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    1. Senior Member dubdaze68's Avatar
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      04-18-2016 02:05 PM #101
      Quote Originally Posted by OptimusGlen View Post
      Today I made a completely random purchase. Picked up a pair of Heuer stopwatches like this one. I'll get them serviced and get a mounting plaque machined up. I'll be the first to say that it'll be purely aesthetic, since I don't do any timed racing, but I think they will suit the dash nicely.



      These use the Heuer 7700 movement, all mechanical for the uninitiated. Nothing special really, you can usually find one or two on eBay for pretty cheap if you're ok with some wear.

      Since I wont have a radio, I'll mount them there. I will have the small AUX-IN port and a volume knob, but those don't take up much space.
      I think I just climaxed.
      DCIVW
      CE.

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    3. Member OptimusGlen's Avatar
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      04-19-2016 09:52 AM #102
      Quote Originally Posted by dubdaze68 View Post
      I think I just climaxed.
      Easy there... big fella.


      Rear suspension bushings came in yesterday, along with a slide hammer and the two stopwatches.

      The face of one looks yellow, but I believe it's just the crystal. Both work, but really need a teardown and cleaning/oiling. I've dabbled in mechanical watch disassembly before, so I can handle it especially since it's manual wind and doesn't have a lot of functions, but waiting to hear back on a few quotes before I do anything. Most likely the charge to have one serviced will be several times more than what these sell for, so this may become a DIY later on.






      As you all remember, the front drivers side fender was bashed in a bit.


      This will get fixed properly once I reach the bodywork phase of the project, for now I wanted to be able to mount a bumper and a new turn signal, so I ordered a slide hammer with a various selection of hooks to get this part of the fender a bit more in-line. Far from perfect, but for now it's functional. As a reminder, I am hoping to have this running and driving at some point this summer, possibly fall. And then next winter I'll replace some metal and do any other body work that's needed.



      You can also see the newer bumper. This one has some smaller dents I'll need to smooth out, but overall it's in great shape. One item that I'm debating about now is bumper finish/color. Both front and rear bumpers were factory painted on this car. The rear bumper is in good shape. So what I'm debating:

      A: Buy another rear bumper, but get a chrome one to match.


      B: Sand/prime/paint the front bumper orange, to mimic the original.


      C: Sand/prime/paint both bumpers satin black.

      (I'll update with a pic of a standard 914 with black bumpers as soon as I can find one)

      Leaning towards B, because it's unique and original to the car. I like the look as well.

      "A" would be cool, and safe because just about all 914's you see are chrome bumpered and they pull it off well. This means spending a lot of cash though, and re-chroming the rear would make it stand out against the patina of the front chrome.

      C is an option I was considering, but the more I look at it the more I think it makes the car look like the later models with the big rubber bumpers, and I don't like that look. A good example could sway my mind though.


      In other news, I pulled out the fresh air box and blower, emptied it of all of it's leaves and mouse stuff, and just deep cleaned the whole area. It was like a mouse diarrhea factory on the sheet metal around the airbox. They must have had an external food source because further rubber/wire examination found no chew marks.
      Last edited by OptimusGlen; 04-19-2016 at 09:54 AM.

    4. Member mfumbesi's Avatar
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      04-19-2016 10:16 AM #103
      Flew through the whole thread.
      Great buy.
      Thank You for sharing.

    5. Member sunofernest's Avatar
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      04-19-2016 02:18 PM #104
      I prefer the chrome bumpers but body color doesn't look bad with the foglight surrounds, maybe keep those chrome?

      Last edited by sunofernest; 04-19-2016 at 02:33 PM.

    6. Member Dravenport's Avatar
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      04-19-2016 03:57 PM #105
      black bumper!
      Quote Originally Posted by westopher View Post
      If you want to spend a bunch of money for something to look at, buy a painting. I'll happily drive my car til its worth nothing.
      Quote Originally Posted by JalopnikMatt View Post
      Since my presence has been requested, Beetlejuice-style, I'll address the current controversy:
      Yes, the Prius is the greatest car ever made.

