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    1. Member TooFitToQuit's Avatar
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      07-08-2013 12:57 PM #4501
      Quote Originally Posted by cuppie View Post
      Because it's a manual transmission, with a team of hydraulic gnomes bolted onto it.

      There's technique to driving that box. If you lift off of the throttle a bit during upshifts, the gearchanges are a lot smoother (read: doesn't try to faceplant you into the wheel.)
      Start trying that. Makes a big difference.
      Will try that next. We kept getting banged around on shifts during our maiden voyage.
      2019 Toyota Tacoma TRD Sport 4WD - Volk Racing | Stoptech | JL Audio | Morimoto Lighting
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    3. Member THE KILLER RABBIT's Avatar
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      07-08-2013 01:53 PM #4502
      how does a modern gas station pump work? particularly how does the auto shut off work.

    4. Member Rob Cote's Avatar
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      07-08-2013 01:57 PM #4503
      Quote Originally Posted by THE KILLER RABBIT View Post
      how does a modern gas station pump work? particularly how does the auto shut off work.
      To piggyback off this question, do they use a peristaltic pump to meter the fuel?
      Quote Originally Posted by Hudsone View Post
      No one knows what and where I have to go to them?

    5. Member robr2's Avatar
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      07-08-2013 02:09 PM #4504
      Quote Originally Posted by THE KILLER RABBIT View Post
      how does a modern gas station pump work? particularly how does the auto shut off work.
      Here's a picture:



      As you pump gas, a vacuum is created in the vacuum tube. When your tank is reaching it's limit, gasoline covers the port, breaking the vacuum and disengaging the flow.

    6. 07-08-2013 02:41 PM #4505
      Quote Originally Posted by TooFitToQuit View Post
      Why does the SMG tranny in our new track E46 M3 suck so much ass?
      Because it's a BMW
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    7. 07-08-2013 02:54 PM #4506
      Why don't people change their own oil (disregarding those with new cars and free oil changes from the dealer)?

      Was at a lady friends house last night, and she had a few people over. One of the girls was talking about getting a new car soon, and mentioned that she wanted a VW or Audi, but specifically an Audi. I kept quiet while it was going on, but what I really wanted to say was "Please, don't get one."
      I kept quiet, but one of the girls mentioned "Don't get an Audi. An oil change from a 'regular car' is like $20, an oil change on an Audi is like $220."

      I sat there and the only thing I thought was "Are oil change prices still a factor in today's car buying?"
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    8. Member z0d's Avatar
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      07-08-2013 03:12 PM #4507
      Quote Originally Posted by Cole Schmitt View Post
      Why don't people change their own oil (disregarding those with new cars and free oil changes from the dealer)?
      YMMV, but most oil changes cost about as much as buying your own oil and filter do. And that's without deals.



      Even for someone who has more than enough experience doing oil changes, I'm not inclined to crawl under my car and get messy when getting the same thing done at my dealership is cheaper.

      Then, of course, you've got the average person who doesn't even know how to do the job in the first place.
      Last edited by z0d; 07-08-2013 at 03:14 PM.

    9. Member barry2952's Avatar
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      07-08-2013 03:14 PM #4508
      Quote Originally Posted by Cole Schmitt View Post
      Why don't people change their own oil (disregarding those with new cars and free oil changes from the dealer)?

      Was at a lady friends house last night, and she had a few people over. One of the girls was talking about getting a new car soon, and mentioned that she wanted a VW or Audi, but specifically an Audi. I kept quiet while it was going on, but what I really wanted to say was "Please, don't get one."
      I kept quiet, but one of the girls mentioned "Don't get an Audi. An oil change from a 'regular car' is like $20, an oil change on an Audi is like $220."

      I sat there and the only thing I thought was "Are oil change prices still a factor in today's car buying?"
      I never change the oil on my dailies, but always on my classics. I want to work on my classics, but hate working on the dailies. In fact, in 15 years of owning my M-class I've never twisted a wrench on it.

      Some people don't do it simply because they don't have to. I would bet my wife could change the oil, but why should she? I'm just happy she checks it.

      I just acquired a hoist for my shop, so I may change my tune.

    10. Member bustedbucket's Avatar
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      07-10-2013 02:18 PM #4509
      Hey folks, I have a silly question about radar detectors as I know absolutely nothing about them. A ticket in my kitty a few months ago has me wanting one to ensure safe highway travel at a desired pace. It would also be nice to be able to use it in the daily.

      Anyway for the nOObishness: Are there any that you can just plug into the cigar lighter port(or cigarette lighter port in the accent) without other wiring? Do they have to be affixed somewhere near or on the windscreen, or can I just rest it on my console or seat and still be effective? I just don't want to do any interior modding at all in the jag. I'd be okay with it in the accent, but I want to be able to use it in both vehicles.
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    11. Member Spiller337's Avatar
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      07-10-2013 02:25 PM #4510
      Here's my question, been thinking about it since yesterday.

      My mother used to have a 1994 Chevy Lumina Z34. Automatic, with the 3.4 V6 obviously.

      That engine had a 7k rpm redline, however, the fuel cut at 5200rpm to prevent valve float.

