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The Autocross Information Thread

108K views 83 replies 57 participants last post by  4ceFed4 
#1 ·
It's about time this forum had a thread for common questions and answers. Feel free to add specific information or links on autocross or autocrossing VWs..

What is autocross?
Autocross, at its essence, is very simple. It's motorsports for the masses. Anyone can come out, with virtually any car, and test their driving skills in a safe, controlled manner. My favorite description of what exactly it is comes from Dennis Grant, one of the founders of the Street Modified class: "The basic concept is simple: take a large paved area. Describe, on it's surface, a race course, marked off with traffic cones and flour lines. Place a timer at the start and finish, and one car at a time, drive through as fast as you possibly can. Hit a cone, and get two seconds added to your time. The track is never the same twice from event to event. There are no practice runs. We run rain or shine. In Formula One terms, an autocross is like bringing your team to a track (which was completely torn down and rebuilt from the last time you were here); you get three qualifying laps, from standing starts (each one!) and on cold tires (no tire warmers allowed). The next day, you do the same thing, but in the opposite direction, and then the track owner rips up the track and starts building a new one. 6 runs total [generally 3 runs for one day events], best one each day counts. This all makes for a sport that is very different from any other style of motorsport. On the whole, it is less expensive and less dangerous than other forms, as there is very little chance of crashing into something hard, and speeds tend to be slower. On the other hand, it demands a very high level of aggressiveness and driver precision - you have to be instantly fast, and everything must go right right away. There is just no margin for error.
Races are won and lost by thousandths of a second, and the mental pressure can be enormous."

Is it dangerous?
Just like any other form of motorsports, Solo2 has some element of risk. However, the SCCA has specific rules defined to make an event as safe as possible and, in general, Solo2 is at least as safe as driving on the street. Usually, there are no more than 3 cars on a course at a given time, and that's only when the course allows sufficient separation. Workers are positioned around the course with fire extinguishers and red flags to inform cars when there's a problem. Courses are designed so that if a car does lose control, or spin, there's nothing even close to it that could be hit. Spectators are only allowed in certain areas around a course. Kids under 12 are not allowed in hot areas, which include grid, prestart, course and impound. Be aware that other organizations have differing rules, and many are not as safe as an SCCA event.

What is ProSolo?
ProSolo is a national series run by the SCCA. Where most Solo2 events run one car at a time, a ProSolo runs two cars head-to-head on mirror image courses with a drag strip start and a Christmas tree. Reaction times are part of the times. Each car gets 4 runs on each side and the best run on each side is totaled for their time. ProSolo also has a Super Challenge at the end of each event. Each car in the Challenge has a dial-in similar to bracket drag racing. In a given round, the two cars get a run on each side, whoever wins advances.
Example map: http://www.wincom.net/trog/new...e.JPG

Don't expect much in the beginning..
Out on the street, we all think we're the best drivers. And who wouldn't? There's no evidence to the contrary, so we get to think whatever we want. Often someone new checks out an autocross and just thinks it doesn't look like that big of a deal. Driving is a lot different than watching. Once you get to the start line, and there's a big sea of cones in front of you, things change. For those of you who may be nervous or a bit intimidated already (hopefully you're not!) the next couple sentences are not for you. For the street racer or canyon cruiser or spirited street driver, read on. Here's the first step. Check your ego in at the gate. Assume you can't drive, because chances are, compared to a seasoned autocrosser, you can't. This isn't a hit or a knock on your driving skills, because we all start out at this point. We all think we're the greatest, and then we get out there on course, see our times, and realize we're not. The best things you can do is listen to the experienced people around you, pay attention during the course walk, and take advice. Your goals for a first autocross should be to stay on course and, if you can do that, improve your time by the end of the day. At this point, the car you drive, or what modifications it has won't really matter. In fact, having a modified car will only hurt as it may mask things you may be doing slowly. The primary limiting factor will be the driver. As you get better, you will be able to truly take advantage of making the car better. A couple of mantras you will probably hear repeated in one form or another, but won't really "get" for awhile. "Slow down to go faster." The beginner usually tries to be too fast in the slow parts of a course, and too slow in the fast stuff. "In like a lamb, out like a lion." Generally, late apexing is the only answer.

