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    1. Member OptimusGlen's Avatar
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      09-20-2016 08:45 PM #251
      Thanks for the tips, I'll move forward with no cylinder spacers.

      The heads are stock 1.7 parts so I was basing my calculations off of a general cylinder head combustion chamber measurements for stock heads. Found a real handy calculator online where you can input in all of your numbers and solve for C/R.

      The blueprint is 100% vector. This means I can scale it as big as I want and the lines will remain crisp. I'll be printing a few posters and selling them at the various events I got to over the year. I do need to make some edits beforehand though, as you noted the blue isn't quite right. Additionally I need to add a few center lines.

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    3. Senior Member Air and water do mix's Avatar
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      09-20-2016 09:32 PM #252
      Quote Originally Posted by OptimusGlen View Post
      Thanks for the tips, I'll move forward with no cylinder spacers.

      The heads are stock 1.7 parts so I was basing my calculations off of a general cylinder head combustion chamber measurements for stock heads. Found a real handy calculator online where you can input in all of your numbers and solve for C/R.

      The blueprint is 100% vector. This means I can scale it as big as I want and the lines will remain crisp. I'll be printing a few posters and selling them at the various events I got to over the year. I do need to make some edits beforehand though, as you noted the blue isn't quite right. Additionally I need to add a few center lines.
      Don't worry, I'm well aware of what vector files are. Hmmmmm... Did you do it in Adobe Illustrator, perhaps? Yes, mine is a weeee bit too purple, but it's very close to what we've gotten in the shop. (I'm a large-format printer and the other side of the business does architectural and engineering prints.)

      Be careful, you don't want to depend on what the heads were stock, because if they've been rebuilt (highly likely) then they probably have been flycut and the numbers will be wrong. Like the rockers, it's not a huge deal if you're a bit off when everything is stock, but becomes critical when you bump up the compression, go for more radical cam/ignition timing and rev it higher than stock.
      Quote Originally Posted by Boyz in da Park
      Proletariat, Bourgeoise - Everybody smellin' my potpourri...

    4. Member OptimusGlen's Avatar
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      09-20-2016 10:01 PM #253
      Rock on, I can never tell. Sometimes guys don't understand that 2000 pixel jpg doesn't print the same way a vector image will. hah. I actually use a program called Inkscape. It's Illustrator-esque, but not as user friendly from what I hear, and not as capable.

      I was just reading up about CC'ing heads, difficult because "cc" is too short of a word for most forum searches. But I got the details so I'll be doing that to get an accurate measurement.

    5. Senior Member Air and water do mix's Avatar
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      09-21-2016 10:03 AM #254
      Quote Originally Posted by OptimusGlen View Post
      Rock on, I can never tell. Sometimes guys don't understand that 2000 pixel jpg doesn't print the same way a vector image will. hah. I actually use a program called Inkscape. It's Illustrator-esque, but not as user friendly from what I hear, and not as capable.

      I was just reading up about CC'ing heads, difficult because "cc" is too short of a word for most forum searches. But I got the details so I'll be doing that to get an accurate measurement.
      I loves me some vector, though I print with raster images. It's funny and it makes large files, but I send 150 dpi .tif files to my printer, as I never have font issues, there's no compression and they (almost) always RIP fine and don't crash my machine.


      I'm glad to hear you'll cc the heads. I think it's worthwhile, especially if you're going to give it all she's got (captain). It's not difficult, though sometimes acquiring the right tools is tricky unless you buy a kit. I don't know what you've seen online, but don't forget to seal the edge of the plastic disk with a semi-thin coat of grease. If you don't it'll leak and give an inaccurate measurement.
      Quote Originally Posted by Boyz in da Park
      Proletariat, Bourgeoise - Everybody smellin' my potpourri...

    6. Member OptimusGlen's Avatar
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      09-22-2016 02:59 PM #255
      Heads came in at 52-52.5cc

      I want to remeasure everything (well deck height and head volume anyway) to make sure it's all the same but if my measurements are correct I'll be running 8.6/1 compression. Which I've read is what the stock Euro 2.0s had.

