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VR6 DYNO N/A

138K views 69 replies 51 participants last post by  PowerDubs 
#1 ·
VR6 Dyno's N/A

pls post pick of dyno graph and setup
Engine:
 
#4 ·
Re: VR6 Dyno's N/A (NitrousVR6)

Quote, originally posted by NitrousVR6 »
and does a faster time in the 1/4 mile.

The quickest chip only 1.8T car that I've ever seen run was 13.9x. Not even as fast as I am with some very minor bolt ons, let alone 190whp. That dyno graph went 13.6's on street tires and 13.22s on slicks.
 
#7 ·
I just had the Jetta dyno'd today.
164.7/174.7 whp/wtq
I will post the dyno when I get home tonight.
It was running stupid rich up to top... 11.44 and 11.99
It may have a chip, but as far as I know it's a stock 2000 VR6 Jetta with 123000 miles.
I am not the first owner.
Here are the numbers:
First pull 4th gear, no floor fan and a dirty air filter 159/177
Second pull 4th gear, floor fan and no air filter. 164.7/174.7
Third pull 3rd gear, floor fan and no air filter. 164.9/178.8





Modified by TurboRocco at 3:32 PM 2-20-2007
 
#13 ·
Re: VR6 Dyno's N/A (Corradokcid)


Here was my setup pre-turbo :
* Cat 263* Cams
* GIAC 268 Chip
* 12V VR6 - MK3 2.8L, stock head gasket, 100k miles
* TT 2.5" exhaust, single borla, hi-flow cat
 
#14 ·
Re: VR6 Dyno's N/A (maxslug)

Nice power band maxslug. If you want to go a little further with a cold air intake,pullies, and if you are OBD I you can have your 2.8 throttle body ported out to get rid of the ramp. With these mods you should be able to see 180-185whp(I am thinking conservatively you may get a little more). If you ever decide to get a lightened flywheel the lightened pullies combo makes 1st and 2nd gear a lot of fun.
You probably just spent an assload on what you have now so I'm not expecting that you would want to go right out and buy more stuff. The powerband looks like it's a fun car to drive.

I'm wondering what my dyno will look like after I get the last of my N/A mods done plus I am putting in a VR6 with 62K on it b/c the one that died had 176K on it.
My mods now are this.
Schrick VGI
GIAC
TT 264/260(might get dougherty 268's)
Turn2 CAI
Neuspeed catback
UR pullies
Euro 2.9TB
Autotech LFW 10lb.
Bosal Header
Neuspeed clutch was like $900.00 I paid way too much for this.
My last N/A mods are going to be
Race port/polished thermal coated big valve head 42/36
TT highflow cat
MKIV headgasket
and I might get the 268DRC's to see if they compliment the new head more than the TT's do but the cams are a bit down the road.
I will post the dyno once I get th car running. Thanks.
 
#15 ·
Re: VR6 Dyno's N/A (VR6DPLMT.)

Quote, originally posted by VR6DPLMT. »
Nice power band maxslug. If you want to go a little further with a cold air intake,pullies, and if you are OBD I you can have your 2.8 throttle body ported out to get rid of the ramp. With these mods you should be able to see 180-185whp(I am thinking conservatively you may get a little more). If you ever decide to get a lightened flywheel the lightened pullies combo makes 1st and 2nd gear a lot of fun.

Thanks. That was from a couple of years ago before I blew up the motor, bored it out to 83.5mm and threw a turbo on there. I did have a lightened flywheel on there at that time too... good mod for N/A.
but let's get back to the dyno's
 
#16 ·
Re: VR6 Dyno's N/A (maxslug)


Stock Block
Stock Head
TT 260/264 Cams
TT 2.5" Catback
42 DD Cat Delete Pipe
Worked Stock exhaust manifolds - Ceramic Coated
Worked Stock Downpipe
13.4 LB Stock Flywheel (machined down)
Sachs Sport Clutch
Stock Airbox - K+N Dropin
LightWeight Lifters
A/C Delete
Sai Delete
Catchcan
UR Pulley set
Phenolic Spacer
Gasket Matched upper / lower inake manifolds
Results in sig........
notes...
Full cat back w/ worked exhaust manifolds downpipe ~ all else the same 10 ftlbs - 7 whp same dyno

plotted off excel using corrected #'s. Took forever.
 