    7. Senior Member
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      04-19-2016 05:07 PM #106
      I think I like the body colored bumpers best. It's unusual, it 'works' visually, it's original to the car and a LOT less expensive than rechroming. I'd call that a trifecta... Errrr quadfecta?
      Quote Originally Posted by Boyz in da Park
      Proletariat, Bourgeoise - Everybody smellin' my potpourri...

    8. Senior Member
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      04-19-2016 05:36 PM #107
      Body color bumpers with chrome fog light grilles. I think with the orange/black, it accentuates the fairly retro-futuristic look of the car.

    9. Senior Member dubdaze68's Avatar
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      04-20-2016 10:04 AM #108
      I think the orange on orange is a bit too much. It visually raises the front end quite a bit.

      Dare I say, something a bit more period correct, and Porsche racing style?



      I also really like the black on black.
      DCIVW
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    10. Member OptimusGlen's Avatar
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      04-20-2016 10:24 AM #109
      Man those 914GT cars are cool. If I was going down the route of welding on flares I would probably paint the bumper to mimic one of those. But, if we're talking about period correct... my car would have the orange bumper like I posted above, only with black non-foglight grills. Since that's how it most likely came from the factory, they didn't color match non-fog grills I don't think.

      Oddly enough, the most factory correct option is also the cheapest option, which makes it very appealing. I already have two black non-foglight grills.

      If I wanted fogs I do have one chrome foglight grill for the drivers side, I could probably find a passenger side without too much trouble, then I'd need to find a set of fogs and the switch. The spare harness I have has the full foglight circuitry.

      I'd like to send in for a PCOA (Porsche Certificate of Authenticity) to really see the buildsheet etc. Maybe it just doesn't make a difference though.

    11. Moderator silverspeedbuggy's Avatar
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      04-20-2016 10:31 AM #110
      Definitely B



      The other options are good, but the body color bumper 'smooths out' the look of the car while the other two create visual 'blocks' of color that detract from the form of the car. The body color makes the entire design look more cohesive and less choppy. (My $.02)

    12. Senior Member .LSinLV.'s Avatar
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      04-20-2016 10:38 AM #111
      Quote Originally Posted by OptimusGlen View Post
      Man those 914GT cars are cool. If I was going down the route of welding on flares I would probably paint the bumper to mimic one of those. But, if we're talking about period correct... my car would have the orange bumper like I posted above, only with black non-foglight grills. Since that's how it most likely came from the factory, they didn't color match non-fog grills I don't think.

      Oddly enough, the most factory correct option is also the cheapest option, which makes it very appealing. I already have two black non-foglight grills.

      If I wanted fogs I do have one chrome foglight grill for the drivers side, I could probably find a passenger side without too much trouble, then I'd need to find a set of fogs and the switch. The spare harness I have has the full foglight circuitry.

      I'd like to send in for a PCOA (Porsche Certificate of Authenticity) to really see the buildsheet etc. Maybe it just doesn't make a difference though.
      I may have a spare grill....I'll have to look through my boxes of spares.
      Larry
      Demokratikally Elekted Minister of Shekels and Cuddles Therapist of the Independent People's Republik of Offtopikstan
      Quote Originally Posted by atomicalex View Post
      The boobs. I am waiting on the boobs here.

    13. Member OptimusGlen's Avatar
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      04-24-2016 02:06 PM #112
      Radio delete panel complete

      .

    14. Member OptimusGlen's Avatar
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      04-28-2016 07:57 AM #113
      Great news! I got the title in the mail.

      On my last project, a 1965 Ford F100 that I bought for $1000, 2 months after i transferred the title I received a letter from the state saying that they thought it should have been worth $9,600. They said I needed to pay sales tax on $9600, or submit an estimate from a legitimate repair shop showing that the truck needed repairs that would offset that price. It was a huge pain, but I put together a parts list with prices and retailers on a spreadsheet, found a shop that would actually do an estimate even though there was zero chance I would be having them do any work, and submitted it all with some pictures of the purchased state. There was about 11-12k worth of parts/labor quoted. 2 months after that I finally received the title in the mail, I guess it was sufficient proof for them.