    7. Senior Member Air and water do mix's Avatar
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      09-22-2016 03:11 PM #256
      Quote Originally Posted by OptimusGlen View Post
      Heads came in at 52-52.5cc

      I want to remeasure everything (well deck height and head volume anyway) to make sure it's all the same but if my measurements are correct I'll be running 8.6/1 compression. Which I've read is what the stock Euro 2.0s had.
      Cool! It's nice to actually know, rather than assume, isn't it?

      If I remember correctly, ours had lower compression to deal with the differences in fuel. Exactly how that relates to modern fuel I can't say, since everything is different from how octane is measured to lead content to additives. I'm sure there's some good info online, but the head chamber shape is different enough to a Type I that I wouldn't simply copy/paste the same ratios for it.

      I believe Type IVs would likely run cooler head temps (allowing for more compression) because of the way the exhaust is routed out the bottom. On the Type I it goes to the outboard sides of the head (fore/aft as installed on the engine) instead of straight down and my backyard engineering degree tells me that the area above and underneath the exhaust port has to hang on to more of that heat than the Type IV's more modern layout. By "modern" I mean it's a design that dates to the late '60s, not the 1930s!
      Quote Originally Posted by Boyz in da Park
      Proletariat, Bourgeoise - Everybody smellin' my potpourri...

    8. Member OptimusGlen's Avatar
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      09-26-2016 10:22 AM #257
      I measured the combustion chamber volumes again and got the same results on all 4 pots. Same with deck height. Pistons, cylinders, and heads are bolted on. After I took the pic I also cleaned and assembled the oil pump.

    9. Senior Member .LSinLV.'s Avatar
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      09-26-2016 10:50 AM #258
      did you end up using stock, or a high volume oil pump?
      Larry
      Demokratikally Elekted Minister of Shekels and Cuddles Therapist of the Independent People's Republik of Offtopikstan
      Quote Originally Posted by atomicalex View Post
      The boobs. I am waiting on the boobs here.

    10. Senior Member Air and water do mix's Avatar
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      09-26-2016 11:12 AM #259
      Quote Originally Posted by .LSinLV. View Post
      did you end up using stock, or a high volume oil pump?
      And was it aluminum or cast iron? I don't recommend cast iron. They seem better at first glance, but as the case gets hot the hole expands, leaving a gap for oil to leak back into the case instead of going down the main oil galley. If it didn't have to mate to the case cast iron would be superior.

      Also, make sure the oil pump cover plate is flat. They can wear and you either have to machine/sand them flat or at least rotate them 90º so that oil doesn't leak back to the low pressure side of the pump. I have a Berg pressure relief cover. It's basically a galley back to the low pressure side of the pump and it houses a spring/piston so that if you get too much pressure when it's cold it bleeds it back to the other side.




      Keep pluggin' away at that beastie. It's looking good.
      Quote Originally Posted by Boyz in da Park
      Proletariat, Bourgeoise - Everybody smellin' my potpourri...

    11. Member OptimusGlen's Avatar
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      09-26-2016 12:12 PM #260
      I ended up using the original pump. It all looked good with no wear marks and nothing protruding towards the cam gear rivets.

    12. Senior Member Air and water do mix's Avatar
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      09-26-2016 12:33 PM #261
      Quote Originally Posted by OptimusGlen View Post
      I ended up using the original pump. It all looked good with no wear marks and nothing protruding towards the cam gear rivets.
      As long as it's tight that should be fine.

      There's a spec for what tolerances there are between the gears and the body, but I sure don't remember it off the top of my head. You do have to curve your feeler gauges more than I like, but it works.

      Is your tinware painted yet?
      Quote Originally Posted by Boyz in da Park
      Proletariat, Bourgeoise - Everybody smellin' my potpourri...

    13. Member OptimusGlen's Avatar
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      09-26-2016 03:56 PM #262
      Not yet, I haven't even touched the tins. That's going to be a long messy job.

    14. Member GolfTango's Avatar
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      09-26-2016 05:19 PM #263
      Love these threads, such amazing work!