      If the fuel cuts at 5200rpm so the valves don't float, then what is the point of the 7k redline?


      I have also seen videos of manual version revving easily to 7000 rpm, and as far as I know the fuel cut was the same for them.

      Whassupwitdat?
      Quote Originally Posted by Ernie McCracken View Post
      Something something haters something YOLO, etc.
      @Spiller337

    12. Member Smigelski's Avatar
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      07-10-2013 02:48 PM #4511
      Quote Originally Posted by bustedbucket View Post
      Hey folks, I have a silly question about radar detectors as I know absolutely nothing about them. A ticket in my kitty a few months ago has me wanting one to ensure safe highway travel at a desired pace. It would also be nice to be able to use it in the daily.

      Anyway for the nOObishness: Are there any that you can just plug into the cigar lighter port(or cigarette lighter port in the accent) without other wiring? Do they have to be affixed somewhere near or on the windscreen, or can I just rest it on my console or seat and still be effective? I just don't want to do any interior modding at all in the jag. I'd be okay with it in the accent, but I want to be able to use it in both vehicles.
      Yes. Detectors usually come with hard wire and cigarette lighter powered options. But you can't just lay it on your seat. Remember that the radio waves from the RADAR gun bounce off of your car and back to the gun. So your detector needs to be in a place where the body of the car won't interfere,like in the windshield (the higher up the better) or on the front of your car (with a remote unit).

      Also, be sure to do some digging and find out what the local LEOs use in terms of radar bands and get a detector that includes those frequencies. If they are using LIDAR (lasers instead of radio waves) or instant on RADAR, then you're screwed - the detector won't be of much help.

      Or you could just slow down to within 9 MPH of the speed limit or the speed of the rest of traffic.

    13. Member bustedbucket's Avatar
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      07-10-2013 02:57 PM #4512
      Thanks for the info!

      Or you could just slow down to within 9 MPH of the speed limit or the speed of the rest of traffic.
      There were cars doing 10mph more than I was when I received my last ticket. The cop pretty much admitted to profiling me because of what I was driving and said that I should set an example.
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    14. Member
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      07-10-2013 03:27 PM #4513
      is it better to put 94 octane gas in your car, when all it needs is 88? i don't think it is, but my dad fills up his car with 94 when it needs 88, he says it's better for fuel injectors.

    15. Geriatric Member VDub2625's Avatar
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      07-10-2013 03:29 PM #4514
      Quote Originally Posted by Spiller337 View Post
      Here's my question, been thinking about it since yesterday.

      My mother used to have a 1994 Chevy Lumina Z34. Automatic, with the 3.4 V6 obviously.

      That engine had a 7k rpm redline, however, the fuel cut at 5200rpm to prevent valve float.

      If the fuel cuts at 5200rpm so the valves don't float, then what is the point of the 7k redline?


      I have also seen videos of manual version revving easily to 7000 rpm, and as far as I know the fuel cut was the same for them.

      Whassupwitdat?
      I hate the term 'redline'. The tach, in principle, has nothing to do with the engine. I consider 'redline' to be the fuel cut-off, which is one fixed value, not a bunch of separate points that people talk about (fuel cutoff, redline on the tach, tach end). Of course, it seems that most people consider 'redline' when the tach starts the red shading, or when the tach ends. Sometimes, those match the fuel cutoff, but sometimes not. I think it's a bit daft to talk about where a pretty red mark starts on the gauge, as it generally has nothing to do with the operation of the engine. Some cars have an unnecessarily high 'tach redline' to make them seem cool (usually American cars since they tend to have lower cutoff limits).

      I can't speak for the Lumina, but some cars have different engine characteristics (including fuel cutoff) for manual vs. automatic, because the manuals can handle the abuse more. Also, I kinda doubt the Lumina could rev to 7k stock (it's possible, but unlikely from an American V6). THe ones you've seen could have included a chip that raises the limit.

      Quote Originally Posted by bustedbucket View Post
      The cop pretty much admitted to profiling me because of what I was driving and said that I should set an example.
      I would fight the ticket, even if you don't win, it's worth a shot. And usually these conversations are recorded, so I'd say something about this in court, it might get thrown out. Especially if you have a good record.
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    16. Member
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      07-10-2013 03:30 PM #4515
      Quote Originally Posted by spirroncello View Post
      is it better to put 94 octane gas in your car, when all it needs is 88? i don't think it is, but my dad fills up his car with 94 when it needs 88, he says it's better for fuel injectors.
      No, higher octane is to prevent pinging in a high-strung engine (or a beat up one). The chemicals used to up octane are NOT gasoline and have less energy, so at best you're getting less mileage out of your tank and at worst you're contaminating it more than necessary.

      People complain that gasoline some places has up to 10% ethanol added. Higher octane fuel is pretty much just more of that type of thing if i remember right.

      Now if your engine is not running right and knocking, higher octane will dampen that and prevent damage.

    17. Banned StormChaser's Avatar
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      07-10-2013 03:34 PM #4516
      Quote Originally Posted by Spiller337 View Post
      Here's my question, been thinking about it since yesterday.