      With the Porsche I was sure it would happen again since the price was so low but I guess $1100 seemed fair to them. haha

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      04-28-2016 09:21 AM #114
      ^ ha ha or they learned their lesson the first time and were like "Here he goes buying another lawn ornament "

    16. Senior Member
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      04-28-2016 09:32 AM #115
      Quote Originally Posted by OptimusGlen View Post
      Great news! I got the title in the mail.
      Wait, you said it wrong...

      Quote Originally Posted by Professor Farnsworth
      Good news, everyone!


      Ahhhh, that's better.


      Congrats! Now, how close are you to driving it??
      Quote Originally Posted by Boyz in da Park
      Proletariat, Bourgeoise - Everybody smellin' my potpourri...

    17. Member OptimusGlen's Avatar
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      04-28-2016 11:25 AM #116
      Quote Originally Posted by Air and water do mix View Post
      Congrats! Now, how close are you to driving it??
      Haha, not close. Once the interior is buttoned up, and wiring fixed, and the gas tank installed again, and new fuel lines run, then I'll put it up on stands and drop the engine. I want to go through the engine before I try to start it up, to try and avoid any possibility of irreversible damage, and to clean/inspect and see exactly what I have here. Hope to have it all back together and running mid summer, but who knows for sure.

    18. Senior Member
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      04-28-2016 11:39 AM #117
      Quote Originally Posted by OptimusGlen View Post
      Haha, not close. Once the interior is buttoned up, and wiring fixed, and the gas tank installed again, and new fuel lines run, then I'll put it up on stands and drop the engine. I want to go through the engine before I try to start it up, to try and avoid any possibility of irreversible damage, and to clean/inspect and see exactly what I have here. Hope to have it all back together and running mid summer, but who knows for sure.
      If you ever want to start a dry engine, I'd do what Barry's engine builder mentioned. Pressurize the oil system, rotate 1/4 turn, pressurize again, rotate 1/4 turn... This fully lubricates the bearings so they're not at all dry upon startup. Personally I'd do that and add perhaps 1cc of oil through each spark plug hole and fire away after verifying spark, fuel and a full sump... A full engine rebuild is fine, too.

      The good news? Those engines really aren't more complicated than a Beetle engine, though they're substantially different in detail. What that boils down to is that yes, they're simple to bolt together, but they're very, very precise engines, too. Make sure all clearances and measurements are correct, as things like too little crank end play, too much side play on the rods, tight ring gaps* or loose valve guides can spell disaster, or at least premature wear.

      *Remember, air cooled engines deal with much wider temp ranges than water coolers.
      Quote Originally Posted by Boyz in da Park
      Proletariat, Bourgeoise - Everybody smellin' my potpourri...

    19. Senior Member .LSinLV.'s Avatar
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      04-28-2016 11:42 AM #118
      Quote Originally Posted by OptimusGlen View Post
      Haha, not close. Once the interior is buttoned up, and wiring fixed, and the gas tank installed again, and new fuel lines run, then I'll put it up on stands and drop the engine. I want to go through the engine before I try to start it up, to try and avoid any possibility of irreversible damage, and to clean/inspect and see exactly what I have here. Hope to have it all back together and running mid summer, but who knows for sure.
      did you run hard lines though the tunnel???
      Larry
      Demokratikally Elekted Minister of Shekels and Cuddles Therapist of the Independent People's Republik of Offtopikstan
      Quote Originally Posted by atomicalex View Post
      The boobs. I am waiting on the boobs here.

    20. Senior Member dubdaze68's Avatar
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      04-28-2016 11:52 AM #119
      Don't Type IV's have all of those little air flaps in the doghouse? Like, you have to make sure all of them are functioning correctly?
      DCIVW
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    21. Senior Member
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      04-28-2016 12:15 PM #120
      Quote Originally Posted by dubdaze68 View Post
      Don't Type IV's have all of those little air flaps in the doghouse? Like, you have to make sure all of them are functioning correctly?
      Absolutely. The thermostat is mechanical and the flaps are controlled by it. On Type I engines (Beetle) 95% of them have been removed and thrown away. I don't think that error is so prolific on Type IVs, but it might be. I've only taken apart a couple of Beetle engines with the cooling system fully intact.