    15. Member OptimusGlen's Avatar
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      10-01-2016 12:45 PM #264
      Rocker and pushrod assemblies in, an carbs bolted on. I did make sure to mount the small tins under the cylinders first, and the retaining wire is in place.



      No valve adjustment yet.

    16. Member gsprobe02's Avatar
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      10-01-2016 01:37 PM #265
      This thing is coming along beautifully.

      You are going into far greater detail than I have the patience for myself these days. Keep up the great work.

    17. Senior Member Air and water do mix's Avatar
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      10-01-2016 06:02 PM #266
      That is looking great.

      If the tinware is really greasy you can have a machine shop tank it for you for a few bucks.
      Quote Originally Posted by Boyz in da Park
      Proletariat, Bourgeoise - Everybody smellin' my potpourri...

    18. Member OptimusGlen's Avatar
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      10-13-2016 10:53 AM #267
      New front brake rotors arrived, got them machined yesterday for 5 lug studs and then pressed the new bearing races in and installed them. The unthreaded guide portion of the stud protrudes up from the contact surface between the wheel and rotor, and that unthreaded diameter doesn't fit with clearance in the wheel holes. So now I need to replace the studs with a style that doesn't have the guide nose material.

      I rebuilt the master cylinder last night. Before you freak out, the bore was perfect so it was really just installing new ATE rubber seals.

      I removed the pedal cluster to rebuild it and discovered that someone had already swapped bronze bushings into it to replace the plastic. Everything moved freely and sprung the right direction, so I just cleaned it up a little. I probably would have swapped in the new parts I have, but the pin that needs to be pressed out was a real bugger. Worked on it for a bit and decided that it wasn't broken so why fix it.

      New oil cooler arrived, so I can install that and then finally start cleaning up all the tins... or I can put that off more and rebuild the brake calipers instead, haha.

      No pics of the project this time, but I was able to make it out to an Oktoberfest party hosted by 311RS. There was some SERIOUS eye candy there, and some owners with deep pockets.


      Yep, that's a 2.7RS, it's real, it was completely restored, and it's perfect. The 4.0RS was also real, the 991 GT3 was one of the 311RS cars that they've been developing, the 997 GT3 was most excellent, and that car way at the end, that's a 964 RS America, it's also real, and also mint.


      964 Carrera 4, the 311RS 930, the 311RS 996 GT3, and a 993 Carrera 4S

      And now for the 914 content, this little guy showed up and made me want to go home and get into the garage.

    19. Senior Member Air and water do mix's Avatar
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      10-13-2016 11:18 AM #268
      See, that's just another example as to why lug bolts are better.
      Quote Originally Posted by Boyz in da Park
      Proletariat, Bourgeoise - Everybody smellin' my potpourri...

    20. Member OptimusGlen's Avatar
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      10-13-2016 11:52 AM #269
      Haha, lug bolts are ok. but when the wheel/rotor are not hub-centric, it makes mounting a wheel just ridiculous. At least with studs I can place the wheel and then use my hands to get the nuts started. With bolts I need to balance the wheel on the hub using nothing but telekinesis and swearing.

    21. Senior Member .LSinLV.'s Avatar
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      10-13-2016 11:59 AM #270
      Quote Originally Posted by OptimusGlen View Post
      I rebuilt the master cylinder last night. Before you freak out, the bore was perfect so it was really just installing new ATE rubber seals.
      just curious as why you went to all that trouble, and could of just installed a 911 (19mm) master cylinder and gained much better pedal feel, and the volume to move up to 911 brakes (one day)???
      Larry
      Demokratikally Elekted Minister of Shekels and Cuddles Therapist of the Independent People's Republik of Offtopikstan
      Quote Originally Posted by atomicalex View Post
      The boobs. I am waiting on the boobs here.

    22. Senior Member Air and water do mix's Avatar
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      10-13-2016 12:01 PM #271
      Quote Originally Posted by OptimusGlen View Post
      Haha, lug bolts are ok. but when the wheel/rotor are not hub-centric, it makes mounting a wheel just ridiculous. At least with studs I can place the wheel and then use my hands to get the nuts started. With bolts I need to balance the wheel on the hub using nothing but telekinesis and swearing.
      I set the tire on my toe, put one hand at 12:00 and lift my toe for height adjustment and move my hand for left/right adjustment. The other hand is free to install the lug bolts. Once the first one is in, I rotate that bolt to 12:00 and start putting in other bolts. It sounds hard, but I find it quite easy. YMMV.

