(Stolen from Sport-Touring.net):
Basics of Motorcycle Carburetor Operation
The basic secret of carb function is that inside each carb are thousands of tiny gnomes; each with a small bucket. As you open the
throttle, more of these gnomes are allowed out of their house and into the float bowl, where they fill the buckets and climb up the carb's passages to the intake, where they empty their buckets into the air stream.
But, if you don't ride the bike for a while, bad things can happen.
Tiny bats take up residence in the chambers of the carb, and before
long the passages are plugged up with guano. This creates a gnome
traffic jam, and so not enough bucketfuls of fuel can get to the
engine. If it gets bad enough, the gnomes simply give up and go take a nap. The engine won't run at all at this point. Sometimes you'll hhave a single dedicated gnome still on the job, which is why the bike
will occasionally fire as the gnome tosses his lone bucket load down
the intake.
There has been some research into using tiny dwarves in modern carbs. The advantage is that unlike gnomes, dwarves are miners and can often re-open a clogged passage. Unfortunately, dwarves have a natural fear of earthquakes, as any miner should. In recent tests, the engine vibrations caused the dwarves to evacuate the Harley Davidson test vehicle and make a beeline for the nearest BMW dealership. Sadly, BMW's are fuel injected and so the poor dwarves met an unfortunate end in the rollers of a Bosch fuel pump.
Other carb problems can also occur. If the level of fuel in the float bowl rises too high, it will wipe out the poorer gnome housing in the lower parts of the carb. The more affluent gnomes build their homes in the diaphragm chamber, and so are unaffected. This is why the bike is said to be "running rich".
If the fuel bowl level drops, then the gnomes have to walk farther to
get a bucketful of fuel. This means less fuel gets to the engine.
Because the gnomes get quite a workout from this additional distance,
this condition is known as "running lean".
The use of the device known only as the 'choke' has finally been
banned by PETG (People for the Ethical Treatment of Gnomes) and
replaced by a new carb circuit that simply allows more gnomes to carry
fuel at once when the engine needs to start or warm up. In the
interests of decorum, I prefer not to explain how the 'choke'
operated. You would rather not know anyway.
So, that's how a carburetor works. You may wish to join us here next
week for basics of electricity, or "How your bike creates cold fusion
inside the stator, and why the government doesn't want you to know
about it."
Modified by GTaye at 4:59 PM 9-8-2004
http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Later,
Thomas
What other carbs can be used? Some mikunis or delltoros? And what size? Should they be around the 40-45mm range and side drafts?
16v's require sidedrafts, 8v's require downdrafts. typical carbs used on VW's are either Weber's or Dellorto's. a lot of people reccommend the Webers because you can still get parts for them, and I would agree with that statement. I haven't seen any carbs much bigger than the range of 40-45mm.
I used the Dellorto's, and was really impressed with them.
16v's require sidedrafts, 8v's require downdrafts. typical carbs used on VW's are either Weber's or Dellorto's. a lot of people reccommend the Webers because you can still get parts for them, and I would agree with that statement. I haven't seen any carbs much bigger than the range of 40-45mm.
I used the Dellorto's, and was really impressed with them.
sent im http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
Just a correction, 8V's can use sidedrafts just like 16V's. Downdrafts are usually used in factory carb type installations. for performance sidedrafts are the way to go when carbs are concerned on a watercooled VW motor
Just a correction, 8V's can use sidedrafts just like 16V's. Downdrafts are usually used in factory carb type installations. for performance sidedrafts are the way to go when carbs are concerned on a watercooled VW motor
for an 8v to use a sidedraft setup, wouldn't you be talking about a x-flow motor where the intake is on the front and the exhaust is on the back? otherwise, if you were mounting carbs on a rear-mounted intake setup, you would have to fab up a manifold so that the carbs would be laying flat.
if the sidedraft carbs aren't sitting level, the fuel would flow down the venturis incorrectly.
Many manifolds exist for counterflow 8v heads and have been used for years. Also, sidedrafts can function properly at a maximum angle of 7 degrees above horizontal.
Many manifolds exist for counterflow 8v heads and have been used for years. Also, sidedrafts can function properly at a maximum angle of 7 degrees above horizontal.
Yup, I've got a set of Dellorto sidedrafts on my Race rabbit with a counterflow 8V. If you're ever up in Corvallis you're welcome to take a look.
when you guys say that you keep the intank pump as well are you:
1- using only the oem intank pump?