Walking the course
Your goal when walking the course is twofold. To commit the entire course to memory so you can go through it in your head at "full speed", and to choose the line through the course that you think will be the fastest and be able to do it without thinking. So walk the course twice. Generally try to focus on what you're doing and have enough clear area ahead of you so that you can see what the course will look like when you drive it. Break the course up into sections and try to analyze the entire section as a whole to determine where you want the car to be at each turn. Memorize it, play it back through your head, and go!

SCCA Solo2 Classing Structure
Cars are classed in the SCCA first by modifications and second by the cars' set of traits and capabilities. Each ruleset is strict; in other words, if it doesn't say that you CAN do it, than you CAN NOT do it and remain legal for the class. The general progression of levels of modifications is as follows: Stock, Street Touring, Street Prepared, Street Modified, Prepared, Modified. Note that this is not a linear progression. Everything, for instance, that is legal for Street Prepared is not necessarily legal for Prepared. Once a car is placed in one of these categories, its placed in a specific class along with other cars that perform similarly. Example cars for each class are below.

Why the rules are the way they are; or why even adding 1psi of boost must be considered the same as adding 20 psi.
The ruleset is very stringent. To people new to autocross or motorsports in general this may seem antithetical. "Why does having a chip place me in Street Modified, its only a software map and I'm still underpowered!" or "I have a different transmission in my car, but it doesn't really help that much, so why am I placed in such a hard class?" are common questions. The ruleset for each class has to cover all cars. Further, the rules must be able to place cars properly based on the car's potential as it would be if it were modified TO THE LIMIT OF THE RULES. This is important. Changes in stock boost level, for example, are illegal in Stock, Street Touring, and Street Prepared. It would be an impossible task to set boost level maximums and actually be able to control or check levels at an event. The alternative is either allowing unlimited boost (which is what Street Modified does) or allowing no boost changes (SP and lower). Note that the below listings are not exhaustive. For complete rule details see the SCCA Rulebook. This is just a general guide.
Stock
Allowed Modifications:
Driver harness
Roll bar or roll cage (SCCA specs)
Shock absorbers with the same mounting type
Trailer hitch
Wheels with the same diameter and width as stock (i.e. a GTI 337/20th must use a 18x7.5", it cannot use a 17" from a GTI)
Front swaybar
Brake pads
Air filter (not intake)
Tires (anything D.O.T. legal including R compounds)
Cat-back exhaust
Classes and example/common cars for each class
Super Stock: Corvette Z06, Viper, 996 911, 93+ RX-7
A Stock: C4 Corvette, Mitsubishi Evolution, Subaru WRX STi, 00-04 Honda S2000, E46 BMW M3, Porsche Boxster S
B Stock: Mazda RX-8, Nissan 350Z, E36 BMW M3, MR2 Turbo, Porsche 968 M030
C Stock: Mazda Miata 1.8L, Toyota MR2 Spyder, Porsche 914
D Stock: Integra Type-R, Audi S4, VW GTI/Jetta 24v VR6, R32, Lexus IS300, BMW 325/328/330
E Stock: Toyota MR2 non-turbo, 90-97 Mazda Miata, Porsche 924
F Stock: Camaro V8, Mustang V8
G Stock: Celica GT, Mini Cooper S, VW Corrado VR6, GTI/Golf/Jetta 1.8T, 16v
H Stock: Mini Cooper, BMW 318