      My mother used to have a 1994 Chevy Lumina Z34. Automatic, with the 3.4 V6 obviously.

      That engine had a 7k rpm redline, however, the fuel cut at 5200rpm to prevent valve float.

      If the fuel cuts at 5200rpm so the valves don't float, then what is the point of the 7k redline?


      I have also seen videos of manual version revving easily to 7000 rpm, and as far as I know the fuel cut was the same for them.

      Whassupwitdat?
      What makes you think the ENGINE had a 7k redline? Just because the tach goes to 7,000? Or just because it can rev to 7k?

    18. Member Smigelski's Avatar
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      07-10-2013 05:10 PM #4517
      Quote Originally Posted by StormChaser View Post
      What makes you think the ENGINE had a 7k redline? Just because the tach goes to 7,000? Or just because it can rev to 7k?
      It's what the instrument panel says, at least.


    19. Geriatric Member AKADriver's Avatar
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      07-10-2013 05:18 PM #4518
      This same scenario played out on auto-trans Neons with the DOHC engine, and the 1st and second gen Taurus SHO.

      The premature fuel cut had nothing to do with valve float. The engine was perfectly capable of sustaining 7000rpm on an engine dyno and the tach markings reflect that.

      The fuel cut was there to protect the transmission and engine accessories.

      A 1st gen Neon with the DOHC/auto setup was actually slower than an SOHC/auto, because the autos all had a lower fuel cut which kicked in below the DOHC engine's power peak. Below 6000rpm the SOHC made slightly more power/torque.
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    20. Member adrew's Avatar
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      07-10-2013 05:29 PM #4519
      Quote Originally Posted by StormChaser View Post
      What makes you think the ENGINE had a 7k redline? Just because the tach goes to 7,000? Or just because it can rev to 7k?
      They have a 7k redline, officially, and pull to that speed without issues (unlike the pushrod version of the same engine which runs out of breath around 4500 RPM)



      Story about it - apparently it is detuned quite a bit for transmission durability:
      http://www.angelfire.com/ca2/34Performance/dohc.html
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    21. Member
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      07-12-2013 12:45 AM #4520
      Assuming 0 degree toe, equal caster L and R, and a camberless road:
      RF has 0 camber.
      Lf has -1.0 camber.

      shown as /--------| when looking towards the front

      1)Will the drift in direction be towards the side with more positive camber?

      I think drift will be towards the right----the effective diameter of the front left tire will be less on the inside edge and it will cover less distance and tend to turn right.

      2) Will toe in or toe out affect the amount of drift to a greater amount?
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    22. Member
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      07-12-2013 10:31 PM #4521
      I know camshaft sprockets have a mark for TDC. Do crankshaft sprockets have the same mark?
      In particular, I am inquiring about the mkIV 1.8t engine, but a general answer would be ok too.

      I am looking around, and I can't seem to locate a TDC mark on the crankshaft sprocket. Instead, I see that some accessory pulleys that are attached to the crankshaft will have a TDC mark.

      also, based on this DIY
      https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...iming-Belt-DIY!

      there would be a TDC mark on the flywheel. However, I changed my clutch + flywheel and i doubt the shop put the clutch in and made sure the TDC mark on the flywheel matched the other TDC marks. In that case, how do i ensure that cylinder 1 will be at TDC?


      Supposing i didn't have nail polish or anything to mark my belt/sprockets with and wanted to do it like an automotive wiz
      Last edited by jonpwn; 07-12-2013 at 10:45 PM.

    23. Geriatric Member VDub2625's Avatar
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      07-13-2013 07:41 AM #4522
      Quote Originally Posted by jonpwn View Post
      there would be a TDC mark on the flywheel. However, I changed my clutch + flywheel and i doubt the shop put the clutch in and made sure the TDC mark on the flywheel matched the other TDC marks. In that case, how do i ensure that cylinder 1 will be at TDC?
      There should be a TDC mark on the crankshaft. However, in older VWs, it's on the crankshaft accessory pulley, and it lines up with a mark on the timing belt cover. It might be the same for you. Also, the flywheel has dowel pins and only goes in one way, to ensure the TDC mark is in the correct place. To ge t agood idea of TDC, insert a long rod (I use the foot-long extension on my ratchet set) into the spark plug hole and turn until it's sticking out the furthest. THat will get you the general area, and fine-tune it using the marks.
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    24. Geriatric Member VDub2625's Avatar
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      07-13-2013 08:43 AM #4523
      My question, now, is on the effect of an LSD on economy. It should improve economy, correct, since more of the power is making it to the road and pushing the car forward? No more wasted power spinning tires.
      A2Resource
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    25. Member barry2952's Avatar
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      07-13-2013 08:57 AM #4524
      Quote Originally Posted by VDub2625 View Post
      My question, now, is on the effect of an LSD on economy. It should improve economy, correct, since more of the power is making it to the road and pushing the car forward? No more wasted power spinning tires.
      All LSD does is send power to the tire with the most traction. How would that affect economy?

    26. Member NotFast's Avatar
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      07-19-2013 11:05 PM #4525
      After a super scary drive home in a super scary storm....

      Do wider/narrower tires cause more/less hydroplaning in the rain?

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