2- Using the carter pump and the intank (wired up and pumping)
3- Using the carter pump only and just leavign the intank pump in the tank and using it as a pickup only for the carter?
Also on aside note about msd, i have a 6al box, can i either
1- use my factory digifant dist. with the icm as pictured in this thread
2- use and older vacuum advance distributer and wire it straight up to the msd box?
thanks Andy
when you guys say that you keep the intank pump as well are you:
1- using only the oem intank pump?
2- Using the carter pump and the intank (wired up and pumping)
3- Using the carter pump only and just leavign the intank pump in the tank and using it as a pickup only for the carter?
Also on aside note about msd, i have a 6al box, can i either
1- use my factory digifant dist. with the icm as pictured in this thread
2- use and older vacuum advance distributer and wire it straight up to the msd box?
thanks Andy
2/3 are the same but people have done all those fuel configurations with success (in conjunction with a regulator).
If using the stock distributor, the icm only amplifies the signal from the hall effect, allowing a timing comupter (e.g. MSD PN 8980) to deliver an advance curve.
If using the stock distributor, the icm only amplifies the signal from the hall effect, allowing a timing comupter (e.g. MSD PN 8980) to deliver an advance curve.
do you think the 8980 would be the best bet? i liked the idea of the adjustable timing controller pn 8680 (knob on the dash) but does it deliver a curve as well or just a straight adjustment?
would the programable timing controller (pn 8981) be of any benifit over the fixed curve?
but would a vacuum advance dist. provide an equivlant curve?
What throttle cable is used when running dcoe on a counterflow 8v?
I'm guessing stock carbuerated throttle cable?
Anyone have a good source for the metal air cleaners for a dcoe setup?
What throttle cable is used when running dcoe on a counterflow 8v?
I'm guessing stock carbuerated throttle cable?
Anyone have a good source for the metal air cleaners for a dcoe setup?
WOW...good info.....well im about to jump feet 1st into the carb world.....i have put a 8v together with a set of solex carbs what would i need to know if i pulled my stock 83 rabbit motor and put this built 8v in??? do i need diff. fuel pump....ect.??? im me please if you have the time and thanks agian guys for all the info
Luke
do you think the 8980 would be the best bet? i liked the idea of the adjustable timing controller pn 8680 (knob on the dash) but does it deliver a curve as well or just a straight adjustment?
would the programable timing controller (pn 8981) be of any benifit over the fixed curve?
but would a vacuum advance dist. provide an equivlant curve?
All the MSD boxes are fairly equivilent, adjustablity within 20 degrees of your mechanically set full advance. The programmable (8981) merely allows adjustment in the slope of advance and initial timing within, again, 20 degrees of your mechanical set.
Digging around on here, the net, or in a Bentley you should find the curve of an OEM vaccum advance or mechanical advance distributor. I know people have used one from a Saab as well.
If you're serious about dialing in your own ignition curve, the best route would be a distributorless ignition system like Electromotive for example.
Based on this and your budget you should be able to settle on something http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
So much great info my head is spinning, trying to read as much as possible and have as few questions as possible. Now I'm in need of beer and it's raining ice outside.
Ok, question.
It says the carter feul pump needs no fuel pressure regulator but then it suggests one? Which is it, no fpr or with fpr?
I would suggest one, people say its not needed because the max psi rating of the carter pump should not hurt most carbs, but if yould always like constant Fuel pressure, id get a regulator
I am not running a regulator with my set-up, but will be adding one to see if it works.
btw: 1.8 12.5 comp, 270cam, holley 350 with #57 jets, carter pump.
I will update and let you know if anything gets better or worse. http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif
ok guys help me out. Im runnin and 8v with a 2 barrol down draft weber. I have everything hooked up but the throttle cable can i see some pics of how you guys have hooked yours up? also anyone want a wiring question that is killin me>? thanks for your time
the wire goes to 12v key on. (off the coil) if you wnat to see a pic. look in my sig. the one with the webber for sale. that should have a pic of my old one installed.i know it sounds getto, but i used some big nuts as spacers. if you wnat some better pics, let my know.
ya if you could post another pic or 2 of the set up that would be great and thanks for the choke question. now if I could get the damn thing to turn over i'd throw a party!!!
Thanks for the info. I have a 91 and am trying to eliminate the Motronic harness and ECM. Do any years have ICM's that plug directly into the distributor? I want to keep it as simple as possible.
any answers?
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