Street Touring
STS - four seat vehicles, maximum displacement of 3.1L NA and small displacement forced induction sedans
Allowed Modifications:
Shocks, springs, swaybars, strut bars/braces
Wheels up to 7.5" width
Tires up to 225 width
Street tires with at least 140 treadwear rating
Steering wheels
Short shift kits
Fully upholstered seats
Pedals
Body kits, spoilers, wings, removal of factory trim
Brake pads, rotors, lines
Intake, cat back exhaust, header
Emissions legal engine management
Underdrive pulleys
Relocation of battery
STX - 2WD vehicles may use any LSD, engines up to 5.1L NA, 2.0L forced induction.
Allowed Modifications:
STS modifications carry over
Any LSD for 2WD vehicles
Wheels up to 8" width
Tires up to 245 width
Example cars:
STS: Honda Civic, Dodge Neon, Toyota Celica, Mini Cooper, VW GTI/Golf/Jetta 1.8T, Jetta/GTI 16v, Corrado VR6, Audi A4 non-Quattro
STX: Honda Civic, Mini Cooper S, Subaru WRX, Integra Type R, E30 BMW M3

Street Prepared
Allowed Modifications:
The allowed modifications in SP are extensive, the following is a general summary.
Anything allowed in Stock
Update/Backdate rules for any cars on the same line in the rulebook
Any wheel and tire width
Shocks, springs, swaybars, strut bars/braces
Camber plates
Any fully padded seats, steering wheels, pedals, roll cages up to 8 points of attachment
Fuel cells allowed with certain qualifications
Suspension bushings
Limited Slip Differentials
Carburetion, fuel injection, intake manifolds, intake, exhaust manifolds, exhaust
Motor mounts
Clutch/flywheel
Overbore to .0472" with oversize pistons
Balancing
Port matching, milling
Pulleys
Ignition system
Classes and example/popular cars for each class:
ASP: C5 Corvette, Lotus Elan, 996 911, 93+ RX-7
BSP: C4 Corvette, E36 BMW M3
CSP: Honda CRX, Toyota MR2 Spyder, Mazda Miata, Mazda RX-3
DSP: E36 BMW 325/323/328, Lexus IS300, E46 BMW 330, Fiat X1/9, Acura Integra GS-R, Mini Cooper S
ESP: Camaro V8, Mustang V8, WRX, WRX STi, Mitsubishi Evo
FSP: Honda Civic 92+, VW Scirocco 8v, VW Rabbit/Jetta 75-84

Street Modified/2
Allowable Modifications:
Anything in Stock, Street Touring, or Street Prepared
Drivetrain is unlimited except: engine from same company as manufacturer (Honda/Acura, VW/Audi swaps are OK)
Max displacements:
FI: 3L OHC, 4L pushrod
NA: 6L
Rotary: 1.5L
Suspension is unlimited except: Must use original suspension attachment points
Brakes unlimited
Rear passenger seat can be removed
Hood/front fenders can be changed
Firewall, roof, doors, rear quarter panels, floor pans, trunk lid must be stock
Minimum weights:
SM:
FWD: 1800 lbs NA, 1900 lbs FI
RWD: 2200 lbs NA, 2400 lbs FI
AWD: 2400 lbs NA, 2600 lbs FI
SM2:
FWD: 1500 lbs NA, 1600 lbs FI
RWD: 1900 lbs NA, 2100 lbs FI
AWD: 2100 lbs NA, 2300 lbs FI
Common cars:
SM: Any sedan/coupe with four seats (not sports-car based) such as VW Scirocco, Golf, Jetta, Passat, Dodge Neon, Honda Civic, BMW 3 series (including M3), Supra, WRX, Mitsubishi Evo, Talon/Eclipse, etc, etc
SM2: All two seaters/sports cars such as Corvettes, MR2, 911, Z cars, Honda CRX, Miata, or an underweight or over displacement SM car. All Lotus are excluded.

