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Mk2 Problems/Repairs

9K views 27 replies 20 participants last post by  BeavenX5 
#1 ·
Ok, I've been absent for a while, but I think it's time for folks to list the repairs they've had to do to their Mk2's. The warranty on these things sucks, the Mk3 TT and TTS are available, and with the new TTRS on the horizon it's time to consider something new.

My TTRS had a rear magnetic shock fail somewhere around 25K miles. Just replaced both of them last month (around 28K miles).

I also just replaced the N205 valve...I'll post that story in another thread.

Anyway, I still love this car...but it's starting to be a nuisance.
 
#6 · (Edited)
2013 TT RS: 58K miles, 25+ track days later I've replaced the EVAP Purge Valves (N80) assembly as far as unplanned repairs are concerned, driver side rear MagneRide shock appears to be weeping

Wife's 2008 TT 3.2 6MT: 68K miles, ~10-12 track days, replaced oil cooler and coolant expansion tank, a/c just went (need to get that taken care of), flywheel "failed" 3 years ago so replaced that and clutch while in there, more recently, getting an "Adaptive Light Defective" error on MFA
 
#10 ·
I have a 2008 3.2 6 speed with a turbo kit and 175 k.

- Original suspension, was leaking pretty bad at the back changed all 4 to PSS10's at 175k. I guess I could have kept them in longer.
- Bose Amp corroded at like 100k, replaced the chip. Still was a bit off, ended up getting a new amp.
- Rear brake ground burned out at around 150k. Cleaned up the wiring and bought a new tail bulb holder.
- Timing chain loud (stretch), clutch slipping at launch. Both done with a new dual mass flywheel (that was done as well) at around 150K
- Air Conditioner pressure switch died at 175K replaced.
- Tilt switch in seat died at 170k replaced switch.
- 02 sensor (primary) heating element died, replaced at 102k.
- motor mounts sloppy at around 150k, replaced with 034 density mounts.
- fans died, replaced at 173k.

Turbo kit was installed at 170k and hasn't caused any additional failures.

If you look at the r32 list of things that fail, I've pretty much had them all. I'd say the car has been good for the amount the lapping I do (other than the amp and suspension).
 
#11 ·
09 TTS - purchased at 66k currently has ~78k

- A few problems from the build that APR did...
o Resealing of cam girdle, was leaking because of poor installation
o Replacing oil cooler and oil filter housing gaskets because of straight water being used for coolant (froze in winter and blew out.. lucky that was all the damage that was done)
o TIG welded V-band exhaust flanges onto down pipe and main run and added flex coupler because exhaust mods completed left exhaust too short and vibration/tension was causing clamps to fail creating massive exhaust leak at down pipe.
o rebuilt TTRS brake calipers because of excessive wear (replaced torn piston boots and seals, refurbished caliper pistons, new wear sensor) and replaced both front and rear rotors with OEM front TTRS and aftermarket rear discs.

- Other issues
o Manifold O2 sensor failed and needed to be replaced
o A/C compressor failed, replaced A/C compressor as well as expansion valve, dryer, and condenser to ensure no further issues
o Replaced Cam adjuster and cartridge seals due to excessive wear (found during girdle seal repair)

- Issues on horizon
o Passenger door lock module is on the fritz. Will occasionally not lock with either the key FOB or the interior lock switch. (Root cause could be failure in door wiring harness or motors failing in lock module)
o Driver side door handle occasionally will not open door, which requires me to use the key to open window and use interior handle to open. This problem has not been an issue since last year and the cable may have unwound on it's own.(Root cause appears to be bound release cable attachment from door handle and lock module)
o mag-ride suspension at all four corners are giving out. Will need all new suspension soon. Suspect because of track use.
o Driver side door seal is worn, causes high pitch whistling at speeds of 70mph and faster. Need new seal.
 
#12 ·
2012 TT with 60,000 miles and had a piston/ring failure. I suspect it's related to this problem (http://www.oilconsumptionsettlement.com) as it's pretty much the same TFSI engine. But Audi of America refuses to do anything about it as my car is "modified". Never tuned my car or made any performance modifications, but I did put a catch can on the car after the warranty expired. The catch can showed the problem, as it would fill up with oil within a week of normal driving. I suspect many people are driving around with issues that are being hidden by the stock PCV system.
 
#13 ·
2008 mk2 tt 3.2 manual 110k miles

other than oil and tires,
ive changed all my brakes and rotors once (i think 3-4 years ago)
new clutch, fuel pump, serpentine belt (within last 2 years)

im currently having suspension problems :(

i have mag ride and one of them has failed on me a week ago along with other problems coming from the front. still waiting for mechanic to fill me in with full details.
i installed lowering springs probably 4-5 years ago and i think that has messed with the mag ride suspension. i should of got rid of the mag ride and went for coilovers when i bought the springs...
 
#14 ·
Ok, there's a few annoying things there...grrr...

I just had my passenger side Xenon Headlight fizzle out at less than 29K miles. That seems premature to me.
 
#15 ·
Haven't posted in this forum for a long time as I've mostly been using my GTS. TTRS has an occasional misfire I'm needing to diagnose. I changed the coilpacks and spark plugs, which didn't resolve things. Car has been great otherwise.
 
#17 ·
2012 TTRS 48k miles

Two blown mag ride shocks, broken valve in sports exhaust, hood release lever sheared off. I'm sure I'm forgetting something.

DrDomm: how big a deal was the rear shock? gonna try to do that when the weather is warmer.
I didn't attempt to do the shocks. I paid to have a shop do them.
 
#19 · (Edited)
I have had all 4 magnarides go out. The 2 in the rear at about 45k and the 2 in the front at about 65k

I also had a screw back out of the intake manifold and drop into my engine. So, the entire engine had to be replaced. (there is a thread on this forum about it..) Since my car was tuned, they refused to cover it. $27k bill. I ended up paying 1/3 of it but got a brand new engine (old one was at 47k), new turbo, new clutch. I ended up selling the old engine to 034, so out of my pocket it cost me about $5k. But if the dealership offered me a new engine, turbo and clutch for $5k installed, that would actually be a really good deal.. so I can not complain too much.
 
#21 ·
Melting Rear Taillight Connector

My only problem, I'm sure others must have had this, is the undersized ground (return) wire. Had to run another wire in parallel from the inside of the light and around the connector in order to fix it for good. 9 years, 65k miles and I'll take that.
 
#24 ·
My only problem, I'm sure others must have had this, is the undersized ground (return) wire. Had to run another wire in parallel from the inside of the light and around the connector in order to fix it for good. 9 years, 65k miles and I'll take that.
I just had this problem, 2013 TT RS with 49,8xx on the clock when it occurred (passenger side tail light). Car was out of warranty period by date, not by miles, but the dealer fixed it for free as an act of good will. People have documented this issue going as far back as 2010, it's complete crap that Audi hasn't addressed it.
 
#27 ·
Windshield Leak

Less than 36K miles and the top seal on the windshield started leaking...drivers side, just to the left of the mirror.:rolleyes:
 
#28 ·
2008 base 2.0 DSG

I have owned this car since 2011 when I imported it from the US and it has been a pretty solid car for me. Never winter driven. 110,000 KM

The previous owner only had problems with the flap sensor on the convertible roof that were changed twice under warranty. I am still having problems with the roof and have to reset it ever 10 days with the VAG COM. Takes 5 minutes but it is very annoying. The error codes are right flap sensor, switch position and lock sensor. All three relating to the same faulty electronic sensors of the roof. Cheaper to reset every 10 days than to change yearly at $800 each time.

Other than that, I only had to change the O2 sensors.
 
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