      Imagine an engine starting in cold weather. The pistons are trying to expand from the heat of combustion and the cast iron cylinders are being blasted by cold air. It's a recipe for serious wear on the cylinders/rings.

      It's the job of the thermostat and flaps to shut off the cold air until the engine begins to warm so that everything expands at the proper rate. Sure, if you live in Las Vegas you could probably get away without the thermostat, but even if that's the case leave the flaps in place to help channel air where it's supposed to go. Without them the air bats around under the fan and much of it goes toward the cooler end (base) of the cylinder, since it's all following the path of least resistance.

      the entire system is designed to fail in the open position, whether it's a failure of the thermostat, the return springs for the flaps, or whether the air simply has to push open the flaps because of some other failure.
      Quote Originally Posted by Boyz in da Park
      Proletariat, Bourgeoise - Everybody smellin' my potpourri...

    22. Senior Member .LSinLV.'s Avatar
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      04-28-2016 12:32 PM #121
      Quote Originally Posted by dubdaze68 View Post
      Don't Type IV's have all of those little air flaps in the doghouse? Like, you have to make sure all of them are functioning correctly?
      there are 2 flaps, one on either side. as was stated above there is a mechanical thermostat with a cable and pulley to operate the flaps. I know in the desert SW most people leave them off, as it's never cold enough to need them for warm up, but you definitely want them working when it's at temp or you'll overheat the cylinders.

      Larry
      Demokratikally Elekted Minister of Shekels and Cuddles Therapist of the Independent People's Republik of Offtopikstan
      Quote Originally Posted by atomicalex View Post
      The boobs. I am waiting on the boobs here.

    23. Senior Member dubdaze68's Avatar
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      04-28-2016 01:58 PM #122
      My guess is that this simple item was the cause of death of many an aircooled engine over the years, either through old parts, misdiagnosis, or just failure.
      DCIVW
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    24. Senior Member
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      04-28-2016 02:03 PM #123
      Quote Originally Posted by dubdaze68 View Post
      My guess is that this simple item was the cause of death of many an aircooled engine over the years, either through old parts, misdiagnosis, or just failure.
      Probably not. Every bit of it is designed to fail in the "safe" position. The thermostat is about 2 or 3 times its normal length when it's toasted itself! The bigger problem was all of the missing tinware.
      Quote Originally Posted by Boyz in da Park
      Proletariat, Bourgeoise - Everybody smellin' my potpourri...

    25. Senior Member .LSinLV.'s Avatar
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      04-28-2016 02:07 PM #124
      Quote Originally Posted by Air and water do mix View Post
      Probably not. Every bit of it is designed to fail in the "safe" position. The thermostat is about 2 or 3 times its normal length when it's toasted itself! The bigger problem was all of the missing tinware.
      that and/or damaged/missing fins on the cooling fan......I can't tell you how many Type IV's I've found over the years with fins missing and/or damaged.
      Larry
      Demokratikally Elekted Minister of Shekels and Cuddles Therapist of the Independent People's Republik of Offtopikstan
      Quote Originally Posted by atomicalex View Post
      The boobs. I am waiting on the boobs here.

    26. Senior Member
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      04-28-2016 02:15 PM #125
      Quote Originally Posted by You'reDrunk View Post
      that and/or damaged/missing fins on the cooling fan......I can't tell you how many Type IV's I've found over the years with fins missing and/or damaged.
      Really? Wow. That's not much of an issue on Type 1s. I did see one blow to pieces at really high revs, but that was before people started straightening/welding/balancing cooling fans for extreme high performance use.

      Do you think people simply don't change them out when they build them or do the degrade over time and lose fins?
      Quote Originally Posted by Boyz in da Park
      Proletariat, Bourgeoise - Everybody smellin' my potpourri...

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