#17 ·
Re: VR6 Dyno's N/A (Northren vr6)

my old car

110k on the clocks
ported TB
ported manni's and down pipe
test pipe
2.5 exhaust with spintech muffler
sach's clutch
autotech LWFW
3.5 inch maf and intake tube
apexi super afc2
giac chip
adjustable FPR
the car is still runnig lean but with bigger injectors it should be good for about 180whp and then is time for some cams and a mk4 head gasket.
 
#19 ·
Re: VR6 Dyno's N/A (mannyman3)

Post from the 12v forum.
Quote, originally posted by me »
Due to enough people asking me how much power it's putting down.. and a bit of spare cash and an afternoon off..

Many thanks to Scott, Don and Arno at NGP Racing for taking care of me while I was there. Don, you always do a great job running the dyno http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Started off in the 185.x range and after a few pulls the 187.0 came around. This is the exact same prep I ran the 13.415 on Wed.
Mods:
Autotech 262 cams
42 Draft Test Pipe
TT 2.5" exhaust w/Borla
Turn 2 Cold Air intake
Mk4 Headgasket
UR pullies
DIY Light Flywheel
GIAC cam chip
Mk4 plug wires
Bosch FR6LDC plugs - reused more times then I can count
Motor is a 139k stock block, with a 140+k stock head on it (stock springs), manifolds and tb are all stock. All back to back pulls were started at 140deg oil temp.
Trans has a 3.94/lsd and pulls were done in 4th.
I was impressed all over with the dyno and it makes sense why the car was so strong at the track. I think the Autotech's wake up a stock head car really well.. it'll be interesting what they do in the ported one that's going on next.
3whp shy of Bildon's super blueprint/valve job and custom ecu tune motor but with a stock engine with a gasket and cams. Much easier and cheaper though.

Stay tuned.
 
#20 ·
Re: VR6 Dyno's N/A (need_a_VR6)

Here's mine:

The green is after my DSR 256 116LC, 2.5" test pipe, TT 2.5 DP, and ported manifolds. I lost some torque down low, but I was really happy with the ~22whp gain at 6500 rpm.
Anybody have any idea what is going on at the changeover in the manifold? A rare Mk4 NA 12v
 
#21 ·
Re: VR6 Dyno's N/A (VRdublove)

The switchover point is just too low. With the new setup it looks like you want to ride out the low rpm flapper until about 4400. I've seen similar things on VGi cars with the crossover set non-optimumally. How you change it could get interesting as you can't use the stock ECU for it. MSD window switch and some playing around could gain you about 10lb ft right at where it dips. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
 
#22 ·
Re: VR6 Dyno's N/A (need_a_VR6)

Just got back from the dyno....among a few minor other things i added a vgi this winter.
10 or so dyno pulls later, came to conclusion on my car that the vgi is best switched at 5100 rpm. Started at 4000 and worked my way up in 200 rpm increments until 5300. redid the 4700 rpm pull twice, as the car needed to cool down.
I also found out that the schrick adds 20+/- ftlbs/whp to wheels below 4400 rpm, after that point i'm down 10 ftlbs/whp to around 6k rpm. At that point i'm where i was previously. Quite intersting really.
Peak whp 184@6k Last year -whp 186@6k
Peak wtq 187@4k Last year -wtq 172@4.4k
Changing the switchover point to a later rpm lessened the drop by aproximatley 12-15whp. Turning on the fan was 10 whp too

BIG difference in driveability. Makes a stock vr feel broken.
Dyno graphs will be forthcoming. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif




Modified by Northren vr6 at 9:13 PM 6-19-2007


Modified by Northren vr6 at 8:46 AM 6-20-2007
 
#24 ·
Re: VR6 Dyno's N/A (VRdublove)

I could be wrong, but I believe my manifold is switched over by vacuum. There is a vacuum hose going directly into the changeover device, and I see no wiring whatsover. If this is the case, is there any way to rig this vacuum line to produce a little less suction, therefore delaying the changeover?
 
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