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    1. 05-16-2017 07:40 PM #1
      Replaced cam about 30k ago. Everything running fine until recently. Started with black smoke for a week or two. Changed oil and then white smoke. Removed intake, egr, erg housing. Cleaned them out. Replaced vacuum lines. Now its smoking more but is more of a blue smoke from start up. Once warmed up around 190 degree is smoke white a ton. Not sure what to check, looks like there is some oil around my drivers side of the engine, maybe the head gasket is leaking oil but I'm not sure. Any ideas? Only codes were for glow plug circuit and EGR.

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    3. Member RoseBud68's Avatar
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      05-16-2017 10:21 PM #2
      Quote Originally Posted by oscar563 View Post
      VW's are like hot models...high maintenance but I just don't care
      Quote Originally Posted by jearp View Post
      zach is troll master

    4. 05-17-2017 07:13 PM #3
      Nothing. Smoke has changed to more of a blue tint until it really gets going.

    5. Member Rockerchick's Avatar
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      05-18-2017 12:03 PM #4
      Blue smoke is oil. Turbo maybe?

      Sent from my VS988 using Tapatalk
      Quote Originally Posted by TM87 View Post
      VW-making mechanics out of owners since 1957.
      The project - '84 Jetta 1.6TD
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      Hers - '03 BMP 20thAE GTI
      His - '16 GLI SE

    6. 05-28-2017 04:37 PM #5
      Well code for egr valve over boost condition was on there Ive had it come and go. Also low boost I believe was on there as well. Trying to perform a compression test at the moment as I do have a build up of gunk/oil on my driver side. Not sure if from valve cover though. My tester only goes to 300 and I know my engine should read above yhat. Tried in cyl 1 and it maxed out and now my tester won't hold a number just flips up with key and back down quickly. Maybe broke it. Will get another tester.

      If thats not it I'm making a block off plate for my egr valve. If problem goes away I have a egr or wiring problem (for the millionth time, **** these harnesses). If the problem persists I likely have a turbo issue or ? Any ideas besides turbo or how to test turbo?

      I replaced what vacuum lines I could find up top and the one that goes to the metal canister near the fire wall to the metal line. My new lines were 3mm. 5mm didn't seem to fit right enough on any nipple but maybe 2 short sections. Would smaller lines affect anything?

      Note on start up at idle for 5 mins there is no smoke. None. Start to drive and temp gauge hasn't moved and I'll get bluish smoke. Once I get to about halfway to warm up temp (190) I start to get smoke. Once I get to 190 I smoke a lot. If I'm just cruising with steady pedal input some smoke. Left off and brake to turn snd with reapplying the gas lots of smoke. Not sure if that helps with diagnosing but maybe it'll help someone else with the same issue.

    7. 05-28-2017 06:37 PM #6
      Compression test complete. Rented a tester from AutoZone. Only goes to 300 but it didn't blow out and went well past 300. So pistons/cylinders are in great shape.

      Noticed that it really doesnt smoke until I'm warmed up, maybe thermostat or another valve thing opening at that temp and causing it? Just a shot in the dark. Even in park warmed up I can rev it and very little to no smoke. So engine has to be under load. So I'm leaning towards egr or turbo? Other ideas?

      Off to make a block off plate...

    8. 05-29-2017 07:14 PM #7
      Im assuming if I unplug my egr it will stay closed. I did that and have the same problem. Does this rule out the egr? How fast does that valve actually move? If it does rule out my egr, what am I looking at? A turbo? any vacuum lines to check? Something else?

    9. 05-31-2017 08:59 PM #8
      Sounds like the turbo unfortunately VCDS under block 11 will give you an idea of boost values, know mine started smoking and it wasn't soon after that it started trying to eat the housing (stock tune whole life of car). Best to pull the intake at the turbo and check for play, both side to side and in and out. A little play side to side is alright, in/out is not.

      VNT17s are reasonably priced and make some serious power with a tune Pretty well double your torque output with a turbo, clutch, and nozzles.
      Last edited by Owain@MaloneTuning; 05-31-2017 at 09:04 PM.

    10. 06-07-2017 09:26 PM #9
      Well I check the metal circle thing (forgot the name) with the rod below it that I believe works with the turbo - At idle with someone pushing the gas the rod did not move. How do I further test this?

    11. 06-08-2017 06:17 PM #10
      Could start by posting what vehicle you're driving. VCDS under block 11 will show boost control.

    12. 06-09-2017 01:23 PM #11
      Whoops! 06 Jetta BRM engine.

      Had some press the gas while I looked at the rod below it. The rod did not move. Going to follow this and see if attaching a vacuum to it will move the rod.
      Actuator rod moves with my brake bleeder pump connected. I replaced the lines but may have mixed them up. Or does it not matter which port? Checked voltage between actuator pins 1 and 3 and have 5V (unplugged). Checked resistance at N75 (unplugged) 15.8ohms - starts low and climbs to 15.8. Checked voltage at N75 connector (unplugged) and have battery voltage flash then drops to about 8-9V.

      My vacuum lines are - Actuator to middle nipple on N75. Bottom nipple on N75 to airbox. Not sure where others should go, anyone have a simple diagram? I found one but it doesn't seem to match with my vehicle.

    13. 06-11-2017 09:29 AM #12
      Checked my vacuum lines. They are as follows, hopefully someone can confirm if this is correct:

      N75 (mounted on firewall by brake booster)
      top nipple:Airbox, middle nipple: turbo actuator, bottom nipple:goes to the engine valve cover with a split between. Split goes to bottom nipple of the N18? (lays horizontal behind valve cover/driver side), and to a black and white check valve that connects to something on the drivers side of the engine.

      N18? - second nipple connects to a metal tube that I can't see where it goes.

      So any one know where the metal line continues, other lines to check/replace, and if that black and white check valve should have the black side facing the think on the engine block? found it white side towards engine but read some where that is incorrect. Flipped it around and seem to be getting a more black/grey smoke mainly.

      Cleared all codes and test drove up and down the block. P2413 did not get cleared and P2196 came up after the short test drive. P2413 is for recirculation of exhaust gases and P2196 is o2 sensor stuck rich or something. Ideas?

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