Autocross specific wheel philosophy
The general, most common rule of thumb in autocross is get the most rubber possible down at all 4 corners. While there are some minor exceptions to this rule, it almost always holds true. Wheel size will help you do this. Lets start with diameter. On the street, we all run big wheels because it looks cool. Drag racers tends to run small, wide wheels and tires with lots of sidewall. Several factors play into choosing a wheel diameter: weight, gearing, and fitment. The smaller the wheel, obviously, the lighter it is. The less unsprung mass, the better, so this is a good thing, and favors a smaller diameter. The shorter the wheel/tire combo, the shorter your gearing will be as well. So if you have a low-powered car, or your gearing is already very tall, a smaller diameter wheel will help you get a better gear ratio. Suddenly, you might not have to be shifting to third in a short straight. On the flipside, if you have a car with very short gearing (the STi comes to mind), a taller wheel/tire combo could help you stretch that out. The last main factor is fitment and tire size. Make sure you have an appropriate tire size for that wheel, and make sure it will fit on your car, clear your brakes, and not cause any tremendous problems.
As two examples, there are the high powered ASP/BSP cars, and there are the low powered ASP/CSP/FSP cars. The Corvette's of ASP/BSP want as much rubber as possible under their high powered, relatively heavy cars. So they run 17x11s or 17x12s with 315 or 335 width tires. The ASP Corvettes may also run 18s up front, allowing even less sidewall for better turn-in. The BMW M3s of BSP and even the E36 DSP cars are moving to 18s with 285 series tires and very short sidewalls. The low-powered, smaller, more nimble cars of ASP/CSP/FSP have none of these weight or power problems. So they all run 13" wheels that give them the shortest gearing, and the least amount of weight. Chances are they couldn't heat up a 275+ width tire anyway, so the 225/235 R comounds that Hoosier and Kumho offer are just fine.
Now on to wheel width. Let's say we've decided we're going to run 13" wheels on our SP cars. We have tires available that give us an 8-9" recommended width. What do we do? Well, the common thing to do here is to move to the wider side of the spectrum. The more width the wheel has that the same tire is on, the more width of the tire will be put down, so the wider the contact patch, to a point.
Of course, in a stock class, your wheel choice is limited to what came with the car, in which case you simply go with the lightest thing you can find, and then stuff the widest tire you can on it. C Stock Miata's usually have 225s on their 5.5" wide wheels.

BFB info
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1362998

Links:
http://www.scca.org
http://www.tirerack.com
http://solo.wdcr-scca.org
http://www.sfrscca.org/solo2/
http://www.autox4u.com
http://www.nedivsolo2.org
http://www.sedivsolo2.org
http://www.solo2.cendiv-scca.org/
http://www.solotime.com
http://www.solo2.com
http://www.solo2.org
http://www.soloperformance.com
http://www.sccaforums.com
http://www.autocross.com/evolution/
Add more good information!


Modified by Mhyrr at 6:30 PM 1-28-2005
 
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1
#30 ·
Re: (XclerksX)

your probably looking at SM...

Quote, originally posted by XclerksX »
I was thinking of eventually swapping a 16v head onto my 2.0l 8v engine and was wondering what class that would put me in (just assume stock otherwise, I'm only curious about the particular mod)
 
#31 ·
Re: The Autocross Information Thread (Mhyrr)

I have a question about my car. I have a 4 door 1983 VW rabbit. I have upgraded it with parts from my wrecked 83 gti. I converted it to a manual tranny and put in the stock gti engine/tranny. I put the front and rear sway bars on it. It also has the gti front seats, steering wheel and vented front rotors that the gti was originaly equiped with. Also the front air dam off the gti. I am wondering how it would work with the solo2 rules. Could it be considered stock? Or because it has engine/tranny and sway bars that it did not come with, would it be in a higher class? I understand the rest of the modification restrictions, just not quite sure about the gti stuff I added. Like if I say that the gti stuff I added is considered stock, then with the stress bars, urethane engine and suspension bushings I added would put me in the Street Touring (STS) class. I hope somone can help me out, I just want to know how this would all work out. Thank you.
 
