
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      03-27-2011 03:56 PM #24
      I just did this. I found it easier to not remove the rubber hose from the coolant housing. it's flexy enough to move the whole thing out of the way. Seems like i lost quite a bit of coolant. as soon as i removed the thermo from the block, it gushed like mad. THAT should be a quick move--have the new one in your hand, pluck the old one out with that same hand and pop the new one in.


      I also noticed a fair amount of some kind of sediment in the coolant reservoir. any thoughts on that?


      themostat appears to have been replaced in october of '10--as well as the thermo housing, t belt, water pump and etc. recently replaced the CTS a few weeks ago for a CEL. car worked fine until just recently.it was getting nowhere near hot.

      I replaced the VW part #: 050 121 113c with a motorad 4419 (192 deg). seems to be settling on 190. perfect.

    27. Member xXGti2006Xx's Avatar
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      03-27-2011 06:27 PM #25
      yea def no need to remove alt, just get a flex joint socket and your good. If you are experienced this can be changed in a half hour or less but you will lose a lot of coolant be aware

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