      Of course, if this happens when you're out on the town and are wearing nice shoes it'd be a bummer.


      Quote Originally Posted by .LSinLV. View Post
      just curious as why you went to all that trouble, and could of just installed a 911 (19mm) master cylinder and gained much better pedal feel, and the volume to move up to 911 brakes (one day)???
      I was kinda wondering that, too. The stocker is 17mm, so the 911 master definitely moves a lot more fluid and until the 911 brakes in installed you need less brake pedal travel. Sure, you'll need to increase pressure with your leg, but I find that a good tradeoff.
      Quote Originally Posted by Boyz in da Park
      Proletariat, Bourgeoise - Everybody smellin' my potpourri...

    23. Member OptimusGlen's Avatar
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      10-13-2016 12:10 PM #272
      Quote Originally Posted by .LSinLV. View Post
      just curious as why you went to all that trouble, and could of just installed a 911 (19mm) master cylinder and gained much better pedal feel, and the volume to move up to 911 brakes (one day)???
      The 19mm MC is oversized for the stock brakes, the pedal gets harder but doesn't make the car stop faster. So you're putting out more braking effort with your leg to get the same amount of braking effort of the calipers.

      If I want 911 brakes, or larger brakes, I will replace the MC then.

      Additionally, the 17mm Ate MC rebuild kit I had was cheap, under $30 shipped with all original packaging. New 19mm MC's are expensive, new 17mm MCs are even more expensive. And I refuse to use those crappy URO master cylinders.

    24. Senior Member .LSinLV.'s Avatar
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      10-13-2016 12:16 PM #273
      Quote Originally Posted by OptimusGlen View Post
      The 19mm MC is oversized for the stock brakes, the pedal gets harder but doesn't make the car stop faster. So you're putting out more braking effort with your leg to get the same amount of braking effort of the calipers.

      If I want 911 brakes, or larger brakes, I will replace the MC then.

      Additionally, the 17mm Ate MC rebuild kit I had was cheap, under $30 shipped with all original packaging. New 19mm MC's are expensive, new 17mm MCs are even more expensive. And I refuse to use those crappy URO master cylinders.
      I get it, but honestly everyone told me the same thing, and the pedal feel/control/modulation is MUCH better with the larger MC even with stock 914 brakes

      at least you got the rebuild kit cheap. and yeah, the non-oem parts are junk
      Larry
      Demokratikally Elekted Minister of Shekels and Cuddles Therapist of the Independent People's Republik of Offtopikstan
      Quote Originally Posted by atomicalex View Post
      The boobs. I am waiting on the boobs here.

    25. Senior Member Air and water do mix's Avatar
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      10-13-2016 12:22 PM #274
      Quote Originally Posted by OptimusGlen View Post
      The 19mm MC is oversized for the stock brakes, the pedal gets harder but doesn't make the car stop faster. So you're putting out more braking effort with your leg to get the same amount of braking effort of the calipers.

      If I want 911 brakes, or larger brakes, I will replace the MC then.

      Additionally, the 17mm Ate MC rebuild kit I had was cheap, under $30 shipped with all original packaging. New 19mm MC's are expensive, new 17mm MCs are even more expensive.
      Good reasons, but I'm more about modulation than effort, myself. I am surprised the 17mm unit is more money now, it used to be a LOT cheaper! (Of course, I'm talking a long, long time ago.)



      Quote Originally Posted by OptimusGlen View Post
      And I refuse to use those crappy URO master cylinders.
      Welcome to my world. I hate junk aftermarket parts and you have to be damned careful nowadays. Counterfeit stuff is everywhere.
      Quote Originally Posted by Boyz in da Park
      Proletariat, Bourgeoise - Everybody smellin' my potpourri...

    26. Member
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      10-13-2016 12:31 PM #275
      You should buy this for your garage http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/cto/5824375911.html

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