#32 ·
Re: The Autocross Information Thread (VDubForLife)

in order to be stock you need to have "all" of the optinons/configurations that the gti came frome the factory with. So if the gti only came in 2door and you have a 4 door your car could never be considered a stock gti. If your car was completly upgraded to factory gti statusyou caould be sonsidered stock then add/subtract to get into st_ calsses.
However, I belive your car would probably be in SM as is.
 
#34 ·
Re: The Autocross Information Thread (meangreen18T)

Quote, originally posted by meangreen18T »
in order to be stock you need to have "all" of the optinons/configurations that the gti came frome the factory with. So if the gti only came in 2door and you have a 4 door your car could never be considered a stock gti. If your car was completly upgraded to factory gti statusyou caould be sonsidered stock then add/subtract to get into st_ calsses.
However, I belive your car would probably be in SM as is.

I believe all those mods fall under the update/backdate rules for Street Prepared (maybe ST has the same rule, IDK). The car would be legal for FSP.
 
#35 ·
Re: The Autocross Information Thread (Mhyrr)

Quote, originally posted by Mhyrr »
Changes in stock boost level, for example, are illegal in Stock, Street Touring, and Street Prepared. It would be an impossible task to set boost level maximums and actually be able to control or check levels at an event. The alternative is either allowing unlimited boost (which is what Street Modified does) or allowing no boost changes (SP and lower).

...so ok - I have a GIAC 93 Octane program on my 1.8T. If I get the Flashloader that restores the car's PCM to its stock maps, will I be able to run stock class?? the boost levels would be back to normal, also.
 
#36 ·
Re: The Autocross Information Thread (fast, Jr.)

by the book you have to have the stock programming to run stock class, however it is unlikely that anyone will care if you run GIAC's flashloader interpretation of the "stock" calibration. Your going to get beat by the Mini Cooper S anyways. If i were you I would run the flashloader stock program and just not tell anybody that you are or were ever chipped.
 
#38 ·
Hopefully this will be an easier question than some of the others.
I used to race my 94 Jetta in the FSP classification but my 07 Rabbit is listed in H class stock. Right now it is stock, and I can't find the Rabbit listed anywhere else in the classivication pages.
I would assume that in a couple months, after my upgrades I would fall back into the FSP, even though the Rabbit is not an F class stock car? There is no HSP classification, and don't want to look like a complete fool walking out there and not knowing where to race.
I am also tempted to go ahead and start competing in the FSP class to get prepared for when I will actully become competitive.
Thanks for any help, this thread has been very helpfull so far.
 
#39 ·
Re: (Rodger Rabbit)

Quote, originally posted by Rodger Rabbit »
Hopefully this will be an easier question than some of the others.
I used to race my 94 Jetta in the FSP classification but my 07 Rabbit is listed in H class stock. Right now it is stock, and I can't find the Rabbit listed anywhere else in the classivication pages.
I would assume that in a couple months, after my upgrades I would fall back into the FSP, even though the Rabbit is not an F class stock car? There is no HSP classification, and don't want to look like a complete fool walking out there and not knowing where to race.
I am also tempted to go ahead and start competing in the FSP class to get prepared for when I will actully become competitive.
Thanks for any help, this thread has been very helpfull so far.

It depends on what you plan to do to the car. You may be able to just run STS. And yes, you would probably be in FSP.
 
#40 ·
Re: The Autocross Information Thread (fast, Jr.)

Bold classes are classes that are applicable to VW.
Audi folks already know where they belong.
Levels of prep:
Stock -=> Street Touring -=> Street Prepared -=> Prepared -=> Modified
Stock: SS AS BS CS DS ES FS GS HS
Touring: STS, STX, STU
Street Prepared: ASP BSP CSP DSP ESP FSP
Prepared: AP BP CP DP EP FP

Clarification: You do not add a "Street Prepared" to your stock class if you want to move up to a Street Prepared class.
An HStock car cannot go to "H Street Prepared" since there is not such thing.
It is your responsibility to find and properly class your car.

DS: 1K R32, 1J R32
Other DS: Integra Type R, Subaru WRX
GS: 1K GLI, 1K GTI, 1K Jetta 2.0T, 1J Jetta 1.8T, Wagon 1.8T, Corrado VR6, Corrado G60, Scirocco 16V, Golf/GTI/Jetta 16V, 1J VR6 Jetta/Golf/GTI, , Passat V6, any 1.8T not otherwise classified.
Other GS: 2007 Mini Cooper S, Focus SVT, Celica GT-S
HS: 1K Jetta 2.5, 1K Rabbit 2.5, Jetta III 2.0, GTI 2.0, Golf 2.0, 8V Scirocco, Beetle 2.0, Beetle 2.5, Fox, 8V Golf, 8V Rabbit, Ghia, Dasher, Quantum, Jetta TDI, Passat TDI, Golf TDI, Beetle TDI
Other HS: Mazda 3, Mini Cooper, B14 Sentra SE-R, Integra
DSP: 1K 2.0T, 1K 2.5L, 1J 1.8T, Corrado, 16V Scirocco, 1J VR6, MKIII VR6, R32, Turbo Beetle
Other DSP: BMW 325, AE86 Corolla
FSP: Beetle, Fox, 8V Golf & Jetta, 8V Golf Jetta Rabbit Pickup Scirocco, Ghia, TDI, 85-92 Cabriolet, Dasher, Quantum, 85-92 Golf Jetta Cabrio
Popular FSP: Scirocco
SM: All Models Eligible
Popular SM: BMW M3
SM2: All Models Eligible
Popular SM2: Corvette
XP: All Models Eligible
EP:MK1 Rabbits, MK1 Jettas, Scirocco
(Thank you Trevor Beck [TBeck])
Popular EP: Rabbit
Examples:
2006 GLI with coilovers and LSD
Can run in STX on street tires, OR DSP on R-Compounds + ability to update backdate.
2006 Rabbit 2.5 with coilovers
Can run in STS, OR DSP with R-Compounds + ability to update backdate.
1995 Jetta 2.0L with shocks and springs
Must run in STS as the Springs bump it out of HStock
2000 Golf 2.0 with Neuspeed Supercharger
SM, SM2 or XP
1984 Jetta with a Peloquin and 2.0 Swap and Full Race Slicks (no DOT approval)
EP or XP
1995 GTI with a Honda K20 engine swap
XP


Modified by OGSN0 at 3:26 PM 12-11-2007
 
#42 ·
Re: (roadster363)

So you are in Manila huh? I thought just driving on the streets there was like a daily AutoX from what I have heard LOL. My GF is from Cebu, then Davao.
Back in the 80's I worked for Toyota dealers for many years. I remember getting the Toyota Motorsport magazines back then. It was mostly rally coverage, but I always remember in the back with the road racing section were always a lot of pictures of Starlets racing in Asia. But those Starlets were way different than the onese sold here in the USA. And I would imagine with TRD support for them, and not much for you from VW, you have your work cut out for you to be competitive. Well good luck, and Malagayan Pasko!
As for the list of classes up above, I am not too sure what is meant by 1K or 1J??? I have a 2006 GTI, but it is an early made MKV GTI with the DSG trans and 2.0T. But from trying to read your desription, I am confused where I would be placed = GS or HS?
And yes, I am an old timer at AutoX (since 74), but I have been away from the sport for over a year now since I moved to a different state, so lost track of what class I would be in currently. Got back into playing paintball more these days
 
#43 ·
driving in manila is such a bore because the traffic has worsened over the years...i got my miata from davao...the starlet's here really do have the TRD support they need...there is an abundance of twinside carb engines...well my miata still has a stock engine.i just play around with the suspension. right now i have bilstein shocks and RS*R springs because my miata is also daily driven and with the road conditions here,it's as if i'm riding with no shock absorbers at all!LOL
 
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